Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - Valparaiso, Chile

We are aboard the Seabourn Pride.   I begin writing this journal through a haze of Heidsieck & Co. Monopole/Blue Top/Champagne, Brut.  It was awaiting us in our stateroom on arrival, duly iced, ready to pour.    It’s good – I’m super tired – this segment of the journal should be really interesting!!!

Adolfo has gone off to find out what in the world has happened to our luggage.   We checked into the boarding terminal at 2:30 p.m.   It’s now 4:30, in our stateroom, no luggage.   Hmmmmmm.   Maybe it, too, is having a glass of Heidsieck!

We left San Francisco in the rain yesterday morning at 8:30 bound for Los Angeles.   Made our connecting flight to LanChile leaving Los Angeles at 12:30 p.m.   Los Angeles airport is quite a spread out thing.   It took us fifteen minutes by bus from the terminal way out to the very end the tarmac to get to the LanChile boarding area.   LanChile’s terminal is the last outpost before the beach!     Onto an airbus, business class, tons of room, food not half bad, service delightful, albeit mostly in Spanish!   Close to Italian, so that’s okay!

We flew from Los Angeles to Lima, Peru – forty-five minute layover and then on to Santiago, Chile.   We were to be met at the Santiago airport by a driver/guide arranged by our travel agent.  But lo and behold, just short of making our connection with him (we could see him holding a sign with our name on it the other side of the immigration counters) we were rerouted back to a counter that we’d missed.  Had to pay a $100 per person entry into Chile, fee titled “Reciprocity”!!!!   Hello?!?!  Seems that because the USA charges Chileans an entry fee (found out later that it’s built into their air fares) Chile has decided to do the same to USA citizens.   Should call it “Revenge-icity”.

Finally met our driver, Carlos, six feet tall, four feet wide, totally in love with himself.   Too tired to care.   Carlos took us into Santiago to the Torremayor Hotel where our travel agent had arranged for a day room.   Three hours sleep, a lovely and invigorating shower and we hooked back up with our driver for the trip to the port of Valparaiso.   All during the drive we were given minimal information about the surrounding countryside, but were given way too much information about Carlos!   He’s the best (self-proclaimed) chef in the city of Santiago, the best (self-proclaimed) guide in the city of Santiago . . . boring, boring, - I so needed to put my head back and just nod off! 

About two hours after our arrival aboard ship, here we are still awaiting our luggage!

All waiters, stewards/stewardesses and staff seem foreign to us.   There is always such a turnover with these wonderful young people from all over the world who seem to wait, hand and foot, on all passengers.   However, this time - it’s been over one and a half years since our last visit – there are few familiar faces.

Our first dinner aboard ship, we ate in the Veranda Café, informal dining on the top deck with great views.   We were joined at table by a lovely, slightly older, couple from Brussels, Belgium - Janine and Jacques.  Jacques was so happy to have steak, pomme frittes (Belgian style – twice fried) and béarnaise sauce.   They are both quite lovely, lots of fun, but we’re off to bed for an early night.

Journal Explanation:  On all sea days during this cruise, we played team trivia mid day.   These hours spent with our team “The Broncos” (because two of the men were from University of Santa Clara) brought us many laughs and exercised our otherwise sedentary brains.   So to share that and to perhaps make this journal a little more interesting, have decided to interject trivia questions on one day, and the answers on the next day.   Am also quoting some of the information we received in the ship’s bulletin and will include that in italicized print. 

TRIVIA:   What is the meaning of ombrophobia?

Our ship, the Seabourn Pride’s port of registry is the Bahamas.   Her officers are international but mostly Norwegian - the rest of the staff an interesting international olio.  Her gross tonnage is 10,000; length, 439 feet; width, 63 feet; cruising speed is 18 knots; the crew numbers one hundred fifty; the passenger capacity is 208.  Her bow is deeply raked and from afar she is beautiful and graceful.

Thursday, January 23 – At Sea in the Pacific Ocean

We awoke to lovely, sunny weather, but cold.   Everyone who’s chosen to take the sun on deck is bundled up with towels and blankets and not easily identifiable.     It’s a bit of a challenge walking the ship today.   We are sailing in swells thirteen to twenty feet.   It’s tricky getting from place to place, especially since our sea legs are rusty and not yet broken in.   Our stateroom is on the lowest deck, right at the water level, amid ship.   It’s our favorite placement on the ship, especially in rough seas.   We get the least knocking about and can see the beautiful and dramatic sea up close.

Had a very lazy day, napped a couple of times.    Tonight is a formal night.   Early in the cruise formal nights are always fun, ‘cause everyone’s clothing fits with a bit of room to spare.   It will be later on when we’ve eaten all of this wonderful food that the clothes will be a bit uncomfortable.  Adolfo’s cummerbund will become an encumbering bund!

Going into the Captain’s welcoming cocktail reception before dinner, we began visiting with another couple in the short line.   Clelia (pronounced Clay-lea) and her husband Roberto Quinonez are from El Salvador.  Married fifty-two years and barely looking as though they’re past their mid fifties.   They are quite delightful.   We were joined at cocktails by a couple from Oregon, retired to Santa Fe, Ray and Rene.   They are quieter than the rest of us, but nice.   Probably couldn’t get a word in edgewise!   They’ve lived in Santa Fe for quite some time.  When we asked them about some of the local sights such as Bandelier National Park, Acoma, the Turquoise Trail, sights which we find inexpressibly beautiful, they responded that they’ve never been there.   Rene says she can’t get her husband out of the house!  He loves his computer!

Roberto Quinonez was Ambassador to the United States for El Salvador during the Carter administration.  We mentioned our friends Michelle and the erstwhile Carlos.   They didn’t know the Gonzalez family, but Clelia did say that where Michelle and Carlos used to live in the area of San Salvador called “Colonia San Francisco”, her father had owned all of that property and had developed it.   Clelia attended Dominican Convent School when it was located in the Mother House in San Rafael.   And then years later, both of their daughters attended San Domenico, graduating in the l970’s.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Ombrophobia – Fear of rain.

Our captain is Leif H. Rodahl, originally from a small coastal town in Norway.   Captain Rodahl first began to dream of a life at sea as a small child.   He achieved his Master’s License by the age of 30 and worked his way up as a Chief Officer on cargo ships, then supervised the construction of ships in Japan before assuming command of the M/S Hoegh Merit in 1978.   He’s been with Cunard since 1990.  After serving aboard the Vistafjord, Sagafjord and Coronia, in 1999 he was transferred to the Seabourn Pride, the Norwegian part of Cunard Line.   Regarding the transfer, Captain says, “I am very content”.

Friday, January 24 – At Sea in the Pacific Ocean

Note:    For our children, Christina, Stephen and Duane, who helped Papa work the new digital camera and instructed on how to import photos into my laptop, we’ve been successful!   Just this morning we worked with the few pictures we’ve taken so far – it’s  a piece of cake.   Once into the computer, we view and delete those not up to snuff and then Adolfo deletes all in the camera so that we can start afresh.  Thank you, all!

This morning woke to a very gray, very wet day.   Good sized swells again this date, ship moving very slowly in order to make it easier for the passengers to get around.   Crew having necessary fire and boat drills.   Had a pedicure early this morning – manicure later in the day.   Plan to have another lazy day, perhaps a really long nap this afternoon.

Thinking about everyone at home, hoping and praying that all is well.   More later . . .

TRIVIA:   What is a spermologist?

A ship’s bell is looked upon with almost reverential awe and considered so precious that it is preserved even after the ship has been broken up.  This suggests that the bell once had a purpose other than merely sounding the hour and calling sailors out of their bunks to duty.

This assumption is reinforced by the fact that, after all, the bell could not be heard in the bowels of a ship nor could it be imagined that sailors would wake up each time the bell was sounded assiduously to count the number of its strokes, to ascertain whether their turn had come to go on watch.   Actually, they are called on deck by word of mouth or – a whistle.

Originally the bell was used to repel the nefarious forces of the ocean that followed ships, according to popular belief, waiting for an opportunity to harm or destroy them.  But they could not endure a loud, clanging noise.  Hearing it they would scatter far and wide.

Horsebells and those that once were attached to the hem of the High Priest’s cloak initially served the same purpose – to scare away demons.

Saturday, January 25 - Puerto Montt, Chile

Today we were bused up to Lake Esmeralda, or All Saints Lake, in the Parque Nacional Alerce Adino.   This is the port’s nearest playground and it’s loaded with lovely mountain scenery and glaciers.   To say it rains a lot would be the understatement of the century, so we feel blessed to have had this glorious weather today.  Our guide today mentioned that it’s not unusual for them to have rain two months or more, continuously.   As a result of these long wet periods, the depression rate among locals inhabitants is very high.  

Upon arrival at Lake Esmerelda, we cruised the rich green lake while the mists and clouds played hide and seek with us as to whether they would reveal the extraordinary snow-capped Volcan Osarno.   Finally we saw most of the glaciated top.   The weather was beautiful, crisp at times, but eventually lots of sun. Today there are no bad photos.  Deleted only two as we played with our digital camera and those only because we had too many of the same subject!  

After our cruise on the lake we bused down to the dramatic falls of Saltos Petrohue  and then on to another lake, Lago Llanquihue, where we absorbed  a sweeping panorama of the snow capped Andes, including an almost totally revealed Osarno Volcan, also Calbuco Volcan and a smaller but no less dramatic snow-capped peak.   What a place!   Didn’t want to leave.

In a very clean restaurant on the shore of Lago Llanquihue we all enjoyed a beautiful lunch of fresh salmon and started off the meal with a toast of the local drink, Pisco Sour.   Pisco liquer is really the Chilean response to Italian Grappa.   It’s also made from a distillate of the grape.  To make a Pisco Sour, the Pisco liquor is blended with fresh lime, sugar and egg white.   Quite good, much too easy to get down!

Roads in and around Puerto Montt are quite bumpy, perhaps because of the constant wear and tear by all of the rain.   As a result, the bumpy ride put me to sleep most of the travel time.   Am now ready to begin another evening of food and drink.    This could get to be a habit as long as my clothing fits!

Enjoyed a dinner tonight with Roberto and Clelia from El Salvador out on the back veranda deck.   The evening was quite nice until the sun set rather prettily.  Then it turned really cold.   In we came back to our stateroom where we viewed the day’s photos by slide show with my new laptop.   It’s really a miracle that we can take these pictures each day, download them into the camera, play with the ones we want to keep, adjusting light, clarity, removing red-eye and sometimes even deleting the ones we think are not up to par.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Spermologist - Collector of trivia.

Puerto Montt is the capital of Llanquihue (pronounced “yahn-kee-weh”) Province and of Los Lagos, or the Lake Region in the south central region of Chile.   A beautiful natural harbor is very useful for sea trade in a country whose long coastline and difficult interior communications make sea transport an important feature of the internal economy.   The Pan American Highway and main north-south railroad terminate in the city, as do sea routes through the archipelagoes southward to Punta Arenas.   Its setting amid forested hills, fjords, lakes and snowcapped Andes have made it a popular resort, despite earthquakes.  In 1960 this region suffered a 9.5 earthquake that caused a huge tsunami not only in this area but as far away as Japan.   The people never forgot the devastation, so most later residences have been built on the upper levels of the city.

Sunday, January 26, 2003 – Super Bowl Sunday - Castro, Chiloe Island, Chile

Chiloeweb.com  (for further information about this area, check this website)

Tendered ashore from an anchored Seabourn Pride.   Water was very calm, unlike the time several years ago when we tried to tender ashore to the Isle of Guernsey.   No bumps and bruises this time!

Onto buses we all trooped, half ran through teeming rain, trying to hang our coats to dry once on the bus.   Windows inside all steamy, outside all wet – oh well, perhaps this is another opportunity for a nap.

Went to the church of San Francisco.   A beautiful, totally wooden, church artfully handcrafted inside of alerca wood, which is indigenous to this area.   This is a particular hard wood, which repels water.   It’s also used for the pilings that support the fishing houses along the shore – “palafitos”.  These tiny homes were built so that the fishermen could end their day out on the water, moor their boats, climb the stairs and into bed.   Palafitos are smallish, square buildings, built one right next to the other, mostly one story.   Each one has used the alerca wood in the form of shingles lining the fronts of the houses.   Every house has a different design of siding shingle, some very plain, others more intricately cut, many resembling the varied shapes of Spanish or Mexican tiles which are used on floors around the world.

On to the town of Dalcahue, we rode, where we visited a neglected, very poor church and then walked on to the local market.   Tons of fresh vegetables, beautifully arranged, their colors shining hopefully through the grey, dingy, wet day.   Then we went on to a modern art museum.   Interesting if you like modern art – little took my fancy – none took Adolfo’s.   Also were entertained by local musicians and dancers, and then watched a fashion show, modeled by local young beauties.   The clothing was fashioned out of yarn the designer manufactures from her own sheep, then dyes with local natural plants and finally creates these beautifully woven creations, mostly perfect for the young nubile body.   Colors were so rich, but upon closer examination, particularly touch, found them to be rather scratchy.

Find that I cannot use my own computer aboard ship so will shortly try to check email and send a note home on the ship’s computer.   Seems that it’s still too costly to get a wireless hookup on the ship, although it’s my understanding that many of the newer ships have such setup.  Actually believe that the current way of doing things aboard ship is very profitable for Seabourn.   The cost is $1.00 per minute once on line!

TRIVIA:   Name the thirteen provinces and territories of Canada.

The country of Chile is bounded on the north by Peru, on the east by Bolivia and Argentina, and on the south and west by the Pacific Ocean.  It’s about 2650 miles long and it average width is less than 110 miles.  Archipelagoes extend along the southern Chilean coast from Chiloe Island to Cape Horn, the southernmost point of the South American continent.  Among these are the Chonos Archipelago, Wellington Island and the western portion of Tierra del Fuego.  Other islands belonging to Chile include the Juan Fernandez Islands, Easter Island and Sala y Gomez, all of which lie in the Pacific Ocean.   The country has a total area of 292,258 square miles.  Chile also claims a section of Antarctica.   The dominant physical feature of Chile are Andes Mountains which extend the entire length of the country from the Bolivian Plateau tin the north to Tierra del Fuego in the South.  The country’s highest peak is Ojos del Salada (22615 feet).   Chile lies in a zone of geologic instability and is subject to earthquakes and volcanic activity.  The capital and largest city is Santiago.

Monday, January 27, 2003 - Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

Visited Coyhaique and the Simpson Valley by bus.  Puerto Chacabuco provides port entry to the region’s capital, Couyhaique, a city of approximately 40,000 inhabitants that has long outgrown its pioneer origins.   The day began with a one-hour drive through gloriously rugged landscape to the Regional Museum of Natural Resources Rio Simpson, where a brief walk down to the river affords a dramatic view of this most scenic combination of river, canyon and valley.  Continued on eastward from the coast across the Andes Mountains to an altitude of 1476 feet.   The road follows the Simpson River through a narrow mountainous valley that is home to an abundance of bird species.   After visiting the local handcraft booths at the outdoor market, we headed back to the ship, with a stop at Cascada de la Virgen (virgin waterfall) and Velo de Novia (bridal veil falls).  Rio Simpson is a favorite spot for fly fishermen.  (At some point in the trip I had an opportunity to go fly-fishing, but the weather was so awful I opted for a bus tour instead.)  Someday I really want to learn how to fly fish.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Canadian provinces and territories:  Alberta, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, Saskatchewan, Ontario, British Columbia, Nova Scotia, Manitoba, Quebec, New Brunswick, Yukon and Nunavut.

Tuesday, January 28, 2003 – Cruising the Chilean Fjords

This morning, although skies remain grey and heavy looking, there is no rain yet.  Today has been a feast for the eyes - glacier after glacier, beautiful countryside much like Norway, and finally in the evening (it’s still daylight very late down here) an unscheduled stop before the breathtaking example of a glacier.   Known as Pio XI or Bruegger, this glacier is the largest in Patagonia measuring one thousand square mile.  That makes it six times larger than Buenos Aires!

While we were eating dinner the ship’s engines stopped abruptly, the lights went out, and the captain announced that we’d suffered a ruptured hose in the engine room.   We would be anchoring in place, while the hose was replaced.    The breakdown was fortuitous because we’d just approached Pope Pius XI Glacier.   Small bergs, or the detritus from the calving glacier floated all around the ship. We were anchored less than a mile off the glacier.   Weather was fairly clear at that time so we could go out on deck (and freeze!) and take photos, while the pianist in the forward lounge played music from the Titanic movie. Couldn’t imagine having to jump overboard in waters such as this. Thank God, the pianist didn’t go so far as to play “Nearer My God to Thee”.  Pius XI Glacier is the only growing glacier in Patagonia, possibly due to volcanic activity in the formation area.   It has been growing steadily for almost seventy years.

The last two days we’ve had sodden, leaky skies, fairly low ceiling clouds and mist most of the time, although it often lifted and we could see the first row of mountains on either side of the canals.   Yesterday we cruised back and forth in a canal catching glimpses of the many fingers of a huge glacier hidden behind the mountains.   It is our understanding that the huge core of the glacier rests in a valley beyond, sending out icy tentacles over the surrounding mountains that reach down to the shore. Colors up close on the glaciers are very dramatic.  Even though the day is grey with overcast, the glacier has this wonderful aquamarine color throughout.   In some of our photos it is the only color that comes through against the varying shades of grey.

Tonight was formal dress so right after dinner passengers headed for the top deck with very practical wrappings against the cold, worn right over formalwear.   There were some wonderful outfits, the combinations making funny photos.

TRIVIA:  What are Iraq’s four main trading partners?

A glacier is any large mass of perennial ice that originates on land by the recrystallization of snow or other forms of solid precipitation and that shows evidence of past or present flow.   A glacier occupying an extensive tract of relatively level land and exhibiting flow from the center outward is commonly called an ice sheet.  Exact limits for the terms large, perennial, and flow cannot be set.  Except in size, a small snow patch that persists for more than one season is hydrologically indistinguishable from a true glacier.  One international group has recommended that all persisting snow and ice masses larger than one square kilometer (about 0.04 square mile) be counted as glaciers.

Types of glaciers are classifiable in three main groups:  (1) glaciers that extend in continuous sheets, moving outward in all directions are called ice sheets if they are the size of Antarctica or Greenland and ice caps if they are smaller; (2) glaciers confined within a path that directs the ice movement are called mountain glaciers; and (3) glaciers that spread out on level ground or on the ocean at the foot of glaciated regions are called piedmont glaciers or ice shelves.   Glaciers in the third group are not independent and are treated here in terms of their sources:  ice shelves with ice sheets, piedmont glaciers with mountain glaciers.   A complex of mountain glaciers burying much of a mountain range is called an ice field.

Tuesday, January 29, 2003 - Cruising the Chilean Fjords

Another day of beautiful shores on either side.  Glaciers and fjords abound.  It’s wonderful!

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Iraq’s four main trading partners are Germany, France, Russia and China.

Wednesday, January 30, 2003 – Puerto Natales, Chile

After two days at sea and sailing in and out of the fjords and canals of Patagonia we have arrived at Puerto Natales.   Looking forward to a long bus trip today.  Today we’re touring to Torres del Paine National Park, declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1978.  Have been told that Torres del Paine translates out as Towers of Blue.

Adolfo has informed that he’s received information that we will be given the opportunity when we get to Buenos Aires to take an overland trip to Iguazu Falls.   This means a small airplane and an overnight stay at a hotel in Iguazu.   While I’d love to see this spectacular falls, am reticent to make this trip because just anticipating the flight in a local small plane is enough to spoil the entire vacation for me.   Adolfo may go by himself.   He’s checking out the specifics right now.

The port of Puerto Natales seems very quiet from the port side of the ship where I’m sitting in our stateroom.   In the distance are beautiful snow capped mountains.   Nearby there are four very small buildings that appear to be residences.   Am not certain how far we are from shore on the other side.  We are anchored out in the bay and will be tendered ashore at 8:15 a.m.

Torres del Paine National Park is indeed a wonder.   The weather gods smiled on us this day because before the day was over, we saw the very tops of the towering craggy mountains.  Saw lots of guanaco (smaller than llama), rhea (the dumbest bird alive, according to our guide), wild hares, birds, black necked swans, regular white swans, land locked salt lakes and fresh water glacial lakes with that curious milky light aqua color.   I was reminded of Mt. Ritter and Mt. Banner in the Sierra and the drama there.   This area is many times more dramatic.  Perhaps because the mountains rise directly out of a huge wind swept, fairly barren plain.    Glaciers abound on all the mountains.   The plains in this area are rather desolate, but still picturesque - lots of dead snags of trees, then a beautiful green sward with cattle grazing. This scene is repeated over and over again with more arid than lush scenery.   One sees vast stretches of country, once glacially swept - larger than the mind can comprehend.   The wind is horrible in some areas.  It feels strong enough to pick you right up off the ground.

We ate lunch at Hosteria Pehoe situate on a glacial lake.   The day was beautiful, the colors so strong – blue skies, glacial green lakes, black towering mountains topped with blinding white snow and glaciers and the little hosteria with it’s bright red roof at the end of a long foot bridge.   Could have been in Switzerland.

On the way back to the ship after lunch we turned off the main road and stopped at a little local store.   In the room at the side that appeared to be a gathering place for locals, we were greeted by staff from our ship who plied us with caviar and champagne, lest we die from hunger until our next meal!

Caviar - Ah yes, Caviar!   Seabourn is noted for supplying caviar round the clock, on demand. There are those aboard who can’t get enough.   They eat it like ice cream, but why?Is it because it’s expensive and they want their cruise money’s worth?  Do they really like that yucky fishy taste?   I like it for a little garnish, but to eat like ice cream shoveling it in with a spoon?   Can’t help remembering Tom Hanks in the movie “Big” when he has his first taste of the black stuff.   First the stricken look in his eyes, then the open mouth, then the gagging, then the spitting it out on the floor, then the napkin stuffed into his mouth swabbing the remnant fish eggs off his tongue.  Have felt like that many times and have just decided that I don’t need to look cool and eat it like everyone else.  I can dislike the stuff and still hold my head up!  Besides, have been told that it’s terribly fattening.   It may well be the one fattening food I do not like!

At the end of the bus ride we gathered at the port to board the tenders back to the ship but the port was suddenly closed by the harbormaster because of the wind and very choppy sea. There out in the bay sat our ship beautifully anchored, but the ground swells were so strong that it was impossible to safely board the tenders and then again board the ship from the tenders.   We sat on our bus for one hour, out of the wind, while we waited for the weather to change and it finally did.   Last year, this same tour was stuck at the port for so long they all booked into the local hotel and didn’t board the ship until the next morning.   Glad we didn’t have to do that.   It is said that in Patagonia one might see all four seasons in one day!   I believe it!

We made it back to the ship by 6:30 p.m. and were due to meet people for drinks and dinner at 7:00.   A bit late, but so were the other couple.   We are enjoying our time with the Quinonez’ from El Salvador.   They are lots of fun and seem such good people.

Tomorrow is another day at sea, really my favorite days.   I love the luxury of reading and napping at will, meeting new people, staring out at the passing sea, watching sea birds lazily soaring aft of the ship, and whatever scenery is the gift of the day.

Llama - the common name for a long-eared South American ruminant that can be domesticated and is descended from the guanaco.   The llama stands 3 to 4.3 feet high at the shoulder and is usually white, blotched with black and brown.   Sometimes it is pure white or pure black.  The female llama gives birth to one or rarely two offspring once every two years.  Male llamas have been used as beasts of burden in the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes for more than 4000 years.  The surefooted animals can carry as much as 200 pounds for twelve hours a day, but they are not ridden.   When weary or overloaded, llamas lie down and refuse to move, often spitting at their driver.  The females are raised for their flesh which tastes somewhat like mutton, and for their milk, which is used extensively in western South America.  The meat of the males is tough and rarely eaten.   The long, coarse wool of both sexes is used in the weaving of textiles and the skins are tanned for leather.  Llama tallow is used for making candles.  The long hair is braided and used for rope and the dried excrement is used as fuel.

Thursday, January 31, 2003  - Cruising the Strait of Magellan

The seas have been remarkably calm given the sailing stories we’ve heard from those who’ve been here before us.  A lazy day doing laundry, losing money in the casino, taking a nap, reading, downloading photos and playing with the Iphoto application on my new MAC laptop.   It’s been another lovely and renewing day spoiled only by one incident.

We were invited to the table of the Staff Captain for dinner.   Passengers are usually invited to senior staff tables every few nights.  This is done in order to mix up the guests and give all passengers the opportunity to get to know each other.   It’s quite lovely and we’ve always enjoyed the chance to dine with staff of the ship and eight new dinner companions.  Just before dinner was to begin our host, the Staff Captain, was called to the bridge.  Head of security on the ship, Cameron, was replaced as our table host.   He’s a Scotsman, cute, young and funny and told us as much as he could about the security of the ship and passengers, without compromising the ship’s security.   It was fascinating dinner conversation – to a point.

Tonight, one of the usually wonderful dining experiences was to be a negative memorable.  There were eleven people at our table.  A lovely young woman from NYC, traveling alone, sat on my left.    On my right sat a rather officious man from horse country in Kentucky or Virginia.  He and his wife raise Connemarra horses and breed them with Arabian stock for sport horses – the type that often appears in the Olympics.   They run about nineteen horses at a time.   At one point in the conversation, the table discussion turned to dogs, and in particular, the breed of pit bulls.   I mentioned to the man at my right that I had difficulty with large dogs, particularly those who have the reputation of pit bulls.    He announced rather loudly that I was silly, that dogs were like women – if you treat them well, they’ll be sweet - to which I responded laughingly, “Be careful!”   One would have thought I’d lit a firecracker beneath him.   He tore into me saying that he was a sensitive man, was insulted that I’d intimate differently, that I should watch myself more closely, and he’d never been accused of making a sexist remark in his life!   The whole table conversation stopped on the spot.   His wife from across the table sweetly crooned “Now, dear” several times, but he’d have none of it.    When I managed to get a word in edgewise, I said that my remark had been a light one, not at all meant to inflame and he started all over again!  I gave up and neither spoke to him nor looked at him the rest of the evening.   The woman to my right had eyes the size of saucers.   She told me that she admired the fact that I continued to sit there and hadn’t dumped his plate in his lap and left the table.  The contents of his plate in his lap would have been fun, or a spoon up his nose, or a soup bowl over his head – the possibilities are endless.   These mental images entertained me throughout the rest of the meal.  In the moment it would have been fun!  However, being a guest at an officer’s table, I didn’t feel I had the privilege of activating those mental images. 

After dinner his wife apologized to me and told me that he really was a “good soul”.   Told her not to worry about it, that her apology was unnecessary and we parted company.  The story has gotten all over the ship.   Am embarrassed to have been a part of it.   My new friend Clelia Quinonez has asked me to point him out to her so that she can be certain to steer clear of him.  After hearing the story she gave me a one liner that would have been hers in the same situation:  (After the comparison of dogs to woman) -  “And what was your mother?”  HAH!

One other funny part of the evening was that when he excused himself from the table mid meal, he announced to the three women seated to his left and right that he belonged to that club known as the “Teeny Weeny Bladder Club”, and had to be excused often!   We all felt this was more than we needed to know!  Think he should have belonged to the “Teeny Weeny Brain Club”!

Well now, enough of that!

TRIVIA:  Name the five colors of the Olympic rings?

From Charles Darwin’s “The Voyage of the Beagle”:  “Strait of Magellan, June 1834 . . .

“We anchored in the fine bay of Port Famine (just south of Punta Arenas in Chile).  It was now the beginning of winter, and I never saw a more cheerless prospect; the dusky woods piebald with snow, could only indistinctly be seen through a drizzling hazy atmosphere.  We were, however, lucky in getting two fine days.  On one of these Mount Sarmiento, a distant mountain 6,800 feet high, presented a very noble spectacle.  I was frequently surprised in the scenery of Tierra del Fuego, at the little apparent elevation of mountains really lofty.  I suspect it is owing to a cause which would not at first be imagined, namely that the whole mass, from the summit to the water’s edge, is generally in full view.  I remember having seen a mountain, first from the Beagle channel, where the whole sweep from the summit to the base was full in view, and then from Ponsonby Sound across several successive ridge; and it was curious to observe in the latter case, as each fresh step afforded means of judging of the distance, how the mountain appeared to rise in height.

“The Fuegians twice came and plagued us.  As they were many instruments, clothes, and men on shore, it was thought necessary to frighten them away.  The first time a few great guns were fired, when they were far distant.  It was most ludicrous to watch through a glass the Indians, as often as the shot struck the water, take up stones, and as a bold defiance, throw them towards the ship, though about a mile and a half distant!  A boat was then sent with orders to fire a few musket-shots wide of them.   The Fuegians hid themselves behind the trees; and for every discharge of the musket they fired their arrows:  all, however, fell short of the boat and the officer as he pointed at them laughed.  This made the Fuegians frantic with passion, and they shook their mantles in vain rage.  At last seeing the balls cut and strike the trees, they ran away; and we were left in peace and quietness.”

Saturday, February 1, 2003 – Punta Arenas, Chile

Today we saw the penguins, Magallan variety – named after Magellan.   This is a private reserve, owned and operated by a citizen of Punta Arenas.   There are about forty thousand penguins living here.   They mate for life.  After migration during the winter, they return here each year to lay eggs and raise their young.  The young ones are covered with a downy-feathered coat and are deemed adult when it’s gone and a sleek adult coat has taken its place.  The penguins burrow in the earth like rabbits and make funny honking noises like geese.    Weather was oh, so cold, wind howling off the water.   Felt like we were in the Antarctic – well we were awfully close!   Our pictures of this area are really charming – can’t wait to share them with family.

When I think of penguins, I always think of ice and snow but there’s none here, at least not at this time of year.   It’s all sand, rock, wind swept grasses and gentle surf.   The penguins walk on land like very old arthritic people but when they hit the water, it’s instantaneous youth.   They dive under the ripples near the shore, chirp and play just like carefree children.

After we got back to the ship I spotted an internet store at the end of the pier.  Although the service was slow, managed to clean up my email account and send a small message home.   My new laptop is geared to work in a wireless mode.   The problem is that nobody in this hinterland knows about the wireless process, or perhaps it is just not available.   Oh well, maybe some day . . . I can only dream that in future there will be wireless connections in each stateroom so that when we bring our laptops we can send emails daily.

I’m having lots of fun in the casino, especially in the afternoons that we are cruising.   There is a $3 table minimum in the afternoon (as opposed to a $5 minimum at night) and the regulars there each day are the nicest, funniest people. When introduced to Joseph and Mary (I’m not kidding!) Dragoni from New York City, I started to say something - then decided not – at which time Joseph looked at me and said “We left the baby in Bethlehem!”They are so sweet and so funny.   Joseph has a song on his lips for each few words at the ending sentence of someone’s conversation.   Then there’s Jay, a lovely woman in her eighties, who speaks just like Lauren Bacall and has the most beautiful jewelry I’ve ever seen. There’s lots of that on this cruise.   Hard to keep my eyes from popping open!   Then there’s a woman from Florida who has the largest travel company in the US specializing in dive vacations - an interesting group.   All casino customers are funny, each giving the dealers a terribly hard time, albeit a good-natured one!  

The three people who make up the casino staff are from Estonia, Bulgaria and Romania.   The young Romanian man insists on addressing all of the women as “ma-am” to which we respond that it’s not allowable ‘cause it’s a four-letter word and meant for our grandmothers. He’s adorable – name of Rumen.   Then there’s Mirella who Joseph addresses as Mirabella Caramella, and Terje, (pronounced Teri-eh).  They’ve made the parting of our gambling funds quite a lot of fun.  

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Olympic Rings colors - Yellow, Black, Blue, Green, Red.

Ferdinand Magellan had learnt from a variety of sources that the South American continent was probably not joined to the conjectured Great Southern Continent - that it was likely the treasures of the Far East might be secured by sailing westward around the tip of South America.

After a ceremonial departure from Seville on August 10, 1519, Magellan sailed from the coastal port of Sanlucar de Barrameda on September 20 with five ships and some 250 men.  Following the coast of Africa to Sierre Leone, they crossed the Atlantic and reached South America, exploring the Brazilian coast and in February 1520 reaching the River Plate estuary (which because of its size he mistook for the southern end of the continent).  Here he sighted a mountain and shouted “Monte video” (I see a mountain”) so giving the name to the city, founded two centuries later, which became the capital of Uruguay.  On March 31, as the southern winter was beginning his fleet put into what is now Port San Julian, on the southern coast of Patagonia, where it remained for nearly six months.  During that period the crew came to resent their Portuguese captain and a mutiny occurred, forcing Magellan to execute the ringleader.  One of his ships was wrecked surveying the coast of Patagonia.   On October 21, 1520, Magellan sailed into the passage to the Pacific Ocean that is now named after him, the Strait of Magellan.  It took thirty-eight days to navigate the treacherous strait, and the crew of the San Antonio deserted and returned to Spain.  Fires were seen along the shores to the south causing Magellan to name this land Tierra del Fuego (land of fire).  After a journey of 330 miles, on November 28, 1520, his three ships sailed into the ocean, while Magellan named “Pacific” (meaning “peaceful”) because of its calmness.   They sailed northward along the west coast of South America and then set out westward across the Pacific to continued exploration and finally being the first European to view the Philippines.

Sunday, February 2, 2003 – Cruising Beagle Canal toward Cape Horn.

An exceptional weather day as the sun finally shone in a beautiful blue sky made more interesting by the huge white clouds.   Glacier after glacier appeared on both shores - titled “Italian”, “French” and “English”.   This is extraordinary scenery.   We are either up on deck or glued to the window in our stateroom - so much beauty in one place.   Hardly anyone lives here.  We never see a house or a road.

There has been a lottery on the ship for anyone who wants to go ashore at Cape Horn, weather permitting.   Fifteen lucky people will board motorized zodiacs and travel ashore, climb some ninety steps and be able to say that they’ve done it!  

When we arrived at Cape Horn the sea was like a millpond, so calm that the rocks of Cape Horn were clearly reflected in the water below it.   Champagne and caviar were served out on deck as we watched the progress of the zodiac with our fellow passengers to Cape Horn where all of our passports were to be stamped.  The weather outside was crisp but with a couple of pashmina stoles artfully wound around the shoulders and enough champagne, it was easily tolerated.   Some two and a half hours later, with all passengers back on board, and while we were already at dinner table, we started cruising back toward Ushuaia (which we’d passed earlier in the day).   We will stop there tomorrow morning for walking about and a catamaran cruise in the afternoon before departure at 4:30 p.m.

We found out later that there was a huge storm front approaching Cape Horn so we skedaddled out of there as soon all were board from their jaunt ashore.   It was so calm most of us don’t feel we’ve been around the horn!

TRIVIA:   Name the nine planets in the solar system?

Cape Horn marks the southernmost point of South America and extends into Drake Passage, the Antarctic strait connecting the South Atlantic and South Pacific oceans.  The rocky terrain of the cape rises to a height of 1391 feet.  Storms, strong currents and icebergs make passage around the cape extremely hazardous.   During the time of sailing ships, hundreds of vessels were wrecked while “rounding the horn”.  In 1594, Sir Richard Hawkins rounded Cape Horn, plundered the Spanish port of Valparaiso, but was defeated in Peru’s San Mateo Bay and taken prisoner.  He was sent back to Spain in 1597 and not ransomed until 1602.   The Dutch East India Company mariner and navigator Willem Cornelis Schouten, 49, sailed around the cape in 1616, and named it for his birthplace, Hoorn, Netherlands. 

Monday, February 3, 2003 - Ushuaia, Argentina

The weather’s not nearly as cooperative as yesterday - very grey and a bit misty.   Have decided to skip this afternoon’s catamaran cruise.   Adolfo will go and take pictures.   I’ll finish catching up my journal and probably take a good nap, or watch a movie.   Am getting “socialled” out.   Need some quiet time to myself.    Must find an opportunity to speak with the chef for Adolfo’s birthday dinner tomorrow evening.    Have invited three other couples to join us.

Adolfo returned with a camera full of pictures  - more penguins, petrels and sea lions.  As we edited the photos he didn’t want to throw anything out.   We’re going to have enough pictures for fourteen albums!   YIKES!

We’ve arranged a quiet dinner tonight with Jacques and Janine - very good steak in the Veranda Café, the less formal dining area on the ship.  Jacques almost always eats the same thing – steak, pomme frittes and béarnaise sauce.  When Jacques’ plate arrives, he beams at it and smiles from ear to ear.   This must be his “soul” food!   It always makes him so very happy!

Tonight the entertainment crew held Liars’ Club gathering.   Very interesting words are presented to teams made up of the passengers.   Four people from the ship give explanations, and teams guess who’s correct.   Some of tonight’s words: “tittup”, “hawsehole”, “lickerish” – that’s all I can recall.  And I’ll be darned if I can remember what any of them mean.

The “liars” were assistant cruise director, Sean O’Shea, head of ship’s security, Cameron, lecturer, Professor Roy Willis, and the Captain of the ship.    This is a natural role for the captain.   He loves to talk and talk and talk.    While the first three liars each held one piece of paper, the captain had a clipboard.   He spoke more each round than the other three put together!   We watched as the passengers’ eyes glazed over.   I decided half way through the third round that if the ship were to get into trouble and be sinking, the captain shouldn’t be in charge of radioing an SOS because he’d never get to the really important information it in time!

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Planets:  Saturn, Jupiter, Venus, Uranus, Mars, Mercury, Pluto, Neptune and Earth

Penguins – the name originally was applied to the now extinct great auk of the North Atlantic, a large flightless, black and white bird with an upright stance.   Similar flightless birds were discovered subsequently in the southern hemisphere and they were also called penguins, a name that is now restricted exclusively to these birds.

Most penguins have a white breast and a black back and head.  Many species exhibit red, orange, or yellow patches on the head and neck.   Because their short legs are placed far back on their bodies, penguins assume an upright posture.

Penguins are grouped into eighteen species and six genera, most of which are found in Antarctica and on sub-antarctic islands.  Other are native to the coasts of Australia, South Africa, and south American and to the Galapagos Islands.

Although descended from flying ancestors, penguins have become highly specialized vertebrates.  Penguins do not have specific feather tracts as do most birds, but are covered almost uniformly with small, scale-like feathers.  Where most birds shed their feathers and grow new ones during a relatively long period of the year, penguins molt all of their feathers and, in some species, even shed the shields from the beak within a short space of time.   A molting penguin has a swollen, disheveled appearance; it loses its feathers in huge patches as new feathers appear.   During the molting period, which may last several weeks, the penguin does not enter the water to feet.

Penguins are gregarious birds and are found in flocks even at sea.  On land the colonies often number in the hundreds of thousands.  Although the birds have suffered greatly at the hands of humans who have slaughtered great numbers for their blubber and more recently, for their skins, the inaccessibility of the Antarctic region has helped preserve the group.  Natural enemies of the penguin include leopard seals, killer whales, and in the case of young chicks and eggs, skuas.

Tuesday, February 4, 2003 – Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

The sky is half sunny and half cloudy.   This may be the first time during the cruise where we cannot see any land mass.   It’s nice to be out in the sea - a very calm sea today.    We’ve been very lucky on this trip with fairly calm waters at the southern tip of South America.   From here on in, the days should be getting warmer.   Am ready for warmer climates as we’ve really been bundled up each day against the cold, rain and wind.   All of my summer clothing is as yet unworn.

Something’s going amiss with the sewage treatment on the ship.   The stairwells reek of methane gas – it’s ghastly!    There’s nowhere you can get away from it, except for outside and it’s not warm enough yet unless I gather three blankets around me!   May do that!

Today is Adolfo’s 71st birthday.   Yesterday he mentioned that it was his birthday coming up, shouldn’t I do something?!?   Told him that it was already arranged.   Such a silly man – have I ever forgotten his birthday?

Email this morning is much easier on the ship.   Must be getting to a point where reaching the satellite is easier.   Got my email sorted out and answered quite a few.    Always feel better when I hear from home.   Christina wrote that all is well and that they are going up to our house in Marin to cook risotto for Nona and Papa on Wednesday.   That’s so nice of her.

TRIVIA:   Name all the signs of the Zodiac?

Flora of Argentina.  The indigenous vegetation of Argentina varies greatly with the different climate and topographical regions of the country.   The warm and moist northeastern area supports tropical plants, including such trees as the palm, rosewood, lignum vitae, jacaranda and red quebracho (a source of tannin).  Grasses are the principal variety of indigenous vegetation in the Pampas.  Trees, excluding such imported drought-resistant varieties as the eucalyptus, sycamore and acacia, are practically nonexistent in this region and in most of Patagonia.   The chief types of vegetation in Patagonia are herbs, shrubs, grasses and brambles.  The Andean foothills of Patagonia and parts of Tierra del Fuego, however possess flourishing growths of conifers, notably fir, cypress, pine and cedar.  Cacti and other thorny plants predominate in the arid Andean regions of northwestern Argentina.

Wednesday, February 5, 2003 – Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

Had an interesting lunch with Clelia and Roberto.    They told us both sides of a most alarming experience.   After Roberto’s stint as Ambassador to the United States from El Salvador to the USA, they lived in Florida for a time.   Clelia was kidnapped and held for ransom for six days.   It was a most bizarre story, one that had made the international papers. She was very lucky not to have been harmed.   The FBI was quite wonderful in how they figured out where she was being held captive.    After she was kidnapped the bad guys brought her to Washington DC, on the floor of the back seat of a car, blindfolded.   Horrible.

After dinner, I went to watch a show for a while.   Adolfo had repeated his usual routine and gone to the room right after dinner.   The show didn’t hold my interest so I went back to the room and found Adolfo sitting on the sofa with two people I’d never met before!

Usually, on a special day such as a birthday or anniversary, the stewardess for your room will decorate it with balloons, confetti, etc.   There’ll be fresh flowers, some sort of food to nibble and a bottle of wine or champagne.   Adolfo’s birthday had been the day before.  Apparently our stewardess was a day behind!  In addition to the usual balloons and confetti, there was a chilled bottle of white wine in a beautiful silver icer, another icer on the floor filled with Beck’s beer, peanuts scattered all over the cocktail table amidst the confetti, and a warm note written by Venus, our stewardess from South Africa.

Now, you’re wondering about the two people on the sofa?   Venus had taken our two terry cloth robes (supplied by the ship), stuffed them with tissue, sat them on the sofa with one’s arm around the other, made heads with drawn faces, and added our sun hats to the mix!  It was the funniest thing I’ve ever seen in those elegant staterooms.   Adolfo got a huge kick out of it.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Zodiac - Aries, Virgo, Capricorn, Pisces, Gemini, Libra, Sagittarius, Leo, Cancer, Aquarius, Scorpio and Taurus.

Fauna of Argentina.  In the north the fauna is most diverse and abundant.  The mammals in these regions include several species of monkeys, jaguars, pumas, ocelots, anteaters, tapirs, peccaries and raccoons.  Indigenous birds include the flamingo and various hummingbirds and parrots.  In the Pampas are armadillos, foxes, martens, wildcats, hare, deer, American ostriches or rheas, hawks, falcons, herons, plovers and partridges; some of these animals are also found in Patagonia.   The cold Andean regions are the habitat of llamas, guanacos, vicunas, alpacas (all of the same family) and condors.   Fish abound in coastal waters, lakes and streams.

Thursday, February 6, 2003 – Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

We have another day at sea.   Not too good in the weather department – only slightly warmer today.   Played team trivia once again.   “Broncos” (our team) still hold the lead.   Tomorrow is the final and will comprise questions only about the ship and the Seabourn line.   We’re all studying madly!

Had lunch and dinner with the Quinonez’ from El Salvador.  Then out onto the deck at 9:30 p.m for a choice of several flambé desserts.    So cold, wind blowing, didn’t stay out very long!   All in all, it was another uneventful, quiet and renewing day.

Played at the Casino once again.   I’m not very lucky this trip.   Gambling money set aside for this trip is fast disappearing.   Guess I’ll be really finished before the cruise is over.

TRIVIA:  Name the seven wonders of the ancient world?

This is the land of Maria Eva Duarte and Juan Domingo Peron.   Their story has been immortalized in the musical “Evita”.  Their reign in Argentina was mixed with scandal and adoration.   Even today they are looked upon with the same mixture of emotions.

Friday, February 7, 2003 – Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

We are going to Iguazu Falls tomorrow.   Have been talked into it.  Those in the travel office aboard ship think they’ve allayed my fears of flying in a small plane, one in “good condition”.  I think they’re all lying.  Adolfo really wants to go.  Realistically, I don’t think we’ll ever come this way again so might as well take advantage of the opportunity that Seabourn is offering its in-transit guests.

Saturday, February 8, 2003 – Buenos Aires, Argentina – Iguazu Falls

Left the ship this morning for the airport in Buenos Aires.   Because we are going to Iguazu Falls, we will not be seeing the city of Buenos Aires, but perhaps another time.  A charter flight, the plane we flew was military, a Fokker F28, seated about one hundred passengers, looked on the new side, had Rolls Royce engines, and seemed in generally very good shape. This was a better experience than the planes we flew in Ecuador and Peru five years ago to go to Macchu Picchu, or to Chichen Itza where we could see the earth through the floor of the plane!

The flight took about one hour and forty minutes, fairly smooth.  Before landing in Iguazu, the pilot did a fly-over of the falls, dipping wings on both sides so we could get an aerial view of the falls (cataratas).  Seems impossible that there could be a waterfall area this large. From the air the falls go on forever, two and sometimes three layers falling downward, some thin, some so wide as to take one’s breath away and most rushing downward with tremendous force.   Colors as seen from the air go from foamy white to a dark green.   The waters feeding the falls, the rivers Iguaze and Parana, are dirty brownish green to foamy white.  They come together at a point where three countries join – Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.

After landing in Iguazu, we boarded a bus to take us to the Hotel Internacional Iguazu (a Sheraton) on the Argentine side of the falls.    Rooms on one side of the hotel (our side) have a clear view to the Argentine side of the falls.  Above the falls are miles of mist climbing skyward.    Lush green gardens with neat brick paths surround this modern and very clean hotel.   The building’s back façade reminded me of the Mauna Kea Hotel in Hawaii.  The lobby has teak and tile floors, lots of open space and wonderful views everywhere.  We are in the jungle!

After checking into this delightful hotel we all met with our guide and walked to the train station, the clean steam train took us out to the furthest point on the hotel property to a trail which ends at a viewing platform right over Devil’s Throat falls – Garganta del Diablo.   The “trail” is built over wetlands, many fingers of the rushing rivers and waterfalls.   Huge cement pilings have been sunk into the earth.  Elevated iron walkways have been constructed on top of the pilings.   The walkways hold two feet by five feet iron mesh plates that are bolted to the metal frame.   Metal railings keep you from falling into the water and being swept away. 

The weather was in the nineties, with humidity close to the top of the scale.   So hot and sweaty!   Animals and butterflies are everywhere.   Turtles, puma, cougars, monkeys, coati abound in the jungle all around us.  Only saw the turtles.   Tons of butterflies fill the air – yellow, white, solid color, patterned, large, small and medium.  Saw one very plain butterfly (large and black) sitting on a leaf, but when disturbed it flew away to our collective gasp.   Its wings opened to a span of six inches and revealed an electric blue pattern – so beautiful, this amorphous butterfly.    I often expected to see an animated Snow White walking along kicking up clouds of butterflies, just like a Disney film.   Although we saw an occasional epithelial orchid, a wild begonia, this is not the season for wild flowers.

People walking to and from the Garganta del Diablo spoke in languages found around the world.  Am very surprised to see such an international congregation here.   Thought it would be a less traveled spot.  Was I ever wrong!   The walk on the elevated trail is a little over a mile.   In the extreme heat it seems longer.    As we neared the falls of Garganta Del Diablo the mist got thicker.   We heard a sort of low and quiet roar.   It’s amazing that we didn’t hear it much sooner.   Perhaps this is because we were above the falls and the noise is really at the bottom where the water hits.

Suddenly, we arrived.   This is where my writing gets really difficult.   Perhaps Eleanor Roosevelt put it best when she saw Iguazu for the first time.   She looked at the falls and said, “Poor Niagara!”  Travelers on our overnight tour who’d been to both Niagara and Victoria Falls said there is no comparison.  Iguazu wins without contest.   It is difficult to describe the power, the noise, the wet mist, absolute amazement on the faces of all around us.    Waters fall over what is left of a portion of a volcano.   At the bottom of the falls the Rio del Plata, River Plate or River of Silver begins its journey out to the south Atlantic.   The river is so wide as it enters the Atlantic at the coast, from one shore the other is invisible.    Tomorrow night we will leave Buenos Aires, Argentina on one shore and arrive at Montivedeo, Uruguay the following morning on the other shore.

Underneath and to the front of where we stood the falls were all around us – the mist so thick that the bottom of the falls was obscured.   The mist exploded upwards.  Rainbows came and went at different places, depending on the rays of the sun.  It’s truly amazing.   I can’t describe more because I can’t find the words.  Perhaps the right words haven’t yet been invented!

We trekked back to the train station, boarded and made the return trip toward some lesser falls, but just before the station that begins the trailhead, a rain started which could drown a mere mortal.   The force of the rain was really quite sudden and surprising.   Everyone on the train was hooting and yelling and laughing.  Most passengers really enjoyed the

prospect of walking anywhere in this deluge.   We all had ponchos, but because of the high heat and humidity, the poncho would only become a personal sauna – guess it was preferable, though, to having the weight of soaking wet clothing dragging us down as we walked.  

We all sat on the stopped train for a while.   When the rain showed no sign of letting up we decided to give the second falls a “pass” and walk back to the hotel for a hot shower.   Everyone in our group decided to do the same.   This was really fun!   The rain pelted our flimsy disposable ponchos.  Our shoes and the bottoms of our shorts/pants got soaked as we hopped over puddles and tried to skirt the fast developing red mud.

After a hot shower, a drink and buffet dinner, we retired to await our 5:30 a.m. wakeup call the next morning when we’d depart for the Brazil side of the falls.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Seven wonders of the ancient world:  Hanging Gardens of Babylon; Lighthouse of Alexandria; Pyramids at Giza; Mausoleum at Halicarnassus; Colossus of Rhodes; Temple of Artemis at Ephesus; and, State of Zeus at Olympia.

Iguazu Falls is made up on some two hundred seventy individual cataracts that plunge three hundred feet along the massive horseshoe precipice.   With a half million gallons of water crashing down every second, the thunder of the cataracts is almost deafening, while a dense mist of spray reflects a parade of rainbows on all sides.  There are footbridges, belvederes and even a panoramic elevator, all strategically placed to afford optimal views of each and every cataract.

Saturday, February 9, 2003 – Iguazu Falls, Brazil side.

Our wakeup call woke us promptly at 6:00 a.m.  After a quick breakfast we got back on the bus with all belongings.   We were heading to the Brazil side and would go through checkpoints of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.  We expected some delay at one checkpoint – not sure which – totally confused as to where we were.

Stopped at a heliport so that those who preferred not to walk the difficult trail this day could go on a helicopter ride for a fifteen-minute fly over of Iguazu falls.   This stop wasn’t scheduled, so the rest of us who sat on the bus for one and one half hours were not too happy.  There was only one helicopter and it had to make several trips.  Sometimes the local guides do what they want and not what Seabourn has paid them to do.  On the previous day and also on this day lots of precious time was squandered away as our guides got a little too creative with the schedule.   We all wanted to spend as much time as possible viewing the falls.   We reported back to the travel office once back aboard ship.

Finally we cleared the last checkpoint and arrived at the Hotel Cataratas, were deposited at the trailhead and cautioned not to touch any animals.   Adult and baby coatimundis were all around us, skittering through and around our legs, into and out of garbage receptacles, running up and down trees.   They look like raccoons, but with pointier heads and they all acted completely manic skittering to and fro!  

Falls from the Brazil side are totally different - absolutely breathtaking.  Vast. Awesome power.  A gift from God might sound corny but how else could one explain this phenomenon.   We viewed two and three tiered falls, some small, some large, and all beyond description.    We were to climb down a trail with lots of stairs and go out onto a platform at the lower river level.  This time we’d be looking up at the falls, and the mists there could surely drown us.   Thankfully, we’d dried out yesterday’s disposable ponchos and tried to fold them to carry today.  Not quite as neat as originally packed, but sufficient.

Down we went, descending difficult uneven steps of cement and downward ramps.   I worried about Adolfo and his knees but he did very well.   The outlooks along the way brought more gasps and wide eyes.   Hard not to look at the falls when one is walking but then you run the risk of tumbling off the trail, down the mountain and into the river.   Huge, and I mean really HUGE, spiders wove webs in the trees. More coatis at our feet, lots of different birds everywhere and flocks of toucans with huge red bills flew overhead.   A young vulture sat in a leafless tree.   Quite a picture!   Our very funny guide seemed to be prompting us to say “WOW!” or “MAGNIFIQUE” (she pronounced “magnific”).   If we didn’t gush adequately she thought we didn’t like the falls.  Most of us were just too dumb struck to utter anything!   Silly woman!

Upon reaching the bottom of the trail at lower river level we were once again mesmerized by the power and beauty before us.   My poncho came in handy as I went out to the furthest point on the platform beneath the falls.  If I stood facing the major falls directly ahead of me, (at 12:00 on the face of a clock) then slowly turned to the right, I would be viewing falls all the way to 6:00 on the face of a clock.   We could also finally see the walkway over Garganta del Diablo that we’d trod the day before, way beyond the Brazil falls over on the Argentine side.   The people on them were almost indistinguishable – so tiny.   The near invisibility of those people was a good measure to the size, depth and breadth of the falls before us.   There were eighteen-passenger zodiacs visible on the river at the bottom of the falls.   If we’d had more time at Iguazu, the zodiac would have been my vantage point of choice from which to experience another facet of this beautiful place.

On the Brazil side of the falls there has been an elevator to ride to the bottom and then to be whisked back to the top.   But, it is currently under reconstruction. Given what we’ve been eating, it’s probably good that we had the exercise.

When it came time to begin the ascent up another set of steep stairs to gain the bus and go to the Hotel Cataratas for lunch, no one wanted to leave.   But, with some sorrow to be leaving this blessed site, we departed.   Will probably never go to Iguazu Falls again, but recommend it to anyone in the area of Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay or Brazil – maybe from anywhere in South America!  It is well worth the effort to get there.

Personal Recommendation:  While the Sheraton hotel where we stayed on the Argentine side was preferable to the one on the Brazil side, the Brazil side of the falls is more dramatic and has much better vantage points as one descends toward the river level on the foot trail.   The hotel in Brazil is older and not so wide open to surrounding views.   See the Argentine side first and then after staying overnight at the Sheraton, go to the Brazil side and be prepared to be swept away by the beauty and majesty there.

As usual, there were some people on the overland tour who couldn’t be happy with accommodations, food, travel plans, change in plans, etc.   They are everywhere we go.   Their “glass always half empty” attitude is so tiring.   While there are a few things on this trek that could have been done better or more conveniently for the paying guests, complaining about everything wouldn’t change a thing right then and there. 

After lunch, we were off to the airport and a return to Buenos Aires, and to our ship scheduled to sail to Montevideo, Uruguay at 6:00 p.m.

Many of our friends from the first two weeks had departed the ship for return to their homes. Lots of new passengers awaited us - those who boarded in Buenos Aires earlier today.   We were informed that last evening aboard ship before we left for Iguazu, that there would be some fifty guests continuing on to Rio and many like us on to Manaus in the Amazon.

TRIVIA:   What is nychtophobia?

Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca is credited with the discovery of the awesome Iguazu Falls in 1541 – he was, at best, the first European to view them.   For the Guarani Indians of the region and their predecessors, these impressive falls had been the source of legend for millennia.

According to Guarani legend the falls originated when an Indian warrior named Caroba incurred the wrath of the forest god by escaping down the river in a canoe with a young girl named Naipur, with whom the god had become infatuated.   Enraged, the god caused the riverbed to collapse in front of the lovers, producing a line of precipitous falls over which Naipur fell, and at their base, turned into a rock.   Caroba survived as a tree overlooking his fallen lover.

The geological origins of the falls are simpler and more prosaic.  In Southern Brazil, the Rio Iguazu  passes over a basaltic plateau that ends abruptly just east of the confluence with the Rio Parana.   When the lava flow stopped, at least 5000 cubic meters of water per second plunges more than 70 meters into the sedimentary terrain below – during floods, the volume can be many times greater.   Prior to reaching the falls, the river divides into many channels with hidden reefs, rocks and islands, separating the many visually distinctive falls that together form the famous “cataratas”.   In total, the falls are more than two kilometers across.

Monday, February 10, 2003 – Montevideo, Uruguay

Today we visited La Rabida, a working estancia (ranch) in the countryside of Uruguay.   There were about twenty of us going on this trip.  Those who wished could milk cows, shear sheep, ride Arabian horses, and generally get the feel of what it is to live on an estancia in Uruguay.

At the gate to La Rabida our bus was met by the grandchildren of the owner,  ages seven to eighteen, who rode on beautiful Arabian horses, all dressed in the gaucho riding pant, white shirted, smiling and waving their welcome.   There were two horses and riders leading the bus onto the property, one rider bearing the flag of the estancia, and the other bearing the flag of Uruguay.   The mounted children galloped alongside the bus, racing each other and the bus.   These young people were beautiful, at one with their mounts and the land on which they rode.   I was homesick.  Otherwise, why was I teary eyed?

Recently widowed, Olga Garaveytia (a Basque name), owner of the estancia, two of her sons, a daughter, in-laws, and of course, the grandchildren made us feel very welcome.   We were introduced to everyone, given refreshment and the schedule of the day.   All the trees on the property, except for original three around the house, came from Europe brought by the family.   The plants have been so well tended through the years that the grounds have the appearance of a natural park.    Over in the corner, there was what looked like a metal bed frame, large as a double bed, screened over with metal, set at a slant to the ground.   Over a huge bed of coals, there was enough roasting meat on it to feed everyone aboard the ship, including the crew!  All the meat on the BBQ was grown on the ranch – chicken, suckling pig, rack of lamb and the famed beef of the region.   A smaller stone fireplace held skewers of roasting corn.   (The estancia grows tons of corn for silage.)    And on another portable BBQ (with wheels) there roasted sausages, beef kidneys and sweetbreads – appetizers to be served before lunch.   We were told that all vegetables and salad served that day is grown in the garden adjacent to the house.

This ranch’s main product is milk from the Holstein cows.   They also raise sheep, Arabian horses, pigs, and are just beginning to develop a herd of ostrich, the meat and by-product of which will be used for export.  All of the grandchildren spend their summers at the estancia, learning a particular part of the running of the ranch.   Those workers who run the ranch while the family is not in residence have been employed there forty years or more.  

After refreshments we boarded various modes of transportation – old carriages, a hay wagon drawn by a tractor, and some other really old conveyances drawn by horse.   Off we went to visit the mile and a half of beach owned by the family on the Rio Del Plata.   About thirty minutes later, we’d traveled through large herds of Holstein cattle, seen sheep, enjoyed wild flowers, and been escorted once again by all of the children on horseback as they opened and closed many gates separating the different herds.

Reaching our beach destination on the Rio del Plata,we walked down a slanted trail and watched the children racing their horses up and down the beautiful white sand and in and out of the water.   We returned to the antiquated transportation, and bumpily rode back to the ranch house for lunch.   The BBQ was ready and was it ever tasty!

Before lunch we sipped beer and wine, or soft drinks, and munched on barbecued mini corn on the cob, sweetbreads, lamb kidneys and one other thing that has gone from the memory. What is memorable about this cocktail hour was the rather large woman who ate at least half of what was on the cocktail barbecue, and between each of her million bites, told us all how each bit could have been better cooked!

There was a small display of articles by Manos del Uruguay that our hostess had begun as a cooperative for the many talented Uruguayan women in isolated villages throughout the country.  Before her concept of Manos, these artisans had no venue to sell their goods.   The quality is exceptional.    I bought three sweaters – one each for Trent, Alex and Sofia.   Couldn’t find anything small enough for Daniel.

Local dancers entertained while we munched on the delicious food.   They were talented and lots of fun.  Besides the dance, they played drums and danced a routine with the bollerias which gauchos used to rope animals in the old days.   While we ate we noticed that two of the children were crying and had crawled into Papa’s lap for comfort.   We learned that one of the cousins had fallen off a horse, become unconscious and Grandma Olga had taken him to the hospital in Montevideo.  The children were so sad that one of their cousins had been hurt.   We later received word that the child was slightly concussed but would be fine.   All this time, the family never faltered in their graciousness and hospitality.   This family and their interpersonal relationships were refreshing to watch.   Their love for each other and the generosity they extended to their guests left all of us feeling that we’d like to stay and stay and stay.  But, alas, the ship was going to sail and we had to be on it.   Almost time to go back.

After lunch, those who wished took a turn at shearing sheep, milking cow, riding the Arabians, and taking turns riding atop a dried cowhide, being pulled through the meadow by an Arabian-mounted rider.    It was like tobogganing along on deep grass at break neck speed.   It was fun to watch – didn’t participate.

ANSWER:  Nychtophobia?  - fear of the dark.

The terrain in the south of Uruguay consists of grassy, rolling plains, except for tidal marshland along the Atlantic coast.  In the northwest there is a low plateau, the Cuchilla de Haedo, diversified by ridges of hills that rise to 1237 feet above sea level.  The eastern portion of Urugray is dominated by the Cuchilla Grande mountain range that extends generally south from Brazil to a point near Punta del Este; it’s altitude is 1644 feet at Mirador Nacional that is the highest elevation in Uruguay.  Woodlands occur chiefly along the riverbanks.

The Negro is the principal river of the Uruguayan interior; only its lower portion is navigable. The Uruguay River is navigable from its mouth to Salto.  Uruguay has 120 miles of Atlantic Coastline and 505 miles of frontage along its boundary rivers, including 270 miles on the Uruguay River and 235 miles on its estuary, the River Plate.   Pollution of both rivers is increasing.

The country’s principal resources are agricultural; minerals are scarce.   The soils are generally very fertile except for the sandy, marshy soils along the eastern coast.   Hydroelectric power is of major import in Uruguay.   The principal hydroelectric power plant is Salto Grande on the Uruguay River; two other plants are in operation on the Negro, and another, on the Brazilian border, was constructed during the 1980s.   The electricity industry is under the control of the government.

Tuesday, February 11, 2003 – Punta Del Este, Uruguay

Today the ship anchored off Punta Del Este, Uruguay.   Passengers had to be tendered ashore.   We were scheduled for a tour but I awoke with a tummy problem so Adolfo went alone.   Caught up with all laundry and ironed a bit.   Adolfo returned saying that I hadn’t missed much.

I spoke too soon when I reported that Adolfo had no trouble with the new digital camera.  For some reason, the setting of 3 megapixels that Christina programmed has suddenly reverted to the 5 megpixels setting.   Couldn’t figure out how to get it to stay at the “3” setting.   Doctor on the ship had the same camera and the same trouble.

Additional problems arose today after Adolfo came back from touring Punta del Este, he was once again playing with the settings, when he accidentally deleted all of the photos for this day’s tour.  Oh well, since I didn’t miss anything staying aboard ship, guess it’s okay to lose these pictures.

TRIVIA:   Name the European countries bordering Germany?

Wednesday, February 12, 2003 – Cruising the South Atlantic

WOW!  What a night last night.   During the dinner hour at around 8:00 p.m., the boat started to rock and roll.   After dinner I went up to the casino, won quite handily but instead of continuing my winning streak decided that I should get back to the room.   People were struggling to keep their feet beneath them.   The swimming pool had sloshed over so badly that the water was leaking down into the stairwell in the reception area and into the ship’s library.  When I went through reception on my way to bed, the tile floors were covered with bath towels.  Ship’s personnel were cautioning everyone and offering escort to those who couldn’t navigate the rocking ship.

Managed to get to the room, literally fell into bed and then just hung on for dear life.  The bottles of vodka and champagne began skittering across the marble countertop, nail polish bottles were flying all over the room.  Got out of bed in a quiet moment and jammed the liquor bottles into the sofa cushions.   Stuck the vase with orchids into the bathroom sink and fell back into bed to await the end of the storm.  Would you believe that Adolfo snored peacefully through that bit?

All night I battled nausea and discomfort with the rocking ship.   Waves and water and foam covered our four feet by five feet stateroom window.  The noise was deafening as the bow of the ship came out of the water and hit the sea’s surface really hard on its way back down.  Many times the noise sounded as though we’d hit something.  Barely slept. When it was time for me to get up to have my hair cut and colored in the salon at 8:00 a.m., could barely navigate.   The still rolling ship and the lack of sleep almost did me in!   When would the motion stop?

The ship’s beautician completed the color portion of my appointment would not trim my hair because she felt that having scissors in her hand under the circumstances could be dangerous most particularly to my two and only ears!

Adolfo went up to breakfast and found that he was only one of five diners at a time when the Veranda Café is usually teeming with people.   As the morning progressed, more and more people surfaced only to tell their own horror stories of the night just passed.   It seemed that all of the rooms with French balconies on the starboard side of the ship suffered the most during the storm.   All of those staterooms flooded as the force of the water pushed through the seams of the sliding glass doors.  Many carpets had to be replaced as we cruised toward Rio.  Mattresses were seen in the hallways.  We could hear hammers and saws at work as we walked through the ship.   In the library the ceiling panels had to be removed to dry out water soaked wiring from the overflowing pool.   The crew looked every bit as haggard and ragged as the rest of us.

While strolling through the dining room at lunch we were asked to join the horse people whom we’d dined with in a group earlier on the cruise.   Remember the guy who belonged to the “Teeny Weeny Bladder Club”?  Not to be rude, we sat down and were regaled with all they knew about everything!  Some people are just difficult – no matter how nice you are or how patient.   Some personalities do not change or mellow!   We’d seen them many times since the earlier dinner.   He’d had many chances to apologize for his rude behavior but that apology was never forthcoming.

Adolfo and I also made a trip to the doctor’s office.   When we’d had dinner at her table the other night she recommended that we have yellow fever shots as we were going into the Amazon region.   So now we are protected against that – I think for the next ten years!  Doctor and Adolfo plan to get together to try to figure out how to change the settings on their identical digital cameras.

The Atlantic has finally calmed down, rain has stopped and there is partial sun.   Captain informed us that we had winds during the night and in the early morning up to a seven and eight force, just under gale force designation.

All day long the ship was abuzz with workmen, ripping up wet carpet so it can dry, while they replaced padding, resealed the balcony windows and repaired all that was broken the night before.

TRIVIA ANSWER:  Countries adjacent to Germany are Poland, Denmark, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland, Austria, Czech Republic, Belgium and Netherlands.

Samba:  Afro-Brazilian folk dance and its ballroom derivative.   The folk samba, also called batuque, is highly syncopated and is accompanied by percussion instruments and singing in which a soloist and chorus alternate.   It is a group dance, done frequently in a circle.  As a dance for couples in two-four time, the samba became urbanized in the late 1800s and grew in international popularity in the 1920s and 1930s.   In the 1960s its melodies, harmonies and rhythms were deeply influenced by the new, slightly jazz-tinged bossa nova music of Brazil.

Thursday, February 13, 2003 - Itajai, Brazil

We are sailing toward a brand new and unscheduled port.   Brand new, because ours will be the first ship to dock in this new port facility.   The port is awaiting our arrival with bands, dancers and when we leave at midnight, there will be more festivities and lots of fireworks.   We’ve decided to give the bus tour a miss and just walk around the town.   It will be great to be on our own for a while.  The weather today is lovely, in the mid 70’s.  It should be very pleasant to be outside.

As we arrived in port there were thousands of firecrackers shot into the air.   They exploded with lots of noise and tons of flash.   It was quite something to see fireworks in daytime!

People in town were very friendly.   Stores abounded with goods that I’d never want to buy.  Apartments must not be too roomy because all of the furniture and kitchen appliances seemed to be much smaller than usual.  Stopped in front of one jewelry store just to see what they were offering and lo and behold, there was a ring of rutillated quartz.   Walked back to the ship to see if it was a match for a necklace that Adolfo bought for me five years ago from a jeweler in Larkspur Landing (Norman Mahan).    The match was not great but the price was, so I have a new ring.  We bargained a bit and had the price of the ring reduced considerably.   I’ll enjoy it.

We left port at night to the accompaniment of beautiful fireworks display - lots of color, lots of noise and lots of different shapes - a truly memorable departure.

TRIVIA: What is the longest man-made thing in the world?

Bossa Nova:  (Portuguese, “new wave”), Brazilian musical style from the late 1950s that had a radical effect on Brazilian musical forms such as the samba and achieved worldwide fame and popularity.  While its rhythmic structure has its roots in folk and classical samba, bossa nova music is also characterized by melodic and harmonic complexity.  Bossa nova was developed by composer Antonio Carlos Jobim and singer-guitarist Joao Gilberto.   Their first major recording in the bossa nova style was “Cega de Saudade” in 1959.  What made bossa nova different from previous forms of Latin American music was the way the various elements of a song, such as melody and rhythm, were given equal emphasis.   Even the contribution of the singer was integrated and the vocals given a characteristic slightly nasal smoothness.   The guitar often had a strong function, both rhythmic and melodic.  Gilberto himself developed a style known as violao gago (“stammering guitar”.

Continued in Part II.