January 2004 - Australia, New Zealand and Fiji - Seabourn Spirit

Tuesday, January 13, 2004 - Auckland, New Zealand – Airport

We have just arrived from Los Angeles – twelve hours flying time. We have a three-hour layover and then a five and a half hour flight from here to Cairns, Australia. We landed in Auckland at 7:00 in the morning. Weather is very overcast, some rain showers, temperature somewhere in the low 60’s. Should be a lot warmer when we get to Cairns.

Have just figured out that by the time we reach Port Douglas, a one-hour drive from Cairns Airport, we will have traveled over thirty hours from San Francisco Airport.

Adolfo and I did sleep a bit on the flight out. A huge 747, not too new, bore us through the air with very few bumps. My one disappointment is that the plane was too old to accommodate the airplane wire for my computer so I didn’t use it at all on the flight over.

Service in business class was very nice, food more than adequate, though seats I found to be the most uncomfortable yet on any business class we’ve flown. Have a stiff neck, a sore lower back, and both ankles hurt because I kept trying to lengthen the footrest. Could this indeed be the plane or just “approaching” old age!

Later . . .

Well, here we are finally in Port Douglas, Australia. Our plane was held up in Auckland as the Oceanic radar system went down for monitoring incoming and outgoing flights. We had already taxied out to our takeoff point when we were told to hold position until the system could be fixed. One hour later, fuel running low, and still waiting for the system to restart, our pilot announced that we’d have to return to our starting gate and top off the fuel tanks. Then perhaps the system would he up and running and we’d take off for Cairns. With all that, we were one and a half hours late leaving Auckland, but made up one hour during the flight to arrive only thirty minutes late in Cairns. Easy experience through customs, Aussies delightful, and our driver “Carrie” waited for us, sign in hand - “CAPURRO” (even spelled right!). Baggage into the sedan – a Holden – (Aussie made, but somehow a General Motors product), and we were off on a one-hour drive to Port Douglas and the Sheraton Mirage.

It is sooooooo hot and humid. After temperatures in Marin in the 40’s during the last few weeks we’ve walked into a larger than life sauna. The hotel is beautiful and our room is quite luxurious. It is a corner suite with one of the many swimming pools wrapping around us. There are five and a half acres of swimming pools on the property, all salt water with the exception of one fresh water pool. It’s a short walk to a beautiful beach, Four Mile Beach, where swimming should be a real pleasure, except that during the four months of December, January, February and March, the beaches of Australia are plagued with jellyfish. In popular swimming areas nets keep out the larger ones some of which are lethal, but there is a smaller variety of jellyfish that penetrate the nets and can send you to hospital if you are stung. So, it’s the pools for me – not the beach. We were told, however, that when we go out to the Great Barrier Reef, the jellyfish are not a problem.

It’s almost 5:00 p.m. We are showered and in our pajamas, waiting for a decent time to order room service, Then after a couple of Tylenol PM we hope to crash for a decent night’s sleep.

Port Douglas is positioned near the smaller end of the Great Barrier Reef, one of the natural wonders of the world. It is World Heritage listed and one of Australia’s and the world’s premier holiday destinations. The combination of glorious weather (except during the rainy season!), pristine rainforest, white sandy beaches, and an ocean varying in the hue from blue to turquoise to green, ensures it’s where the world wants to go to lie on the beach, swim, surf, snorkel, sail, bushwalk and bird watch. The Great Barrier Reef system consists of more than 3000 reefs that range in size from one hectare to over 10,000 hectares in area. The reef is scattered with beautiful islands and idyllic coral cays and covers more than 300,000 square kilometers. The coral has, over the years, brought many ships to grief – Cook’s own Endeavour hit the reef and almost foundered – if it had, and Cook and his crew had perished – Australia history would have been quite a different story. One of the most famous wrecks is that of the HMS Pandora, which foundered in 1791. The Queensland Museum has been leading archaeological digs to the Pandora since 1983 and its most recent was completed in February 1999.

Wednesday, January 14, 2004 – Port Douglas, Australia

I called Papa in Sonoma yesterday afternoon thinking it was 10:30 a.m. in California, only to wake him up because it was 10:30 p.m. He was much more gracious than I would have been if the circumstances were reversed. This morning I called and got Mama who said we could call anytime. The wonders of my world telephone are mind- boggling. The connection was immediate and clear as crystal.

After the best clubhouse sandwich of our lives, we were asleep before 7:00 last night. I slept uninterrupted until 2:30 this a.m., read a bit and then slept two more hours. It rained most of the night, weather this morning is overcast with promise of showers, light to heavy throughout the day. We went to the hotel restaurant for a wonderful breakfast buffet. The best of it featured all of the fresh fruits now available here in Australia – pineapple, stone melon (juicy but not too tasty), lichee nuts still in their hard, red, knobby skin, papaya, watermelon, cantaloupe, and more. Then on to the omelets, cooked to order with whatever you chose to have in them, a wonderful caffe latte, and a table full of lovely pastries which I skipped – ah, such virtue!

After breakfast we visited the tour office and are now booked into activities for the next three days. Today will be an easy one as we laze and swim most of the day. At 3:30 p.m., we must be in the lobby for the shuttle into Port Douglas where we’ll board the Lady Douglas, a tiny tour boat, for a sunset cruise to view a crocodile habitat while sipping champagne. Felt I could do this with a bit of help from the bubbly! When we get off the boat we’ll walk a block to a recommended restaurant, “2 Fish”, which features the day’s local fresh catch cooked and sauced to your particularly liking.

We tried to get a booking into Sea Oaks Lodge but they’re totally full. This restaurant, about thirty minutes from our hotel features dining in a tree house. Sounded like fun but guess the rest of the travelers thought so too and sooner than we did!

Tomorrow we’ll be all day out on the Great Barrier Reef viewing its wonders from a small stationary pontoon which features restaurant, lounge, submersible and also doing our share of snorkeling. Water temperatures are promised to be in the 70’s. The morning before we leave on Friday we’re booked to have “Breakfast With The Birds” at a local habitat. So for now, will try to work off some of breakfast by swimming . . .

Swam for a while in the saltwater pool adjacent to our room. Water temperature must be in the 80’s. It’s almost too warm to do a good swim workout. One wants only to float and relax! After the swim, a light lunch and a short rest and we were off to the Mirage Marina to catch a boat. Hopefully we’ll see some local crocodiles. We looked and we looked and we looked. Not a person aboard the boat spotted a crocodile but we saw a few egrets and other birds and millions of mangrove trees.

These mangrove trees are not only weird to look at but have a definite purpose in the ecological balance of the region and particularly the Great Barrier Reef. They grow in profusion sending down root after root and forming thick and impenetrable barriers. These groves form a natural habitat for spiders, small animals and particularly lots of snakes. UGH! The root of the mangrove has a way of grabbing onto certain impurities that leach out of the land. The mangrove roots then convert or dilute those impurities before they can reach the reef and do damage there. Am not writing any more because I don’t really understand the process.

After almost two hours on the water looking for crocs, just five minutes before docking at the end of the cruise, some of the worst weather I’ve ever seen hit us. We were reminded that this is monsoon season. Suddenly here was proof that this was true!

Pelting rain coming down in buckets, thunder, lightening and wind kept us from docking at our berth. Several people from surrounding boats came down to help. There were ropes being tossed back and forth. Finally, with the help of eight other people on the dock we were made fast to the bollards. Not one person wanted to get off to walk through the downpour. The second mate on the boat, a young woman who’d gotten totally soaked while trying to help tie up the boat now wore transparent clothing. She kept trying to hold her t-shirt away from her body. Trying to stay out of the wind and rain, I’d ducked into the little cabin where they served drinks. When the second mate was finished and saw me standing in her usual place, she came up to the bar, pounded her fist on it and said, “Okay, Bar Bitch, I’ll have a drink!” First time I’d ever been addressed as “BB”!!

We stalled and stalled getting off the boat and finally realized that our dinner reservations at “On the Inlet” restaurant were just twenty minutes away and we needed to find the restaurant. By the time we arrived at OTI. We were soaked, I was starting to get chilled and the owner of the restaurant was trying to tell us that perhaps he couldn’t serve dinner this night! All seating for the restaurant was outside, covered by huge canvas awnings. The rain and wind had come in sideways and wiped out all dry tables and seating. Waitresses were trying to dry everything off but were fighting a losing battle. In fact I thought it curious that they were swiping the water off the tables, but onto the straw chairs. What would happen when guests finally were seated? I imagined lots of soggy bottoms. I was afraid that I’d get sick again if I sat around in wet clothing while waiting on the off chance that we’d be served dinner so we called for a hotel car and sped back to dry clothing and dinner at our hotel.

Tonight I ate my first baramundi, the most sought after edible local fish - a mild, very tender white meat. It was quite good and fixed with a lovely eggplant and fresh spinach. Adolfo had farfalle pasta with assorted seafood, one of which was “bugs”. “Bugs” are the nickname for Moreton Bay Bugs that are unusually shaped shellfish, flesh and shape similar to lobster. Adolfo enjoyed the pasta dish. The waitress had pronounced the pasta as “ferfelly” and we didn’t know what she was talking about! Thinking back - probably "farfalle".

Rain began around 5:30 this afternoon. It’s now 9:15 p.m. and still pouring. Haven’t slept at all today so am anticipating a very good night’s sleep and we’ll be raring to go out to snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef tomorrow. Am I brave enough to do this? Mmmmmmm – thinking about it. . . . . .

The corals which make up the reefs and cays of the Great Barrier Reef and which are the base for this variety of sea and animal life, consist of individual coral polyps; tiny live creatures that join together to form colonies. Each polyp is a tiny jelly-like blob crowned by tentacles, and looks not unlike an anemone, but much smaller. Each polyp lives inside a shell of aragonite, a type of calcium carbonate which is the hard shell we recognize as coral. The polyps join together to create forests of colored coral in interesting fan, antler, brain and plate shapes.

There are many different types of coral, some are slow growing and live to be hundreds of years old, others are faster growing. The type of algae growing on the coral determines the color. Dead coral is white. The ideal environment for coral is shallow warm water where there is a lot of water movement, plenty of light, and the water is salty and low in nutrients.

Reefs are sensitive to climate change, to changes in patterns of water movement, and to physical damage – so problems like global warming, El Nino, the building of moorings or breakwaters, any additional nutrients running off land from human habitation, may well have a negative impact, with fragile corals broken by reef walking, dropped anchors or by boats dropping fuel and other sorts of pollution. Even the number of people in the water with the associated run-off of sweat and suntan lotions may well have a negative impact on the fragile reef environment.

Thursday, January 15, 2004 – Port Douglas, Australia

We just might have the choice taken away from us on our jaunt out to the reef today. It’s still pouring rain outside with huge claps of thunder and bright lightening. So, we’re off to an early breakfast and then will check at the desk about the predicted weather for the day.

Have just returned from breakfast after which we went into the tour office and spoke directly with the vendor who would be our host for a day on the reef. Weather continues to be fierce. There are twenty-knot (maybe 25 miles an hour?) winds going out to the pontoon on the reef, water is very rough and it’s storming out at the reef as well. The vendor recommended we cancel today, so we have. Instead, we have managed to secure reservations at Silky Oaks Resort and will munch our lunches in a tree house with the wet jungle all around us. We wanted to do this anyway but hadn’t been able to fit it into the schedule so we’ve made the best of our cancelled snorkeling plans. We are hoping to get another chance to see the Great Barrier Reef from our ship which is scheduled to stop at Hayman Island, another renowned location for snorkeling on the reef.

Later . . . We’re just back from Silky Oaks Lodge. Had a nice lunch and then dodged massive raindrops as we tried to take pictures of local exotic flowers. We found several different kinds of ginger and lots of different species of Bird of Paradise. After downloading into the computer, we find that the photos have turned out quite well.

Our return from Silky Oaks was once again marked by our being soaked and chilled and I’m not being a very good sport about going out and getting wet and cold once again for our dinner reservation in the town of Port Douglas. Think I’ve had it for the day – can’t think of anything nicer than a hot bath and bed. Could this be the onset of advanced age?!?!?

Am mostly packed and more than ready to board the ship and settle in for the next twenty-nine days. We’ve been told by many locals that as soon as our ship heads south the weather will improve – from their mouths to God’s ears! So, for tomorrow morning, it’s breakfast with the birds at the local Habitat, then back for a shower and change and wait for our car to transport to Cairns and the ship.

More than two million people visit the Great Barrier Reef annually generating more than $AU one billion in tourism dollars making tourism a major earner for the northeastern Australian economy. Tourists are carried to the reef system by more than five hundred commercial vessels and tourism is permitted through nearly all of the Park. Most of the Reef is part of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, and various parts of it are protected in certain ways – for example, fishing is restricted in some area. More particularly, whales, dolphins, green turtles and dugong (?) – are protected.

However, visitors value the reef’s beauty and diversity and there is support from tourism operators and tourists as well as government agencies to develop approaches to tourism sustainable over the longer term. One tourist who cares little for the beauty and diversity of the Great Barrier Reef system is the Crown of Thorns starfish. Since the 1960’s the Crown of Thorns has been destroying the corals that make up the reef. Crown of Thorns outbreaks go through a series of stages that can take from one to fifteen years. The impact of a Crown of Thorns infestation on sea and bird life can be significant as the corals which support and sustain this life, die.

Friday, January 16, 2004 – Boarding Seabourn Spirit

Breakfast with the birds at the local Habitat was really fun. The Habitat has several ecological environments – wetlands, rain forest and grasslands. Within those three environs we found the natural habitat, up close and personal. We took wonderful pictures of multi colored birds, emu, python, cassowary, koala bears, tree kangaroos, and walked amidst baby and young kangaroos and wallabies.

We were so up close and personal with all the animals that Adolfo left the Habitat fully anointed by the birds in the trees. While I managed to dodge the bird droppings, Adolfo looked as thought his white shirt was an avian work of art! What a mess! Back to our hotel to finish packing, shower and a change of clothing and after a couple of hours we were driven back to Cairns to board our ship.

There’s something very comforting about coming back to a ship one knows well. Not a minute has to be spent on locating anything – we already know. So we unpacked, participated in the mandatory fire drill on deck, watched the sail away from port of Cairns with a cocktail in hand and on to dinner where we were seated with two Australian couples.

One couple, Mary and Kel, are from Sydney, have sailed from Singapore and will debark at Auckland in two weeks. The other, native Aussies, have lived in Port Moresby, Papua, New Guinea for the last fifty years. They wonder what all of these crazy Americans are doing down here during the monsoon/cyclone season. So do I! All I ever heard was that it was their summer!

Disappearance of the coral gardens also has an impact on human activity, as the Great Barrier Reef’s visitors are largely drawn to the area to experience the reef. The Australian Federal Government supports a range of research programs to investigate the Crown of Thorns starfish, their impact on the reef system and possible biological and other control mechanisms for them. The latest scourge of the reef is bleaching, where corals have died in large numbers. This phenomenon is not exclusive to Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef, but has been observed on reefs throughout the world. It is thought the bleaching has been caused by rises in water temperature related to the El Nino effect, although the evidence is not conclusive.

Even with these problems and challenges the Great Barrier Reef is still one of the natural wonders of the world – an environment of extraordinary beauty and richness, with a diversity of plant, animal and sea life that makes it essential we conserve and preserve it and maintain it as a great place to relax and experience part of Australia’s natural heritage.

Saturday, January 17, 2004 – At Sea

Today is a day at sea, cruising on very calm waters slowly toward Hayman Island, where we stop tomorrow. Uneventful day. Met some nice people we dined with after the Captain’s cocktail reception. Early to bed because tomorrow morning we leave the ship at 6:45 a.m. to go out to the Great Barrier Reef – a morning filled with a ride in a semi-submersible and some snorkeling.

Hayman Island Resort is a five star resort like no other and is regarded as a “jewel in the crown” of the Great Barrier Reef Marin Park providing opulence at its best. Situated in Australia’s Whitsunday Islands, in the spectacular Great Barrier Reef, it is recognized as one of the top destinations in the world, attracting discerning guests seeking a unique and special resort experience.

2002 Awards Hayman is acknowledged as an Australian tourism icon and a leader in resort excellence. The resort also enjoys success and recognition through receipt of prestigious local and international awards including The Travel Channel, Top Beach Resorts; 2002 Elite Traveler Magazine Pure Decadence List. Features of Hayman Island Resort are a saltwater swimming pool, two freshwater pools, a fully equipped health club, six restaurants, beauty salon, shopping arcade and weddings at their tropical Stella Maris Chapel.

Sunday, January 18, 2004 – Great Barrier Reef – Hayman Island

This morning we departed the ship out near an unnamed island, right onto a huge catamaran. The boat was operated by FantaSea and took us out to the reef in the Whitsunday Islands. Nearest land was thirty-five miles away - Hayman Island. At the reef is a large, permanent pontoon replete with gift shop. There are four young people who live on the pontoon for four days, then have four days off before going back out to the reef. These live-in positions are rotated. There are accommodations where guests can reserve space for an overnight on the pontoon. When all of the day tourists go home you’ve got the whole space to yourself, complete with personal guides. The permanent crew cooks for you. That would be a hoot!

The water is lovely cerulean blue, with touches of turquoise as you look out toward the horizon. Right near the pontoon are thousands of beautiful fish swimming everywhere, some larger than I’d expected. Many different colors and varieties of fish abound on the reef, not to mention the different kinds of coral that surprise the viewer because of intense color and varied shape.

Six of us decided to pay extra and snorkel with a guide who would explain what we were seeing. Although this proved informative it was very awkward. Holding onto a rope strung around two life saving rings, we got into the water. We were positioned around these rings at west, south and east, while the guide took the position at north. The reason for this was so that the guide could talk to all of us and I think also make certain that none of us would drown or be swept away!

Very strong currents caused the two outside swimmers to be thrown against the very nice, but perfect stranger next to her. I was that outside positioned swimmer and tried both sides. I finally gave up trying not to get too intimate with the gentleman along side – it was exhausting. So I swam about five feet away and managed to keep up with everyone quite nicely, hearing all the information given while getting an extreme workout fighting the current. We stayed in the water approximately thirty minutes. About ten minutes remaining and I felt a sting. Then suddenly my whole body was being stung, even under the cover of my bathing suit. No one else was saying anything so I thought that perhaps I might be having a reaction to suntan lotion or perhaps the salt content in the water was so high that it was irritating my skin. Didn’t want to make a fuss about it but it got increasingly uncomfortable. When our official tour was over, instead of staying in the water (that had been my plan), once back on the pontoon I asked if anyone had had a similar stinging experience. One of the gentlemen with us said that he’d almost gotten out of the water ten minutes before the swim was scheduled to end, but he too thought it was something innocuous. One of the crew on the catamaran later told us that we’d been attacked by sea lice – UGH! Doesn’t that sound purely terrible? Being attacked by sea lice is like being bitten by “no see-ums”. You know something’s happening but you can’t see anything.

When we’d had our ride in the semi-submersible for further viewing of the reef, we were ferried back to Hayman Island where our ship was anchored. Those who wanted to investigate the Hayman Island Resort, one of the most posh in the world, could do so. Those who wanted to go back to the ship could catch a tender.

Adolfo chose to go investigate Hayman Resort. I chose the tender back to the ship. After a wonderful shower I sit in an air-conditioned room bringing my journal up to date. Adolfo has not yet returned. My body is still stinging but getting better. It has tiny, pinpoint scratches all over it.

This morning’s adventure was really wonderful, sea lice and all. It’s amazing to think that we snorkeled thirty-five miles out at sea.

Activities at Hayman Island include water sports, cruises, joy flights, fishing, catamarans, yachts, diving, reef tours, golf driving range and putting green, health club, tennis and much more!

Hayman Island features an impressive infrastructure and an immense diversity of flora and fauna in the most beautiful surroundings. Guests can take a glass bottom boat trip to snorkel just offshore to view the coral or enjoy a full day trip with a delicious seafood buffet lunch to the outer reef.

There are many exciting day trips but a great one is a cruise from Hayman Island to Whitehaven Beach, where you can sunbathe on its famous pure white sand beach. Feeling adventurous? Then try one of the helicopter sightseeing expeditions that you’ll never forget.

Visitors receive the best of both worlds, combining magnificence with the natural beauty of a tropical paradise. These unique facilities are popular with conference groups and couples, both from overseas and Australia alike.

Hayman Island Resort has won many tourism awards and is one of three Australian resorts to become a member of the Leading Hotels of the World.

Answer to Trivia #3: Arthur Conan Doyle’s first published book was “Study in Scarlet”.

Monday, January 19, 2004 – At Sea

We are sailing into a very strong wind, classified as “strong gale”. Eight to thirteen foot swells, somewhat reduced from earlier today. Sea conditions are very rough making it difficult to get around the ship. For the first time in any of our cruises I’ve taken a pill, spent most of the day lying abed. ‘Tis a very good diet day! Subsisting on green apple, crackers, crystallized ginger and ginger ale. So far, almost so good! Am contemplating whether or not to attend the Cruise Director’s table, where we’ve been invited to dine this evening. The jury’s still out.

We were supposed to attend a cocktail party at 6:45 p.m., which has just been cancelled by telephone. They’re afraid someone will get hurt trying to keep his footing in the topmost lounge. Lots of motion up there!

Good Lord! The ship is heaving and pitching in and out of the water, shuddering down and sounding as though the bow is striking an immovable object. The noise is sometimes deafening. The Captain has just announced that we’re facing twenty-foot swells and our ship will probably be five hours late getting into Brisbane, Australia. The height of the swells has dictated that he slow our speed considerably. At this moment huge sprays of heavy white foam are hitting our stateroom window as the ship plows forward.

The koala bear is a small bear found only in Australia. It can reach up to two feet in height and weight up to thirty pounds. Easily recognizable by their size, small eyes, prominent beak like nose and tufted ears, the koala bear has soft gray fur and no tail except for a short rounded stump. In the mouth of a koala are pouches which are used

to store food. It moves slowly and spends much of the day sleeping.

The koala lives primarily in a tree but when it climbs down occasionally, this is usually done so that the koala can lick the earth, which aids the koala in digestion of its food. It will usually eat twelve different species of gum (Eucalyptus) trees. They are vegetarians.

Until less than one thousand years ago, there were millions of koalas in Australia. Now only thousands remain. In the years between 1887-89 and again in the years of 1900-1903, there was great slaughtering of the koala for sport, primarily because it was an easy target and because of the demand of it’s fur.

Australia is very susceptible to forest fires. During these fires, the koala is at risk. As the fire not only destroys the slow moving koala, but destroys it’s tree home and food source. Even though the koala is today being protected, the population has decreased rapidly and will take many years for that populations to return to prior levels.

Trivia Question #4: Who is the only American to have two automobiles named after him?

Tuesday, January 20, 2004 – Brisbane, Australia

Because of yesterday’s weather and high seas which continued into the night (thirty to forty foot swells) we are very late getting into Brisbane. Probably won’t be tied up at the pier until 1:00 p.m.

Our tour to the local winery region has been cancelled as it would have taken most of the day. The ship must leave the port by 5:00 p.m. There are two other tours that are available but those entail more animals, sheep shearing, etc., and I’ve had enough animals for a while. Think we’ll hire a taxi and see if we can do a quick overview of Brisbane and then wander on our own for a bit.

Dinner last night was a dangerous affair. Even though the dining room is at the very bottom deck of passenger decks and should be the most stable spot on the ship, we had spilled glasses of wine, water, and cups of coffee and tea sloshing over. Going back to the room after dinner, I just removed my shoes and walked barefooted, as it was easier navigating the rocking and rolling ship.

Brisbane, Australia, located on the Brisbane River is much better protected than the original settlement at Redcliffe Point, Brisbane, but still not immune to nature’s occasional ravages. The last disaster struck in January 1974 when Cyclone Wanda brought flooding. More than fourteen thousand homes were evacuated, the Centenary Bridge at Jindalee was damaged by a runaway gravel barge, and air, road and rail connections were severed.

The colonial state developed quickly. When land was cleared and drained of resources, homesteaders simply moved to a new parcel and repeated the scourge. Aborigine residents were shocked. According to their culture, land (which belonged to God) was to be respected and used wisely. Tensions built over time and occasionally erupted into violence. The government established a group of displaced Aborigines as the Native Mounted Police Unit. The expert trackers even attacked their own people and unleashed shocking violence. As appalling were settlers-tribesmen disputes. Some settlers hunted Aborigine people.

When gold was discovered, the flow of immigrants increased. The Palmer River Gold Rush began in 1873. Clever entrepreneurs built businesses on exploitation of fortune-seekers. The climate was considered too hot for Europeans, so Asian laborers were “hired” for farm work. Known as Kanakas, they were brought from nearby islands and from as far away as India. They were paid very little.

The contemporary city is a sparkling blend of new and old. The center has grown and suburbs line the riverbanks in both directions. Ferries connect the north and south banks. The city center is compact and can easily be explored on foot. Watch for traffic though! Brisbane is Australia’s fourth largest city.

Answer to Trivia #4: Ransome E. Oldsmobile – the REO and the Oldsmobile.

Wednesday, January 21, 2004 – At Sea

We had a bid of excitement yesterday when we returned to the ship after a trip into Brisbane. But first, our trip into Brisbane . . . Adolfo saw that on the map was a designation for a Maritime Museum. He had to go see it, even though it was way off the beaten path and far away from where the shuttle dropped us. So instead of getting to shop in Brisbane I followed the Lord and Master to the Maritime Museum. On foot we crossed Queen Victoria Bridge and walked along the quay adjacent to Griffiths University. It’s a beautiful campus with very modern, iron arbor structures over which lush, purple bougaineville blooms in profusion. Along the shore of the Brisbane River grow all colors of that plant – white, orange, red, purple and a lovely pale salmon pink. Lush plumeria trees, hibiscus, bird of paradise, all loaded with blossoms add to the color and sweet scent in the air.

After about one and a half miles we arrived at the Maritime Museum. Adolfo had a really good time looking at beautifully executed scale models of ships throughout maritime history. I walked gingerly, nursing sore feet (hadn’t planned on a forced march!). We were particularly excited to see a photograph of the Jeremiah O’Brien, one of the last liberty ships afloat in its permanent berth in San Francisco. This museum is privately owned. Its docents are volunteer. Adjacent to the museum on the shore of the river floats the HMAS Diamantina, a frigate that saw little action at the end of the WWII, but was the boat on which some Japanese signed surrender papers for nearby islands. The Diamantina is beautifully kept with all original fittings and furnishings. The volunteers aboard are delighted to talk about her with great affection and make all visitors very welcome.

Leaving the museum we crossed another bridge, pedestrians only, over the Brisbane River on the way back to our shuttle pickup and walked an additional mile and a half. Poor Feet!

Now for the excitement . . . we entered our stateroom and spotted a huge battery operated drill on the windowsill. Oh my, the window! Couldn’t see out of it at all, as it was totally shattered! There was not a square inch of viewing on the total area of our four by five foot window. Suddenly, the room swarmed with carpenters as they removed screws securing the brass trim. Then came the scraping off of the old seal, then the attempt to remove the shattered glass - to no avail. Finally, from pierside, one worker with a rubber tipped ladder simply smashed the window into the room. Had they smashed it outward and one itty bitty piece of glass had fallen into the seawater, Seabourn could have been fined thousands of dollars for polluting the local waters. So into our room came the glass. It looked like we’d hit an iceberg and the broken glass was bits of the berg all over our room.

It was getting close to the time we would normally have been showering and changing for the evening. Seabourn is quite wonderful in its care of passengers. Before we could even inquire, we were given keys to an unoccupied stateroom for our use so we could be dressed in time for the evening. Meanwhile, Adolfo took photos inside and out. As passengers returned to the ship, everyone stopped outside and looked at the mess, then came on down our hall and looked at the mess from the inside. Really felt that we should have been serving champagne!

No one could explain what had happened to our window. Perhaps the storm we’d sailed through the day before had weakened it. Perhaps the power washing on the outside of the ship that day had caused it. All we know for certain is that at about 2:00 p.m., our neighbor passenger heard a loud noise but couldn’t identify it.

Adolfo has gone around the ship telling everyone that I threw a chair at him, missed him and got the window!

We are now sailing through a perfect day. Blue skies, temperate climate though slightly warm and very calm seas. We are due to arrive at Sydney tomorrow around noon.

The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of the world’s four oceans, covering more than one third of the Earth’s surface and containing more than half of its free water. It is sometimes divided into two nominal sections: the part north of the equator is called the North Pacific; the part south of the equator, the South Pacific. The name “Pacific”, means peaceful and was given to it by the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan in 1520.

The Pacific Ocean is bounded on the east by the North and South American continents; on the north by the Bering Strait; on the west by Asia, the Malay Archipelago and Australia; and on the south by Antarctica. In the southeast it is arbitrarily divided from the Atlantic Ocean by the Drake Passage along 68 degrees west longitude; in the southwest, its separation from the Indian Ocean is not officially designated. Apart from the marginal seas along its irregular western rim, it has an area of about 64 square million square miles, substantially larger than the entire land surface of the globe. Its maximum length is about 9,600 miles from the Bering Strait to Antarctica and its greatest width is about 11,000 miles from Panama to the Malay Peninsula. Its average depth is 14,049 feet. The greatest known depth in any of the world’s oceans is 36,198 feet in the Mariana Trench off Guam.

Trivia Question #5: Name the seven dwarves?

Thursday, January 22, 2004 – Sydney, Australia

Entering Sydney Harbor was quite exciting. We had a beautiful day, quite warm, hardly a cloud in the sky. The harbor at Sydney is the largest natural harbor in the world. All passengers were out on deck for the journey to our docking, just across from the world famous Sydney Opera House. It was quite a sight and even more, when one realized that the architect for the opera house got his inspiration from orange peels! How silly. One would think that even if that were true, he’d not admit it! Something that beautiful should have a more romantic beginning!

The closer we got to our mooring, the higher the temperatures rose. Adolfo and I’d decided that there were two things on the schedule for the day, or at least the afternoon which was all that was left of the day. We had to tour the opera house and we had to find a stitchery store. When I’d packed, although I’d taken a tapestry for baby Joseph’s Christmas stocking, I’d left most of the threads back home. Don’t know how I did that, but knowing that I’d never again in 2004 have this block of time to work on it I opted to get more supplies. So we started toward the opera house and Adolfo changed his mind and thought that we should get my supplies first. After reversing direction, we finally found our quarry and tried to match colors and textures to the stocking I’d completed for Sofia. By that time I was exhausted, my feet were betraying me and I was too hot for words. Half way back toward the opera house, I headed for the ship and Adolfo went to the opera house solo. Back at the ship I found an empty laundry room and accomplished quite a lot, did some needlepoint and felt refreshed in the air-conditioned stateroom.

That evening we were scheduled for a wonderful barbecue on deck, with aboriginal entertainment to follow dinner. We arrived at 6:30 for cocktails and at about 7:30 began gathering the first course of our dinner at the sumptuous buffet. The skies were darkening, not just because of the hour, but because of the most ominous clouds we’d ever seen. Then we started to hear rumbles. The rumbles not only got louder, but we began to see lightening flashes, and then lightening forks were spotted coming earthward. Quite exciting, until just as we picked up our entrée, the largest rain drops we’d ever seen began pelting us. Within minutes, the decks were awash, all food was ruined, the pastry table was flooded and the beautiful and fancy shaped, freshly baked breads were totally soggy – such a waste. Beautiful linen tablecloths hung soggily from each table, beautiful and as yet unused crystal wine glasses filled with rainwater and everything was a general sodden mess. From just under cover we watched the staff dismantle tables, bring out large trashcans lined with heavy-duty plastic bags and dump tons of food. They’d worked so hard to give us a beautiful night on deck and now were throwing everything away. Many people who’d barely begun their dinner left the deck and went down to the main dining room to be fed there. I’d had enough food, so went back to the room to dry off. I’d planned to go to the aboriginal show later which location had been changed from outside to the indoor theater. But sleep overtook me and I had an early night.

The Sydney Opera House must be one of the most recognizable images of the modern world, right up there with the Eiffel Tower and the Empire State Building and one of the most photographed. It is situated on Bennelong Point which reaches out into the harbor. The skyline of the Sydney Harbor Bridge, the blue water of the harbor and the Opera House, viewed from a ferry, an incoming liner, or from the air, is dramatic and unforgettable. It is ironic that this Australian architectural icon was designed by Danish architect, Jorn Utzon.

· Opened by Queen Elizabeth II on October 20, 1973.

· Presented, as its first performance, the Australian Opera’s production of “War and Peace” by Prokofiev.

· Cost $AU 102,000,000 build. (Approximately $80,000,000 American)

· Conducts three thousand events each year.

· Provides guided tours to 200,000 people each year.

· Has an annual audience of two million for its performances.

· Includes one thousand rooms.

· Is 185 meters long and 120 meters wide.

· Has 2194 pre-case concrete sections as its roof.

· Has roof sections weighing up to fifteen tons.

· Has roof sections held together by 350 kms of tensioned steel cable.

· Roof has over one million tiles.

· Uses 6225 square meters of glass and 645 kilometers of electric cable.

(Ask Peter Gear to convert meters and kilometers into American weights and measures!!!!)

It is rumored that the architect was inspired to design his notable roof line by orange peels!

Answer to Trivia #5: Happy, Grumpy, Doc, Sneezey, Bashful, Sleepy, Dopey.

Friday, January 23, 2004 – Sydney, Australia (Blue Mountains)

This morning we were up early and out pier-side by 8:00 a.m. Scheduled for a trip to the Blue Mountains we met our guide Rob, a textbook Aussie complete with vocabulary, accent and hat. Our vehicle was an Oka, an Australian manufactured four-wheel drive, described by our guide as “a Hummer on steroids”. We were a small group, thirteen in all between two vehicles. The trip would take us a total of one hundred eighty miles, through canyons, over mountains, into forests and across rivers. We’d visit a habitat for indigenous animals, lunch in a botanical garden, learn to throw a boomerang, walk through a fern laden forest, and hear the songs and jokes of the locals from our guide, Rob.

We stopped at Echo Point on our way back to Sydney. Huge vistas awaited us, much like being on the rim of the Grand Canyon, except for the fact that everything before us was very heavily forested. After a rain, there was a fine mist rising from the forest below us - very picturesque. To our left at the vista point there rose three very craggy rocks, a reddish sandstone, known as The Three Sisters. After leaving the vista point, we drove to a large field and were shown how to throw a boomerang. After two rather pathetic tries my third was a success, as I got the boomerang to arc to the left and begin a slight return toward me. Must have looked really dorky though, because none of the other women were willing to try the throw.

It was a most enjoyable day, however it lasted ten hours. Tonight we are really spent. I talked Adolfo into room service and he agreed providing I would join him at the bar for cocktails beforehand. So we set off in our grubby clothing for drinks and chats with a few new acquaintances. Then back to our room and are now just finished with dinner, which we were served in three separate stages so that nothing would be the incorrect temperature for our palates. I was so hungry it really wouldn’t have mattered! We are truly being spoiled.

The Seabourn Spirit still floats pier-side in Sydney. A fair amount of passengers have gone to opening night at the Sydney Opera House to enjoy Richard Wagner’s, The Flying Dutchman. By the time we thought about it, tickets were sold out. Adolfo was really delighted that he wouldn’t have to spend tons of money to sleep through yet another opera.

As soon as everyone is back aboard the ship somewhere around midnight, we will depart Sydney for Nelson, New Zealand. I believe we will have nearly three days at sea. There’s lots of grumbling going on among the passengers as they speculate just how rough the crossing will be through the Tasman Sea. I’m hoping for the best. Have my pills at the ready.

Sydney is the capital city of the state of New South Wales in Australia and Australia’s largest and oldest city. With a population of approximately four million, it is the financial and trade center of Australia. It is also a significant tourist destination and is regularly declared to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Sydney was the host of the 2000 Summer Olympics.

The area around Sydney was hom isi Aboriginal tribes since 40,000 years ago or more. Although urbanization has destroyed most evidence of these settlements, there are still rock carvings in several locations. European interest arose with the sighting of Botany Bay (now a southern suburb of Sydney) in 1770 by Captain James Cook. Under instruction from the British government, a convict settlement was founded by Arthur Phillip in 1788. Phillip originally landed at Botany Bay, but found it unsatisfactory. After a brief sail north, Phillip landed at Sydney Cove on Port Jackson, the proper name for Sydney Harbor.

The city’s most famous landmarks are the Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House, both of which are located on Sydney Harbor. Sydney’s principal river is the Parramatta River which enters Sydney Harbor from the wedst. While the harbor is famous for its racing yachts, the Boxing Day start of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and eighteen foot skiffs, the river is used for dinghy sailing and rowing as well as recreational boating, racing small yachts, recreational fishing, and occasional Dragon Boat racing. Another famous landmark is the Centerpoint Tower (also known as Sydney Tower or the AMP Tower) which is the second tallest free standing tower in the Southern Hemisphere. Darling Harbor is also a popular tourist attraction. Sydney also has an interesting subway system, one of only two in the country (Melbourne has the other). The Sydney Cricket Ground which retains several beautiful 1920’s era grandstands, hosts several international cricket matches and the Sydney Swans football team.

Trivia Question #6: How many years was Robinson Crusoe marooned on an island?

Saturday, January 24, 2004 – Crossing the Tasman Sea

We awoke this morning out in the Tasman Sea. We are very lucky so far as the seas are reasonably calm. At breakfast someone mentioned that one of the Princess ships one week ago faced forty foot swells on this sea. Good Lord! We had just one half of that a few days ago and I was quite sick. If we face forty-foot swells, request that I be made unconscious until it’s over!

This morning lady luck was with me as I found both washing machines vacant in the ship laundry. For two hundred eight passengers, there are only two self-service washing machines and two dryers. One’s timing must be just perfect. Of course, there is also the ship’s laundry service which has a two day turn around time, and is so expensive - $1.50 for a hankie, $5 for a polo shirt, etc. They even iron one’s underwear!

Poseidon, founded in Greek mythology, is known as the god of the sea, the son of the Titans Cronus and Rhea, and the brother of Zeus and Hades. Poseidon was the husband of Amphitrite, one of the Nereids, by whom he had a son, Triton. Poseidon had numerous other love affairs, especially with the nymphs of springs and fountains and was the father of several children famed for their wildness and cruelty, among them the giant Orion and the Cyclops Polyphemus. Poseidon and the Gorgon Medusa were the parents of Pegasus, the famous winged horse.

Poseidon plays a prominent part in numerous ancient myths and legends. He contended unsuccessfully with Athena, goddess of wisdom, for the control of Athens. When he and Apollo, god of the sun, were cheated of their promised wages after having helped Laomedon, King of Troy, build the walls of that city, Poseidon’s revenge against Troy knew no bounds. He sent a terrible sea monster to ravage the land and during the Trojan War he helped the Greeks.

In art, Poseidon is represented as a bearded and majestic figure, holding a trident and often accompanied by a dolphin. Every two years the isthmian Games, featuring horse and chariot racers, were held in his honor at Corinth. The Romans identified Poseidon with their god of the sea, Neptune.

Answer to Trivia #6: Twenty-four years.

Sunday, January 25, 2004 – Crossing the Tasman Sea

The Tasman Sea is really giving us all a wonderful gift. The seas are calm, the weather mild. Played a bit of trivia, played a little losing Blackjack in the casino, enjoyed a dinner with Louellen and Cesare Siepi.

One of the trivla questions asked a few days ago was - What continent appears on a can of Budweiser beer? The answer was Australia. However, yesterday Adolfo checked out a can of Budweiser at the Sky Bar. He couldn’t find Australia anywhere on it – couldn’t find any other continent on the can either!

The Pacific Ocean is the oldest of the existing ocean basins, its oldest rocks having been dated at about 200 million years. The major features of the basin and rim have been shaped by the phenomena associated with plate tectonics. The coastal shelf, which extends to depths of about 600 feet is narrow along North and South America but is relatively wide along Asia and Australia. The East Pacific Rise, a mid-ocean ridge system, extends about 5,400 miles from the Gulf of California to a point about 2,235 miles west of the southern tip of South America and rises an average of about 7,000 feet above the ocean floor. Along the East Pacific Rise molten rock upwells from the Earth’s mantle, adding crust to the plates on both sides of the rise. These plates, which are huge segments of the Earth’s surface, are thus forces apart, causing them to collide with the continental plates adjacent to their outer edges. Under this tremendous pressure, the continental plates fold into mountains and the oceanic plates buckle downwards, forming deep trenches called subduction zones, from which crust is carried back into the mantle. The stresses at the areas of folding and subduction are responsible for the earthquakes and volcanoes that give the rim of the Pacific basin the name “ring of fire”. The driving forces for ocean currents are the Earth’s rotation, wind friction at the surface of the water and variations in seawater density due to differences in temperature and salinity. The interaction between wind and current has a major effect on climate and is studied for long-range weather prediction and for sea travel.

Trivia Question #7: How many days did Pope Stephen I serve?

Monday, January 26, 2004 – Crossing the Tasman Sea

Today is the last of three full days out on the Tasman Sea. Although the weather is overcast this morning, the seas are like glass. We have the final round of trivia at noon today. This afternoon there’s a presentation on opals and a blackjack tournament in the casino. Otherwise, it’ll be needlepointing and listening to my book on the IPOD.

Today is Australia Day which commemorates the arrival of Captain Arthur Phillip and the First Fleet at Port Jackson, later renamed Sydney Cove, on January 26,1788 after leaving England on May 13, 1787. On the day of his arrival, Captain Arthur Phillip proclaimed the area to be a British possession, naming it New South Wales. This landing started the first permanent European settlement in Australia. The fleet consisted o two warships, the Sirius and the Supply, and nine merchantment. There are said to have been 564 male and 192 female convicts, 450 crew with civil and military personnel appointed to official duties, 28 wives and 30 children, of whom 15 belonged to the convicts.

Australia Day is a holiday throughout Australia. Traditionally the celebrations include flag raising and commemorative events, a twenty-one gun salute, regattas and parades. More recently, the event has been marked by naturalization and cvitizenship ceremonies and the presentation of Australia Day Citizen and Young Citizen Awards. There are also concerts, theatrical productions, fireworks and a variety of other events including a carnival in Canberra.

Tuesday, January 27, 2004 – Nelson, New Zealand

After three and a half days in the Tasman Sea (an unusually calm sail for these waters) we came into Nelson, New Zealand for a half-day stay.    Our travel agent had arranged for a private tour with Select Travel system.   There were eight of us from the ship, a driver and a guide.   Our first stop was at an overlook of the city of Nelson in a new housing development where the prices range from $150,000 to $250,000, NZ dollars.

A New Zealand dollar is equal to approximately $1.50 American.

Then on to WOW, or World of WearableArt, where the two main features are a collection of mint condition, antique cars.  Best of all, WOW houses a collection of costumes which could qualify as the best of modern art.   Once a year people come from all over the world to view the current fashions, modeled live.   What started as several hundred in the audience has grown to over seventeen thousand.    Gowns are made of all sorts of material, including a skirt of surgical gloves (very interesting and effective), mylar ribbon dresses, one whole costume made of an assortment of breads and if a person can think of the most outrageous material to be worn, one will probably find it at WOW.

There is also a section where artists design and sell one-of-a-kind scarves, jackets, and a variety of separates.   After an exhaustive search, I finally did not buy one thing.   Just knew that I’d kick myself as soon as I opened any purchase once aboard the ship.  For once I had my brain in gear. For ingenuity of texture and design, the apparel was truly memorable.  There were skirts with dancing ballerinas stenciled all over black wool.  Trousers were designed with an assortment of ruffles, fringe, or odd bits of fabric.   In many instances, it looked as though the artists were either blind or had designed and sewn the pieces in the dead of night without benefit of illumination!

After exhausting ourselves at WOW we proceeded to a glass blowing company – Hoglund Art Glass founded in 1982 by Swedish immigrants.   I shopped for a few things in their showroom.   Found a beautiful small but weighted perfume bottle to add to our knickknack table at home, some really cute black and white penguins which will make good gifts, and best of all, bought four necklaces for the girls (me included!), each one different, each a chunk of hand blown, multi-colored or clear glass on a sterling silver wire.   One I bought for myself is clear crystal, hardly original, but it struck my fancy.

We were invited to dine with Eric and Jean Cass from England.   We renewed an old acquaintance with them from when we’d traveled to the British Isles and the Baltic several years ago.   On that trip at our departure from St. Petersburg, the Casses had arranged an on-deck dinner for twelve with a menu from one of the inaugural cruises of the Seabourn ships.   While we’d not had particularly wonderful weather on that trip, the night we left St. Petersburg the weather was still and balmy, the waters a sort of yellow, lavender mirror that went right into the mirrored sky.   The horizon was nearly indistinguishable.   That evening is perhaps the most memorable of all of our cruises.    The Casses must have close to two thousand accumulated days aboard Seabourn and because of their exalted stature with the company can arrange just about anything!  He’s the inventor of the beeper.

New Zealand is an island nation in the South Pacific Ocean, located south of the equator in the Southern Hemisphere and marking the eastern boundary of the Tasman Sea, a portion of the Pacific Ocean that separates New Zealand and the nearest large landmass, Australia, by a distance of about 1,000 miles.  New Zealand includes two large islands that constitute most of its landmass, as well as numerous small islands.  New Zealand administers two overseas territories, Tokelau and Ross Dependency (in Antarctica).  The self-governing entities of Niue and the Cook Islands are in free association with New Zealand which handles their foreign affairs and defense as requested.

New Zealand is known for its scenic landscapes of snowcapped mountains and rolling green pastures.  Its image as a farming outpost stems from the traditional importance of agriculture to the economy as well as the low population density in most areas.   However, the majority of New Zealanders live in urban areas and many now earn a living in service industries such as tourism.  The capital of New Zealand is Wellington.   The largest and most cosmopolitan city is Auckland.

Wednesday, January 28, 2004 – Ship’s Cove, New Zealand

Today we are cruising and will anchor off Ship’s Cove for the afternoon.  Passengers who wish will be tendered ashore for a walk along the beach, a view of Captain Cook’s monument and a glimpse of a waterfall.   Have decided that this afternoon will once again be a productive time for my needlepoint Christmas stocking for little Joseph.    Adolfo will go ashore and bring back pictures.

Now for a bit of gossip!   There are three people traveling on the cruise who are the constant talk of all other passengers.   They’ve been on Seabourn cruises quite a few times and for those who’ve known them since 1972 on other sailing vessels, the situation described hereafter has been status quo since that time.   While the speculation is far reaching we got the true story from the Casses last evening.    The English gentleman (I use the term “gentleman” rather loosely) is traveling with his wife (English) and his mistress (sounds German when she speaks).  

Although they have three separate rooms, the women’s are adjacent  that open onto each other.  They seem the best of friends.  The three of them are well into their sixties, decent enough in appearance and most interesting to observe behind one’s sunglasses.    The man wears the tiniest of bikinis with rather pronounced striping down the front center portion and has more than a bit of a paunch so that often when he’s walking around, only the striped part is visible.  The wife wears fairly conservative bikinis but the “other” wears the briefest, only partially covered over by the gaudiest, sparkly, but very expensive cover-ups.   On some days, instead of her bathing suit bikini top, she takes a sheer chiffon scarf and ties it around her upper portions so her upper anatomy is completely visible through the gossamer fabric.  She often walks around the deck in this state without any other clothing on (other than her bikini bottom), becoming the cynosure of anyone in view.  I’ve become certain that’s her mission!   The husband’s behavior is very loud and crass.  He’s constantly calling attention to himself and the little group. He acts like a pasha complete with harem.   On good weather days the three are always in a corner of the deck getting lots of sun.

I think the best comment was heard last night when someone observed:  “Don’t know how the wife has done it all these years.   She should have killed him long ago.” - and that came from a Brit.

Many others have offered:  “Whatever makes you happy”.   GAG!   Am completely and totally judgmental on this one and find it disgusting!  Can’t believe the wife would put up with this for more than thirty years.

Tonight we were invited to the table of Bob Tomkinson, a guest lecturer aboard our ship, one whom Adolfo finds most enjoyable, except for his interjections of personal international political leanings.   However, the table was fun – made up of four Americans, two Brits, one Aussie and two Kiwis.   I was seated between an American gentlemen traveling alone, and a Kiwi whose wife was Adolfo’s table partner.    We all had a really wonderful time.    Not a stuffy moment at the table – unusual!

Marlborough Sounds Maritime Park is one of New Zealand’s prettiest regions.   The “top end” of the South Island, the area is a contrivance of land spits and small peninsulas that unify in a breathtaking labyrinth of fjord-like channels and inlets.   During the last Ice Age, the sounds were dry, glacially carved valleys, but when the ice melted and sea levels rose, the gorges were flooded.  The passages are not true fjords – freshwater streams do not feed them.   The word “sound” derives from “sund” (Old English) and means “sea”.  A sound is typically wider than a channel and normally, at least one boundary is an island.   Marlborough’s main sounds are Queen Charlotte (leads to Picton) and Pelorus, both branches of Cook Strait.

Dutch Explorer Abel Tasman was the first European to navigate the Marlborouh Sounds   Although he did not venture as far as Queen Charlotte Sound, he did land at D’Urville Island in 1642.   He was not at all impressed with the South Island, especially after members of his crew were eaten.   He sailed quickly onward believing he had landed on a hostile South American island.   English explorer Captains James Cook landed with his HMS Endeavour in January 2770 and lingered to explore the region.   During the next decade, he returned several times to chart unexplored territory.  His careful logging and reports of friendly tribes countered the menacing prior reputation.

Whalers, loggers and gold miners exploited the region at various times, so the government set it aside as parkland.  Laced with “walking tracks” (hiking trails),, several areas can be hiked in less than an hour.  Others involve treks of several days.   One of the longest, Queen Charlotte Walkway, lines the northern shores of the sound and leads to Resolution Bay and Cook Monument, the marker at Ship Cove that honors the benevolent and determined explorer.

Ship’s Cove has no significance other than that of Captain Cook’s sojourn and is in the northern terminus of Queen Charlotte Walkway, which links to the village of Anakiwa.   The track leads from the pier area up the steep wooded slope over a pass to Resolution Bay.   The moderately strenuous walk traverses three miles and takes a few hours.   There are also several side routes that lead to waterfalls and the pretty Bay of Many Coves.

Thursday, January 29, 2024 - Kaikoura, New Zealand

Today we had a wonderful day going off on a catamaran to view whales and dolphins.   We saw both – dolphins dodging in and around the catamaran and four sperm whales.

Got pictures of two of the whales sending spume into the sky and also sounding with flukes waving to us as they dove to the bottom.

Kaikoura is famous for its delicate crayfish, or lobster.   At this stop, Seabourn guests had the option to do a flyover of the countryside where the “Lord of the Rings” was filmed at a mere $399 person.   Total tour time was two hours.    Besides not being a fan of getting on helicopters at some of these stops, we thought the tab was a bit pricey – two of us would have cost $800!!!   YIKES!

It was really a wonderful day, made more so by the fact that our photos turned out quite well.

Am backtracking a bit here because I’ve been remiss with keeping up my daily journal.   During these last few days we had another terribly rough eight hours at sea.   While I fought it for about three hours I finally succumbed and announced that I couldn’t possibly face showering and getting ready while it seemed I was perched on the back of a bucking bronco!    Adolfo tried to talk me out of my precarious stance but he finally acquiesced and decided to join me.   We had a light room service meal at 5:00 p.m. and by 6:30 p.m., after a pill, I was sound asleep.   We were told later that the seas calmed by 10:00 p.m., but I never knew.   Slept peacefully, drugged, until 12:30 a.m., read for about one hour and then slept again until 6:30 a.m.    The next couple of days seemed to be recovery times for me.  It just knocks me for a loop when I get seasick!   

Many small and widely scattered islands are also included in the territory of New Zealand.   Some are tiny and uninhabited.   An island is designated by the smallest rockiest protrusion out of the water that has a plant growing on it!   Of the inhabited islands, Stewart Island is the largest and nearest, located about twenty miles off the southern shore of the South Island.   Campbell Island lies three hundred seventy five miles farther south and the Chatham Islands are about five hundred thirty miles east of the South Island.   Raoul Island, the largest of the Kermadec Islands, lies more than six hundred miles northeast of the North Island.

The South Island contains the highest point in New Zealand, Mount Cook (in Maori, Aorangi) reaching a height of 12,316 feet in the central Southern Alps.   Another eighteen mountains in the chain rise above 10,000 feet.   The Southern Alps extend about 300 miles, almost the entire length of the South Island.   The western side of the chain rises at the coast with a narrow strip of coastline between mountains and sea.   The eastern side of the chain descends to a region of rolling hills and a narrow strip of coastline between mountains and sea.

Friday, January 30, 2004 – Akaroa, New Zealand

Today we were picked up at our anchored ship by a catamaran that took us through the huge bay of Akaroa.  As we viewed the smallest penguins (barely a foot long), cormorants, geese, seals, all kinds of other birds and ducks, the sun teased us but never shone.   Instead we were spritzed most of the day by menacing clouds.   Even in the rain, the wildlife of the region and the beautiful cliffs eroded by the sea made for wonderful viewing and exceptional photographs.

After the bay cruise, we walked the quaint old town (all five blocks!) and viewed the wooden houses originally built when the town of Akaroa was established.  Many of the little bungalows now function as funky bed and breakfast establishments.

This country is truly exquisite.   The Maori’s believe that God created New Zealand first, that it is paradise on earth.   Then He went on to create the rest of the earth, giving each place something special, but not completely special!    There is nothing poisonous or harmful in the environment of New Zealand.   If one gets lost in the “bush”, fear not.   No threatening snakes, no poisonous bugs and no predators against mankind inhabit New Zealand.   One can even be perfectly safe walking barefoot through the bush.

The names of towns and streets roll off the tongue quite musically, as one pronounces every vowel.   I really like to say the names aloud even though I haven’t the faintest clue what in the world it all means.

Most Maori oral history has always maintained the arrival here from the Polynesian Islands to be around a thousand years ago in ancestral voyaging canoes.  Leaving the place called Hawaiki-nui, Hawaiki-roa, Hawaiki-pamamao (most likely the Marquesas, Southern Cook Islands, Society and Pitcairn Islands).   Maori ancestors trod the sea trails set by the earlier seafarers and explorers sch as Toi, Whatonga, Ngahue and Kupe of Raiatea.

Akaroa, Banks Peninsula juts out between Canterbury Bight and Pegasus Bay.  Home to some of the best grazing land in the country, the fertile volcanic peninsula features beautiful coastline and a quaint sentimental atmosphere reminiscent of earlier days.    French settlers selected Akaroa in the mid 17th century as a prime site for a new colony.  To their disappointment, the colonists arrived only to find that the British Crown had already claimed the territory.   Too far from home to turn back they begrudgingly stayed as British subjects.

Saturday, January 31, 2004 – Lyttleton / Christchurch, New Zealand

Another day of threatening weather, as the ship docked at Lyttleton and we debarked the ship for a motorcoach that would take us over the mountain to Christchurch and a tour of the city with a couple of side events.

Our first stop was at a local museum, connected to the Botanical Gardens.   The rain had begun in earnest and I wasn’t dressed for it.   Must have left my addled brain back on the ship with my raincoat.    So Adolfo trundled off to take photos of the gardens and I did a quick run through of the Maori exhibits in the museum, and then spent the remainder of the time shopping in their gift shop.    Tons of stuff was on sale so we purchased wonderful Kiwi baseball hats for the men in our family and some great linen tea towels which were such a good buy that I bought a dozen!   Thought they’d be easy to pack on the way home.   Also bought a little folding umbrella so I wouldn’t be totally soaked.  

After Adolfo did his tour of the museum exhibits it was time for the group to go punting on the Avon in open gondolas.   I opted out and instead went to a huge building across the street from the museum which houses small shops.   Poked around in there while Adolfo and some of the others in our group went punting on the River Avon.    Adolfo had a great time, watching youngsters on the river not getting wet enough from the rain, deciding to have water fights from their small boats.   It was all quite entertaining for him until he had to get out of the gondola.   He sat so low that he couldn’t get up!    Had to be tugged out of the boat by three men!!!

Then we got onto an antique tram which took us around the center of town, crisscrossing over the River Avon every block or so, viewing historical buildings, the university and a wonderful array of parks.   Even with the dreary skies and the rain dampening us the flowers bloomed with gusto and gave lots of sparkle to the day.

Then we were headed back to the ship.    As we prepared for the hour ride over the mountain and settled down in the motorcoach, we entered a tunnel that cut right through the mountain we’d come over earlier.  We were back at the ship within ten minutes!   That was a nice surprise.

Christchurch is the South Island’s largest city.  Retaining the nation’s traditional character, the Garden City is known as one of New Zealand’s most handsome cities.   Filled with public parks and private gardens, the town center is reserved for pedestrians.   Old gothic style buildings dominate the skyline.  The gently meandering Avon River bubbles through Hagley Park and the heart of downtown.  Lined with walkways, it adds a nostalgic atmosphere.   Punts ply the river offering rides to the romantically inclined.

Sunday, February 1, 2004 – Dunedin, New Zealand

Today was a very special day.   We were slated for a tour out at Otago Peninsula to view more wildlife and in particular, the Royal Albatross.   The weather certainly did not cooperate although the cold wind and sleeting rain made for a wonderful adventure.    We traveled by coach out to Otago Peninsula to a private wildlife preserve.   First, we heard a lecture at the visitors’ center where in addition,  all kinds of photos and movies were available to us with information on the Royal Albatross.   These birds are huge with wingspans on an average of eleven feet.   They fly for months at a time, thousands of miles.   One bird that they’ve been tracking at this facility is known as “Grandma”.  She’s laid eggs and born young for over fifty years!    When last seen three years ago her age was approximated at over sixty years.   For the most part these birds are faithful to their partners, until one dies or disappears.  Because she’s not been seen in the last three years the naturalists at Otago Point fear that Grandma has gone on to her great reward.

A few years ago the naturalists at Otago began banding the birds and including a variety of GPS mechanism in the banding so that tracking the very long flights of these birds could be documented.   Later in this year that information should start being compiled.   Naturalists are very excited to see exactly where these birds go when they leave Otago, how long they are in the air from takeoff to landing and where a particular bird may have gone when it disappears from the colony at Otago.

After a wet and windy climb up the mountain to view the Armstrong disappearing gun (invented and installed prior to WWI) and into the protected watching room to view the nesting Albatross, we headed to a facility owned by the Reid family which is situate at the tip of this headland.  Amidst truly spectacular scenery, the world’s rarest penguins – the “yellow-eyed” Hoiho, little blue penguins, New Zealand fur seals and Spotted Shag seabirds all live in harmony and undisturbed.    We were given wet weather coats which had been used several times before us that day.   When previous tours had used them and discarded them after their jaunt out to the headlands, the coats were discarded in a pile so that the wet exterior of the coat under completely dampened the interior of the coat above.  (If this picture is not clear – sorry!)  However, I’d left a warm fleece pullover on the bus and would tough out the weather and have my warm dry garment to put on for the long bus ride back to the ship.

We boarded eight-wheel all terrain Argo vehicles and flew out on muddy tracks to the headlands.   Wind and cold rain continued to pelt us as we bounced and jounced on the rutty road holding on for our dear lives.   I had a front seat next to the driver, the owner’s son. Can’t remember ever being that cold and wet, but it was going to be worth it!   Even though wet and cold and the mist hanging over the area curbed our ability to view the grand vistas that must be breathtaking on a clear day, this jaunt will remain most memorable.

The Reid family has owned this land for over one hundred years and their private preserve is an affair of the heart.    They are so very strict with visitors on their property and the result is that we were treated to seeing these animals up close and personal but often through very carefully camouflaged peep holes, so as not to disturb the natural habitat of each animal.We found that the Reid family is not unlike many other New Zealanders in that their pride of country is not just something to talk about, but something to enhance and work and sacrifice to make New Zealand even better.   This family is awesome.   Mr. Reid spoke of his family’s endeavors in this habitat as an “affair of the heart”.   Indeed it was!

Taiaroa Head Albatross Colony is the only place in the world where the great Royal Albatross nests within easy access of people.   To ensure that the birds are not unduly disturbed, access to the colony is strictly controlled.    From the observation point the birds may be seen in comfort, but because of the topography, only some of the nest sights will be visible.   The albatrosses may be seen courting, sky-calling, feeding their chicks, waddling past the viewing center or soaring over the cliffs.

Dunedin, established at the Maori village of Otakou, is the second largest city on the South Island.   The new European city was named New Edinburgh, but was soon re-christened Dunedin, the old Celtic name for the beloved Scottish city.   Growth was assured when gold was discovered in 1861.  The city’s Victorian homes are accented with great Gothic Spires that reach ever heavenward throughout the city.   New Zealand’s only domestic whisky is distilled in town and the city has the nation’s only kilt maker.   Chocolate lovers will delight in knowing that there is a Cadbury’s Factory, but tours are no longer offered.  (Cadbury is owned by Philip Morris!)  Dunedin also has bagpipe bands, sheep farms and a large college.   

Monday, February 2, 2004 – Cruising through Dusky Fjord and Milford Sound, New Zealand

Today was another day of questionable weather.  The sun and clouds teased us while we sailed through Dusky Fjord.   Views and photo opportunities were okay, although on downloading the photos we were astounded to find that overcast, grey days often create some stupendous photos.

As we approached the entrance to Milford Sound, rain and mist made visibility poor but it did begin to clear as we reached the protected interior of the Sound.   Waterfalls abound in Milford Sound and because of the recent rains they were full and dramatic, falling in full, white veils to the sea below.   There is much green. The cliffs are heavily planted and lush.   As we reached the furthest point where the ship could enter and turned around for our trip back to the exit, the sun came through the clouds and there were rainbows everywhere to add to the already exotic viewing.    Passengers enjoyed a wonderful hour viewing Mother Nature at her best.    It was certainly reminiscent of the Norwegian fjords.   We have a wonderful photo of one of the crew, a lady from Norway, as she gazed longingly at the scenery.   We just knew that this place made her homesick.

NB:   A few days after our trip through Milford Sound we had word that one of the local tour boats into the Milford Sound had an accident (later proven to be sabotage) and a huge amount of oil had escaped from the vessel and spoiled much of what we’d seen earlier.   Someone on the boat rigged something so that salt water would pour into the area where oil was kept and the pressure would force the oil out into the sea.   How awful!

The Milford Sound is located on the west coast of New Zealand.  It is a long and deep valley that was created millions of years ago by the succession of glaciers.  The walls of the fjord can rise to over nine hundred fifty feet from the seafloor to the surface and can continue to rise to over almost five thousand feet above the Sound.  The first few feet of water in the fjord is freshwater from the annual snow melt from the mountains.  Below the layer of freshwater is salt water from the Tasman Sea.  In the waters of the Milford Sound one can find bottlenose dolphins, fur seals, spiny starfish, a variety of fish, anemones, various colors of sponges, and a rare black coral that is unique to the area, in addition to many other organisms.   The Milford Sound offers a host of recreational activities to tourists.  Diving, kayaking and scenic cruises are a few popular activities within the Sound.

Tuesday, February 3, 2004 – Cruising the South Island Coast toward Wellington, New Zealand

Wednesday, February 4, 2004 – Wellington, New Zealand – Adolfo’s Birthday

The port of Wellington is quite beautiful and really well located in relation to the main part of city.  Passengers can leave the ship and walk to shops and museums within minutes.     It’s wonderful when we don’t have to get on a shuttle bus and wait for the time to return later in the day.   My mission this morning was to get to an internet café and clean up my email accounts on AOL and Comcast.   Completed the task in just one hour.   I had over four hundred emails - so much of it plain old junk - especially on the AOL account.   Have been phasing this account out during the last three months and will close it when I return home.   My one hour at the internet store cost just $4 NZ or $3 American.   Aboard ship it is $1 per minute and the service is so outrageously inept.   I bought sixty minutes while aboard ship, tried on four separate days to get through to my email and send notes home.   Would get all information typed and then hit send.  Some emails got through but the majority failed or just arrived with the address and no message contained therein.    Have asked and been promised that I will have my money refunded.

Have inquired, inquired and inquired some more as to when email facilities would be improved aboard ship and over the years have been promised that next year “things will be different”!    HAH!   Now they tell me that they have a contract with someone to keep the current system, that although the individual staterooms are already wired for computers, the system can’t be implemented until the current contract expires.   Think this is just an excuse because the current system is such a cash cow for Seabourn.    All of us are disgruntled and demanding our money back.

In the afternoon, we toured Wilton’s Bush.   “Bush” is the Aussie and Kiwi word for forest.   This particular area was once stripped of much of the plantings, but Mr. Wilton dedicated himself to replenishing all that was removed and trying to get it back into its original pristine condition.   He succeeded.  Now all who come to Wellington have the opportunity to spend the day walking through paths in the forest and gardens which display all of the native plants of New Zealand.    The ferns of this country, particularly tree ferns are so beautiful they take one’s breath away.   There are over seventy different species of fern in New Zealand.   My favorite are the tree ferns, which are like living umbrellas, symmetrically formed at the top, as if God took a ruler for each frond, spaced it exactly equidistant from each other, then stopped it’s growth when each frond reached the precise length of all others on the plant.  I could have spent all day in that bush reveling in their beauty.

Then we went to a wildlife preserve, Karori Wildlife Sanctuary, where we were told we would see lots of local birds and animals.   This huge preserve has an eight foot fence around the entire many acres of forestation, a special fence designed to keep predators from getting inside the preserve.   In that way, birds can be safe and multiply, certain spiders that live in the ground and are usually food for rats will be safe.    Particularly, the possums of this country can’t get over the specially designed fence.    Also, just in case an intruder succeeds, Wilton’s Bush has specially trained dogs who patrol the forest and sniff out any unwanted inhabitants.

While the forest, lake and flowers in the preserve were fine to view.   Most of it paled after walking through Wilton’s Bush.   Further dulling the adventure was the fact that we walked and walked and never saw but a very few birds.    Don’t think the preserve is really up and running as yet.    By the time that we had to make a mad dash for the bus to get back to the ship, we were only half way through the walk and had to do a forced march to make it back in time.    This was really a shame because the walk back, through the floor of the forest, crisscrossing the river on beautiful wooden bridges was the most scenic part of the walk.   We had no time to enjoy it.    One of the women in our group wore a pedometer that day and told us that we’d walked a total of over four miles.   This was really too much for Adolfo whose knee was giving him fits on our return.   We had no time for a nap before meeting friends for dinner.   It was rush, rush, rush as we returned to the ship.  However, we knew we’d sleep well that night!

Today is Adolfo’s seventy-second birthday.   We’ve invited some fellow passengers we’ve known on previous cruises and some we’ve met this time to join us at a table for dinner.   They don’t know it’s A’s birthday. Remembered a previous year when we celebrated A’s birthday aboard ship that people brought presents and we found it awkward.   Jean and Eric Cass, Sandy and Arthur Levinson, Ray and Jean Winkler and Cynthia and Patrick Ford made up a wonderful and fun table for the celebration.   I had asked for Tiramisu for dessert.  A good and fattening time was enjoyed by all!

Wellington is located between a beautiful harbor and rolling green hills.   The city has excellent shopping, professional theatre, cafes and restaurants all close to untouched nature spots.    Wellington is only two kilometers wide so it can be explored easily on foot.   It is the arts and culture capital of New Zealand, but also offers much for nature lovers.  The Polynesian explorer, Kupe, is credited with the initial discovery of this beautiful harbor.   As a result, several places around the harbor bear his name.

Thursday, February 5, 2004 – Picton, New Zealand

“A Taste of Marborough” was in store for us today, as we toured the Marlborough wine district and took in two wineries, Montana Vineyards and another – the name now escapes me.   The wines of New Zealand were just “okay” for my palate, but what do I know?    I remember my Dad always saying that a good wine is a wine that you like.   .  None of these wines were memorable for me, except the reds they blended with Australian or Chilean grapes.   We found those to be quite tasty. 

Then the most interesting part of the day was a trip to Brooksdale.  Brooksdale is owned by the O’Connors, is their residence and a sort of mini zoo.   It’s a private property that the owners open to cruise ship tours.  They offer an afternoon tea featuring Mrs. O’Connor’s home made strawberry jam and clotted cream on freshly baked scones, hot tea and coffee.   

Mr. O’Connor was quite a character and told us his life story about owning so much of the land and selling it over the last few years because to farm six hundred acres was becoming just too much work for him as he advanced in age.  Several years ago when he sold the first parcel of land, the acres sold for $12,500, per acre.    Five years after that, part of that acreage was sold off by the new owner for $35,000 per acre – a lot of money to spend to grow grapes!

We have been blessed this trip with the company of Louellen and Cesare Siepe.  We’ve met them only briefly on an earlier cruise.   This time we’ve been able to spend quite a bit of time with them.    Cesare is a retired Metropolitan Opera star – an icon in the last generation of opera.   He’s now in his eighties, full of fun, and Italian, so what more could we want?!?!

We usually meet in The Club for drinks in the evenings and then go on to our appointed dinner plans.   A couple of times we’ve had dinner with them and consider ourselves very lucky as they don’t dine with anyone else.   Cesare has a throat problem in his advancing years which causes him to noisily clear his throat quite often.   He is embarrassed to be at a table of strangers when this happens, so they mostly eat alone.   However, I think our being of Italian descent has given us an inside track.

Whalers, loggers and gold miners exploited Marlborough Sounds at various times in recent history.  Because of this, the government finally set it aside as parkland.  The national preserve is laced with a series of walking tracks (hiking trails).  Some of the trails are pretty short and can be hiked in less than one hour, but others involve treks of several days.  

The inland Marlborough Region is a pleasant farming district.  Sheltered by the Richmond Mountains from threatening storms that would otherwise tumble in from the Tasman Sea, Marborough’s climate is blessed with plenty of sunshine.   A naturalist’s dream, it is also one of the New Zealand’s wine regions.   Trails cross forest, mountain and coastal terrain. 

The first glimpse most people have of the South Island is Queen Charlotte Sound as they approach on the ferry from Wellington.  The ride is popular, especially in the New Zealand summer and offers spectacular scenery along the narrowing inlet.  The fery terminus is in  the pretty town of Picton.   When Captain Cook made the same voyage nearly two and a half centuries ago, he found small Maori communities along the same shores.   A pair of binoculars may reveal remnants of the ancient sites.

Yachts bob in scenic Picton harbor.  The port was originally a Maori village and was Marlborough’s first capital before the administrative offices were relocated to Blenheim.  The importance of the sea is everywhere evident.  Even though the boat is not open to visitors, cross the bridge near the town wharf for a closer lok sat the old scow “Echo”.  Fashioned from sturdy kauri, the vessel is one of several evident symbols of the city’s maritime past.

Friday, February 6, 2004 – At Sea

Because of a problem with one of the four motors on the ship we will be skipping the port of Napier to go directly to Tauranga.   With only three engines, we would have been so late to Napier that all tours would have had to be cancelled, so we limp (unnoticeably) along to Tauranga for a full day there.

Further inland from Napier, is the world’s easternmost city of Gisborne.   It is the birthplace of Dame Kiri Te Kanaway, one of the world’s great sopranos.

 Many people visit the inland city with the longest name: TAUMATAWHAKATANGHIHANGAKOAUAUOTAMTEATURIPUKAKAPIKIMAUNGAHORONUKUPOKAIWHENUAKITANATAHU.    WOW!!!     It is the Maori phrase referring to the mythical Tamatea (aka “Land eater”) and how he serenaded a lover with his flute.

Saturday, February 7, 2004 – Tauranga, New Zealand

This is a very beautiful port in the Bay of Plenty.   We are a five-minute shuttle ride to the main part of the town and have decided not to go there but instead to discover the beach community that’s just a five minute walk from the ship.  We found the typical shops of any seaside resort and in fact, I shopped for a great skirt and a white crinkly pants cotton outfit that will not only be good for the remainder of this trip, but will be perfect for our next cruise in 2005.  (More about that later!)   

Then it was back to the ship for a quick lunch, then boarding the bus to go out to Longridge Park, a kiwi farm , and jet boating on the Kaituna River.

Kiwis grow much like grapes.   The vines are espaliered over wires so that approximately five feet off the ground, the kiwi canopy forms a solid green mass as you look over the acreage.   The kiwis, being fairly weighty and having sufficient stems,  hang down through the foliage as they ripen and are ultimately harvested.   We all thought that you’d need mighty short people to do the harvesting or that anyone taller would have to do the reaping on their knees.   We were told that “gangs of Indians” come through to do the picking – just like in California with the migrant workers from Mexico.

I have always known about the wonderful green kiwi fruit and enjoyed it many times.   However, on this farm of Abbotsford, they raise an additional variety of kiwi called “kiwi gold”.   This fruit is slightly larger than the green, almost twice as sweet and some say the skin is edible.  Guess it hasn’t quite caught on in America because I’ve never seen them in our markets.

After a brief tour and explanation of the Kiwi half of our group donned life jackets and got ourselves onto two jet boats on the river.   We were driven at very high speeds through narrow gorges, beautiful scenery, waterfalls and countryside.   The wind whipped our clothing, threatened to take our eyeglasses right off our noses and in fact did whip the hat off the head of one passenger in our boat.

The driver of our boat is the owner of the concession on the river and really loved to signal over his head that he would be rotating the boat at high speed by raising his arm, pointing a finger and twirling it in the air.   Thereafter, we would grip the handrails with all the strength we could muster while the boat screamed down the river and then suddenly went into a three hundred sixty degree turn, splashing water over everyone while we shrieked with laughter and tried to wipe the water from our spectacles.   I really loved it.   Adolfo thought the driver of the boat was a “hotdog”!   We were on the river for about forty-five minutes.   The trip was worth every second!

Then we debarked the jet boats, visited the local animals, Jerusalem donkey, Guernsey cow, a Mama and Papa wild boar and their darling litter.   Who could know that those little piglets would grow into ugly animals like their parents, stumps of teeth sticking out of their mouths helter skelter, dirt and drool further intensifying the distaste with which they were viewed as they loudly snuffled in the dirt! 

Then it was up to the gift shop of Longridge where we got the opportunity to shop for more t-shirts, hats, and the usual stuff (have too much already) while we sipped tea, coffee, scones, jam and cream. I’d tucked a book into my purse before leaving on the tour, so skipped the additional, unnecessary food and found shade under a tree for a quiet read until it was time to return to the ship.

Longridge Park

Post Office Box 584, Te Puke,

Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

info@longridgepark.co.nz

Sunday, February 8, 2004 – Waiheke Island & Auckland, New Zealand

We stayed aboard ship instead of going on the “Seabourn Experience” trip.   Every cruise, Seabourn gives a complimentary shore tour, usually one that is five hours plus in duration.   However, for this tour because we have one of our ship’s engines inoperable, we are tendering ashore those who wish to do the tour and the ship will continue limping along to Auckland. Those on the tour will have a chartered ferry at the end of their day for the one-hour ferry ride over to Auckland to meet the ship.

We have fairly nice weather in Auckland and the tugs that have seen us into our berth are doing 360 degree whirly turns in the water below us.   The tug pilot is like the hot dogging driver of the jet boat on the Kaituna River.   He’s having more fun that we are watching him!

Adolfo and I really wanted to be on the ship as it entered Auckland.  That was the reason we decided to skip today’s tour.   Auckland is an interesting city and the port is quite pretty.   The skyline of Auckland, easily identified by the towering space needle in the center of the office district, is a wonderful blend of old and new architecture.  The ship moored right at the foot of the main street in Auckland.  Once again we enjoyed walking off the ship right into the heart of the town.

There are way too many “authentic” New Zealand souvenir stores in every block and with the exception of one store that we saw, all others were owned and operated by Chinese and Koreans.   It seemed that these stores were all clones of each other – racks and racks of items which could have been “Made in China” while being totally “authentic”! One wonderful store had tons of handknit sweaters made of merino mink.  It’s really a combination of possum and merino wool.   These sweaters are wonderfully soft but still a bit itchy for me, so while I could appreciate their beauty I didn’t make any purchases.

Possums were introduced into New Zealand to help stem the growth of wild rabbits.   They did their job quite well but then they became a substitute problem.   So now, there are so many possums that Kiwi’s have found that if they use the fur at the topmost portion of the back of the possum and weave it into the New Zealand wool, the resulting product is quite soft.  The possum fur is in such demand that one cannot buy any wool that’s unknit.   Seems that the manufacturers of the sweaters get priority.

Today we found an opal.   After fruitless searches throughout our stops in Australia, we found the most beautiful opal here in New Zealand, mined in Australia.   After a couple of trips to the store to assure ourselves we weren’t being taken in by the beauty, yet reasonable price of the stone and after talking at length with the owners of the small shop, we were happy to make a purchase.  This beautiful boulder opal is a medium blue tone with brilliant flashes of red throughout the stone.   The pendant is beautiful and I’m enjoying wearing it.

Everyone aboard ship compares reading material and I was astounded to find a couple reading two new (to me) books by Bryce Courtenay.   Only thought he’d written two books as I’ve asked and asked in local bookstores at home if they had any new works by him.  The answer was always “no”.  They only stocked “The Power of One” an incredible read, and the supposed sequel (not too good) titled “Tania”.  Found a book- store in Auckland which sold Bryce Courtenay books.  I had a field day!    Loaded up on five of his books at $25 each for paperback books.   New Zealand $25 works out to about $18 per book.   I really wanted these books and could have bought more, at least another five, but have decided that I’ll do an internet search when I return home for the rest of Courtenay’s books.   Have finished one on the trip and left it behind because of space and weight in the baggage but would recommend a book of Courtenay’s titled “The Family Frying Pan”.

Monday, February 9, 2004 – Auckland, New Zealand

We were off to the Wild West Coast and a viewing to one of two of the only visible gannett sanctuaries.   The coast is dramatic, the weather is certainly cooperating.   A short hike out to the point brought us very close to viewing thousands of gannets, but the smell was so offensive.   It was hard for me to stay and view so I chose a place further back, with fewer birds in view, but grand vistas of shore and beach in either direction.

Then it was on to Abbottsford, a large farm garden on the South Head peninsula, 16 km north of Parakai Hot Springs and an hour’s drive from Auckland. This peaceful garden, laid out in a series of rooms with surprises around every corner, is at the heart of a unique New Zealand style farm stay and bed and breakfast experience.

The surrounding area provides a wealth of activities.   There are three eighteen hole golf courses within a half hour’s drive, visits to a dairy farm and macadamia nut orchard, Kaipara Harbour cruises, thermal pool swimming, fishing trips and horse riding.

These lovely people hosted a group of Seabourn passengers, perhaps twenty-five in all, for lunch, refreshments and wonderful desserts.   The food on the buffet table was beautifully prepared by our hostess, Jenny Holst.  She generously shared her recipes with all of us.  One dish in particular I will try when I get home, a great summer dish, brown rice cooked with soy sauce, fresh ginger root and crystallized ginger.    After lunch, we were treated to a show as their clever sheep dogs worked a herd of sheep in the paddock directly in front of us, and then we were off to the sheep shearing shed for an exhibition.   This was an informative and comfortable tour.   Very nice people, these Kiwi’s!

Trevor & Jenny Holst

Abbottsford Farm & Garden

(Bed & Breakfast)

South Kaipara Head, Helensville, NZ

aholst@xtra.co.nz

www.helensville.co.nz/abbottsford.htm

Tuesday, February 10, 2004 – Russell, Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Today is Cesare Siepe’s birthday, so we are dining with them this evening.   He wasn’t quite certain when we should celebrate because back home (for them in Atlanta) it’s really Fedruary 9.   My suggestion was that we meet at 12:00 midnite to cover all bases to which he responded that I could go, but he’d be asleep!   So we celebrate tonite.

This morning we were taken by private ferry from the ship at anchor off  Russell, New Zealand.   We went to Bay of Islands (a town across the bay from Russell) where we boarded a motorcoach and began our tour to the giant Kauri trees.   I could do a tour every day in the bush of New Zealand.   It is really beautiful.   I think we’ve taken hundreds of pictures of ferns, trees and other assorted plants of the region.

Our guide this morning was a Maori.  Kena is descended from one of the chiefs of the Napui tribe.  He was very handsome, over six feet tall, articulate and funny.   He was so proud of his heritage and so anxious for us to understand it that we drawn into and enjoyed all of the information given us.

We arrived at the forest and walked through wonderful groves of greenery to the giant Kauris which are cousins to the giant sequoias of California.   The Kauri tree is protected as an endangered specie.   Years ago in the formation of New Zealand, forests were stripped of this wonderful tree.   Most of the buildings in Auckland were originally built out of Kauri wood.   If the wood is buried, or is the wood is completely off the ground, it will last forever.  If it is partially submerged in the earth, it will rot.

Our tour this morning ended at the Waitangi National Trust where we toured the Treaty House, the Maori Meeting House (Te Whare Runanga) and saw the Maori Waka, a hand hewn canoe which will hold one hundred Maori warriors (all passengers aboard our ship!). This particularly canoe was made from the trunks of three large kauri trees.  These huge canoes were sailed from far away islands when the Maori settled these islands.   Original settlers were led by the Maori explorer, Kupe who left those he brought to Bay of Islands and returned for a second boat load of tribesmen to further populate these islands.

Maori’s believe that their land is very special – that God created it first in the world, made it perfect and then created the rest of the world only giving each other place some perfection.   

There is nothing in New Zealand that can hurt you in the way of snakes or poisonous bugs, or predators in the bush.   One can even walk barefooted without fear in the bush.   It really does look perfect!

The Waitangi National Trust estate comprises 506 hectares and includes the site where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed on February 6, 1840.   Lord and Lady Bledisloe purchased the estate in 1932 and gave it to the people of New Zealand to enjoy.   The Waitangi National Trust is managed by an Executive Board, whose members represent various tribes of the New Zealand people.

Waitangi National Trust

Post Office Box 48, Paihia

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

waitangiestate@waitangi.net.nz

www.waitangi.net.nz

We have also learned on this trip that many of the San Francisco Victorian houses were built of Kauri wood shipped from New Zealand in the early days of re-establishing the city after the 1906 fire and earthquake.  New Zealanders visiting San Francisco always go on a tour of the Kauri wood homes still standing.

Wednesday, February 11, 2004 – Cruising South Pacific

This morning I had a perfect experience, one that I’ll remember warmly when thinking of this cruise.    Have been working like mad on a needlepoint Christmas stocking for baby Joseph.   Am three quarters of the way completed.  Mostly I work on it in the stateroom, as it is in a rather large wooden frame.   However, the beautiful blue skies and warm weather tempted me to go topside and needlepoint out in the fresh air.    I worked away merrily, content that I’d not been a total slug on this vacation.   Suddenly I had company.   Cesare had plunked himself down next to me and was singing softly.   I looked up and smiled at him.   He asked if I knew what he was singing and I responded negatively.   He told me that he was singing an aria from Faust where one of the characters is sewing – well not exactly sewing, but weaving.   He thought that since I was sewing, I should have music!   So there you have it – perfection!    Blue skies, calm seas, fresh balmy air, fairly good needlepointing, and music by Cesare Siepi!   What more could I want?   He’s a very sweet man.

Today we had the penultimate trivia round.   There’s one more to go tomorrow and then the winners will be determined.   We are the “Pringles” (name of our team) because every day we play trivia, there’s a plate of pringle chips that we munch on.   Going into today’s round we were in the middle of the pack.   There are about eight teams.   Each day the question values change.   Today we started the round with two thousand points (cumulative) and had enough right answers to end up with six thousand more points, for a total of eight thousand points.   At the end of each round there’s a bonus question, (much like final Jeopardy) where each team will bet a certain number of points to see if we can increase our total.  We decided that we had nothing to lose and everything to gain if we bet all eight thousand points on the bonus question.   We were the only team who got it!   I had the answer written down before the question was finished being asked!

The question had to do with naming the entertainer who early in her career was managed and had all her productions and accompaniment handled by Barry Manilow.   Don’t know why I was so certain but I immediately wrote down Bette Midler and we handed in our paper. 

Then of course I got the whim whams and wasn’t certain!   However, the answers came in from other teams as Carol Channing, Barbra Streisand, and a couple of others.    We got it right and as a result now lead the pack with sixteen thousand points.  One woman was still talking at lunch wondering how anyone, especially us, could know the answer to that question – she was indignant!  And, of course, this indignant woman had to be from Marin County! 

Of course, this was the same women, who when spotting my open laptop as I brought this journal up to date, asked me to please not cheat while playing Trivia (even though the game had yet to begin)!   The first time this happened I ignored her.   When on another day she repeated her comment, I looked at her calmly and asked her how she could conceive the possibility of using an unconnected computer on this ship to get any answers to such obscure questions?  She immediately told me that she was just kidding.   Sure!

Adolfo has been dreaming up scenarios for our trivia sessions.   He’s thinking of coming into the next session with the huge Britannica from the ship’s library and having is open on the table just to devil her!

Last night we dined with a couple from North Carolina.   I was exhausted at the end of dinner.   Some people just talk too much and tell me too much.   By the entrée I was on overload and so help me, can’t remember any information imparted to us after that!  Why do some people tell you more than you should ever know about themselves? 

Answer to Trivia #7: Pope Stephen I served one day.

Thursday, February 12, 2004 – Cruising South Pacific

Tonight is our last formal night.   This afternoon I will begin packing and trying to parse out what will go into the one large suitcase we will take for our stay in Fiji.   Our other baggage will be stored at the Tanoa Hotel in Nadi (pronounced “nandy”) where we have a day room on next Thursday, before our flight home that night.   When reaching Lautoka the day after tomorrow, we will have two nights on the island resort of Tokoriki, and then go to a small cruise boat from Blue Lagoon Tours to cruise the Yasawa Islands for three days.    So, the only clothing we will need will be bathing suits, shorts and super casual stuff.    At Tokoriki, we have a “bure” (bungalow) out on the beach.   Should be lots of fun, and totally different from any of our days aboard the Seabourn Spirit.   At this point, though, the packing up of all the stuff does seem daunting.   I should just dig in and get it done!

Trivia Question #16:  What are the two other names for the city of St. Petersburg?

Friday, February 13, 2004 – Dravuni Island, Fiji

This morning we are cruising toward Dravuni Island where most passengers hoped to be tendered ashore for an afternoon on the lovely beach there.   Dravuni Island has just a little over one hundred fifty inhabitants, so that would mean that between passengers and crew going ashore, we will outnumber them!

Weather is really uncomfortable this morning, very humid, some rain.   It’s a depressing day, made more so by the fact that all of our luggage has been retrieved from beneath the bed and we’re filling them up to leave the ship tomorrow.   Our dilemna today is what to pack in the one suitcase we take with us to Tokoriki for two nights, and then on to the Blue Lagoon Cruise boat where we’ll cruise the Yasawas for three nights, four days.    The room is a mess and I really should get back to it.   So will finish this up later.

Answer to Trivia #16:  Two prior names for the city of St. Petersburg are Leningrad and Petrograd.

Saturday, February 14, 2004 – Debark at Lautoka, Fiji and go to Island of Tokoriki, Fiji.

Today we had the most adventurous day of our whole trip and perhaps our whole lives!

We left the ship at 9:00 a.m. and were no sooner in the middle of the gangway, than the skies opened up with a vengeance.   It rained so hard that when we dashed into the metal roofed shed where all off loaded luggage was being held, the noise was so deafening that we couldn’t make ourselves understood to the porters there.    After searching through mountains of all kinds and colors of luggage, I spotted the two red bags and the two grey bags and now only had to locate our driver who was slotted to meet us at shipside.   Adolfo finally found Ravi, our East Indian driver.   He seemed as relieved as we.   All drivers had disappeared into their cars when the downpour started and passengers debarking and claiming their luggage, unable to find a driver previously arranged, were just grabbing local cabs.   What a mess!   I thought it a tremendous end of the trip, very dramatic, but (to use my friend Vyvie’s term) my Lord and Master had a deep frown on his face and wasn’t having too much fun.

I’d found a wonderful three-piece crinkly cotton outfit in Tauranga – white pants, café au lait or caffe latte sleeveless shell and matching to the pants, a wonderful white jacket.   Thought this would be simply perfect for the warmth of Fiji, and to use again on the trip we’d booked for next year, April, 2005.    As I climbed into the older Mercedes car of Ravi, my outfit cleaned all of the edges around the car door, so now my pristine outfit at the sides and back looked like some sort of modern art with slashes of black against the white.   Luckily, I didn’t realize it until later!

Ravi’s car had all seats back and front covered in rather dirty, huge and thick sheepskin seat covers   With the muggy weather, these sheepskin seat covers made me feel as though I’d actually landed in some arctic climate and was meant to be warmed up.    We were sweltering.    However, Ravi was charming and tried his best to get us to the tourist office to check in, then off to the Tanoa Hotel in Nandi, where we have a day room booked on Thursday before we fly out that night.   Because of what we had planned for the next five day it was imperative to downsize luggage.

Then Ravi took us to his Hindu Temple.   Very pretty – we took pictures from the outside because to go in one had to take off one’s shoes and walk the temple and grounds barefoot.   

Everywhere we looked there was mud, or muddy puddles, so we passed on the walkabout.   Then sweet Adolfo asked Ravi (we had time to spare before catching the boat out to the island of Tokoriki) to show us the town of Nadi, which he did with great pride often subtly referring to the differences between the Indian and Fijian populations.   We ended up (per the L&M’s request!) at a huge local market.    This sort of jaunt really interests us as we’ve traveled Italy, Viet Nam, Thailand and France, but this one was daunting.  

The neighborhood was suspect and while a few pieces of luggage were locked in the trunk, my carry-on was next to me on the back seat.  It contained all of the jewelry I’d brought for the cruise and my computer.   Tried to get Adolfo’s attention to tell him that this might not be a good idea, but was ignored or perhaps not understood.    At any rate, I asked Ravi if all would be safe in the car and he assured me that it would.   There are times when one must just accept circumstances on faith.   So into the market we walked.   Much to my consternation, Ravi encouraged me to hold tightly onto my handbag!   Somehow, this did not go with the assurances that all would be well with our belongings in the car!

The market was very colorful, with both Hindi and Fijian stalls loaded with local fruits and vegetables.  Felt that my white outfit was like a klieg light.   Seemed to say,  “Look at me! Look at me!”  I asked in several places to take pictures of vendors and their products.  All seemed very happy to oblige.   We saw avocados so big that it would take four at home to make one of these – but don’t know what size pit this fruit had.    Saw a fruit unknown to me that could be cooked and eaten or the raw juice used as glue.  We saw piles of what looked like some sort of mushroom, but upon closer examination turned out to be similar to a huge boiled and shelled chestnut.   Ravi bought a package and gave us a taste. Now I had this huge piece of chestnut-like substance to eat and ultimately try to cleverly lose.   There was a wonderful assortment of eggplants, all sizes, shapes and colors, okra, breadfruit, guava, mango, miniature pineapples, and lots of men sitting around with metal bowls in their hands sipping an awful colored beige concoction and looking rather stoned!

Ravi told us that this is a drink called “kava” which is made from the root of a tree unpronounceable to me.   He was happy to have us try it – we declined.    There are tables and tables loaded with the dried root and/or branches. It seems to be the main product sold at the market. Larger kava roots produce a stronger final product.    Actually, I can’t figure out whether just the root of the plant is used, or the dried branches as well.  The roots are dried well, pounded into a powder in a huge bowl and water mixed with it. There is a ceremonial rite involving the preparation and drinking of kava but from personal observation one would deduce that lots of Fijians have taken this ceremonial rite too far.  I find it amazing that in a country heavily populated with Moslems, even they make excuse to drink kava but that’s another discussion!

After the market we were whisked to the Denaru pier to check in and catch the catamaran to our island paradise of Tokoriki.  Due to the horrible weather that continued from the time we’d debarked the Seabourn Spirit, our catamaran was over one hour late so we waited under a thatched cover, surviving rain and wind driven sideways.   There was no escaping the inclemency.   Finally, a huge catamaran arrived, disgorging almost one hundred people, tons of luggage, backpacks and packages to be mailed.   Here’s where the real “fun” of the day began for us.

We happily boarded the catamaran, knowing full well we’d probably have a bumpy ride with the rather large ocean swells.   It was more than we’d bargained for.   I fought seasickness the whole of the first hour and fifteen minutes.  This first hour should have been a thirty- minute ride but because of the weather sailing to each stop was very tough.   At each island, an extremely small boat would come out to our catamaran (after being summoned by radio), passengers leaving their island would jump onto the catamaran, while others arriving at the island would jump onto the little boat after which luggage was tossed to follow them.  Seasickness wasn’t enough to deal with.  Now I was getting really nervous as I watched the pitching and bucking catamaran and the little connecting boats.   Would we have to make a similar arrival onto Tokoriki?   Good Lord!   No one had warned us of this transport.   Could Adolfo make the transfer with his awful knees?

After four “stops”, we arrived at the island of Mana where we transferred to a smaller boat with a capacity of twenty passengers.   At least this time the catamaran was moored to a dock, while the transfer boat was moored to the catamaran.   It was easier than we thought it would be.

Off we went, heading towards a very dark and stormy horizon.  While this transfer boat didn’t sway so precipitously as the catamaran, it hit the huge swells with a vengeance, often descending from the nearly fifteen foot swells with a resounded whack on its metal hull.   We felt we’d lose our teeth or at least crack our spines on our hard plastic seats.   The crew and driver of the boat were having a wonderful time as rain and ocean assaulted us.

I wondered how my computer was faring in all of this and was thankful that I’d wrapped it in bubble wrap before putting it into its case and further into my carry-on luggage.

Because of the weather there were no windows open in the small boat and the air was thick and hot.   Didn’t help the seasickness!  The only other passenger for Tokoriki was an employee of the resort, a masseuse.    She was of East Indian ethnicity, very beautiful, very young and totally out of control.  Every time our boat made a loud noise, she screamed.   When we were told she was an employee, her lack of confidence did nothing to bolster our own.

Our island of Tokoriki became visible in the distance.    Tokoriki is the last island in the chain of the Mamanuca Islands, the last before the start of the Yasawa Islands chain.   The weather was getting worse.   There was no dock at Tokoriki so we’d have to make a transfer out in the ocean to a very small boat as we’d seen accomplished earlier in the day.   However, the swells were twice as high at this end of the journey.   Suddenly we were drenched with seawater as the Plexiglas window to the right of the pilot was blown out - first it was there, then it was gone.   On the wildly bucking and pitching boat we were instructed to change our seats to the other side so we’d get less wet.   We had gracious help as we navigated the small aisle to the other seats.   Fijians are wonderful, gentle people, full of fun and especially getting a real laugh out of our adventure.   One sweet man kept asking us if we were all right.  He had to be kidding!

As we got closer to Tokoriki the island disappeared.   A huge storm front descended and totally obscured the island.   Our young passenger/employee once again showed us her true grit as she shouted, “It’s gone”!   This bolstered us immensely.  In about ten minutes the island reappeared, but the swells were still extremely high.  The boat slowed and our captain began calling Tokoriki for a small boat to pick us up.  No one answered.   This calling continued for at least ten minutes, maybe more.   Suddenly in the distance two young men ran out of the trees, pounded down the beach while flinging off their shirts into the wind, dove into the water and began swimming to a boat at anchor in the roiling sea.

It was at this point that I wondered if the L&M was remembering our conversation back home as we planned this trip and my impassioned request that after debarking the Seabourn Spirit in Lautoka, Fiji, we head immediately home.   Nothing I said could make him change his mind but that we had to see Fiji after we’d traveled so far.   Here we were.   Would we live to get back home or both have an unintended burial at sea?  We are really too old for this sort of adventure.   We’ll never get our children to believe that doddering old Mom and Dad saw this day through!

After pulling up anchor and starting the little boat off shore, the Tokoriki boys began making their way to us.   The swells sometimes fully hid the boat’s approach.   I began wondering whether we’d have to reverse the process and swim ashore if we were successful in transferring to the smaller boat.    It took a bit of time for the transfer boat to reach us and further time to secure it to the catamaran.  The two boats just refused to bob and jib in time with each other.   This time our luggage was transferred before us. When I use the word “transfer” I really mean tossed with a resounding thud.  I had my carry-on but it was whisked away from me as I informed the “whisker” that it had a computer in it – to please be careful.  As it was handed into the smaller boat, everyone was shouting, “computer!”  “computer!”

I can’t actually remember making the transfer.  I do remember that I was finally seated on a very wet seat.   Did I mention that unlike all other smaller boats we’d seen that day, this one had no canvas covering?   Perhaps it had been blown away in the wind.   I do remember turning around to see Adolfo’s foot descend into the boat, step on something red that was floating in the water at the bottom of the boat and begin to slip.   But, he was okay and admonished me to “Move over, I have to sit!”  As we began our bumpy, precarious journey toward shore, I saw my carry-on begin to teeter and told one of the men on the boat that it contained a computer, upon which he scooped it up, stood in the boat and held it like a precious baby for the rest of the journey – such a show off.

Water sloshed over the sides of the boat and rained pelted us from above further wetting us. We didn’t care.   Just wanted to set our feet on solid land.    As we neared shore I could see that the boat would be sent right up onto the sand for our debarkation.   As the boat touched shore a huge wave broke over the stern of the boat and fully drenched me.   My beautiful white outfit had suddenly become transparent.   The manager of the hotel, Penioni, ran toward us with towels and as we fell out of the boat into the surf.  He wrapped us in towels, grabbed our luggage and said “Come, come!”   My clothing was dripping with salt water as he insisted we sit on chairs in the lobby.   I declined until he put towels down.   Then he brought us lovely fruit smoothies as we tried to calm our racing pulses and I, my upset tummy.   We were so thankful to be here but all I could think of was the fact that we would have to reverse the process when we left and what would the weather be like on Monday?

In planning our transport out to Tokoriki before we left home, one of our options was a quick flight by small seaplane.   I declined and opted for the boat.   As it turned out, we made the right choice because with today’s weather, all seaplane flights were cancelled.  The swells in the ocean were to big for them to land safely.

Another couple, Mary and Bob Longpre from Los Angeles, due to arrive on Tokoriki from the Seabourn Spirit, have not arrived.

Our accommodation is one of the last bures (cabin) out from the main lodge.   We walk about half a block through garden to the beach which runs the entire length of this resort.   As I write this we haven’t been out there yet, because it’s raining again today (Sunday) so hard that we’d be soaked within five feet of venturing outside.   Our bure is designated as “Honeymoon 2”.  We’ve been married forty-four years and hardly look like honeymooners.  When we sign for a meal or something in the shop and they ask our room number, everyone laughs! 

Honeymoon 2 has teak floors, a lovely veranda overlooking the beach through the palm trees, a huge tub, an outdoor shower with full privacy and louvered, adjustable walls throughout the bure.   There is an air conditioner which we find the most comfortable when we are in the room, and a huge ceiling fan which circulates the air quite well.  There are no telephones or television.   They are not missed.

Met a nice couple from Glendale, California with whom we enjoyed dinner.   Jim and Eileen Givens marveled all through cocktails and the meal of our dramatic arrival on the island - to say the least!  

Trivia Question #17:  What are snowballs, white horses, and igloos?

Sunday, February 15, 2004 - Tokoriki, Fiji

We slept very peacefully last night, the first time in one month that our bed was still.  Most nights on the Spirit, the ship was out at sea and although it’s usually quite comforting, a bed on land seems more normal. 

After a lovely buffet breakfast this morning, where the local Tiki birds come and beg food from your plate, we finally registered at the hotel and were informed that instead of doing the reverse trip when we leave, we must only take the littlest boat from this island, out to the point (very rough water) where the Blue Lagoon Cruise boat will pick us up tomorrow between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m. to begin our three days in the Yasawa Islands.   Certainly hope that this weather clears before then.  Oh boy, can hardly wait for another open sea transfer!

After breakfast, we donned our swimming gear and tried to walk the beach.  Adolfo found it much too windy and retreated to the sheltered path heading in the same general direction as I, who persisted on the beach.    Later, some swimming in the pool as the ocean was just too windy and the sand blowing at gale force on the beach really stung our legs.  However, if one faces directly into the wind, all wrinkles on the face disappear!  It’s really too bad to have come all this way and not be able to take advantage of the beautiful ocean for swimming but these storms which are hitting us the last two days only prove that we are not in control!   We continue to have hope for tomorrow.

At dinner we once again enjoyed the company of Eileen and Jim Givens, and were joined by a couple from England, Bryan and Maggie.  Lots of friendly conversation and early to bed.   We really are so tired from doing nothing the last five weeks!

Answer to Trivia #17:  Cauliflower.

Monday, February 16, 2004 - Tokoriki, Fiji

This morning we awoke to sunshine.   Still many clouds and the weather appears ominous in the distance.   We’ll just have to wait and see.   

We were told last night that our bure is booked for arriving guests at 11:00 a.m.  We’ll have to vacate the bure and wait until 5:00 p.m. in the lobby area until it’s time to meet our cruise ship.   Not too appealing.  Adolfo has spoken with the manager who has agreed to give us another bure for the day.  And as I write this, we’ve been hit again by monsoon rains.  Twenty minutes ago, the sun was shining.

At 9:30 a.m., with all packing done and awaiting the transfer to our day bure,  we were paid a visit by one of the office staff, Numaia.   Numaia very politely asked permission to sit and proceeded to inform us that they couldn’t guarantee the condition of the sea that evening for our transfer.   He really thought it would be far too dangerous.  Besides, Blue Lagoon is hardly ever on time so it could be closer to 7:00 p.m. before the ship arrives.   This lateness of hour, coupled with the fact that the seas would probably be rough once again, made it impossible for him to recommend that we go ahead with our plans.  Instead, he wanted us to consider a helicopter to the mainland and then a car transfer to Lautoka so we could board the boat at point of origin.

Helicopter?!?!?!   I really don’t like helicopters.   We had a choice at the planning of this trip to take a seaplane or a helicopter to Tokoriki and I nixed both modes of transport.  We opted for the boats and you know how well that worked out! Now it seemed that we had no choice.   A helicopter was bringing guests just a bit past noon and we should be ready to hop on board with our luggage and return to Nadi Airport.   Adolfo knew how nervous this change in plans made me so he remarked that if we could do the sea transfers coming to Tokoriki, the helicopter should be a “piece of cake”.  I agreed.   Now all that was left was for Niumaia to contact Blue Lagoon to let them know that they must wait for us in Lautoka, just in case we were delayed.  

We settled our bill, then thought we should get a bite to eat before leaving.   Lunch is usually served at 12:00 noon.   The meals at Tokoriki, especially lunch and dinner, have been the source of many jokes.   The quality of the food is okay, but just a hamburger, or a salad can take forty-five minutes to arrive and then after you’ve eaten, if you want desser you can sit there another forty-five minutes waiting for it to arrive.   Needless to say mealtimes are lengthy affairs.   We asked that even though the dining area was not yet open, if we could order something very quick.   Suli, one of our favorite waiters, realized our dilemna and hustled to get us two steak sandwiches – Numaia’s recommendation.

The French fries accompanying our sandwiches were really fine and I ate each and every morsel.   However, the steak sandwich was nothing short of a wonder.   Looked like tiny bits of beef that should have been stir-fried with veggies but instead approximately three pieces per half sandwich had been put onto toasted white bread which had been heavily slathered with a creamy garlic concoction.   It was a soggy mess!

At 12:10 we were hustled out to the helipad with our luggage and told that the helicopter would arrive in ten minutes.    At 1:15 p.m., we were still standing there with our luggage and not a sign of the helicopter in the sky.   Everyone that went by presumably went in to check on the helicopter’s arrival.   We continued to get new arrival times, with the caveat “Fiji time”!    Finally at 1:25 p.m., the helicopter arrived.   By this time, our English friends and the Givens who’d been watching us wait while eating their lunch, decided to order their dessert and come out to see us off.   They were certain that it probably wouldn’t have arrived at table even when they returned.

We climbed up to our seats, had life jackets clipped to our waists and then were strapped into the seats – Adolfo up front next to the pilot and I in the rear seat.   Our friends on the ground laughed as we took off and I made the Sign of the Cross.   It probably was funny but I was really serious!

I’d truly worried for nothing.   The only other helicopter ride I’ve ever done was a trip onto the Mendenhall Glacier in Alaska.   I remember a steep take off and sort of swooping sideways and not liking the least part of it.   This ride was much different.  Russell, a very young man, gently took the copter aloft and steadied it out over the water and we were off, gently thwomping our way across the water toward Nadi Airport. I wasn’t nervous at all after the first minute.   I might even do it again.   Getting to Tokoriki would certainly have been wonderful, had we coptered in two days ago.

At Nadi Airport, our arranged driver met us and took us to Blue Lagoon reception where we once again hooked up with Jerry and Janet Kroll, from New York  They’d been on the Seabourn cruise with us.   It was wonderful to see friendly faces.

We were shortly aboard the Mystic Princess and our tour of Fiji began with a fire drill, life jackets, and an information lecture about the ship and activities the next three days.

Dinner that night was the captain’s dinner and we were served ala Tokoriki or “Fiji time”.

We unpacked into the smelly closet and equally smelly drawers.   Don’t know if some cedar spray would help or if this odor is just a condition of the tropics.  Smelled like  a boy’s dirty gym locker!   Our life jackets are particularly offensive so I’ve sprayed them with my favorite perfume!

We were both tired and retired shortly after dinner to a wonderfully comfortable bed and a terrific night’s sleep.

Trivia Question #18:  What two countries are separated by the Gulf of Bothnia?

Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - on the Mystic Princess

The night before we’d been instructed that if we wanted to go for a swim first thing in the morning, we sign up at the purser’s desk to be called at 6:00 a.m.   Thought that would be wonderful so at 6:00 the phone rang.  I brushed my teeth, ran fingers through my hair (what there is of it!) jumped into my swim suit, grabbed swim fins and snorkel mask and was off to the back platform of the ship.  There was easy access to a flat bottomed boat which took us approximately a half mile to a deserted beach and what looked like an equally deserted island.   The boat beached, we climbed out, put on our gear and jumped into the water.   The sun was barely up, the air was still, quiet and peaceful everywhere.    From across the waterway on another island we could see a Fijian village waking up.  It was too far to see any people, but we could see smoke coming up from their cooking fires.

Snorkeling on this ordinary beach was almost better than snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef.   Saw many and varied colorful fish.   The water was clear, the current was non-existent, snorkeling conditions were perfect.   There were only nine of us so we all had our space without bumping into another body or getting someone else’s fins in the face.  And there were no sea lice!

After about forty minutes in the water, we were called back to the boat and began our trek back to the Mystic Princess but only after about two minutes of travel, we halted and waited for her to proceed to us and pick us up.   Her journey for that day had begun.

Out next stop was mid morning at Omba Beach on Yasawa Island.   We went ashore for a day of snorkeling, swimming, shelling and lolling.  Morning tea was brought ashore by the crew.     While there was plenty of good sea life viewing fairly close to shore, we got the opportunity to go out to a further reef in the flat bottom boats, then fall overboard with our gear and keeping the reef to our right.  The boats were near at hand for guidance or rescue as we proceeded as far as we wished, the ultimate goal being to be back on the beach.    It was a very long swim.   I surprised myself by completing it and not being in the least bit tired.   Out of maybe thirty swimmers only five of us reached the beach unaided.    When I got back into the little boat to return to our ship, I muttered “Not bad for an old lady!”.   The Fijian crew member at the helm answered “Old is gold!”  Then, he looked at me and smiling said “You very good swimmer!”   That made my day!

Nacula Village on Nacula Island was our afternoon stop after lunch aboard the ship.   We were advised to dress carefully.   Shorts were not advised for the women as Fijians are very modest.   We were told not to wear our bathing suits – like I would!

Here I digress a bit for some gossip.   There is a woman aboard ship named Molly.   Molly is traveling with her husband.  Molly has spent way too much time and money on plastic surgeons.  I can’t figure out why?  Her features aren’t bad, but her face has been pulled to a fare-thee-well.   It is grotesque and topped with a very bad blond wig that is too long.   Her body has been equally surgically worked on and it really looks quite good.   Unfortunately, her lack of clothing has allowed all other passengers to see way too much of it.  She actually appeared on the beach in a thong.   As if that wasn’t enough of an exhibition for her (and us!) she appeared at lunch with a tiger print bit of fabric that barely covered the thong and was slit on both sides right up to her waist!   In this get-up she has paraded through the dining room, back and forth, at least seven times.   The Italian couple’s wife is muttering “putana” under her breath.   The women titter a bit, the men drool and ogle, and most sadly, no one seems to talk with her.  The women don’t know what to say to her, or where to look, and the men are afraid their wives will kill them!  The Fijian crew is really disgusted but continuing to strive for politeness.

So now, back to the Fijian village.   We tendered ashore and went to the Methodist church in the village where our tour director, Alex, briefed us on the traditions of this village, schooling of its children, farming, etc.   While he was talking to us, he noticed some of his audience looking out the window.   He walked over to the window, glanced out and muttered,  “Here she comes – wandering”.   Those of us close to him knew exactly that he must be speaking of Molly, and sure enough, she soon joined us in the church, wearing one of her mini hot pants, skin tight brief halter top, and her husband’s wind breaker tied around her waist which covered nothing.   She really hadn’t a clue!

After the briefing, we went out to the ceremonial gathering place where the elders of the village, and our appointed chief, Harry, participated in a kava rite.   Then we were entertained with song and dance by the villagers.   We were invited to dance with them.   It was lots of fun.   They are a sweet, gentle, full of laughter people, the oldest have very bad teeth.    They really need to send their young people out into the world to become dentists so that they can come back and take care of all the rotting teeth in Fijiland.

After the singing and dancing, the women opened a shell market.   They find deep water shells of great beauty.  Bought some for our grandchildren.   There are also tons of small shells that wash up onto the beaches.   These are used to make necklaces.   Most money earned in this way goes to educate their children.   The children are taken by boat each Monday morning to the other side of the island and returned after school ends on the Friday.   Each week, a different village is in charge of the children’s food and care.

Only the very brightest and diligent are sent on to the mainland for higher education (after age fifteen).   Fijians have found that many of the children they’ve sent for higher education latch on to the wrong crowds and forget what they’ve been sent to do.   The promise the children must make when they leave the village is to learn something useful to bring back that will help the village.

The villagers also sold huge mud crabs and the most colorful lobster this afternoon.   Passengers wishing to buy them would have them cooked aboard ship for their dinner.    The afternoon was really memorable.   We felt that we’d gotten a true taste of Fiji in visiting this village, albeit poor by our standards, rich in traditions, love of live, pride in Fiji and the nurturing of their children.

Back to the ship to shower and change for dinner.   UGH!   Even though I thought I’d been in the water while snorkeling that morning, my back is on fire.   Should have worn a t-shirt.  I really do know better – what was I thinking!   

Answer to Trivia #18:  Sweden and Finland

Wednesday, February 18, 2004 - on the Mystic Princess

No early morning swim – too sun burned.   Did swim at 9:30 a.m. at Savuti Point / Beach.  Purchased a cotton t-shirt at the ship’s boutique and hoped that this would allow me to spend another morning in the water.  Swam out to the nearest reef to watch the crew feed fish.   We were surrounded by sargeant major fish (vertical black and white striping) and coast guard fish (horizontal black and white striping).   The coast guard fish are very cheeky.   One actually bit my finger, not seriously, but more like a puppy taking a nibble.   There were hundreds of fish in the water. 

Morning tea and lunch were served ashore and then the rains hit and we were back on board for the afternoon.   Napping and needlepointing were the order of the day for me.

That evening we went ashore to enjoy a dinner of pork, beef, lamb and fish – all cooked in the ground, covered in palm fronds and that covered with sand.   Didn’t think the food was good at all but the experience was fine.   More dancing, a talent show involving teams of different countries aboard ship, more kava for those who wanted it (A & I have not and will not taste it!), and back to the ship for our last night.

Only one bad bit today.  This evening I was attacked by sand fleas and I have welts three inches round all over my lower legs.   Felt as though my legs were on fire.   Another Fijian experience to remember.  I’ll probably be dealing with these bites for the next couple of weeks.

Fifty acres of the island we visited today is owned by Blue Lagoon Cruises.   They care for it diligently and guard its extraordinary beauty.   The beaches are pristine, the foliage along the shore looks like it should be on a picture postcard.

Our dilemna while in Fiji has been which photographs to eliminate from our collection as we download yet another day of totally gorgeous beaches, jungles and sunsets.   It’s impossible to take a poor photograph.

Trivia Question #19:  Who rode “Rosinante”?

Thursday, February 19, 2004 - leaving the Mystic Princess

This morning we pack and are off the ship in Lautoka by 11:45 a.m. I set up my computer in the main salon and ran a slide show of the last three days. The Fijian crew was enthralled as they watched their country and themselves unfold with each passing frame. They were so appreciative that I felt I’d given them a wonderful gift. While this show was going on I think I sold another two Mac Powerbook computers to other passengers! That’s the running joke – I really work for Apple because my enthusiasm gets so out of control about this product.

After debarkation we spent most of the day at the Tanoa Hotel, resorting clothing, gathering those clothes we’d set aside for our trip back to the USA. It was good that the hotel supplied irons and boards in the room and we could at least travel looking fairly neat. Tons more rain today. It’s amazing that these islands haven’t just floated away.

When arriving at the lounge at the Nadi Airport, we met five other couples who’d been on the Seabourn Spirit and were also returning home. It was fun to catch up with new old friends.

That evening . . .

Weve just gotten into LAX and are awaiting our very late connection to SFO. Have tried to fill in some of the moments of this last five and half weeks journal, but will no doubt do many rewrites before anyone reads it.

Our flight from Fiji was really wonderful – ten and a half hours, non-stop. I slept about six hours - pretty darned good. The food aboard Air New Zealand is wonderful and service with lots of smiles and good humor. Seats in business are really too narrow though and this plane also did not have a hookup for my computer. Must see if next year with a very long flight to Singapore scheduled, that I make this a priority.

Now we can begin to think about 2005 and the trip booked while we were on the Seabourn Spirit. Adolfo has talked me into a thirty-five day cruise from Singapore to Istanbul, including a three day overland trip to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal, visits to Malaysia, transit through the Suez Canal, Petra, Giza and the great pyramids, the Greek islands of Crete, Mykonos and Rhodes, and a final destination of Istanbul.

I must remember that I really had too many clothes this trip and could have done with less. Although I took less than the trip before, I can pare down more. Am putting this in writing so I won’t forget when it comes time to pack in 2005. Found huge silk scarves a great way to augment the evening wardrobe and came up with a couple of outfits I hadn’t planned. They turned out to be my favorite.

Answer to Trivia #19: Don Quixote.