February 1 - Valpariso, Chile - No Phone!
View from Palacio Astoreca, Valparaiso
I begin this journal high above the desert – don’t know which desert! We are two hours into our 3-1/2 hour flight to Dallas-Ft Worth on the first leg of our journey. Left the house in medium disarray – orchids are watered and should last for two months, especially if the heat is turned way down, refrigerator is cleaned out, water in laundry room turned off, no dirty dishes in the sink, etc. As I compile this list, fear that I will remember something that I forgot! Threw out the African Violets (just a few!) because there’s no way that they will not have expired by the time we return.
Oh No, I did forget one orchid which I meant to give to a neighbor because it was in full bloom – forgot to water and it will certainly be in a state of demise when we return. Steve, if you read this, please go by the house and pick up the plant – Rose might enjoy it for a week or so more. It’s the plant above my stove with the yellow blooms on it.
We are now comfortably ensconced in our hotel in Valparaiso – Palacio Astoreca – a charming, high-end, bed and breakfast, located in a very hilly part of the city – one would be most comfortable if one were part mountain goat! However, to get here, we did pay a certain penance.
After a wonderful flight from Dallas/Ft. Worth, cruising at between 30,000 and 39,000 feet, hardly any turmoil, lovely and gracious American Airlines stewards, passable food (never saw so much ruin caused to a beautiful filet!), watching movies through the night, we landed ahead of schedule in Santiago, Chile. We knew a car and driver was waiting for us and had no qualms about making this connection.
BUT . . . at least one other large, multi-passenger plane – perhaps two more – arrived at the same time. It looked like a mass migration of multi-cultural peoples, all tired beyond belief, all trying to juggle much too much in the way of carry-ons, and all jockeying to get the best position in the immigration/passport check lines. If that wasn’t enough, we had a repeat performance of the masses for the agricultural check, and finally had to walk a half mile before I could find which carousel had our one piece of checked luggage. As we came to the area where all drivers await their charges, we were overwhelmed to see over 100 signs (that’s a conservative number) waving overhead and nary a one with the name “Capurro” on it. A very nice man who was sorting out taxis, helped us call the numbers we had on hand to locate our driver, but his cell was turned off! We finally negotiated a taxi ride out to Valparaiso (1 to 1-1/2 hour ride). I heard the price to be $150. When we went to the Cambio to change American $$$ into Pesos, the proper price was $250!!! Adolfo on his last legs – me, too! I bit the bullet and we were soon in a cab screaming off to the coast.
I remember taking my new iPhone 6 out of my purse to call Mama and let her know we were on the ground. The time was inconvenient for her back home so decided I would wait, and that’s the last thing I remember. I conked out!
We arrived at the hotel, sorted ourselves out marginally and decided to have lunch. Our “Palacio” recommended a fine restaurant two blocks up hill – great food, beautiful restaurant. Adolfo took one look at the hill to climb, decided we needed something closer – and that’s what we did. Totally unremarkable lunch, but the split of Sauvignon Blanc from the Maipo Valley (I drank the whole thing!) was delicious and refreshing and did the trick to mellow me out – while Adolfo enjoyed a local beer – that was until I reached into my purse to see if this might be a better time to call Mama. NO PHONE!!!
We had our lunch, came back to the room, searched everywhere – no phone. I began calling AT&T and finally managed to suspend service to the number. Then thought I should let Gabriella at the front desk know. Told her I’d had a really bad day – and she said she knew I’d lost my iPhone!!! The taxi driver had called, but couldn’t remember our names. He would bring it back to Valparaiso for the price of another $250. Okay – I wanted that phone. Five minutes later, Gabriella knocked on our door and said that if we wished, the bellman would leave shortly for Santiago, pick up my phone and get it right back to me – and for only half the price! Such a deal!
So that’s where we are now. I sit composing this journal on an oh-so-small balcony that overlooks the harbor in a distance. The sun is out, the sky is blue, the weather is mild.
Across the street is a most interesting building – can’t really describe the architecture ‘cause it seems more like an ancient hot mess – it is different – the sign says it’s the Yugoslavian Embassy.
We should be able to see our ship come in to port tomorrow morning at 6:00 a.m. Meanwhile, I await the phone delivery, so that I can climb into jammies and go to sleep – so very tired.
Memories for the day:
(1) There doesn’t seem to be a building in this city that has not been tagged – and I’m talking graffiti all over and around!! What doesn’t have graffiti has poster upon poster – don’t think these buildings ever get painted.
(2) Buildings / architecture very old, some pretty decrepit.
(3) Every other woman wearing tights has a bright flowered variety. . . and then there was the sheer black and white long pants with a red thong clearly visible beneath!
(4) No one pays any attention to traffic, nor does traffic pay any attention to pedestrians. It’s a quick Ave Maria and move out into the melee!
Later . . . It’s now 1:30 a.m. on February 3 – both wide awake. Telephone returned last night by the cab driver – so had to pay the full fare of $250. Have no idea what happened to the bellman who was to do the recovery for half the price – oh well – phone is back, will reactivate today once we are settled on the ship.
Shin-killing bed - Valparaiso
As nice as the staff was at our hotel, am happy to leave. My shins are scarred and black and blue. The bed frame is wood that has pointy corners that protrude beyond the mattress about six inches all around. Every time I move around the room, crash into one of the corners – ouch, ouch and more ouch!!
Arrived and boarded ship without any blips – all went smoothly. In our suite we found all suitcases had arrived. Spent the next two hours unpacking, going to the ship’s drill (mandatory for all passengers), and then out on deck for the sail away.
Christina will be interested to note that we visited with a retired doctor who’d done his residency under our favorite pediatric neurologist at UCSF years ago – Bruce Berg. He said that Dr. Berg had a profound effect on his medical future and that he almost became a pediatric neurologist – but couldn’t deal with so many ill children. So instead he became a neurologist (without the pediatrics). Had nothing but praise for Dr. Berg. Then at dinner, sat next to another doctor – a newly retired radiation oncologist - lovely man and his wife (across the table) from Spokane, Washington. On my other side was a stock broker, par excellence, with Wells Fargo Advisors, who will be giving a lecture or two during the cruise - great dinner conversation, and the usual good food and abundant delicious wines.
On the Seabourn Quest Today is Adolfo’s birthday.
When we boarded yesterday we were greeted by our old friend, David E. Green, the cruise director. Good to see him again. We are having dinner with him tonight – have also been invited to the Captain’s table. Would prefer to dine with David – dinners at the Captain’s table tend to be stilted. Can one turn down the Captain’s invitation? – am ready to do that – in a heartbeat!
Puerto Montt and Castro, Chile
We've had our evening of intro by the Captain, met the heads of departments, and received general information about the cruise. Along with getting fun facts from others aboard ship, we are beginning to get the flavor of what we have in store. Here's a bit of information:
This is a particularly challenging cruise for the Captain and Crew. That must be why the Captain has such dark circles under his eyes!!!
Have learned via scuttlebutt that there are two captains aboard - hmmmmmm....
While the ship has a reinforced hull to deal with ice, the ship is not an ice breaker.
We have a full expedition team aboard, and it is said that they are one of the most expert teams on Antarctica. Tonight we are having dinner with the two leads of the team - will probably have lots more to report tomorrow.
We have a full passenger list - 450 people, some of whom are the Expedition Team for Antarctica. There is a 350 crew count.
Puerto Montt, Chile / Volcano Osarno
We were all day at Puerto Montt - where we'd been before and done an extensive shore tour. The day was beautiful, so while we ate lunch out on deck, we had a clear view of the large volcano that is at the backdrop of this port town - Osarno Volcano - really beautiful with snow cap and clouds over the top. We were to leave on our way to Castro at 8:00 p.m., but after traveling a bit away from shore, we anchored because of a very sick passenger who was taken ashore to the hospital. Am still not clear whether or not the patient came back to the ship or if we left the person back in Puerto Montt. Apparently the best hospital for this region is in that port.
We are now anchored off shore at Castro. The weather is mild, some people have gone ashore to tour. Understand that there's not much to see in the town, except for a unique church that is entirely unfinished wood beams on the inside - we hear reports that it is different and beautiful in its simplicity, and that will have to do as we don't have the energy to go see it for ourselves!
Church of San Francisco exterior and interior
We realized later in the day, that we should have taken the church tour of Chiloe Island. Each and every church is remarkable. From the ship, we can see the church pictured below. Have taken the photos from Google!
Sarmiento Channel
After a fairly rocky day at sea yesterday and lots of rain, this morning we awoke with the weather still cold and wet, but in the Sarmiento Channel, a principal Patagonia channel which extends in a north-south direction. It is the southward continuation of the Guia Narrows (Angostura Guia) and is located in Magallanes y Antarctica Chilean Region. Land is close on either side of the ship, there is evidence of icebergs nearby as the water is filled with floating ice debris - looks like a large, slushy Margarita!! We should be seeing glaciers today. There are also occasional groups of porpoises following along with the ship. And, yesterday morning, one passenger spotted a pod of small whales. The last two evenings we've been invited to tables of the expedition team. Two nights ago, our hosts were Mary and Rory Martin. The table was really fun, and somewhat informative as to what we have in store when we reach Antarctica. Last evening we dined with John Fonseca, "the man with the full white beard". He was loaded with information which he gladly shared. He's been in Antarctica a great deal, and even served long stints at the station in the South Pole - 13 months at a time. We are beginning to fully anticipate this wonderful adventure.
Within a few days, every evening at 6:30 the expedition team will be meeting in the Main Salon and passengers will be invited to learn what is in store for us the following day. What we learned the last two evenings at dinner, is that the expedition team is geared to alter plans in an instant. Weather and ice conditions are so changeable in the Antarctic, they have to be able to judge what will be best and most safe for all guests aboard the ship - and themselves!
Meanwhile we "learn" constantly through many documentaries that we can view at will in our suites. Old ones, new ones, and some currently being taped for our viewing. Great education!
What I am observing is that the expedition team is a collection of enthusiastic and passionate people, experienced in this sort of adventure, and handpicked by Robin West, who is their team leader. Their ages vary from the young to the seasoned. Apparently this team began assembling two years ago, and have come from far and wide to give us the ultimate Antarctic experience. Both the Martins and Fonseca last evening seemed very honored to be a part of this team, and are willing to go anywhere in the world to work with Robin West. There is rumor that this same team might work together in 2017, destination yet to be determined, but it will also be an adventure aboard a Seabourn ship.
There have been an assortment of lectures available to us, either in person or via the television in our suites. They are taped so that if you are taking a nap, you can pick it up later. Subjects abound, from an overview of Patagonia, to the flora and fauna of the regions. Yesterday we heard a wonderful lecture about baleen and toothed whales. There are also ace photographers aboard who hold seminars to help you get the best photos possible. Today, we find out "Who Eats Sharks for Breakfast?", "Past and Future Plate Movement" and the "Unexplored Mountains and Icecaps of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego".
So, you see, there is something for everyone! Then there's always another nap, a snack, a bit of needlework, and while we're at sea, the casino. The passengers aboard this trip are quite different from former cruises. Every other person is wearing hiking boots, heavy socks, jeans and the ship's heavy duty parkas (every guest got one to wear while on this trek – and to take home!), are already in use with the wet and cold weather. Gone are the fancy cruise clothes! The weather today has been changeable. The next two photos show the huge difference in coloration created by the blue skies and then with the absence of blue skies, sunshine, and dark grey cloud cover. There's always something beautiful to photograph!
Punta Arenas, Chile
We docked yesterday in Punta Arenas - literal meaning is Sandy Shores. There were two other cruise ships in port, HUGE ones! That meant that there were probably 5,000 additional tourists in port. Knowing that, going ashore was not as attractive as if we were the only ship in port. When here last time, we'd gone out to see the Magellan penguins, and walked through their rookery on wooden plank paths. They went about their business just as if we were distant relatives visiting, and they didn't quite have time for us! They are very funny with peculiar personalities! I'm particularly reminded of little old, arthritic men, in tuxes, walking in single file, on parade, to the surf. Once entering the water, they become young and playful, full of energy and grace. Alongside our ship at the dock were two expedition ships getting refitted and outfitted for another jaunt into the Antarctic - one was from Woods Hole, in existence since 1930. As a result, there was lots of noise coming from outside, however, we took our naps anyway. We did want to go for a long walk on the dock to the nearby shops, but as soon as we'd decided, the clouds let loose and it poured rain. Better to nap than to walk. We'll try again in Ushuaia. Dinner with Phillip Returner, the Hotel Captain. Very nice young fellow from Lucerne, Switzerland. Dinner was preceded by a gathering of the Seabourn Club members - those people who are on return cruises. Almost half the ship are repeaters. One couple was recognized as having 600 days on the ships. When that special recognition happens, the guests being celebrated receive a prized blue bag from Tiffany's. On our 300th anniversary, we received such a bag that held a beautiful crystal bowl. Went to the casino after dinner and played 3-card poker for the second night running - was quite successful both nights!
Drakes Passage
Beginning at around 11:00 p.m. last evening, we had a rock and roll ship. Drakes Passage is noted for its challenging seas. Slept very well, and the motion continues this morning - very funny - passengers do similar dances in their walks, unable to control the direction they mean to take. Sometimes we hold on for dear life! On a scale of 1 to 10, the ocean swells today are rated at about a 3. We have been in worse seas - neither one of us is experiencing mal de mer - yet!
Today we have some work to do. At 9:45 a.m. we meet with our color group (red) to get instruction on departure from the ship to the zodiacs. Then we must get all of our clothing ready for our first landing on Antarctica TOMORROW!!!! At 11:00 a.m. we take all outer clothing previously worn, to a meeting where it all gets a biological check to be certain that there is nothing (seeds, soil, etc.) that will be left in Antarctica and compromise the ecology or the penguins and other wildlife. After we have double checked that our boots fit with all of the socks we put on our feet first, we will take those boots to the lockers below where they will reside each night and be ready for our next day's adventures. If boots don't fit well, then we will go to the boot exchange later in the day.
We have a beautiful, sunny day today. Although the sea is choppy, there are patches of blue sky, and the warm sun hitting my back through the window is lovely. Just back from the first briefing. Robin West, team leader, should give lessons to politicians. This was the most complete, interesting and informative 40-minute briefing ever attended. We are READY!!
Glacier Alley and Ushuaia, Argentina
I overslept! Wanted to be up at 6:00 a.m. to view all of Glacier Alley, and had to get dressed to view up on deck 10, because we are on the wrong side of the ship to see the greater number of glaciers. Best laid plans . . . slept until 7:30, crashed into my clothes and am now sitting upstairs looking at massive glaciers, some of which sweep down to the shore of this channel. I didn't bring my camera with me, so will have to trust Adolfo to take photos. There appears to be a dusting of fresh snow on the nearer mountains, and further away huge ice fields and smaller glaciers in wind swept mountain saddles make a most dramatic and freezing vista. No great photos this morning, as we slept through the best opportunities! However, I do have a photo of a glacier in this vicinity from 2003.
Glacier Alley 2003
It is raining again, and we were told last evening to expect temperatures in Ushuaia of about 40 degrees with 30 knot winds. It will be cold, wet and windy!!
A really great lecture this morning from one of the Expedition Team - all about the three kinds of penguin we will be seeing - and photos of the miles of penguin poop - will be very grateful for the full rubber boots that are assigned to us. Note that the boots do not come back to our suites, but are left below, cleaned and readied for the next day's adventures.
We docked in Ushuaia, and miracle of miracles, we both finally left the ship. Adolfo took a walk back and forth on the long dock, and I climbed the hill in town, walked around, peered into windows that held the usual tourist stuff. Feel much better for the walk. Tested out my arctic outer gear - it really is quite warm, almost too warm for weather in Ushuaia. Though cold and a bit damp with occasional spritzes, there was not the anticipated wind. Do believe that everyone in Ushuaia smokes. The smell of cigarettes hangs in the air, permeates every store, and wafts in the breeze when you pass someone on the street. Good to get back to the ship! Ushuaia is the capital city of Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina. It is commonly regarded as the southernmost city in the world and is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, bounded on the north by the Martial mountain range, and on the south by the Beagle Channel.
Half Moon Island, Antarctica
The air is redolent with penguin poop!!! The day is beautiful, no wind, temperatures of about 38 to 40 degrees with some sunshine. We are in the red group and the second to debark to the island. Zodiac ride from ship to shore should be very calm. Organized all of the clothing last evening, so just have to be certain of the order of layers to be worn. We each have two basic under layers, Getting into the "under armor" is like getting into an old fashioned girdle - takes lots of energy and is way too much clothing for indoors. After the two basic layers, we add on waterproof / windproof pants, a fleece vest. I've added a balaclava, which is a fleece circular scarf for around my neck, and a wool hat. . . . and we're not done yet! Next is the quilted under jacket, and the outer expedition jacket in bright orange and grey. On the left arm we fasten a red plastic arm band that holds our room key / identification information. This is scanned when we leave and return to the ship. Zippered pockets are everywhere in our expedition outerwear. All clothing must be zipped up with hood on, when we arrive at the debarkation lounge where a life vest is added - one that will automatically inflate if you land in the water. Life vest on, we move on to the outer room where numbered cages that correspond to our suite numbers hold our boots. Off come the normal shoes that we've squeezed on over two pair of heavy socks, shoes go into the cage and tall rubber boots go on. There are crew members there to help us climb into the boots. Have so many clothes on, can hardly bend over! We are now ready to board the zodiac. Before we board the zodiac, we step into an antiseptic bath to be certain the boots do not bring any unwanted bacteria on to the pristine island. We've been instructed on the proper arm grasp - the sailor's grasp - hand to arm. There is a crew or expedition member on each side of us as we are handed into the zodiac. It is an extreme pleasure to get out into the cooler air, because with all of the clothing we now are beginning to sweat. It is cool out on the water - nice!
Half Moon Island
Today the zodiacs have a wet landing, which means that when we get off the zodiac to go on to shore, we will be in the water. Surprisingly, the boots and outer pants keep us quite dry. The shore is full of gravel and rocks. We climb a hill to the rookeries where Chinstrap Penguins are noisily greeting us. Funny sounds between a bark and a chirp. On the beach is also a huge furry seal lolling in the sunshine. Two months ago, this island was fully covered in show and ice. Just a short time later and now there is not much snow. What remains is slushy and slimy, mixed with the penguin guano (poop), except at the top of the island that still has a fair amount of snow Footing is treacherous. Adolfo had a tough time on the uneven terrain. One of the guests leaving the island loaned Adolfo his walking stick, and that helped tremendously. Nice of Robert to do that! Half Moon Island is one of the most beautiful sites in the South Shetlands. Sharp craggy slabs of rock covered in brilliant orange, yellow and black lichens provide nesting sites for Chinstrap penguins who have some of the best views around. Glacier covered Livingston Island is visible from most points of the island. A large, active Chinstrap penguin colony (over 3,000 breeding pairs) is the main attraction and there is an Antarctic cormorant colony on the southern tip of the island. I've gone on ahead of Adolfo and let him progress at his own pace. He is the photographer and today the opportunities are boundless. The adjacent island is covered with glacier and ice, there are blue skies, clouds, animals - now if I could only upload the photos with this weak signal, I could publish this journal! I've just downloaded Adolfo's photos to my computer, and find that he did not take one photo of a Chinstrap Penguin!!! Better take my camera in future!!
Adolfo / Half Moon Island
Though each group has an hour on shore, if one has had enough of the adventure, there is always a zodiac waiting to take people back to the ship. Have unzipped everything that I can open, and it is still warm - not at all what we expected.
Half Moon Island
The little penguins are not at all shy. They walk right up to you. We have learned the penguin etiquette - move slowly so as not to frighten them, speak softly, do not cross the path of a penguin because you might get between the animal and the chicks. At this point in their growth, chicks are not quite definable as they are almost adult size. If you are a penguin expert, you can tell by their behavior. It is most fun to watch a penguin descending the slope -anywhere from one to four steps, and then a jump with both feet to the next stable rock. This procedure is repeated until the penguin reaches its destination.
Chinstrap Penguin
With all of the muck and slime present, penguins beautiful white chests are mostly soiled. The white is only pristine as they come out of the ocean, and before long, they are ready for another bath.
Livingston Island
Speaking of baths, when we get back on the ship from the zodiac, our boots and lower trousers are pressure washed to be certain that we do not bring any guano back on to the ship. The elevator in which we are transported back to the boot lockers is lined in plastic for cleanliness of the ship. We have been told that if any guano get on to the carpet, it must be cut out and replaced with a new patch because of the odor that cannot be washed out. Back on the ship, all arctic gear stowed away - still warm from our too many layers of clothing, we decide to eat lunch out at the grill. Though we stayed the course, by the time we finished lunch, we were bundled in blankets and still cold. At the daily briefing, we are told that tomorrow the temperatures will be below zero!!! We mustn't believe that today's temperatures are at all the norm for this part of the world. Everyone will be going to bed early to night, because the first group will be leaving the ship at 6:00 a.m.. We will be in the Antarctic Sound tomorrow.
Antarctic Sound (or instead – Weddell Sea)
Gentoo Penguin
Though cautioned at last evening's briefing, we were all spoiled by yesterday's weather. But, this is the Antarctic - all of today's plans have been cancelled due to weather. The first group was scheduled to leave the ship at 6:00 a.m. to either land in the midst of a Gentoo Penguin population, or be taken by zodiac on a cruise of the ice. This was scheduled for the Antarctic Sound. So instead, we are cruising the Weddell Sea - beautiful scenery in the distance, and many floating ice sculptures in the sea. Some of the tabular icebergs that have broken off various ice shelves look like giant mesas.
Gentoo Penguin
At 5:30 a.m., with apologies to all because of the loud announcement piped into our rooms, the expedition leader announced that the Captain had cancelled the day's tours - too dangerous. At that hour, the seas were rough, temperatures were below zero, and winds were already at 20 knots and rising. Some went back to sleep - others (us) looked out the window at the huge masses of floating ice we were passing. So..... a great morning to catch up on my journal. Managing to upload photos quite well if I stay in Seabourn Square - the signal must be stronger here than in our room. There will also be lectures, and various activities scheduled as the day progresses. Another possibility today was to view the Weddell Seal - a relatively large and abundant true seal with a circumpolar distribution surrounding Antarctica. It is estimated that they are approximately 800,000 in number!! Cute little guys below. Thanks to Google Images!!
Weddell Seals
Cruising the Weddell Sea
The day that began so cruelly, with all activities off ship cancelled, has turned into a beautiful sailing day, albeit still brutally cold and windy, but with the sun shining, and vistas in the distance of towering snow-capped mountains. A little while ago we had an announcement from the Captain that we were approaching a tabular iceberg, approximate size, one mile by two miles! That's pretty big. Here are photos that I took. In reviewing the photos, wish I could convey the size and beauty of this gorgeous hunk of ice. It is approximately one hundred feet above the sea and approximately 900 feet below the sea, currently stuck on the bottom (it's shallow here). The iceberg has cracked in half, but both halves are still anchored to the sea bottom. These photos are different sides of the same iceberg.
And then, while having a manicure, a whale (think it was a humpback) about one mile out did a show for us - jumping in and out of the water - all sorts of maneuvers - such fun!
Cuverville Island, Antarctica
Beautiful Blue Ice
Began this cruise by losing (and finding!) my new iPhone. Three days ago had a facial, and had to remove my cross and put it into a locker. As luck would have it, I forgot the cross in the locker. When I discovered it was missing, went to Seabourn Square and reported my stupidity. It was immediately returned to me, having been turned in to lost and found.
Two days ago, I wore my beautiful pink pearls to dinner. From the earrings that came with the strand, I'd created two drops to attach to my diamond studs. When I got back to the room, one of the pearls was missing from an earring. Back to Seabourn Square to report second loss on this cruise. They made an entry in the log and said they would return it if found.
Last night I went to the Casino, and checked the seat where I'd played poker the night previous - there was my pearl under the stool! Am I lucky?!?!? Not only did I recover that pretty pink pearl, but had a very lucky hand at poker and went to bed a winner!
This morning we woke to find our ship anchored off Cuverville Island. The vistas are stunning. Feel I should be calling this part of the journal "Fifty Shades of White". The sky is overcast. Mirroring that sky is a silvery white sea, with floating debris from the nearby icebergs and glaciers. The snow and glaciers we see on shore are white, tinged with color from grey to turquoise. The silvery white sea surface is broken by hundreds of Gentoo penguins enjoying the frigid waters. This morning we have two choices, or we can participate in both. There will be a fifteen minute landing on shore amidst one of the largest Gentoo penguin populations in Antarctica, and/or, a one hour zodiac cruise into and throughout the ice of the island where waterways have been created by the melt. Adolfo will be doing the cruise and I'll be doing both! In 30 minutes, we have to return to our suite (after I finish coffee!) to begin the process of dressing in ALL our clothing. It is 38 degrees outside and fortunately, at the moment, there is no wind.
Thought we would do both the zodiac and the landing, but we were close enough to the island to enjoy the penguins from the zodiac, and at the end of the zodiac ride, we were truly frozen.
The colors on the snow and rock are beginning to become evident as the snow and ice melts. We learned today that when we see pinkish snow, it is not necessarily from the penguin excrement. If one spots huge fields of pink snow not near penguins, then this snow has an algae blooming on its surface. There is also some rusty and some green colored algae. Here are some photos from out zodiac cruise.
While we were in the zodiac, we spotted a furry seal, a leopard seal (rare) in the water, who seemed just as interested in us as we were in him. He was huge and is a predator of the local penguins, especially of the new chicks as they begin learning how to swim and forage the krill on their own. And then we saw a pod of Minke (pronounced “minky”) whales – they are small, and very fast.
On the rock face of the cliffs, moss is beginning to grow in profusion – bright greens, golds and deep oranges – it’s quite something.
When we came on board from the zodiac ride circumnavigating Cuverville Island, we were frozen. Even after lunch, I could not get warm. Kept some of my outdoor clothing on, and then covered up on the bed. Slept for two hours to waken at 4:45 p.m. to find we were sailing in the middle of a blizzard. The snow was flying through the air horizontally, huge flakes, piling up on the railings. So bizarre!
Jumped into the shower to begin to get ready for our daily briefing and then dinner. Just a short time later, the captain announced that we should all don our cold weather gear and come up on to the pool deck. The crew was serving champagne and caviar – he had to be kidding! I was finally warm and caviar is just not that big a draw for me to get frozen once again!! There were many who accepted his invitation and arrived at the 6:30 briefing with wet hair and frozen noses.
This evening we were able to fill in due to a cancellation at Restaurant 2. This restaurant has not been a favorite of Adolfo, but he humors me a couple of times during the cruise so that I can have food prepared in the latest fashion. The chef uses lots of unusual foams, sauces, etc. The portions are very small, and usually each course arrives in small portions (2 or 3 selections to a course) and we’re instructed to eat from left to right. It is a very small venue with seating for only 30 diners. We were lucky to have a table right next to the floor-to-ceiling windows and were able to view whales, seals and birds during our dinner.
As Seabourn has done on other cruises where we were present on Valentine’s Day, every female guest is handed a beautiful, long stemmed, red rose when entering the dining room. A very nice touch!
Here’s the menu:
· First Course: Chef’s Cocktail, Caviar in the Cloud, Foggy Potatoes
· Second Course: Cowboy Roll – Seared Flank Steak, Portobello, Sesame Sauce; Barbequed King Salmon Roll – Jalapeno, Cucumber, Melted Mozzarella, Wasabi Mayo; Duck Confit Pop – Roasted Pepper Relish, Creamy Chili Dip.
· Third Course: Tea Smoked Game Presse, Chestnut Spaetzle; Porcini and Chestnut Cappuccino; Honey Spiced Squab and Fig Empanada.
· Fourth Course: Floating Lobster, Pesto Cream, Red Pepper Fondue, Lime Froth.
· Grilled Beef Tenderloin, Forest Mushrooms, Truffled Emulsion
· Dessert: Apricot Beignets, Citrus Compote, Calvados Ice Cream
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Adolfo and I both thought that this was the best menu we’d ever had in all of the years we’ve been dining in Restaurant 2 on the Seabourn ships. We will go again on this trip.
Neko Harbor and LeMaire Passage, Antarctica
There have been so many changes in the last several days, due to major and instantaneous changes in weather, sea and wind conditions. We have learned to just enjoy where we are cruising, and make the best of the changes. This captain and crew have our best interests and safety at heart - and yet, the captain of this ship wants us to have the best possible experience on this adventure. He spoke early on in the trip that this cruise is particularly challenging to the crew, and we've heard that he's at the bridge almost 24 / 7 with very little sleep. We are very lucky to have him at the helm.
We woke moored in Neko Harbor. I always think of harbors as a place for sheltering, but we are out in raw weather. Today is scheduled zodiac tours, a visit to yet another Gentoo penguin rookery, and a walk on a glacier. However . . . weather conditions are poor - rainy, snowy, winds of 35 knots and increasing. The temperatures hover in the mid 30’s, but with the wind chill, the temps will be 10 to 15 degrees below zero.
Neko Harbor climb
Zodiac tours are cancelled. Anyone wanting to go ashore to see the rookery and walk on the glacier received the following warnings: Double wrap all camera equipment because the ride ashore will be wet – passengers will get wet; remember that once in the zodiac today you must hold on to the rope; dress in everything warm (hadn’t we already done that!?!?!), take walking sticks because to get on to the glacier, one must walk a slippery trail of ice and snow at a 20 degree incline … and what about coming down that trail on the way back? In the photo above, you can see the trail curving out to the right from the center and then back to the left. Final warning - if you have any walking disability, please stay on board. The reason for climbing up to the glacier is for the beautiful views, however visibility is minimal today. At our age and physical condition (or lack thereof!), believe today is beyond both of us – we are staying aboard. Luckily, the ice and snow we can see from the ship is very beautiful. Every once in a while, a few rays of sun peek through and the snow and ice views create dramatically changing views. As people returned to the ship, we learned that when getting off the zodiacs on shore, you had to push your boots down through huge ice blocks to get purchase on the ground beneath the ice and water - doesn't that sound like fun!!?!?
We can view the zodiacs loading from our suite balcony, and a fewer than the usual number of passengers seem to be taking the opportunity to go ashore. Certain that soon Seabourn Square will fill up with coffee and hot chocolate drinkers, and the baristas will be very busy!
The Expedition Team is really wonderful. I just watched one zodiac with no passengers try to cross some swift running currents to get over to the ice and he struggled and struggled to get nowhere. Then on the way back, think he overshot the ship because he was running with the current. So you see, even though we won’t be going ashore, there is still drama and entertainment.
Am writing as fast as the wi-fi allows!! Weather and location have not allowed for too much these last days. The crew aboard this ship is outstanding – and trouble! When the day’s plans are changed for the negative, in order to keep everyone’s spirits up, they ply us with food and beverage!!! Right now members of the crew are circling Seabourn Square offering freshly made, still warm, miniature raspberry-filled donuts and churros. Right behind that server is another with a tray of hot chocolate – indeed TROUBLE!! FYI, a favorite of very cold passengers is hot chocolate with rum – have yet to try that one!
We’ve just finished lunch, while watching the intrepid passengers who went ashore and climbed the glacier. We’ve watched climbers stumble and some fall and sit awhile as they gain their strength to finish their ascent or descent. It has now begun to sleet – rain and snow mixed together. So happy that we stayed aboard.
More changes announced this afternoon, due to changing weather conditions. We are hoping to cruise through Lemaire Passage - impossible at one end due to currents and wind, but perhaps we can go around to the other end and go through the opposite way - which is what we did. We were cautioned that perhaps the ice would pack up in the channel and we might have to turn around and go back out. However, our luck held. Absolutely stunning scenery which we viewed from the back of the ship, and then from our suite balcony, all bundled up, so that we could drink wine while watching the black granite cliffs filled with snow and ice, the seals asleep (some with their pups) on passing ice floes, and penguins swimming merrily through the water. We even saw a couple of Minke whales!
These photos below can't begin to portray the beauty and grandeur of this region. It takes our breath away. Occasionally we see avalanches in the distance, and lots of small calving from the icebergs.
Lemaire Passage
Waterboat Point on Gonzalez Videla Station, Antarctica
This station is manned by the Chilean Air Force (curious) and is their country’s presence in the Antarctic. There are 20 very handsome, young Chilean service men at the station and they come for six-month stints. FYI, there is no facility here for planes! In the briefings, I’ve somehow missed what they do during their exile to Waterboat Point, though I’ve just read in a booklet that Adolfo received at Gonzalez Videla Station that this team is responsible for the air space over this part of Antarctica – amazing since most of the time there is no visibility! There is no choice given to those who serve here – believe the selection of personnel is random. The Chileans were most hospitable to all guests, answered our questions, opened up their living quarters for viewing so we could experience their lives (sort of). The captain then invited all of them on to the ship for a lunch. They seemed very happy to be eating aboard the ship! I would be as well!
Molting Mama
Though we’ve had other stops in Antarctica, those stops have been on islands so this is the first time we’ve set foot on the Antarctica mainland.
Gonzalez Videla Station sits right in the middle of a Gentoo penguin population – thousands!!! The chicks here are still quite young, and many huddled very near their mamas to keep warm. Many of the adult penguins have begun their molting period – these are penguins who have no young to nurture, probably because the predatory birds have taken the eggs, or snatched the newborn chicks. While molting, penguins cannot go into the sea, so those who have no young to nourish begin their molting prior to those with young. While molting, their feathers are not oiled and they would become water logged and probably drown if they entered the sea. When they’re through molting, the Gentoos then begin the process of oiling their bodies from an oil gland that each one has – very complicated, and Lord knows, am no penguin expert! But, this oiling process keeps them from getting water logged when they enter the sea. If you need to know more, please Google!
Cute (poopy) chicks and mamas
All penguins young and mature, are covered with mud and penguin poop. The penguins that go out into the sea are only clean for the first few steps back on land, and are soon dirty and stinky once again.
Today we walked among these critters. They are not afraid of humans and studies have shown that we don’t have any negative impact on their social structure, nor their reproducing. All of that pink stuff is Gentoo penguin guano, and to say it smells bad is not a strong enough description! The chicks and most of the adult penguins are covered with the stuff!
Penguins in Pink Poop
It was very cold today, with some light showers. The stench from the penguins permeated the ship. Everyone who came back on board stunk – even though we were far off shore, if you stuck your nose out on your balcony it was just awful. The temperatures today are in the mid 30’s – can’t imagine how smelly this place would be on a warmer day!
We’ve hung our outdoor clothing in the bathroom, as it has the best ventilation in our suite – the “eau de poop” is slowly dissipating, especially as we’ve left the vicinity of this stop, and are out in open sea once again. Remember that we are pressured washed when we come back on to the ship. There is no evidence that we are carrying anything on with our boots or outer clothing – and yet the odors persist.
Mama with hungry chicks
Our ship at anchor
Blessed Mother and Baby watching over all!
Peterman Island, Antarctica
It's a beautiful day in Antarctica. We woke up to blue skies and sunshine - so lovely. Had a very bad night with lack of sleep - happens sometimes. So, Adolfo is going solo today, and has left to go on a zodiac cruise of the region, get glimpses of the Adelie penguins and see the local ice - these photos are from Google images. Certain that Adolfo will bring back more.
Adelies
We were greeted by blue skies and sunshine. Later in the day the Expedition Team would tell us that it was the first sunrise experienced in the three months of Antarctic cruises – really beautiful. Adolfo has elected not to go ashore and tackle the snow and ice, but because of such calm seas, the zodiac will be able to get quite close to shore.
The smell of penguin poop is once again in the air!
Adolfo left and I went back to bed to finally sleep through the morning. Up for lunch, and then resting the remainder of the day.
Will let Adolfo's photos speak for themselves. (8/3/2022 - N.B., As I transfer these old photos onto this new blog site, I marvel at the change in photograph quality from 2015 to 2022 - amazing how much clarity has improved!)
Gentoo Penguins
Because of the beautiful weather, the captain has elected to travel further south and establish a new record for Seabourn. The Quest is now the first ship of the Seabourn fleet to travel to this southern region. After attaining his record, we reversed course and traveled toward our destination, the Falklands. It will take three days at sea. Along the way, the captain found us extraordinary ice formations, bergs floating merrily on their melting course. We got so close to one behemoth that I felt we could reach out and touch it – well, almost! It appeared to be three times higher than our ship and was so beautiful, it is difficult to believe these beauties can be so deadly.
Last Iceberg
At 6:30 p.m. we had our final briefing from the Expedition Team. This team is so extraordinary. Feel that we had the crème de la crème of Antarctic experts. Not only were they knowledgeable, but they turned somewhat dry and difficult to understand topics into entertaining learning experiences for all of us.
As an aside, one story from the team is that when the zodiac cruise was described as “circumnavigating” a particular island and when it was completed, one passenger said: “Well, you’ve gone ‘round the island, when will you circumnavigate it?”
Later in the day the captain found a huge pod of humpback whales that were cavorting nearby - breeching, feeding on krill and showing their magnificent flukes - lots of spouts visible in the water. Though most of the ship's passengers went to the forward lounge, it's always such a crush that we stayed in our suite, and from the balcony saw quite a few whales.
These photos cannot begin to convey the drama and majesty of this region - it really is amazing.
And, so we say goodbye to Antarctica - feeing blessed to have experienced this region in our lifetime - something neither one of us had much discussed prior to Adolfo announcing that this would be our next trip! He did good! We will miss the beautiful floating ice sculptures.
At Sea
Today is one of three days at sea as we work our way to Port Stanley in the Falklands. The last cruise to Port Stanley we were unable to dock because of the weather, so the captain has already warned us that we take our chances.
Think I’m getting a cold and have a scratchy throat, so not having to do anything is rather nice. Given our last week of weather, it’s hardly surprising. Am drinking tons of hot water, lemon and honey – feel as though I could float alongside the ship!!
Today I gathered up all of our Arctic wear - layers of basic clothing, heavy coats, socks, vests, etc., and packed them away in a suitcase under our bed. We had gear strewn all over everything, so the suite looks much tidier and the chairs can now hold us rather than “stuff”!!
For a special request, the Chef is making four of us Risotto Milanese – will let you know how it is.
Just back from dinner after having to wade through an awful Risotto Milanese – way too much butter, not enough saffron, and rice positively crunchy. There is only one area on these ships that always falls short for us, and that is the cooking of pasta and risotto – but we do keep trying!
I’m just getting back to trying to update the journal, and it is Saturday, February 21. Have been sick the last three days – the upside to this is that I’ve had virtually nothing to eat for two of those days, just living on bread sticks and Sprite – however, this kind of diet has no virtue attached to it! The downside, besides being ill, is that there’s been no wine in my diet for all that time. Today, had my first full meal at lunch – almost one whole hamburger! Am feeling better, though February 19 and 20 are rather lost to me!
Port Stanley, Falkland Islands
Port Stanley, Falkland Islands
Though the day began with a bit of sunshine, it soon clouded over. We had some sprinkles and the weather was cold. Most guests came back saying that there was nothing to see in the port, but today I spoke with people who said that if you like yarn, or hand-knit sweaters, there were tremendous buys there – but now it’s way too late.
This area is very barren, filled with thousands of birds and penguins. Some guests went on an all-day jaunt to view the King penguins. The Rock Hopper Penguins had migrated to somewhere else and were unavailable for viewing, but as with everywhere else we've visited, there were lots of Gentoos.
This area apparently has few new permanent residents. The children go away to university but don’t come back to the area. There is a wonderful sign at the airport as you depart, and it is addressed to the women leaving the Falklands - it states: "You will not be so attractive once you leave the Falklands"!!
Today the famous galley lunch took place, where there are food stations throughout the galley, and everywhere you look in the dining room, there are food stations for salads, desserts, vodkas – so much food.
We played Team Trivia, and opted to skip the galley lunch. It didn't seem right to take my coughing self into the kitchen where they're preparing food for everyone else. We bundled up and went to the pool deck to eat outside in the fresh air – there was a bit of sunshine, too! Am looking forward to the warming weather.
I then joined a 4:00 p.m. stitchery group that meets every day to needlepoint. We even have one gentleman in the group.
Tonight there is an early show with a comedian and the ship’s entertainment crew. Then I’m coming back to the suite for room service light fare.
Montevideo, Uruguay
Well . . . yesterday was a total loss! Visited by ship's doctor and nurse - long story, but won't bore you with it here. Adolfo and I were both confined to our room, put on Tamiflu and cough syrup with codeine for me, instructed to rest and take tons of fluids. Drank so much nearly floated out to sea!! Poor Adolfo received the confinement as well, just because he's married to me - a questionable perq!!!
At any rate, we have just docked in Montevideo, nurse has called and with the update, we've been released from jail. Weather is warm and balmy, and though we won't leave the ship, we will go up to the grill on the pool deck for lunch. Though we've been to Montevideo before, I think after we pick up new passengers in Buenos Aires tomorrow, we'll then sail back to Montevideo for another visit.
Have just received a thumbnail drive as a gift from Seabourn which I expect will have video and photos from our Antarctic experience. So, I might be sharing more photos with you after I take a look. I have since looked at this wonderful gift, and the file is too large for me to email, or include in this blog, so will have to save it for when we get home. Additionally, and still about Antarctica, my good friend, Kim, spotted this job description for a postal worker in Antarctica - you must read it for a good giggle. It's spot-on (as my Brit friends aboard this ship would say), and the pigeon poop is a big factor - just so you know that my previous "smelly" comments were not exaggerated!
Skyline and gorgeous clouds - Montevideo, Uruguay
Am happy for the release from our room as we have a wonderful Tango troupe coming aboard this evening. Although the evening is a formal one, believe we'll forego the fancy clothing and dine simply, either in our room, or on deck.
The tango group was outstanding! There were two couples who danced, and one tremendously beautiful and talented singer accompanied by a pianist, concertina and bass. We will have a chance to view this troupe again, I believe day after tomorrow, as we are returning to Montevideo for one more day after picking up new passengers in Buenos Aires tomorrow.
Buenos Aires, Argentina and back to Montevideo
Today we bid fond adieu to new friends who will be leaving the ship. We've had some special times with Nancy and Paul who live in Newport Beach and are very sorry to see them leave the cruise. We hope to see them again when we are home. There are others, too, that we will hope to travel with once again. And then, there are passengers who are going on, as we are, most to Manaus in the Amazon, and a few even on to Ft. Lauderdale. The photo here shows buildings that have sprung up since our last visit 13 years ago - all quite modern and shiny and tall. More buildings are currently in construction phase. Have taken advantage of the quiet ship and made an appointment to get my hair colored and trimmed. Believe the pull of the South Pole has made it grow twice as fast as usual!! The beauticians aboard these ships are really pretty good at helping us maintain our hair. They follow existing cuts (should that be your desire), or can give you something fresh and new. Have learned my lesson on the "fresh and new". Did that once and will not do it again - such a disaster! Tons of new guests came on today - we haven't seen any familiar faces in the new group, but perhaps we will find someone - or they'll find us!
We get to park our ship in the most interesting places. This port is humming with industry and the shipping of containers - a very busy place - and we're smack dab in the middle of all the noise!
Sunset as we dined
As we left Buenos Aires for Montevideo, we enjoyed a wonderful evening dining out on the pool deck with our Belgian friends, Gerry and Claire. Charming people! Then it got a bit chilly, so we all retired fairly early - but we do lose an hour tonight. Every day for the last three days there has been a change in the time - either one hour back, or one hour forward. Keeps us on our toes.
It's the next morning, we are back in Montevideo - and Adolfo has gone on a City bus tour. I begged off the tour and am still in "rest" mode and staying aboard the ship. The weather, though warm, is beginning to be overcast, and it looks like we might have a bit of rain. The following are photos of Adolfo's city tour of Montevideo today.
Two Idyllic Days at Sea
Should have known when I woke to this incredible sunrise this morning that it would be an "ace" day! Have just spoken with Christina. Today is her birthday, and she received the ultimate gift in a clean MRI! WOO HOO!!!!
The weather yesterday and today is absolutely ideal for cruising. Sunrises continue to be breathtaking, skies blue, waters calm and weather balmy. This morning we enjoyed breakfast out on the back deck.
On the last portion of the cruise we were members of the Beagle Team in Trivia. This time, from Buenos Aires, new teams have formed and we're now Bilge Rats. We did poorly yesterday, questions were really tough and there wasn't one smart one in the whole team of ten. Today at noon, we'll try for the second round. These Trivia days will continue until Manaus, on all sea days, when there will once again be a shift in the passenger list. Lots going home in Manaus. We're thinking that the ship will not be full for the Caribbean portion of this cruise.
Some great questions:
1. In what year was the movie, Jaws, released?
2. What musical duo were featured in a movie released in the 1990's - name of movie was Topsy Turvy?
3. Which country, after the USA, sent the most troops into the Iraq/Kuwaiti war?
4. In which Ian Fleming book was the character, Edgar, the dog, introduced?
At any rate, we continue to rest, watch good movies, play, eat and drink - an ideal vacation - yes? Last two days I've enjoyed Caipirinhas - so good and made with Cachaca, a local rum which is a product of sugar cane - they are addictive and go down just like lemonade!! All similarities end with the taste!!
Sunrise
Answer to Trivia Questions:
1. 1975
2. Gilbert and Sullivan
3. Saudi Arabia
4. Chitty Chitty Bang Bang
Ilhabela, Sao Sebastiao Island
Rain over Ilhabela
Off the coast between Santos and Rio de Janeiro, this large island, 131 square miles, has become the "in place" to be. At weekends and on holidays, hordes of Paulistanos (?) take the ferry to its glistening shores, filling the hotels and bars, hiking through the jungle and swimming in pools fed by waterfalls. Ilhabela, or Beautiful Island, earns its name from its volcanic peaks, beautiful beaches, dense tropical jungle and some 360 waterfalls. Almost 85% of the island has been turned into a park and Unesco-protected biosphere, which shelters a remarkable profusion of plant and animal life including toucans and capuchin monkeys. It is also the home of the famous "Bell Rocks" which make a shrill ringing sound when struck with a stone.
Rain over Ilhabela
We are up early and have already had breakfast out on the back deck. Just before we finished, a huge black cloud caught up with us and it has been pouring rain like a waterfall from the sky. What we could see of the island prior to the rain is that it's a verdant and lushly forested island. Now, however, the mist has descended and we can see nothing but the rain. From the ship, the island appears to be a haven for wealthy Brazilians, with big boats and big houses. It resembles St. Tropez in the Mediterranean. There are several tours scheduled today, hikes to waterfalls, catamaran sailing to one of the beaches that is only accessible by boat, and a jungle walk. All tours carry caveats that if you are sensitive to bug bites, perhaps these outings might not be for you!! We will get off the ship once the tenders begin operating, and walk about the shops, if there are any nearby. Adolfo is loving this cruise because there have been no easy places to shop. The credit cards are resting!!! Never did make it ashore. Just when we thought we’d have a rain-free window, the skies would open up again and we'd be inundated. Finally just gave up. We sat out on the pool deck, under cover, and let the rain freshen everything around us. Stayed there for a grill lunch, and then spent the rest of the afternoon out on our own balcony, or napping. Those who did go ashore and did the walks through the rain forest, and to the waterfall, got more than they bargained for - came back soaked. At least it wasn't cold!
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Hot and steamy today - perfect for the Girl from Ipanema, but not for us!! We leave the ship shortly for a day with four other passengers, in a rented van with guide. Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer) is on the agenda, but am not certain that we'll see much else. We've already been warned that the city is one large DETOUR. Rio is working feverishly to ready the city for the 2016 Olympics. Additionally, it is a birthday celebration of sorts for Rio. Add to that the fact that the city is full of bad guys who are waiting to strip tourists of any jewelry. We have been warned to put everything in the ship's safe and go ashore with nothing that will catch the eye of a nefarious character. We are also hoping that we will have time for a stop at Stern Jewelers. Last time we were here we shopped for some pretty and inexpensive baubles. We shall see - will report more later.
What a day!! Up to Corcovado - we were one of the early groups to hit the top and it was still crowded. Weather is sweltering, but to be at the foot of this huge statute of Christ is well worth the effort. Because of the 450th anniversary of the founding of the city of Rio, there were a group of young people reciting the Rosary, and again in the small chapel at the back of the statue, the same thing was occurring.
Overhead, there were eagles soaring, and the two legged variety on hang gliders. If you figure that Corcovado is at 2,000 feet, and these guys were much higher than that, they must have been soaring at 3,000 feet. We know that they didn't have to worry about running out of gas, but really, how can they KNOW that they'll continue to have necessary wind. Perhaps those people saying the Rosary were not praying for the anniversary, but for those crazy nuts who were soaring overhead!! The head and hands of the statue were a gift from France to Brazil. Then, it is my understanding that the Brazilians built a scaffolding, and began to build Corcovado, from the top down (?) - truly amazing. The word "corcovado" actually means "hunchback". Still trying to figure that out. Then we went off to Stern's Jewelers and a couple of us bought pretty baubles. Then it was off to lunch at Churrascaria Palace - in the Ipanema District - a Brazilian BBQ. This lunch experience was worth the whole day's excursion. We sat at table and then began the constant presentation of foods for our tasting. Beginning with delectable seafood platters consisting of calamari, shrimp, oysters, etc., - all sorts of tiny delectables from the sea, all BBQ'd. Bowls of battered onion rings, French fries, rice and a local starch (manioc) were also available. Believe manioc is also the substance from whence comes tapioca - have dredged up that bit of trivia from somewhere. Probably was a question in a trivia event!
Passion Fruit Caipirinha
We'd been told on the ship that if we had a chance to enjoy a Passion Fruit Caipirinha, to jump at it! When we learned that this restaurant made them, we all had one, and then another one.
Waiter cleared entire table of 8 in one fell swoop
We could have stopped there after the assorted delectables from the sea, but then came roast leg of lamb, lamb chops, chicken wings, chicken hearts, sausages (all kinds). Either by cart, or by skewer, the meat is brought to your table, and then to your plate, where you help the carver by taking the piece of meat that is meant for you with your personal mini tongs. Am hoping that the photos we took will help to recreate our experience for you. When I refer to "carver" I mean CARVER!!! Every waiter has a knife the size of a machete and comes to your table to carve the meat and place on your plate. No one dining in the restaurant makes any quick moves!
And then there were pork ribs, pork butt, sirloin of beef, tenderloin of beef - if it can be barbecued, we ate it!
All the while we were oohing and aahing over the food, not only the taste, but the never-ending variety and abundance, a very talented piano player was serenading us, and sometimes playing the flute. He was so good, and the music was all Brazilian. We took over 2 hours for this never-to-be-forgotten meal, and no one had any room for dessert. Oops, I failed to mention that we also got a few grilled veggies - but who had room!! This restaurant is a meat lover's paradise!
When we were ready to leave the restaurant, the pianist began playing a Brazilian song that everyone in the restaurant (except us!) knew. All were singing and clapping their hands - so much fun - everyone waving goodbye and blowing kisses.
Ceiling of St. Sebastian Cathedral
The rest of the day would be anti-climactic - we saw the Cathedral of St. Sebastian, assorted parks and neighborhoods, the Opera House, the Library, and more that I've already forgotten. We'd hoped to get to the fruit market, but that didn't happen.
Police are everywhere in Rio, especially during this celebration of the city's 450th year. Every night there is a concert somewhere which brings in crowds of drinking and drugged people, and you know what happens next. Whenever the police stop on corners, or in the middle of the street, they always seem to leave their lights flashing - they are everywhere.
Rio Opera House
Also today on one of the beaches, either Copacabana or Ipanema, were the finals for the Olympics in beach volleyball between the US and Brazil. It is our understanding that the Brazilian men took the medal and the US women also took a medal. So all's well that ends evenly. Had a little trouble watching the hordes of people entering the surf at Ipanema and Copacabana, when we've been told on our last visit and again this visit, that sewage from the city goes into the sea - and apparently it is untreated. In the poorer sections of the city, the sewage is open to the sky. This is definitely a problem. So now, we're back on the ship - am having another Caipirinha - just an ordinary, run-of-the-mill drink, a handful of potato chips - and that's going to be my dinner tonight. Am still full from lunch. In a little while, the band will be on deck, playing Brazilian tunes, dessert will be a special presentation under the stars - but I fear by that time I'll be sound asleep. Hope to find some time to upload photos for this blog and get it published. If not tonight - then tomorrow!
(Because of the length of this blog, it will be continued in Part II)
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