I bought this beautiful Italian Ceramica at Sbigoli in Florence on this trip, and it now sits on the island in my kitchen!
DAY ONE – Wednesday, June 14, 2017
After a sleepless night (what did I forget, what didn’t I pack, did I prep the house and plants correctly, etc.) was picked up in the morning at 11:00 by Tony who whisked me to San Francisco where we picked up son, David, and then off to the airport. Plenty of time when we arrive, as our flight leaves at 3:05 in the afternoon.
All went well (almost!) at check-in. I received my boarding pass not only for the business class seat to Frankfurt, but also to the connecting flight to Florence. On the other hand, we were informed that David was on standby because the flight was overbooked. We’d have to wait until they were to board to see if his name was called. WHAT?!?!?! These seats were not bought with miles, but straight out! We would wait.
After a time in the lounge, we went down to the gate. The people were everywhere, some already standing in line to get seat assignments. What to do? We were sent upstairs for the boarding of business class and waited. Flight was called to board – David didn’t have a ticket. Back and forth – upstairs and downstairs. David told me to go ahead and get on the plane – I refused to go without him.
Finally, we both went downstairs and waited at the ticket counter. We just stood there waiting with our passports and boarding passes in hand (David’s temporary!). Just when we’d given up, one lady reached for our passports with a smile, tore up both our tickets and boarding passes (WHAT?!?!) and promptly issued both of us new ones. We did end up with seats together.
Plane was late departing which gave us some concern as we originally had only 90 minutes to get to the correct gate at Frankfurt Airport for our connecting flight, but the pilot made up the time and we landed in Germany on time. Now to find the right gate.
DAY TWO – Thursday, June 15, 2017
If any of you have been through Frankfurt, you know how vast an area this terminal covers, but all seemed right with the world as we only had to traverse concourse A and we would arrive at B – to be specific – Gate B-3.
When we arrived at the entrance to B-3, we were stopped and told that this part of the airport was closed, and we’d have to go through all of Concourse A, then downstairs and backtrack through all of Concourse B to get to the correct gate. Off we went. The terminal was hot – very hot – and we were scrambling. The minutes to our departing flight were ticking off very rapidly.
When we arrived at the part of concourse that would lead us to the stairs down to concourse B, all pedestrian traffic stopped. Lines were about a block long – 4 lines. This was a passport check. The line moved very slowly, and we were still not certain as to whether or not we were headed in the correct direction. As we awaited our turn in line, others came up level with us in the line, and our line began to grow in width – as people crowded into places that were not meant for them. David was not happy and tried directing people to the rear of the line – it didn’t work!
Finally had passports checked and were directed to the stairs down to concourse B. When we arrived at Gate B-3, we were informed that the gate for departure had been moved. Wanted to just sit down and cry. Weather too hot, tired from lack of sleep and cranky. We headed for the elevator, up some floors – not certain how many. Lines for the elevator were too long. David grabbed my carry-on and his own, and we headed for the stairs. WE CLIMBED FIVE (5) FLIGHTS!!! I was truly dragging! We arrived at the correct gate of B-13 to find that our flight had been delayed 30 minutes – we were fine.
Finally boarded and arrived in Florence just prior to 3:00 p.m. To say that the weather is hot would not be a strong enough description. Weather is not only in the 90’s, but humidity is very high. The car I’d ordered to take us to the hotel was nowhere in sight – so we cabbed it into the city.
Hotel Relais Santa Croce is very beautiful, a 17th century building, once owned by a pope – can’t remember which one. Rooms are nicely appointed, and the common rooms are like a museum. Gorgeous ceilings with a variety of bas relief adorns not only the ceilings, but the walls as well. However, every time I leave the room I get lost. One time wound up out in the alley!!
We were so tired after the travel, that we had a quick shower and change, went out for a short walk and a light dinner, and so to bed. Was asleep prior to my head hitting the pillow.
DAY THREE: Friday, June 16, 2017
Son Stephen and Rose, with their children, Joe and Sofia, arrived via Air Berlin last night at midnight, and went immediately to the apartment of Rose’s sister, Margaret Ann, which is just around the corner from our hotel. It has always been a dream of Margaret Ann to have a place in Florence and that dream has finally come true!
They all slept in this morning. David and I went for a walk to Santa Croce, where we lit candles for all of our family who are no longer with us, and for my friend Susan B., who has suffered some broken bones. Then on to the Scuola de Cuoia (School of Leather) which is connected to the Church of Santa Croce.
Told the man in charge that I’d been here in 1980, bought a beautiful pair of black leather gloves, and still used them to this day. Mentioned that we’d been sent there by Sirio Galli, a man we knew in North Beach. His son then worked at the school. Galli? You mean Marcello? YES! That was his name.
Bought a small black woven leather bag and when I paid the bill, was given a very healthy discount in honor of Marcello! How nice is that!
We walked around a bit, and then went over to visit family at the apartment of Margaret Ann and her husband Edmond. The ladies with David went out to do a little shopping. Margaret Ann knows all of the best places, especially those that sell inexpensive pure linen. Bought some and wore it immediately – it’s baggy, wrinkled, and cool. Best of all it’s super cheap. As far as wrinkled, with this heat, everyone is wrinkled!!!
Then back to the apartment where for a few moments thought I was going to pass out. Must not stay out in the heat of the day. After I downed a quart of water, we got two cabs to a restaurant across town. Nice big lunch in the basement. We then all wandered back to our hotel where Rose, Margaret Ann and Sofia decided to do more shopping. I’d had enough. We'd done a tremendous amount of walking and I was finished!!!
David and I chose to refresh ourselves, then go down to the common rooms of the hotel for a drink and some small bites and an early night.
One more thing. Today Margaret Ann introduced me to a topical gel for pain (my ankle) and insisted that we go to the local pharmacia to purchase some. You can’t get it in America, because the stuff was originally made for horses. However, horses notwithstanding, I used the stuff liberally today and stayed on my feet. Will continue on with it, and perhaps buy a case of the stuff before I go home – even if I come back whinnying!!
DAY THREE: Saturday, June 17, 2017
Today’s the day that Stephen left at 4:00 a.m. to hike to San Gimignano. Think it’s some 30+ miles. Rose, Margaret Ann, and rest of family will meet him with car there for an overnight. Then he’s off tomorrow morning to hike to Siena where they will all stay for two nights. They return to Florence on Tuesday, I think.
David received a couple of texts from Steve early this morning that all was well, but don’t know if he’s heard anything further. It does seem a slight bit cooler today, so am hopeful that all will go well. As I write this, just got a text from David that he’s heard from Steve who has completed 15 miles today, but the heat and hills have beat him up pretty good – he’s okay. Crazy kid!!!
After breakfast this morning, David and I went out to wander. Love doing this, and he does as well. We must have walked several miles again, though toward 1:30, felt that we’d walked 10 miles! We are perspiring so much that we can’t seem to take in enough fluids.
David’s fun to be with. He’s easy as to what activity we do, or nothing at all, just wandering. We are saving museums for when John and family arrive from Rome on the 27th. Then we will all get 72 hour passes and Margaret Ann will give us the best tour possible! Just walking around town with her is great fun. She points out little things that we would normally pass without notice. Her knowledge is boundless, and her enthusiasm and humor are contagious.
Sandi and John: Bring really cool clothing!!! Or, come to Florence to buy linen – am buying trousers and tops for around $20 apiece – can’t beat that. There are men’s shirts as well!!
Went back for dinner at local trattoria for pizza and a salad. While we were eating we the sound of drums – but not celebratory – more like a dirge – big drums. There was a parade in honor of the calcio (soccer) tournament between the different quarters of Florence. This contest is truly rugged and often ends up in fisticuffs on the field. This year the “Blues” (Santa Croce) have already been banned from the rest of the contest, because they were so violent.
So, after we’d ordered our dinner, we ran to the corner to take photos of the pageantry. Everyone looked so serious and as David remarked, it was probably because they were going to war! I also thought that it was because temperatures were so high, and their costumes were so heavy, that they were really dragging!
DAY FOUR – Sunday, June 18, 2017
Big Day today! Fathers’ Day, In-laws’ anniversary, our anniversary (would have been 57 years) and father-in-law’s birthday. It’s difficult for me to ever forget June 18!! But I have to admit, that this one, was slightly easier than last year.
Was my intention to go to Mass at Santa Croce, light more candles, etc. David decided to go with me (yes, even without my asking!). We walked all around the church to find the entrance to Mass – nothing open – to which David countered with “Guess all the churches close on Sunday!”. So we set off to find an open church and before we knew it we were in front of the Duomo. Mass had just begun so that was a very nice experience. And then, after lighting appropriate candles for the day and date, we wandered some more.
Except for the fact that I know I’m missing tons of stuff because am so busy looking down at the street and sidewalks so that I don’t misstep – we are catching some wonderful sights. Additionally, I get to see all of the upchucking in the streets near the bars from the night before, and am able to skirt any dog droppings – so far, so good! David has reported that when he goes out for a very early morning walk, many young people are just then seeming to get home after a night of partying.
Wandered through the stalls – they seem to be everywhere, with every other purveyor carrying the same stuff. Many claiming that all of their wares are made in Florence – sure – via China!!
Had a nice dinner right near Santa Croce – Baldovino Ristorante. We thought the owner of the restaurant was probably bald and had gotten that way because he drank too much vino! Finally had some pasta – spaghetti with fresh cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and parmesan. Was absolutely delicious. Ate every bite!
DAY FIVE – Monday, June 19, 2017
David needed to get some gifts to take home and thought leather was a good idea. We could go back to the Scuola de Cuoia. . . or try to do some serious shopping at the Bottega Fiorentina. Decided on the latter and arrived at the shop when the owner was opening up. This is a family owned business for the last 60 years with production of beautiful leathers manufactured right outside of Florence. Found some wonderful goodies, and on sale. David did his shopping, too, and the whole shebang is being sent home to arrive after our return. The owner, Gianluca, was delightful, made us special coffee from orzo grain – different – but we were assured that it was very healthy. Served with fresh orange rind in it. Smelled wonderful!
More wandering which included a walk along the Arno River and window shopping on the Ponte Vecchio where all of the gold shops attract thousands of tourists. Bought nothing – how about that!
On the way back to the hotel found the most impressive gelato display and just couldn’t resist – so today my lunch was a scoop of pineapple and scoop of coconut – the coconut is so tasty it makes me want to swoon! I know – slightly dramatic! Must not go back there – it’s way too tempting.
For dinner, we planned to go up to Fiesole, a small town on the hillside above Florence. The hotel made reservations for us at 7:00 (when the restaurant opened) – La Reggia degli Etruschi. What they failed to tell us was that the taxi could only take us to the foot of the driveway of the hotel and we must walk the rest of the way. It was like walking up Green Street from Columbus Avenue in North Beach (TWICE!). By the time we arrived at the restaurant, couldn’t decide whether I needed a nap, or could eat a whole cow!
Dinner was quite wonderful! We sat at a small table for two, with the window open, and overlooking all of Florence and the hills beyond. On one side of us was a table with two young women from Boston and New York, and on the other side were two young men, both from New York. David ordered the filet mignon, I ordered eggplant ravioli.
While we were waiting for our food to arrive at table I watched the owner begin to take a bread basket to a table. As he swung the basket away, one piece of bread hit the floor. He picked it up and kissed it, then tucked it away in his hand – not back into the bread basket. I thought I might understand why this was done, but to be certain, asked his son the significance of kissing the bread. He said that it was something that his grandmother had always done, now father did it, and all waiters did it, when unused bread had to be thrown away at the end of the day. It has to do with “give us this day our daily bread” and “the body of Christ”. One pays homage to the symbolism – I like it!
We have come to realize that Florentines do not like to cook their meat – in fact, it barely touches the flame and is red/purple inside. The quality of the meat is really wonderful, and it is tender, but is barely heated inside. This way of cooking seems to be a trademark of their Florentine steak. When you order the big t-bone, or perhaps it is a Porterhouse, it is brought to the table, raw, so you can view it and okay it for cooking. It is then weighed and you pay for the steak by the pound, or the kilo, or whatever. One steak that went by us to another table had to be 3 inches thick and took up the whole space on the dinner plate – a real monster!
With our entrees, we also ordered sides of white cannellini beans and grilled vegetables. We skipped dessert – I’d had it for lunch!
The walk down the hill was so much easier than the one up – and then we had the most extraordinary taxi ride! Truly believe that our driver was Mario Andretti in disguise. He took the turns and at a speed just like he was at the Mille Miglia – remember the race that is run through Monaco and the Grand Cornice? David and I enjoyed the ride thoroughly. Thought it was better than a Disneyland e-ride.
DAY SIX: Tuesday, June 20, 2017
This morning was slow. Couldn’t get to sleep last night, and when I finally did sleep, didn’t wake up until 10:30 a.m. UGH! There goes the day!
Went out to find a small piece of luggage so that I can only take a carry-on to Sardinia tomorrow. Found one not too far away. Then made an appointment for a mani/pedi. Perhaps the worst manicure I’ve ever had, and I’ve not had many. Usually only have those when I cruise. Pedicure is good, but manicure is wanting! Oh, well – be grateful, Jeanne, that you have hands that have fingers that have nails that can be painted and you have the euros to pay for them!!! Enough of that!
Well, not quite enough of that . . . have to describe the pedicure. I was led to a massage room – yep, a massage room. At the foot of the table was a shallow tub, lined with plastic, filled with water. Was directed to climb on the table and lie down. HUH? Did so, and thus began a crazy pedicure. In order to put one’s feet in the tub, had to raise the knees. So weird. So, she worked on the toes, and at one point each leg rested on the rim of the tub – talk about hurt!!! It was a great time to say the Rosary and pray for the Blessed Mother to get me through this experience. She did, but just barely – should have prayed more fervently!
Back at the hotel, realized that I’d not eaten all day. Meeting Steve and family for dinner at 7:00, but couldn’t wait ‘til then. So now as I bring this journal up to date, am sitting in the bar in the hotel – alone until very recently – noshing from a very tasty cheese plate and sipping a glass or two of Prosecco!!! Will leave shortly to go over to Margaret Ann’s apartment and join rest of family, dressed in one of my very economical (cheap!) linen outfits.
Tomorrow we leave for Sardinia – Stintino, to be exact. It is also the day that John and his family fly to Rome for a few days before joining us in Florence next week. I can hardly wait for us all to be together!
DAY SEVEN: Wednesday June 21, 2017
So, as I closed my journal yesterday, made a very loud and disruptive exit from the hotel bar!!! As I passed by my table which still had a half glass of Prosecco, my Italian backside tipped the glass sending it crashing to the tile floor. Shattered glass was everywhere and Prosecco splashed thither and yon. So embarrassed! Staff with its usual gracious behavior gathered to clean up my mess as I departed.
Finally made it over to the apartment where we enjoyed conversation before leaving for dinner at a local restaurant across the street from Santa Croce – Il Francescano – a favorite of Margaret Ann and Edmond. Had something new in the way of Italian food. Gnudi (pronounced “noo – dee”) – a light, fluffy orb about the size of a golf ball, made from ricotta, spinach, perhaps a little egg and flour. Believe it is dropped into gently boiling water, scooped out and laid in a bowl with melted, clarified butter and fresh sage. You cannot imagine how the aroma will make your mouth water, and the taste is beyond description and is there anything better than warm butter and fresh sage? It’s such great fun to have an Italian heritage all of your life, and then find something that you love, but have never heard of before.
We then walked to Vivoli, a gelato shop that I remember from 1980. Believe it is the oldest gelato shop in Florence. The kids had their gelato, a couple of us found an ATM, and we all retired to pack up and be ready to leave for Sardinia in the morning.
DAY EIGHT: Thursday, June 22, 2017
Up early and hopped around the corner where the van was waiting to take us all to the airport in Pisa – this is where there is a direct flight to Sardinia. There was some foul up with the bookings on Ryan Air but finally settled and soon we were landing in Sardinia. It took us an hour to sort out the reservations for two small vans. Apparently they didn’t ever have two small vans – how Italian!! Thank God for Margaret Ann and Edmond, who are fluent in the language and used to dealing with such issues. Though it did take a while, we were finally on our way to Stintino, where we’d rented a home for the next five nights.
We stopped on the way and all eight of us invaded a local grocery store – don’t think they’ll ever be the same again. Three carts later loaded with all essentials for feeding the crew this week, and almost 30 minutes for the poor clerk to ring everything up, while our fellows packed it into bags and brought it out to one of the cars, we were on our way to Stintino, maybe another 10-15 miles. Though we had a bit of trouble finding the house – we made it!
I will grocery shop with this group any time, any place in the world. We were so in sync with what we bought, checking back and forth. The only small mistake was buying very ripe and beautiful black figs – more on that later!
Our first glimpse of the water around Stintino took our breaths away. The colors in the water are unbelievable! Bright turquoise, cerulean, ultramarine and cobalt, with definite edges between the different colors and the color variations all seem to depend on the depth of the water. The beaches are filled with vacationers, and there are blue umbrellas filling the beaches in absolute measure, row by row. They form a perfect and colorful canopy for those seeking respite from the sun.
Our home is modern, has a stone façade that blends very well with the surrounding volcanic rock. There’s not a tree in sight, except for land across the water. A small island with an old defense watch tower is immediately center in our view across the water. Swimmers can almost walk the entirety of the stretch of water from shore to the island but depending on the tides, there might be a very small portion that one must swim. Am so content to stay in this house looking out at the water, and just using the pool here that is filled with salt water.
So wonderful!
With all the food we’d just purchased and trying to find space for it between a kitchen and a half, no one wanted to cook dinner – too tired and too happy to just sit and enjoy. Made a huge green salad with arugula, butter lettuce, endive, tomato and red onion – all tossed with olive oil and balsamic. The fellows went out and brought back tons of pizzas and we ate al fresco enjoying the evening breezes – washed down with a bottle of local red wine, the cost of which seldom exceeds 10 Euros ($11).
The local Vermentino is perhaps the best I’ve ever tasted, and that includes the Vermentino I buy from Seghesio – this one is only 10 Euros – or $11. We’ve managed to find that some of it is sold in the US at the price of around $40!!!
But to return to the beautiful, ripe figs which we’d planned to serve with prosciutto – in our zealousness to get everything into the fridge, they were squished beyond consumption – what we had was an absolute dripping squashed mess! Oh well, we’ll have to just have the prosciutto with melon!!!
DAY NINE: Friday, June 23, 2017
Margaret Ann was up early to go get a pedicure (when she got back she related that her experience was a good one – unlike mine!). I slept until 10:15 – couldn’t believe it – a really good night. When I got upstairs, Steve was sitting outside and told me that he’d just woken up and that others were still asleep. So it looks like everyone had a great night!
Steve is off for a hike on the rocks – UGH! Edmond and Joe are down at the beach and were scheduled to get to the island. We are watching from above as Joe has reached the island, but Edmond seems to be looking for something he’s lost in the water – so far away we can’t really figure it out – but we’re all taking bets that it’s either the 50 euros in his pocket, a hat, or a flip flop. We’ll find out when they return. If it is the 50 euros, then there’ll be no cold beer for Edmond before he gets back to the house! Later we were to find out that Edmond lost his Ray Bans, never to be found!
What he did bring back, to the consternation of all present, was a live (well not so live) starfish, in a bright red hue. We were sorry that he’d removed it from the water. Too late to try to return it to the sea.
Lunch was awesome, Margaret Ann’s bruschetta, and Edmond’s salsiccia e fromaggio!
This part of the journal has to be foodie related. Spent some time in the kitchen doing prep work for risotto ai fungi (mushrooms). We couldn’t find dried porcini, so we substituted local mushrooms. Not best of flavor because there is nothing like the favor of dried porcini mushrooms, but they will do in a pinch!
Nice big tossed green salad, some wine – ecco – there’s dinner! Unfortunately, we were all so hungry that no one took any photos!
Last night the wind died down completely – this is a good thing and a bad thing. The wind is drying, but it is also cooling. Late last night found Steve and Joe in the pool at 11:00 p.m.
The heat must be getting to me, because somewhere along the line in these dinners, Steve and David spent a couple of hours in the kitchen putting together a wonderful Bolognese sauce that cooked all afternoon, and which we all scarfed down in five minutes, served over penne rigati along with a good mixed green salad, and more wine, of course!
DAY TEN: Saturday, June 24, 2017
Today was an easy day - another balmy, and somewhat humid day. Edmond and Margaret Ann took off at midmorning to drive to the other side of the island where they say there is no wind. Given the temperatures here, I’ll take the breeze – it’s refreshing. Kids and parents have been back and forth to the beach. I’m vegging for most of the day, except for a short car trip into the town of Stintino where we walked around and noted that we really could have stayed back at the house!!!
Dinner tonight is leftovers – risotto and pasta, a fresh salad, and some local sausages on the BBQ, that is, if we can get the BBQ lit! Our only complaint here is that the rental doesn’t have adequate instructions for appliances and BBQ!
Margaret Ann and Edmond made it back just before the sausages were finished grilling, and we added some bell peppers to the grill. After dinner we listened to music, from that of the flower children of the 60’s to Pavarotti’s “nessun dorma” and “Mama”. Why do I have to sing when I know the aria, and at the top of my lungs!!! Everyone was very tolerant, but who knows what they said when I retired!
DAY ELEVEN: Sunday, June 25, 2017
This is our very last full day in Stintino. Rose in now busy creating a luncheon risotto as we scavenge the leftover food – so much. This afternoon will be another day listening to book, maybe a little knitting, just plain vegging. Haven’t felt this well for a very long while. Am grateful.
Best conversation at dinner, was Joe talking about a saint that was beheaded, but survived. We all laughed and laughed. But then, Margaret Ann reminded us of St. Denis and St. Miniato who actually were beheaded and carried their heads to another location . . . have to go look this up before I send this journal to all of you. From the internet:
Denis is said to have picked his head up after being decapitated, walked ten kilometres (six miles), while preaching a sermon of repentance the entire way, making him one of many cephalophores in hagiology. He is venerated in the Roman Catholic Church as patron of Paris, France, and as one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers. The medieval and modern French name "Denis" derives from the ancient name Dionysius. A Basilica shrine and the French city of Saint-Denis, now a suburb of Paris are named for the saint.
St. Miniato or Minas (Armenian: Մինաս) was an Armenian prince serving in the Roman army under Emperor Decius. He was denounced as a Christian after becoming a hermit and was brought before the Emperor who was camped outside the gates of Florence. The Emperor ordered him to be thrown to beasts in the Amphitheatre where a panther was called upon him but refused to devour him. Beheaded in the presence of the Emperor, he is alleged to have picked up his head, crossed the Arno and walked up the hill of Mons Fiorentinus to his hermitage.
So now you know! Thank you, Joseph!
DAY TWELVE: Monday, June 26, 2017
Back to Florence!! The day was spent travelling, flying from Stintino, Sardegna, back to Pisa, where our van met us for the trip back to Florence. Then checking back into the hotel, getting resettled, and I can’t remember what we did that afternoon!!!!
DAY THIRTEEN: Tuesday, June 27, 2017
DAY FOURTEEN: Wednesday, June 28, 2017
DAY FIFTEEN: Thursday, June 29, 2017
These three days are a blur. I did not keep up each day, and what we did when is really confusing, so will try to list each event – but with the heat and the overload in information, things are not in order.
Church of Santa Croce – we spent nearly two hours in this beautiful old church, amazed at how many famous people are either buried here, or have cenotaphs in their memory and honor. Michaelangelo, Dante Alighieri, Gallileo, Macchiavelli
· Museo Bargello – paintings and sculpture – beautiful architecture. Was once a jail. Found three chairs that had Bargello embroidery on them, but that was all!!
· Museo della Duomo – Original doors of baptistery, choir loggia from the Duomo, sarcophagi, tons of statuary. This museum has been totally redone, is beautiful and light and all antiquities are incredibly displayed.
· Museo della Baptistry – with explanations about the creation of the doors which are now copies – the originals are on display inside Museo della Duomo.
· Academia (Michaelangelo’s David) - This was my third visit and it still takes my breath away. Margaret Ann explained that David’s right ankle has developed hundreds of hairline fractures because of the weight of the marble figure. Experts are pondering a solution to buttress the statue prior to collapse.
In the four beautiful museums above, we were treated to so much information from Margaret Ann who is knowledgeable beyond measure. She helped us see the nuances of each piece, gave us a story that would help us remember in the future. It was like a college class without credits!
Climb up the Dome – all the guys did this, and it was a “piece of cake” said the hikers. View from the top was beautiful!
Shopping at Bottega Fiorentina – Took daughters-in-law to this beautiful leather store for a special purse to remember this trip. The owner, Gianluca, was there and had not yet packaged my order from the previous week. Each beautiful woman chose something special and it was added to my shipment.
Lunch in a Florentine Food Court – America has a lot to learn from this food court. The food is awesome, the choices are legion, and the food is of really high quality. Everything from deep fried veggies, pizza, vegetarian specialties, artisan beers, roasted meats, pasta – absolutely delicious, but had we known what was waiting for us at the wine tasting we’d have gone much lighter!
Alessi Wine Tasting - This was such a fun experience. We were there before lunch and decided that we would come back for a scheduled wine tasting at 2:00, after lunch. However, we had no idea what the food would be like.
Before we went to lunch, we chose and bought three whites (Sardegna Vermentinos). They gave us a fourth bottle. Then we went on to choose four reds. They would chill the whites so that they’d be ready on our return.
So we arrived at 2:00, after a delightful lunch. The first plates out were two good sized boards with bruschetta. One board held a bruschetta that had bread, some sort of sweet cheese, a thin lime slice and Italian tuna – scrumptious! The next board was the staple of bread with tomato and buratta – oh my goodness – we were in heaven.
This was great, but there was more to come! Two HUGE boards were brought out with assorted salumi, cheeses of every kind and description, sun dried tomatoes (the sweetness of which we’ve never experienced in America) – I’m drooling again!!! We ate, we drank – so happy to be in Italy! It was fun for two oldest grands, Trent and Alex, to be able to join us in our wine festivities!
After we thought we were through with the tasting, we were introduced to two gentlemen who were at Alessi because their product, a series of liquors / digestivos, are sold here. They prepared a series of six glasses for us to taste – well, you know what happened next. We not only ordered cases of wine to be shipped, but also ordered the beautiful fruity concoctions. By the time we finished, John, Stephen and I had ordered nine cases of wine and liquors to be shipped to my house! Oh Boy! They are all coming to my house!
DAY SIXTEEN: Friday, June 30, 2017
John and Steve got up early and hiked to the auto rental place for the cars that would transport us to Lago Maggiore. We didn’t know what to expect in the of type of cars, although we had once again ordered two SUV’s. The rest of us met at our hotel at 8:15 a.m., ordered two taxis and with all of the luggage, followed the guys to the auto rental. We got lucky!
There were two practically brand new station wagons which they’d trucked into the agency the previous evening. Stephen had a white Audi, and John had a dark olive Peugeot – thank goodness, John’s car had GPS. Steve’s family plus David piled into the Audi, and I along with John’s family piled into the Peugeot. We were in for a 5-1/2 hour ride to the lake, but once out of the city and on the autostrada, it was smooth sailing – except . . .
Our only glitch was the toll roads. Interesting, but as you pull in to the toll gate, you get a ticket which gives you the starting point. Then you hold on to the ticket until you get to the next point, where you insert the ticket, pay the toll thus far, and . . . (this is what we forgot!), you push another button to get a ticket from the current point to the next point. So, when we got to the next point – no ticket! John pressed lots of buttons, we all gave lots of useless advice, and he finally got someone on the intercom who understood, in English, that he had no ticket. Then one was produced. This one has explanation on the back in English – of course!
Within the next 15 days, we must go on line and pay the seven euros we owe for the toll road, or am certain that John will eventually get a bill with penalties that probably will total nearly 50 euros!!! Sandi discovered that the ticket could be paid at any post office, so while in Porto Valtravaglia, this was done with some difficulty, because the woman at the post office spoke absolutely no English! But, it’s done!
Along the way on the autostrada, are AutoGrills. These restaurants are built at the side of and over the freeway. The parts nearest to the parking lots are for petrol, quick snacks, coffee, sandwiches, etc. What we found at the first AutoGrill was a three-foot canister of Pringles. Had to buy two of them!
If I haven’t mentioned this before, the kids live on Pringles and here they have them with paprika and with catsup flavor. This is not to say that the adults aren’t eating them, as well! What the kids do is to eat all but one chip in the can, and then put the can back in the cupboard. They’ve obviously been told that it’s rude to eat the last one, so they’ve figured out how to have their “cake” and eat it, too!!!
We finally arrived at the Villa. Simonetta, the cleaning lady, was there to meet us. I’d done pretty well with my limited Italian thus far, especially in Florence, but I have no idea what dialect this woman was speaking. With a series of hand gestures and pointing, and smiling, we figured out the key system, the laundry, the bedrooms, and kitchen.
We are pleasantly surprised by this beautiful old home. There is tons of space here and we will make good use of all of it.
The supermarket is right around the corner from the house, so some of the adults were eager and ready to get all food for dinner. We decided on Risotto ai Fungi – that was my role tonight!
DAY SEVENTEEN: Saturday, July 1, 2017
Today we took the hydrofoil over to Stresa, on the other side of the lake, with stopped on Isola Madre (Isola Mama), where we toured a beautiful villa which I believe belonged to the Assari family and at some time or other that family connected through marriage with the Borromeo family – also most spectacular gardens, all kinds of unusual and colorful fowl, peacocks, and especially the white peacocks which put on quite a show for us.
Then over to Isola Superiore (Pescatore), where we enjoyed a tasty al fresco lunch at a beautiful and a little bit fancy restaurant, right on the lake.
After a beautiful lunch (lots of fresh fish, some from the lake), and two bottles of Prosecco, we climbed back aboard the hydro and went over to Isola Bella, (Isola Borromeo), where we toured the Borromeo family palazzo, and incredible gardens.
My ankle is shot today – it hurts most of the time and am getting lots of help from all members of this family. Even the youngest, Joe, grabs me around the waist and we pitch forward – have to be careful of his caring and zealousness!
When we got back to the house, the owner of the villa, Cesare, came by and wanted to talk with us about renting a boat and skipper for the following day and he wanted to be certain that we were all comfortable – we were. We all thought the price of the rented boat was a bit high, and he generously offered to take us in his own boat for half the price – such a deal! We should be ready by 11:00 a.m. the next morning.
Dinner tonight was a BBQ by the guys, accompanied by wonderful music of the 50’s and 60’s, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Al Martino, etc. At one point I went out into the garden and got one dance out of John – WOW!!
BBQ’d meat included a HUGE filet of beef, TWO Florentine steaks, some chicken for the "almost" vegetarians. All meat was done to perfection. Ladies put together a great salad with everything in it. We were happy!!
DAY EIGHTEEN: Sunday, July 2, 2017
The local Catholic church is right behind the Villa and up the hill. Sandi, John and I attended the 10:00 Mass where a local couple were renewing their wedding vows. I had a moment or two of panic, so close to tears, but the whole of it was so special that I had to rejoice in their good fortune. The choir was in full fettle, and music was very pretty. The church though small is pristinely kept – a beautiful experience.
Cesare was waiting for us when we returned from Mass. Just like herding cats to get everyone out of the house (10 of us), with all necessary gear for the day and we walked across the street to where Cesare’s boat was waiting.
The boat was like a fancy zodiac, not rounded like a zodiac, but pointed in front with a powerful engine at the back. It was all open, so view was good for each of us.
He was worried that I might be afraid if he went too fast! HAH! I told him in Italian, “GO! GO!”. He went! I laughed and loved the speed, the cool wind, the beauty around us. All children were smiling broadly – adults were, as well!
We slowly motored by beautiful lake front villas with extraordinary gardens, one more beautiful than the last. The weather here, both summer and winter, has quite a bit of rain (and snow), so gardens flourish. We saw the home of Arturo Toscanini, and I remembered that he’d left Italy at the time of Mussolini, because Arturo didn’t agree with Mussolini’s politics. It was safer for him to reside in the United States. But after the war he did return to his home on Lago Maggiore. Arturo Toscanini was an Italian conductor and one of the most acclaimed musicians of the late 19th and 20th centuries.
We were able to enjoy the islands we’d toured the day before, this time from the lake side. Cesare remarked that most of the mountain land in and around Stresa where once the Borromeo family flourished and produced the famous saint, Charles (Carlo) Borromeo, was still owned by the Borromeo family. In reading about St. Charles Borromeo, I found out that his father was the Count of Arono, and his mother was from the House of Medici.
Cesare brought us up to the little lakeside town of Cerro da Lavera where he’d made reservations for us at a small pizzeria. He would return to us at 3:00 p.m. and take us back to Porto Valtravaglia.
Let me tell you about this pizza!!!! DELICIOUS! Best I’ve ever eaten! Think what I ordered topped every other one at the table. It’s name – Tartuffito. It was from the side of the menu which listed Pizze Bianchi – or White Pizzas - created with a delicate, very thin pizza crust, a light layer of fresh mozzarella, then the most delicate prosciutto, not too much, then some fresh walnuts scattered on top, just enough white truffle oil, and then tons of fresh arugula. Though I could have eaten the whole thing, I did share with Stephen. Just typing up this description has my mouth watering for another taste!
More touring from 3:00 to 4:00 p.m. and back to the villa. We’d all agreed that tonight’s dinner was to be a chicken salad. David BBQ’d great chicken and we added that to a huge green salad.
After dinner, Rose got a text from her sister in Florence. We must turn on the television to see a run of the Palio in Siena. This is a crazy horse race – bareback – riders in silks that resemble clown costumes. The Palio is hundreds of years old, is run in the center of Siena annually – a small and almost circular (but not quite) race – at breakneck speed – all kinds of foul behavior from the riders – dangerous for horse and rider. This one was completed with only one rider falling off the horse and a winner was declared. Everyone there is so happy! Personally, I think it’s nuts!
At one point, Rose and Stephen thought it would be great to be able to see this race in person, but not from the ground where thousands of people jostle for a view – would make me crazy – but from the vantage point of a balcony in a room above the piazza. Those places at the window cost $2,000 per person, and that’s not for an overnight, but just for the time of the race!!!
Another wonderful day in paradise.
DAY NINETEEN: Monday, July 3, 2017
Today the kids and grands are off to Switzerland – Lugano, to be specific. I chose to stay here for some well-earned rest.
After they left, spent a couple of hours putting together a Bolognese that will be tonight’s dinner, over pasta. It’s turned out very well, and the Villa smells like it does at home when I cook!
Am now trying to piece together the last week in this journal. We’ve been so busy, and so tired at the end of each day, that there’s nothing left in me to try to be creative in the retelling of this wonderful trip.
All returned from a good day, laden with tons of Swiss chocolate – YUM!
The Bolognese was spectacular. We cooked FOUR pounds of pasta and there is enough left over for lunch or dinner tomorrow.
Played Trivia last night with all participating and answering questions from an a website on Alex’s phone. Lots of fun – all kinds of questions – both for young and old and very old!!
DAY TWENTY: Tuesday, July 4, 2017
Another easy day. Some may take a walk, others (like me) will use the opportunity to rest up for Cinque Terra and our last day in Florence. Weather here is beautiful today.
DAY TWENTY-ONE: Wednesday, July 5, 2017
Today we leave Lago Maggiore, for the last part of our trip where we’ll all be together. We’re on our way to Cinque Terra, for three nights, and then back to Florence before returning home.
The people in the local grocery store will be so sorry to see us leave – they ask each day where we come from, and how many people we are feeding!!! David is in his perfect zone, planning BBQ’s and buying way too much meat! We are eating very well!
This morning I woke to find a caffe latte with my name on it, and some beautiful Italian pastries. It’s just like us to find out on the day we leave, that there is a little Pasticceria where you can get take-out coffees and pastries!
We were off at a little before 9:00, but barely 25 minutes out, and we had to stop the cars to search for Stephen’s camera bag. No one had it! Stephen returned to the house and we went on. Shortly thereafter, we received a phone call from Rose, to please stop again and remove all luggage to double check the car. So, right in front of a very pretty house, we stopped, all piled out, and began removing all luggage. Can you just imagine the people in the house watching this comedy? Who are they, do they think they are staying with us, are they coming for breakfast?????? No camera – so we repacked and moved on, relating to Rose and Steve that we didn’t have it. By this time, Stephen had recovered the camera bag, and he was once again on his way. It had been left at the Villa.
So far today, we are managing the toll roads but the anxiety level in the car seems to rise as soon as we see a toll booth in the distance.
This morning prior to leaving, Stephen gave everyone the third degree because one of his chocolate bars from Switzerland was missing. Apparently he put his in the freezer – Dark Chocolate with Grand Marnier. Not a body claimed the theft – and no one had chocolate on his face – so it’s a mystery. However, when we were searching for the camera bag a little while ago, we realized that we had backpacks of both Steve and David in our car. Our plan is to stop and buy chocolate bars at the next stop, and we will plant the wrappers (lots of them!) in the backpacks of Steve and David – HAH! What fun! Stay tuned!
The drive this morning brought us through beautiful mountains, lots of trees and greens, and a range of scraggy saw-toothed mountains in the distance. Really beautiful scenery – too busy looking at it and forgot to take photos.
Took us three and a half hours to get to Porto Venere. Our hotel, Grand Hotel Porto Venere, is really beautiful, situated right on the water, and the room I have offers a charming view of the town along the water. Even at night, the lighting makes it so attractive that I didn’t want to go to bed, but just to hang out over the window railing and drink it all in.
The chocolate bar mystery is solved. David has discovered that he cleaned out the freezer this morning and put all chocolate into another bag that he has, so no need to purchase more chocolate and create mayhem – darn!
We procured a table of ten for lunch on the beautiful terrace dining room overlooking the town. Stephen and his passengers soon joined us and once again, we enjoyed our midday meal with delicious Prosecco. Even Joe and Sofia had a little taste!
Our waiter at lunch is the most charming Luca, an absolutely delightful young man with gorgeous blue eyes. It was his idea that if we wanted to have dinner here this evening, we could use their private room. The offer was either very generous, or we were so boisterous that he thought a private room for La Famiglia might be a better idea for the rest of the diners!
After lunch we all settled into our respective rooms, and then met in the lobby to go see the town on foot. The boys checked out the trail head where they would jump off for a hike of Cinque Terre early the next morning, and of course, we checked out the shops. Not too much here, but it is all wonderful!
At 8:00 we met for dinner in our private dining room – such fun! We enjoyed the assistance of Luca, once again. He really is a delight! The menu here highlights the foods of Liguria, where Adolfo’s people and my father’s people originated. Was happy to recognize some of the specialties, but found one pasta of the region that I’d never tasted . . . so ordered trofie (a handmade local pasta), served with pesto – so delicious. Though not on the menu, I asked Luca if it was possible to have an insalata mista, and most of us also had that (HUGE salad!). We also shared several orders of fried calamari and prawn, together with zucchini – so tender, not oily, and the batter was light as a feather.
Believe the funniest eating experience though, was what Trent ordered. I should have paid better attention that he was ordering his entrée from the antipasto section of the menu. He has a pretty adventurous palate, so ordered squid stuffed with rabbit. Congratulated him on his daring choice. When entrees arrived, his was the last to arrive at table. We all had perfectly adequate portions, so when Trent’s plate arrived with two small, itty bitty things on his plate – and that was all – we all erupted into hysterical laughter. They looked like elongated quail eggs!!! Just two of them!!! Wish I could write this to show exactly what appeared. I believe John took a photo, so will hope to add that to this journal prior to my sending. Everyone gave Trent a little of their dinner, he added an insalata mista, and felt very good being able to order dessert, guilt free – though that was also a bit strange – a deconstructed Tiramisu!
DAY TWENTY-TWO: Thursday, July 6, 2017
All of the guys were up and out of the hotel by 5:30 this morning. They would walk the trail to at least somewhere they could come down and catch a boat back to Porto Venere. This trail is the one in the mountains, with lots of elevation. Stephen is an experienced hiker and has been training these last months for long hikes in Italy. All were very willing and with a steady pace, they progressed. Rose could sometimes spot them with an app that showed their position.
While awaiting the ticket office for the boat to open, we strolled around the very tiny town square. I spotted three older women who reminded me so much of my grandmother and aunts. Asked them politely in my poor Italian, if I could take their photo. They responded with a smile, straightened their aging spines, patted their hair, and I snapped away. We think I made their day with that request!
Later in the morning, we gals caught a boat to Riomaggiore. While we were on the boat, Stephen managed to text Rose that they were ending their hike at Riomaggiore – what a coincidence! We met in the street there, and proceeded to find a place to have lunch – somewhere with a breeze and somewhere with good food – both goals accomplished.
My first look at one of the Cinque Terre towns was Riomaggiore, from the sea. I gasped – it did seem to rise on the rocks straight up to the sky. My second, third, fourth, fifth and successive gasps occurred as we climbed the rock stairs into the town! Good Grief! We were going to do this 4 more times, and then be able to descend into the boat for the next town – my confidence in this old body, particularly old legs and weak ankle began to diminish rapidly!
It felt like a million stairs up into the town – all different in depth and height and sometimes with no railing to hold. I really did struggle and hated that feeling. I needed lots of help and gratefully grasped the hands of my two daughters-in-law and granddaughter. Thank you so much, Rose, Sandi and Sofia!!
While we were having lunch, I decided that I would not continue on to the next town. David also declined, so when the rest went on to another stop, we waited for the boat back to Porto Venere. Given the risk of the climb down, and the heat, and the crowds, believe we made a good choice. David was quite tired from the early morning hike and I was just plain old and getting older by the minute!!
When Adolfo and I were in Italy in 1987, with Stephen, we talked about walking the Cinque Terre trail, but decided we didn’t have enough time to complete the walk. Now I wish that we’d done that while all our legs were young and strong. At that time and up until 2012, I am told that one could walk a very pleasant trail, much of it along the water, to each successive town. It could have been completed in one day easily. However, in 2012, there was a landslide in one of the towns that closed the trail. Don’t know if there are plans to reopen the trail at some later date.
David and I made it down and waited in the blazing sun for our boat. Meanwhile I sought a sliver of shade and thought about a cool glass of Prosecco!! Also waiting for our boat was a young blind man, accompanied by an older woman. Don’t know how or why he did this precarious ascent and descent, but he did, without complaint, and with stronger legs than mine! God bless him!
A short nap, a long shower, fresh clothing, and I was ready to meet the gang in the lobby at 7:45 for a short walk to La Bocche, a restaurant out on the point at the end of the town. We ate al fresco, drank lots of good wine, walked back to the hotel stopping for some gelato. Another lovely day in paradise!
DAY TWENTY-THREE: Friday, July 7, 2017
Stephen has done it again. This time he set off at 4:30, and plans to walk the whole mountain trail to the last town – Monte Rosso. By the time we were having breakfast at 8:30, he’d gotten close to his goal. All the rest of the fellows showed up here for breakfast!!
Am taking a day off today. Good for me and good for my kids. This way they can enjoy without worrying about me, and I can enjoy the down time without feeling that I’m making them “baby” sit!! So, now as I write this journal, out on the veranda, just having eaten prosciutto e melone, am sipping a glass of Prosecco, and feeling that I made the best choice for today!! My knees and ankle are rejoicing!
My task today was to decide where we would eat dinner. After a chat with the front desk, have made reservations at a restaurant across the channel on the island, Palmaria. There is a restaurant that runs a small boat during the dinner hours for their patrons, to and from Porto Venere. Should be fun.
So, what do I see as I sit here in my Prosecco fog . . . am looking out at the town of Porto Venere. Boats that transport passengers to each and all of the five towns of Porto Venere, come and go, at different intervals. Below me is a line of moored super, mega yachts – huge, very expensive. People are coming from near and far to view them prior to deciding if and which to purchase. They really are beautiful!
Further on, near the rocks the local teens spend the afternoons, swimming and sunning, and there are two water polo courts – in the sea – actually a protected channel. Back to the teens – the girls’ swim suits are barely there, more rear ends than swim suits visible, and way too many boys, perhaps 12 or 13, are trying to look cool while smoking!
The water polo courts are adjacent, anchored with floating bubbles, and tied to the shore. They don’t move. Believe there is some sort of tournament being played here as there are many young men with bright yellow shirts walking in groups through town, with their coaches.
Across the channel is the island of Palmaria, where we will dine tonight. Lush foliage, lots of trees and dramatic naturally carved out rock. More on that later.
The town of Porto Venere is truly old Italian. Tall, skinny houses, cheek to cheek, all with dark green shutters line the main street along the water. Colors are soft yellow, terra cotta red, grey, beige, pale blue – all soft and blending colors. Roofs seem to be wood, but am too far away to be certain. Am wondering if the flat portion of the roofs are slate. Know that this region has slate mines, because Adolfo’s people came to the United States after working in the slate mines. There is tile on the ridges.
And, of course, there are TV antennae everywhere, with a few disks. The ground floors of all buildings house restaurants and shops. Outside in front of the buildings, off-white umbrellas are everywhere, so people can dine without facing full sun – and the sun is very hot! Washed clothing hangs, strung across from window to window.
While there is a second street slightly up the hill, can’t see it from here. Above all of that a beautiful village church rises to the sky. To the right of the church is a single dwelling covered with blooming bougainvillea in a bright magenta. Above the church is what appears to be an old fortification – still sturdy stone walls. Every once in a while I will spot someone walking the ramparts.
The local fishing boats are all out, having left early this morning. While eating dinner last night we saw them returning around 9:00 p.m. That’s a very long work day!
Our dinner tonight was fun. We were taken in a very nice boat over to Locanda Ristorante. Our only error was to make reservations for 8:00. The sun was not yet down, and weather still hot and shining right on us as we sat on the veranda. We were assured it would be only ten more minutes – which I can assure you was the longest ten minutes ever – more like 50 minutes! By that time we were cooked better than the food in the kitchen!!
Food was good and after all were satisfied, we were whisked back to Porto Venere where we searched out our evening gelato. Another very good day!
DAY TWENTY-FOUR: Saturday, July 8, 2017
Today we travel back to Florence in our cars. John and family will immediately go to the train station and return to Rome where their flight leaves on Sunday for home. Hard to say goodbye to them, but we’ll soon all be home once again in the Bay Area.
We will be seeing Margaret Ann again but Edmond has returned to Florida to his work.
Felt like “coming home” to our hotel, Relais Santa Croce. The staff has been most gracious to David and me. This day, I was given a beautiful suite, because it was available, and I believe it was their way of saying thank you to us for booking with them all three stays in Florence. Steve’s family and Margaret Ann came over later to play Pedro and I ordered a couple bottles of Prosecco, a huge cheese tray and other assorted nibbles. Then off to dinner at Osteria Pazzi, just around the corner – our last trip to Vivoli for gelato rounded out the evening.
DAY TWENTY-FIVE: Sunday, July 9, 2017
David and Stephen were up very early to get tickets and stand in line to see Michaelangelo’s David. Our David had not been able to find us on an earlier day when we did this visit. That being accomplished, the two brothers also visited the Ufizzi. A good day for them.
On the other hand, we ladies went off in search of the last and best buy in cheap linen. We’d take home as much as possible!!! And, believe it or not, it all fit into our luggage!
Our last night in Florence and we asked Margaret Ann to make reservations for us all back at La Reggia up in Fiesole. Unfortunately, Margaret Ann had developed an awful cold so we went without her and missed her!! This evening could have been really wonderful, having a good dinner, overlooking the beautiful city of Florence, but as luck would have it the weather had become so hot and humidity so high that it wasn’t the best last night ever. Added to the weather, all during our dinner, we were attacked by bees. The hotel had electrified tennis rackets that you can zap critters. We had to calm Joe, he was ready to take on all of the bees, and probably hit a few patrons in the process. Whenever a waiter, or the owner of the restaurant came through and did zap a bee, he received a resounding ovation, and took his bows.
Back to our hotel, finish packing . . .
Spent the evening thinking about the highlights of the trip – gelato; good food; beautiful accommodations; great wine; the smell of leather emanating from all of the shops in Florence; the heat rash!; the cheap but oh so comfortable wrinkled linen bought at the flea markets in Florence; our private and loving docent, Margaret Ann, as we visited the historic city of Florence; relearning some of my native language – I just needed a little longer!; that special Bolognese sauce in Porto Valtravaglia; . . . . and so much more!!
DAY TWENTY-SIX: Monday, July 10, 2017
David and I were up very early and out of the hotel by 4:45 a.m. A taxi whisked us to the airport – lovely hour, somewhat cool, no traffic, no pedestrians. This was certainly the hour to view Florence! Our flight left at 6:30 a.m. to Frankfurt, and after a short layover and a change of planes, Lufthansa, whisked us back to San Francisco. A really easy and smooth flight.
Am completing my journal while at the salon getting my hair cut and colored. It’s so good to be home. I walked in the front door believing that my orchids had probably succumbed to the heat and closed house, but no, they were still beautiful and waiting to be further enjoyed.
This trip with my family was such a bonus in my life. So very special for us all to have this time together, without the stress of normal everyday life. To enjoy each other, to eat, drink and laugh – to create some new happy memories going forward and to be grateful for the presence of each other.
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