May 9, 2017 - SFO to KIX = San Francisco International Airport to Osaka International Airport (Japan).
This last month while thinking about this trip, felt that I was batting “a thousand”! That is, I’d booked my flight on United only to be deluged with press coverage about someone being asked to deplane, and the fiasco that ensued. Then realized that I would be going to a country that was within 600 to 800 miles away from North Korea, and the loon who rules there. And, finally, the ship I’d be catching in Kobe would eventually be cruising over to Kodiak Island and points of interest in Alaska, where recently Russian planes had been buzzing.
Well, I made it to Kobe, without anyone being asked to deplane. Don’t know if it’s because of the recent bad press for United, but everything was terrific. Crew couldn’t have been nicer, food was good and flight was super smooth. As usual, didn’t sleep, but watched four movies. Well, perhaps I nodded off for an hour. And when I wasn’t actually watching a movie, spent hours trying to figure out the handheld controls!! Movies watched were entertaining, but the one that had me trying not to sob out loud was “Collateral Beauty”. The message is still with me. Highly recommend.
Landed in Japan on time, zipped through customs, etc., and before I knew it was met by a man holding a sign which read “Mr. Jeanne Capurro”. He wanted to know where the other person was. I assured him that it was just me and I wasn’t a Mr.! His response was to look startled, reach a big hand to my carry-on, and take off for his car, leaving me to manage an over-heavy travel purse, and my big luggage!! . . . and the ride of my life began.
Speedometer read 100 to 120 MPK – which upon googling doesn’t seem that fast. BUT . . . it was perhaps more the way the driver tailgated, changed lanes on a whim and often straddled the dividing line of two lanes! Every so often he would sort of jump out of his seat, attack the steering wheel, and increase acceleration! There were two water bottles in the back seat, held within “secure” holders – well maybe not so secure, as I picked each one up off the floor several times.
Tried to divert my thoughts by checking out the cars on the road. Looks like everyone drives either a Honda or Toyota – of various sizes and descriptions. Most trucks are USUZU. See a very occasional Lexus, BMW or Mercedes.
Finally arrived at the beautiful hotel in Kobe – La Suites Hotel Kobe at Harborland - an hotel with old world charm and a very young and accommodating staff who greeted me warmly, had me checked in quite quickly and let me know that the luggage I’d forwarded was already in my appointed room.
My room! WOW! Balcony overlooking Port of Kobe, large bedroom / sitting room combo, and an additional room in Japanese style (tatami mats etc.). There is a television in the Japanese room, one in the main room, and another in the bathroom. Ah yes, the bathroom – or should I say “ah so”? HUGE round tub with jets galore, built in head rests, soaps, bubbles, etc. Nothing left to ask for! Except since I don’t take baths, there is only one thing left to do with that tub, and that’s to fill it with orchids! Those of you who’ve seen and/or heard about what I’ve done with the bathroom at home will appreciate my thought here.
There is a shower that is unusual (for me!) in that it is a cross between Japanese style bathing with a short stool, large scoop for splashing water upon oneself, and the European handheld shower gismo, together with the rain shower overhead. Everything is covered and you can bet you will get wet! In fact with everything going at once, you might just drown!
So, what to do first – sleep, eat, shower?? I elected to go downstairs for a glass or wine and something to eat. It was only 5:30 p.m. There is a wonderful selection of Napa and Sonoma wines, so had one of my favorites – Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, ordered a cheese plate and thought this would be good for my meal. Everything was delicious, especially the second glass of wine.
My head hit the pillow at 7:00 p.m. Was truly exhausted.
May 10, 2017 – Kobe to Kyoto and back to Kobe
So tired yesterday, I really didn’t have time to think about traveling solo. But then there’s breakfast alone – daunting!! Brought a newspaper with me in the hope that I’d look engrossed and not uncomfortable. Also brought a crossword puzzle book – I would make this work. Another couple (American) arrived in the breakfast room, and then another. I felt fairly certain that they might be also boarding the Seabourn Sojourn on Thursday. Should I speak first? Would they speak to me? Why would they as I wasn’t speaking at all, therefore they couldn’t tell where I was from? Such thoughts go rattling on and on . . .
When I’d finished eating, decided to bite the bullet and address them. Got up from my table to depart, turned around and said “Good Morning – would you by any chance be boarding the Sojourn on Thursday? Honestly, that wasn’t really so difficult! One woman responded in the affirmative and asked me to sit between the two tables on a banquette seat so that they could visit with me. Delightful people, one couple from South Carolina and one from North Carolina. So very kind.
Then it was up to the room to get ready for my marathon day touring Kyoto. Met Otsuko, my guide, at 8:30 in the lobby and was hustled out to the car being driven by Matsui. Never determined whether or not Matsui was first name or last name. Both were so very charming . . . and Matsui drove with white gloves! The car interior was covered with white cotton lace doilies everywhere a head or hand might rest.
Visited four spots – Golden Pavillion; original Imperial Palace before ruling seat was moved to Tokyo; Fushimi Inari where there is a purported 10000 Torii (gates) that mark the trail right up to the top of the mountain, and one other destination that right now eludes me!! Otsuko also suggested we lunch at a 200-year old restaurant that specialized in buckwheat noodles. We had a wonderful soup filled with the noodles, marinated mushroom, fishcake and seaweed. Very good.
The day was supposed to be 10-1/2 hours – so very long. I curtailed the day at about eight hours, and then there was the 1-1/2 hours back to the hotel. We climbed and walked and played 20 questions as to what English word she was trying to convey. She was such a good sport and had a wonderful sense of humor. We did lots of laughing, though I believe the best and most difficult translation was when she explained to me that this particular spot in a garden had once housed the Imperial chi chi’s. It took a while, but what she was trying to say was the word “kitchen”!!
Given my state of mind traveling for the first time on my own, the more I saw of the gardens, the more certain I was that this was where I belonged at the beginning of this vacation. Besides the pristine order and beauty of Japanese landscape, all shrubbery, trees and plantings were in full “new” growth mode – bright, vivid green leaves and needles. In many ways, my life is new, as well.
This gardener has true ethnic style!
While cherry blossom season has just past, the flower of Japan right now has to be the azalea. It grows like weeds everywhere – is often in the divider between opposing lanes of traffic, and in many places it is a hedge – absolutely beautiful. Also some rhododendrons are blooming. In the ponds throughout the gardens, gorgeous, tall and very blue irises dot the landscape.
Everywhere we went there were school children in various uniforms – don’t know whether it was the way students dressed for private, religious, or public schools (neither did the guide!), but there were many different styles. Skirts for the girls were all well below the knee – a change from America!! Many boys wore ties. All children / young adults were delightful.
Where are Kobe beef? Not necessarily here in Kobe, but named so because this is the port out of which the beef is shipped!
There are several shops throughout Kyoto where one can rent a kimono and look like a geisha for a day. Thirty dollars will get you the use of the kimono for a full day. Lots of young women take advantage of this offer. Thought it added much ethnic color to the gardens.
Lit two candles at a Buddhist temple, one for my well-being and that of my family, and one for all who are dealing with cancer. Seemed appropriate.
At the Shinto temple of Fushimi Inari, tossed in a coin, pulled a cord that rang a loud gong, bowed twice, clapped twice and made a wish / prayer. Japanese man behind me addressed me in Japanese, and I asked what he’d said. Told me wish/prayer must be made from the heart! Bowing, I thanked him and replied that one must always pray from the heart. Smiling to each other, we parted. It was time for him to pull the cord and pray from the heart.
Best way to prop up a very old and noble tree.
Miracles of Miracles – my ankle lasted the day! Must have been the candle lit for well-being at the Buddhist temple! Though, am not certain that I could have walked another mile, nor climbed another step.
Back to the hotel, where I repeated last night’s dinner with cheese plate and two classes of Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc. Early to bed, and up at 5:00 p.m. So far, sleeping pretty well.
May 11, 2017 – Kobe to Seabourn Sojourn
Another solitary breakfast, but this one was a bit easier. Then on up to the room to reorganize suitcases and put labels on them for entry on to the ship. My reserved taxi for transport to pier came right on time. Fifteen minutes later we arrived, luggage was taken, and I was ushered into cruise check-in. There was a special line for Diamond status passengers (those with lots of Seabourn days) and that line was very short. In no time, all travel documents were double checked, credit card information recorded and I boarded the Seabourn Sojourn. Lunch was served in the main dining room, while preparation of our suites continued. By 2:00 p.m. we were allowed into the suites. Two of my suitcases had already been delivered to the room and I began putting things away. Third one arrived shortly thereafter, and it wasn’t long before empty cases were stored under bed and drawers and closet were full of my belongings.
Then there’s always the obligatory ship drill. All passengers report to their stations in case of a problem with the ship. Ship cards are scanned to be certain that everyone takes part. Anyone refusing to go through the drill will be put off the ship. All that done, back to the room and out on to the balcony to watch the sail away.
Locals had gathered on the pier, all holding tons of colorful helium-filled balloons. There was a small band of about 15 musicians in white uniforms – these were the “Kobe Fire Band”. They began with John Phillip Souza marches, some show tunes, more marches – the music was excellent. As the ship left port, balloons were let go into the sky, and two huge nets filled with hundreds more balloons were let go, and rose like colorful confetti, into the sky and finally out of sight.
What truly touched me, and what I found a bit ironic was the music played as the ship pulled away. The band had chosen “Anchors Aweigh”. Here I was in Japan, listening to Japanese musicians, and what was being performed only made me weep as I remembered all of the lives lost at sea in battles between Japanese and American navies.
Wasn’t up to meeting more people for dinner, so opted for a hamburger with room service, more sauvignon blanc, though not as good as the Duckhorn, and another early night.
May 12, 2017 – At Sea
Up early this morning and in the coffee lounge by 6:15 a.m. Coffee and muffin as I followed instruction to get my laptop on the ship’s wi-fi. Process was easy and didn’t have to even ask for help!
While at my computer finishing up the first installment of this journal, checking out emails, etc., the man sitting at the next table spoke with me and invited me to his lecture that morning. Joe’s info follows, as do a few notes from the lecture.
Lecturer Joseph F. Kess, BSc, MA, PhD, FRSC, ORS (lots of letters!!)
University of Victoria, Centre for Asia-Pacific Initiatives.
Fellow of the Royal Society (Canada)
Order of the Rising Sun (Japan)
Emeritus Chair in Japan and Asia-Pacific Relations
WHY KYOTO IS JAPAN’S CULTURAL CAPITAL
· 1-1/2 million people – referred to in Japan as a “small town”.
· Formerly capital – and base of Imperial family
· Capital of Tranquility and Peace
· City plan is very orderly.
· Full of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines – perhaps 2000 in Kyoto. Throughout Japan there are 100,000 Shinto shrines.
· Kyoto spared during WWII because of its cultural importance – not bombed.
· Many prewar buildings still stand, though modernization is taking over.
· Kyoto has 20% of Japan’s National Treasures; 14% of Important Cultural Properties; 17 historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto; all of Kyoto is a cultural Heritage Site.
· Shinto priests are charged with caring for shrine, but because that is primarily their mission, Shinto priests also have regular “day” jobs! Believe the preferred funeral is one of the Shinto variety – very grand and expensive!!
· Conversely, Buddhist priests denounce all worldly goods and thoughts, spend their days in prayer and begging.
Notes on this lecture will end here because I became more interested in listening than “noting”. Joe is a very good lecturer, lots of funny stories interspersed with facts – very entertaining.
Had my first Trivia session. Have joined a team with the most ridiculous name – can’t spell it, can’t pronounce it – will try to pay attention at today’s session and relate the name and meaning later in the journal. Team Trivia is always fun on the ships.
Lunch at the Colonnade, a nap in the afternoon, and then prepping for the first formal night – there will be three during this cruise. I’d been invited to join the table of the staff captain, Stoyan, from Bulgaria. Have been at his table on a prior cruise and he’s entertaining – not at all stuffy – but tonight it was just TMI and more TMI. We learned way too much about his personal life – a bit unprofessional and somewhat like a confessional!!! On the up side, my dinner companion to the left was familiar to me. Turns out that we’d been on a cruise together before and even been on the same Trivia team. Carole is from Southern California, also widowed, and is traveling on this trip with a girlfriend from her middle school days in San Francisco They are both funny and bright and we’ll probably spend some time together on this trip.
Lots of Aussies on the ship – which equals tons of laughter. Do love the Aussies – open, warm hearted and inclusive to all around them.
May 13, 2017 – At Sea
Today is our second day at sea in extremely calm water. One might not guess that we are on a moving ship. There will be more lectures, more Trivia, dinner tonight at the table of the Cruise Director, Sophie – a delightful young woman from England. . . . and of course, the obligatory nap in the afternoon!
There has seldom been a cruise where we’ve not met staff from other of our cruises. This time there are two favorites on board – both greeted me with enveloping and very comforting hugs. A wonderful young woman, Marina, is now managing the grill / pool deck. Such a hard worker! She has always given us such good attention, been so very kind, funny and loving.
And there’s Andreas who manages the Colonnade restaurant. A lovely man who is warm, has old world charm, but feet on the ground (most difficult to do when out at sea!).
Both of these wonderful people waited for Adolfo to join me and when I told them that he’d passed away last year, both had tears running down their cheeks. Marina was pouring my wine at dinner last evening and admonished me with “When are you going to come visit me at the grill?”. Promised that today I’d try to do that, but given the cooler weather today, wonder if the grill will even be open!
When you are on these ships for two months at a time, as we’ve cruised in the past, many of these people become “family”.
Today was a first for me. In all the years that Adolfo and I played Team Trivia, we never had a perfect score. Can’t say that any longer – as today, our funny named team which I still can’t spell or pronounce and means “The Rascals” in Hawaiian, scored a perfect 100%. Nothing they could throw at us stumped us! That’s 12 questions, and a bonus question that had five parts! We are awesome!!!
Lunched out on the grill deck with Mandy and Michael from Australia. It was pouring rain, very cold, and we were tucked into a corner with overhead heaters – drank too much wine!!
Dinner tonight with Cruise Director, Sophie – a most charming young woman from Manchester, England. There were several single women at the table, none of whom were very interesting – getting to be such a snob!! I was luckily seated between Sophie and a gentleman from Victoria, BC, both of whom were interesting and pleasant and the conversation kept flowing nicely. The two women across from me seemed unhappy and if not silent were a bit strident in what they had to say – oh well . . . . .
Then a quick visit to the evening’s entertainment – a beautiful young woman from Viet Nam, concert pianist, who played lots of Chopin (always favorite for me!). But alas, there were two keys on the piano that were sadly out of tune. Found myself grinding my teeth, waiting for the next “hit” - so quietly exited and had a good night’s sleep!
May 14, 2017 – Aomori, Japan
Big seas today, as we cruise toward Aomori. Have booked a car and guide for a half day and will report back later.
Aomori, located in the far north of Japan is one of the country’s most beautiful prefectures and this prefecture’s capital. Located on Mutsu Bay, Aomori is among Japan’s most pleasant towns to visit or live (says the ship’s newspaper). The city was heavily bombed during WWII. This locale is known for its apples, sake and fresh seafood. Largest exported item is the Fuji apple production. About 300,000 people inhabit the city.
Beautiful and very formal welcoming ceremony on the pier prior to our disembarking this morning with the Mayor of Aomori city presenting our captain and two other officers with flowers, a plaque, and what looked to be a huge bottle of sake! All words in Japanese, followed by English translation. Alongside, Japanese musicians entertained and finally the ship was cleared for disembarkation of passengers going on tour.
Out on the pier a fierce and very cold wind had us clutching the closures of our jackets. The skies threaten us with rain, but we are all wearing our beautiful blue jackets presented to us by Seabourn for this trip. Have layered well, but am thinking that perhaps I should have brought gear that is in a bin at home in the garage where I’ve stored clothing used for our Antarctica trip two years ago!
Spotted a sign with my name – Ms. J. Carurro (sic). Oh well, guess signage will be my nemesis this trip! My guide is “Mickey” Sato. His real name is something like Michiro, and he let me know that the “Sato” name in Japan is equal to “Jones” in America. Driver’s name eludes me as I write this!
We rode in another Crown Toyota adorned with white cotton lace coverings on seats. Rather than sit in the front seat and speak to me over his shoulder, Mickey climbed into the back seat with me, which made our communicating very easy. He asked me where I wanted to go and I told him that he should choose what to do for the next three hours.
Our first stop was Seiryu-ji Temple, a relatively new Buddhist temple founded by a priest named Ryuko Oda in 1982. The temple is isolated from the noises of the city so one can be immersed in the serene atmosphere and listen carefully to the Buddha’s voice in our hearts.
The highlight here is Showa Daibtsu (Showa Great Buddha), which rises up and through the tree tops – maybe three stories. The statue is Dainichi Nyorai, the central Buddha of the mandala (Buddhist world) wearing a crown on his head and making Zen meditation hand gesture.
The founding Buddhist priest claimed that the Buddha concept was so large because “We Japanese are enjoying an affluent life. We should not forget our gratitude and reverence for the war dead who sacrificed themselves for the nation and laid a foundation for today’s affluence”.
Another big reason for building the Daibtsu – after WWII in Japan, religion was excluded from the education curriculum due to separation of state and religion. The question asked: “Is moral and emotional education capable without religion? The answer is obvious when we look at the current situation. We have witnessed a decline in ethics . . .” The text goes on castigating many Buddhist priests for not paying more attention to the souls of their parishioners and continuing to teach the messages of Buddha, but instead being more interested in performing ritual acts like funerals and memorial services.
The tract closes with “When we look up at the sacred Daibutsu with a backdrop of a natural halo of trees, we are wrapped in ineffable peace and tranquility”. Because of the enormity of the physical presence of this statue, believe it’s strength and the power of prayer is even more evident. If memory serves, believe the weight of the Buddha is over 22 tons!!
A bonus today was that the drive into this beautiful area was lined with flowering cherry blossom trees – so very pretty! Also noted that 90% of the cherry trees here were of the usual pink variety, but there were also blossoms on some trees only in white.
Then we were off to Sannai-Maruyama site. When preparing for a new baseball park in 1992, excavation unearthed artifacts which led to the discovery of a large settlement of the Early and Middle Jomon Period (about 5,500 to 4,000 years ago). The museum created around this working dig showcases pottery and stone implements, wooden objects, bone and antler artifacts. Needless to say, plans for the baseball park were abandoned!!
Mickey noticed me taking a photo of a large lantern in the vestibule of the museum, and he asked me if I was interested in seeing more of this type of art work. So we were next to visit the Nebuta Museum, or “Wa-Rasse”.
The Nebuta Festival takes place in early August, annually. Nebuta is an art where forms are created with heavy wire, then covered with a thin paper, whereupon artists paint faces and figures of gods and creatures of nature most often associated with Japanese mythology – often reminiscent of Kabuki and Noh theater. Miraculously, the wire and paper construction created not only sharp edges, but beautifully rounded soft edges. The finished products are lit from within – in olden days with a candle, but now with electric lights. The colors are vivid, the expressions of both human and animal figures show drama. Sometimes pieces can be small, perhaps just wall masks, but the large pieces are as big as a small building!!
Along with the viewing, there was a video, with live musicians accompanying and my very favorite – the Taiko Drums, beating furiously in this large, cavernous museum. This was my favorite of the day. Wanted to stay and take classes in the art of Nebuta.
After a little over 3 hours, I hit the wall. Don’t seem to have much energy. This morning was fun. Especially as I try out some Japanese words. Continue to have fun with “Hai” which means “yes”, but said with force – almost a shout. The way we use “okay”, they use “hai”. They laughed at / with me, all in good fun. Am getting pretty good with “thank you” – “arigato”, but the “you’re welcome” eludes me! Mickey explained that it’s sound is similar to “Don’t touch my mustache”! This sent me into gales of laughter.
Should begin getting ready for a lecture from Joe at 6:30, and then dinner with last night’s pianist. Wonder if she’ll reveal the two keys on the piano that should be tuned!!
Writing this bit the next morning . . .
Joe’s lecture last evening prior to dinner was quite good. He spoke of Japan’s difficulties this last decade, plus - i.e., earthquake, tsunami and resultant pollution from the flooded nuclear reactor. How all of this has impacted their economy, and in turn, much of the world’s economies, shouldn’t have been a surprise to me but it often takes someone else to wake me up!!!
I had no idea how much damage was done with the nuclear incident, and how it still continues to impact Japan. Most of Japan’s produce was grown in an area that is now “infected”. More and more has had to be imported, and less exported. Believe it was stated that in 2012, Japan experienced its first national deficit – a rather large one, and it continues on.
Earthquakes are also a big problem here, especially in Tokyo. It is feared that a “big one” could happen any day (we’ve heard that in San Francisco, as well!), and should it be centered in Tokyo as in the past, then much of Japan’s infrastructure will fall apart. The Japanese mythical theory is that within the three large tectonic plates surrounding Japan, there is a giant cat fish that when stretching and trying to get out of the clutches of the plates, causes the earthquakes – interesting image!!!
Enjoyed dinner last evening with the pianist and because I was the first one to the table and sitting next to Van Anh Nguyen, asked her if it was my old ears, or was the piano in need of tuning – particularly two keys! She laughed and said I’d heard correctly, but that this was a situation that guest pianists dealt with on ships, as the instruments went out of tune frequently. The staff usually manages to get the pianos tuned every three weeks – WOW! – that’s a lot of tuning!!!
After dinner there was a Japanese folklorico show, with traditional old Japanese music (strident to my ears), wailing by the singer – I stood it for about two minutes and skedaddled back to my suite and a comfy bed.
May 15, 2017 – Hakodate, Japan
Hakodate, another city in the north of Japan, is the largest city in southern Hokkaido. It was one of the first cities opened to trade with the west after the arrival of Commodore Perry. The city is laid out around a beautiful bay, and reminds me somewhat of San Francisco.
The day was rainy, windy and cold, with fog obscuring the tops of the surrounding hills and particularly Mt. Hakodate, or Mt. Hakodateyama – which I don’t understand, because the “yama” at the end of the word means “mountain” . . . so is it Mt. Hakodate Mountain?? At any rate, met my guide, Yuki and the driver whose name I still don’t know. Yuki asked where I was from and when I responded with “San Francisco”, he lit up like a Christmas tree! He’d been in San Francisco for several years while he attended San Francisco State out near Stonestown and had fond memories of his stay there. Very fortunate for me because his English was as good as mine!! Better than his English, though, was that both Yuki and the driver had keen sense of humor, and we laughed continually throughout the morning. Yuki helped me to pronounce simple Japanese phrases and both laughed at my attempts. I finally did manage an “arigato – go zai mashta”, which is the most polite way to say “thank you”!! My version of this phrase is strictly phonetic!!
Our first stop was the open market which was primarily fish – both fresh and dried. Not a bit of odor which reminds me of shopping with the chef on a previous cruise. His rule of thumb was that if you could smell the fish market before you saw it, then find another fish market!
We wandered from stall to stall. Yuki explained how some of the foods were used. I was struck with the number of dried varieties of fish. Appears that this was developed at a time when residents had little or no refrigeration. Once refrigeration began to appear in homes, cooking with dried fish was the norm, so it continued. At one point we passed a table of locals eating raw fish, beautifully presented. We stopped to admire what was in the plate, and the owner of said plate encouraged me to taste from his portion!!! How delightful, though I declined!
There are huge live king crabs, swimming squid, hairy crabs and snow crabs all in separate tanks of water, and huge bins of oysters with fresh sea water sluicing over them. One thing that I found most interesting was a piece of fish that looked like a slice of an orange. This was from the center of a sea urchin. The fish monger opens the urchin, cuts off the top and cleans out the extra matter with chopsticks. Then the beautifully segmented “orange” (just 5 segments) is displayed.
We then went to tour some gift shops that had been developed in an old brick building. Bought a small piece of handblown glass to add to my little travel memorabilia collection, but for the most part, the glass made in this particular shop looked too much like Venetian glass – all designs most ably copied!!
We then took a 45 minute walk in the Motomachi district where there are churches of every denomination, including the Motomachi Catholic Church. This church has an old history along with Yamanote Church in Yokohama and Ohura Church in Nagasaki. In 1860, a temporary church was built by the Paris Evangelical Missionary Society Priest, Mermet-Cachon, and was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The present church was constructed in 1924 after the Hakodate Great Fire of 1921. Gothic architecture characterizes its magnificent interior, which is quite rare among cathedrals in Japan. All the statues including the central altar were made of wood in the Tirol District of Italy (now part of Austria) and were sent to this church by Pope Benedict XV.
Though I’d hoped to light a candle for a special intention, there were no candle banks. A prayer would have to suffice. The reason for no candles was obvious once I’d heard more of the history of Hakkodate. This city is prone to huge, sweeping fires. Fierce winds come up from the bay and once a fire begins, there is little hope to stop it before much damage occurs.
You can see the photo below that the wind dictates which way the plant grows on this building.
For this reason, much of the city has streets double the usual size in width. They act as fire breaks. We walked a street that’s often referred to as “ice cream road”, and that is because there are several ice cream stores along the way. Japanese love ice cream and are often spotted carrying cones in this district when enjoying a walk.
In this district is also a very pretty park where a tribute statue of Commodore Perry looks out to the bay, surrounded by four Black Azalea bushes (which bear pink flowers!) symbolize the four ships in which he arrived – known in Japan as the “black ships”. The day continued to be cold and windy and fog shrouded the surrounding mountains. However, there are some beautiful cherry trees in bloom, and I understand that those trees have just begun blooming in Kushiro (further north) where we will be tomorrow.
What Yuki had hoped to show me were the views from Hakkodateyama, but due to the fog, we had to improvise! So, we headed off to Goryokaku Tower.
The history of Goryokaku Fort, and the tower that overlooks it is so involved with history of the Shogunate, etc., that I won’t try to recreate in this journal. But I can give you a birds eye view with this next paragraph:
Fort Goryokaku’s unique star-shaped citadel has its origin in the 16th century Europe. A number of “citadel cities,” cities that were completely surrounded by forts, were built during this war-torn era. With the development of guns and cannons, structures that reduced the blind spots in gun battles were designed to protect those cities. Star-shaped citadels were thus created. As European countries advanced overseas and expanded their colonies, these types of citadels started being built all over the world. In Japan, people who had already come into contact with European designs and technology during the last days of the Tokugawa shogunate built Goryokaku Fort on their own. It is thus a symbol of “Japanese spirit combined with Western leaning.”
The view from the tower is breathtaking. The planning and execution of the Fort is very beautiful. Gardens are exquisite, and contain many different plants and I believe it is said that there are over 1000 cherry trees. Would have loved to see them in bloom a couple of weeks ago!
Though there was an older tower opened in 1964, this new tower was opened in 2006. It is 107 meters high (this includes the lightening rod!). The two observatory areas are 86 meters high and 90 meters high. Approximate 500 people at a time can be on the viewing floors. The windows on each viewing floor angle out over the Fort, so the visuals are spectacular.
My 3-1/2 hours were soon finished, and we headed back to the ship. Nothing will top my day with guide, Yuki. Felt very lucky to have drawn him and the driver.
Then it was lunch, a short nap, a manicure and pedicure – the last such a pleasure. Don’t know why I don’t do this at home! Dinner was with two young entertainers from the ship, one from Texas and the other from Minnesota. They were delightful, as were other people at the table very interesting.
Must tell you about one guest on board who walks around with a pink teddy bear in his pocket – bear is named “Kali”. Of course, everyone asks about the bear and he then speaks about a non-profit that he’s involved with that raises money for Make A Wish Foundation and a hospital that deals with children enduring cancer. So smart! Wonder how many donations he’s been offered since he’s been on board – should I get the chance, am going to ask if that happens!
May 16, 2017 - Kushiro, Japan
The weather is absolutely awful – pouring rain and cold. However, I do have another tour this morning. It will no doubt fall short of yesterday.
My guide today is Nozomi. Very nice young woman. We began with the Tancho Japanese Crane Reserve. These Red Crowned Cranes mate for life and were at one time almost extinct, but have been brought back in population with careful nurturing and establishing a safe haven for them. At this time of year they are hatching chicks, though any chicks were huddled ‘neath the protective feathers of mama crane, and kept carefully warm and dry. The cranes stand on long black legs, have a white body and black tail feathers. The neck is black, with a white stripe on either side leading to the eye. At the crest of the head is a thatch of bright red, which grows in size when the crane is agitated. The beak is long and black.
Walking around the sanctuary, we were heavily rained on and came back to the car pretty wet – even while wearing Seabourn heavy jacket and carrying an umbrella. Weather very bad for walking tours, and that’s what there is mostly to do this day.
Kushiro has a huge marshy area in the center of the island which we’d hoped to visit today. Lots of wildlife, cherry trees just beginning to bloom, and many national parks dot the island around the marshy area. Have elected to take a pass.
Instead we went to the Kushiro City Museum which shows history of area, and has many artifacts. I truly don’t like museums, especially when most of what can be read there is in Japanese, but this one was small and fairly interesting.
The rain continues, weather is grim. Have elected to go back to the ship. A very light lunch and a very long nap is preferable to being out in this mess!!
Once aboard the ship, we were required to go through Japanese customs on our ship, and then turn in our passports once again to the ship’s purser. That being done, have tried to bring journal up to present. Next time we set foot on land it will be in the USA!!
We are about to embark on 6 or 7 days at sea, all the while moving further north and toward Kodiak Island in Alaska. One wonders if we will see the sun in the next week!
Enjoyed a fun-filled dinner with a couple from Colorado, Linda and Rondo, and two darling Aussies, Mandy and Michael. A bit of play (blackjack) at the Casino and so to bed!!
May 17 / 18, 2017 – At Sea, on our way to Kodiak Island
Every day and/or night, there are changes in our clocks – an hour or two forward, in order to compensate for our crossing the International Date Line sometime during this voyage to Kodiak Island.
I do love days at sea, and this is why I booked this trip. Yesterday was leisurely, didn’t have to get up to go on tour, could take my time, go to lectures (I did not!), nap (I did!), read (I did!), make a contribution at the Casino (I did!), play trivia (I did!), see a before dinner show (I did!), and enjoy scintillating company at dinner (I did!).
The before dinner show featured the four Seabourn singers who are part of the permanent staff on this ship for a nine-month tour. They are the best I’ve ever heard aboard ship. Dan, whom I had dinner with a few nights ago sang the Josh Groban song, “You Raise Me Up”, that was sung at Christina’s funeral Mass – had a few shaky moments, and then just silently wept, grateful to be seated in the very back of the room. When the show was over had a few moments to collect myself before going down to the dining room.
Was invited to a table hosted by a new entertainer (singer/piano), Nyk Paige. When I arrived at the table, it turned out to be a double hosting. Also hosting was Ambassador Douglas Gibson from South Africa. I had the pleasure of being seated next to Nyk. He is delightful and I’m anxious to see his show this evening. Turned out he starred in a production of “Les Miserables” in the West End of London for a year and a half. While originally from London, he has moved his family to Teneriffe so that his daughters and wife can live a more normal and slower paced life, particularly while he travels and performs aboard cruise ships. Where else but on a ship can one have dinner with an Ambassador and Jean Val Jean?!?!?
Before retiring I tried out the after dinner show. She was described as a “comedian with an edge”. She was okay – perhaps I was just too tired to appreciate, but sitting at the back of room allows an unobtrusive exit when one has had enough! . . . and so to bed!
This morning I awoke again by a strange phenomenon that has happened every morning. Around 6:00 am., the cabin is filled with the most delicious odors of sautéed onion and mushroom, with a little garlic thrown in! My idea is that somehow the air ducts have gotten confused and a vent from the kitchen has somehow been redirected into my room. The aroma does disappear after a while, and I do go back to sleep!
Today will be a quiet day – will report later on my dinner with two more singers this evening. My new friends, Mandy and Michael, have told me that we are booked into the Thomas Keller restaurant for next Tuesday evening. Should be fun!
Dinner last night was exceptional with singers Kate, Ian, and my favorite, Dan. It was a very lively table. At dessert, the choices were so difficult, but Ian, seated to my left explained to me that the entertainers could order as many as any guest ordered, so I ordered three with the promise that I could have just a taste of two of them and Ian would eat the rest – knowing that he’s eat two of mine, he only order some ice cream. Worked beautifully! I “tasted” (really only one taste!) of roasted figs in sabayon, and then a real winner, a caramel nut Sunday that was stupendous. My dessert to finish was a Whiskey (spelled “Wishkey” on the menu) Souffle with cherry sauce. Seabourn used to only make souffles on formal nights, but now there is a different flavor offered each evening. It is very difficult not to pamper oneself and eat them every night – so delicious!
After dinner I caught the show of Nyk Paige, with whom I’d enjoyed dinner the previous evening. He has so much energy! Sang “You Raise Me Up” – not so bad for me this time because his rendition was a bit dramatic, not from the heart as Dan’s had been the previous evening. Then songs from Michael Buble, a tribute to Luciano Pavarotti – “Nessun Dorma”, several pieces from Frankie Valli, and finally selections from “Les Miserables” finishing with “Take Me Home” – so beautiful!
On the Frankie Vallie, was really impressed as he took the parts of all the singing group and sang from a deep baritone to the high falsetto of Frankie. He did a really good job.
May 19 / 19, 2017 - At Sea.
. . . or is it DAYS TEN, TEN and/or ELEVEN – so confusing!!!. . .This is our second May 19, as we have crossed the International Date Line. Because it is our second May 19, there is no news today – weird. So today aboard ship there are “Ground Hog Day” festivities – remember the movie?
We now have had several days at sea, with nothing on the horizon but sea and sky. Some days are rocky and others quite calm. Have decided that a little bit of rocking is good because you know you are on a ship! Especially at night I welcome the rocking because it’s just like being back in the cradle and sleep is wonderful!
Team Trivia continues and though our team has not had another perfect score for the day, we are doing fairly well and continue to lead the pack. However, the gap is closing so today we must do very well, or be knocked out of first position!
Was invited to a table hosted by the lady comedian last evening and decided to pass and stay in the suite. But just as I was beginning to enjoy the thought, received a message from Carole (someone who has been on previous cruises with us) that they had room at their table for the special Thomas Keller dinner in the Colonnade Restaurant – would I join them? Room service would have to wait for another evening!
The evening began with drinks in the forward Observation Lounge on the 10th deck. Remember that the higher you go on a ship, the more the movement – so staying on the bar stool was an exercise!! However, while we were there, someone asked for a plate of “chips” and (Jim B., are you paying attention?!?!?) a bottle of hot sauce!!! You know what comes next – she liberally sprinkled her chips with hot sauce. Couldn’t wait to relate yet another way for Jim to use hot sauce!!
The dinner was really delicious and was served family style. First course was a deconstructed Waldorf Salad – rather than just chunks of apples, walnuts and celery tossed with mayonnaise – this salad contained endive, radicchio, and the sauce had blue cheese in it. The apples were thinly sliced at the bottom of the plate. It was very good, but hardly the Waldorf I remember! Then came a very large All-Clad fry pan placed in the center of the table. In it was thinly sliced prime rib of beef, with what was described as an A-4 Sauce (rather than A-1!) and alongside the beef were freshly grilled asparagus. Between each two people the waiter placed miniature All-Clad pots filled with mashed potatoes – believe they were new potatoes with skin on, roughly mashed with sour cream – delicious. So far, it was like a meal at home, not the usual complexities of Thomas Keller cooking, but very comforting after the exotic menus of the past nights.
The next course was Humboldt Fog cheese from Marin (which I often buy at home), served with a pot of Marin wild honey, and accompanied by toasted country bread slathered with melted butter – so slimming!!! Oh, so, delicious!! We three left at a table of what began with six of us, each brought some cheese and honey back to our rooms to enjoy the next day. Three guests had left the table before dinner ended to see the violinist perform.
. . . and there was more . . . must have a sweet! Chocolate silk pie was next but we were stuffed, so we asked for one piece and three forks. Partook of just one bite – it was silky and good, but enough is enough!!
The weather has been very cold, yet there are stalwarts who insist on “enjoying” lunch out on the grill deck. I did try it one day and couldn’t get my lunch down fast enough! Was so bundled up that it was difficult to move hand to mouth. Unless it warms somewhat, think I’ll give the grill deck a pass for the time being. Temperatures have been in the low 40’s, but the wind seems to make it even more cold. Luckily I have tons of sweaters and puffy vests. Am finding the common rooms on the ship a bit too warm.
The last two mornings, have not had the aroma of sautéed mushrooms, garlic and onion in the room. Perhaps mentioning it to guest services might have corrected the problem.
Am still confused as to the dates on my journal, so am going to write a bunch for the two 19th’s and then straighten myself out on May 20 – tomorrow!
Lovely lunch today with Rose, Barry and Althea – all from Brisbane, Australia. Thought from nearby neighborhoods in Brisbane, didn’t know each other ‘til they met on the ship. Hope to see more of these three – the women particularly are wonderful, bright beings! They are taking the cruise in February 2018 from Capetown, South Africa to Singapore – lots of wonderful stops. Was also asked last evening to consider that cruise as Carole is also booked on it. I will look into it though it is a 36-day cruise, with very long flights to and fro!! Must think on this – not too long because the ship is already beginning to fill for that cruise.
Speaking of South Africa, tonight’s dinner table was hosted by Ambassador Donald Gibson and this time I sat next to him. He is a charming, soft spoken man, with a keen and dry sense of humor. This evening the Ambassador’s wife did not attend. Seems that she is recouping from a day getting hydrated in the infirmary, as she has been and will continue for a few more weeks, on an oral chemo. Apparently, the silly woman who sat across from us commandeered the conversation with the Ambassador, letting him, and the rest of us, know how much she knew about cancer treatment (not a doctor!) and relating each and every tale that involved anyone she knew having cancer treatment in her entire life – tedious to say the least. The Ambassador was very patient – more than I would have been! She finally wound down and the rest of the evening was better.
Dinner was delicious, though I must begin taking my phone to dinner so that I can take photos of some of the food presentations. I chose from Thomas Keller menu last evening and the first course was TK’s version of gnocchi – really a very strange rendition. Picture this . . . 2” across, about ¾” high, round with an indent in the center, appearing as a spinach terrine. Residing in the indentation was something crunchy, perhaps tiny bits of bacon. On top of the indent was a whole medium boiled egg, a slight bit of some creamy sauce thereon and around the terrine, a skinny piece of crisp bacon on the side – does this sound like gnocchi to any of my Italian family??
The entrée was also a TK creation and was very good. Small amount of very finely shredded red cabbage, cooked with sweet and vinegar. On top a beautifully cooked piece of swordfish, topped with something that looked like caviar, but crispy and I never was able to taste what it was, then garnished with two small orange segments. Delicious and light entrée.
May 20, 2018 – Still at Sea.
This morning became a very late start for me, as I slept until 10:00 – but awake most of the night. This is the first night that I haven’t slept well. So got myself together, grabbed a latte and headed for the Cook-Off at 11:00. There were three teams – two from the passenger list, and one from the staff list. Everyone had the same ingredients – tons of veggies, herbs, spices, etc. At the last minute, each team was given a piece of salmon, a piece of chicken and a small beef filet. It was each team’s choice to make one dish with all proteins, or decide on two or three dishes. They had 30 minutes to complete and present. All the while during prep, Chef Patrice kibitzed, and entertained the audience, nagged at the cooks and finally with the help of the audience, judged the winning team. It was the team that prepared three complete dishes.
Then on to Team Trivia where we had our usual fun, and did medium well. I then chanced lunch out on the grill deck. Though it is still cold with some breeze, the sun is out today, and we can see forever – the sea is actually beautiful blue. Believe we still have 2 more days at sea before we reach Kodiak Island.
There is a good show anticipated prior to dinner performed by our Cruise Director, Sophie Teherani. She will perform tunes made famous by Bette Midler, Barbra Streisand and Shirley Bassey. After dinner we have the lady comic – think I’ll sit at the back so I can leave early. . . .
Dinner tonight is hosted by a member of the Ventures team. Believe this young woman is a part of the special team that was aboard when we went to Antarctica – made up of specialists on wildlife, sea life, and every manner of nature that we will see in Alaska. Am anxious to see what is planned for the Alaska portion of our trip. The week following my departure, the ship is heading back up to the inland passage, and will get out the zodiacs for some close up viewing of glaciers, wildlife, etc. We did enjoy that part of the discovery of our Antarctica trip. Perhaps this is something that I can do next year.
Oh, Oh, that’s two cruises to consider in 2018, but I’ve just about ruled out the one beginning in Capetown. Not looking forward to that much flight time, going and coming.
May 21, 2018 – At Sea
Last night’s dinner with Kristie Yaeger was very nice – small table of six – I remember her from the expedition team when we went to Antarctica. She did a lecture this morning about the co-existence of wildlife and humans, with emphasis on the situation in Alaska. Lots of good information, especially about bears!!!
Last night’s dinner – this was a tasting dinner by Guest Chef Patrice Olivon – note two courses with a choice of entrée:
· Gaspacho with cantaloupe melon, basil oil
· Tuna Crudo with Wasabi and Horseradish crème fraiche, pickled cucumbers, fried beet ribbons, caper and white anchovy, red cherry tomatoes
· Poached egg on a crispy potato galette, seared foie gras, black truffle sauce
· Champagne Lychee and Lime Zest Granite
· Pan Seared Pacific Halibut, sautéed Belgian endive, green asparagus, butter emulsion with caviar
· OR
· Roast Duck Breast, cherries gastrique, carrot puree, snow peas (my choice and super delicious!)
· Chocolate Tart, rhubarb compote, apricot Chantilly, coffee anglaise
· Warm Baby Beignets
Though not at all a fan of foie gras in the past, last night’s presentation was wonderful, and I might have changed my mind! Except for the entrée, which though small was very adequate, the other courses were either three spoons full of the soup, or three to four forks full of others.
It’s been a very low key day. Have just woken from a nap following a super light lunch in my suite – two miniature croissants (truly mini!) filled with tuna and a one-inch square of carrot cake – just enough. I must be slipping for I forgot the glass of wine that usually accompanies my lunch on board ship!!
I’d hoped to attend an event on the aft deck around the plunge pool in about five minutes, but the weather has been wet and rainy all day, so am staying warm and dry. Though I will be anxious to hear who has won the boat building contest. Teams have been working on their projects the last couple of days – to see whose vessel can stay afloat the longest.
Before dinner Nyk Paige will be performing again. I will be having dinner with my two favorite Seabourn Vocalists, Dan and Mollie. Following dinner, there will be Liars’ Club.
If the participants are clever, then this will be a hoot. Entertainers and some staff are given the same obscure word and explanations are given by each participant. The audience who will be in teams must then choose the person who is telling the truth. It’s usually a fun evening.
Have been successful in continuing to use the stairways aboard ship, though am suspicious that in the dead of each night, a step or two are being added to each flight! . . . or perhaps it’s a pound or two on my backside that’s adding to the problem!! The stairs have been primarily my only exercise, except for hand to mouth for both food and beverage. There are those passengers that I admire greatly as they are up early each and every morning, either sweating profusely in the gym, or walking ‘round and ‘round Deck 5 until am certain their shoes are wearing out!
There is also a silent auction aboard ship! Are you kidding me?!?!? In the jewelry shop which features wonderful baubles from all over the world, for the next 24 hours they are conducting an “estate” sale. My thoughts on an estate sale have always been old jewelry, but this collection appears to be new. Prices begin at 40% (and some lower) of the appraised value, but still, the prices are outrageous! Not only are prices extremely high, the pieces are really large, something one might wear to a royal wedding, but hardly what one might wear out to dinner or even to a black tie event – at least not without an attendant body guard.
On the serious side, am missing my family. I don’t recall this acute feeling of homesickness on former cruises when accompanied by Adolfo – but this time I feel truly disconnected from children and grands. There are situations that I’d like to share with them in real time. Ten more days and I’ll be bothering them!!! . . . well, maybe sooner, as I will be able to call once we reach Alaska.
Speaking of phones, our cell phones do not work when we are out at sea. I do have a 40-minute ship-to-shore free call because of my Diamond status with Seabourn, but prefer to not use that unless most necessary.
May 22, 2017 – Last day of crossing – At Sea
An uneventful day, except for horrifying news that broke aboard the news channels of the Ariana Grande concert in Manchester, England. So many innocent lives lost. Prayers for all surviving friends and families.
May 23, 2017 – Kodiak, Alaska
The main city on Kodiak Island – Kodiak, originally inhabited by the Alutiiq natives for over 7000 years but settled in the 18th century by the subjects of the Russian crown and became the capital of Russian Alaska. All transportation between this island and the outside world goes through this city, either via ferryboat or airline. Purchased by the United States in 1867, Kodiak became a commercial fishing center which continues to be the mainstay of its economy.
Before leaving the ship today, everyone had to do a face-to-face with immigration officials. Everyone was so excited to be in a port today though I could have managed a few more days at sea – love them! We were greeted in port by more than a half dozen bald eagles soaring. overhead. They stayed most of the morning. Three of them sat for a long while in a leafless tree across the road from the ship. Beautiful creatures.
Many passengers have taken half day and all day tours going out into the wild. Instead, I took the shuttle (a yellow school bus) into town. Many passengers are saying nasty things about this town, but knowing one is coming to Alaska one must not expect the Italian or French Riviera!!! Commercial fishing is king here. Buildings seem to be original to the first settlement. Understand that there is a Walmart three miles out of town, but didn’t come all this way to go to Walmart! Visited a very old Russian Orthodox Church and walked around the town. Everywhere I look in the distance down the streets of Kodiak, I spy people walking around wearing the blue all-weather jackets given to us by Seabourn – we are easily spotted!
There is a little park (very little) which seems to be where those who have nothing to do just sit, rest and visit. The town is getting ready for a four-day annual crab feed down by the commercial fishing boats. Later today there will also be some craft booths set up in that area.
Remember watching the series “Deadliest Catch” with Adolfo - about fishing in Alaska. The boats involved in this series are in the harbor. Looking at them am fully aware of how small they are in relation to the huge seas they travel. That series and one other, the name of which I cannot remember, are based here in Kodiak, Alaska.
Residents in Kodiak live very simply. Many American transplants to this area first came to work in the canneries and then decided to stay. It’s appears to be a quiet life – no frills. The pace is slow, the scenery is beautiful and the people that we’ve met this morning are friendly.
On the water side of our mooring, beautiful snow peaked mountains rise in the distance – cannot decide whether this is all a part of Kodiak Island, or another part of Alaska – will have to look at a map.
We have some blue skies today, not too cold, but there is lots of wind. Am sitting out on the pool deck in a sheltered corner, drinking a cup of tea (yep, I don’t always drink wine!), and enjoying the vista.
Had dinner in Restaurant 2 with Mandy and Michael (from Melbourne). This restaurant is a very small venue, and is always a tasting menu. So rich – so good, with nice wine. The wine that surprised me was a 2015 Robert Mondavi, Private Selection 2015 Chardonnay. I don’t usually drink Chardonnay, but enjoyed this one a lot! I’ve just gone on line to check out this wine, and am surprised that it sells for anywhere from $7 to $17 a bottle – that’s quite a spread! Here’s the menu for the dinner:
· Chef’s Cocktail: Poached Shrimp Martini Balsamic Jelly, Split Saffronk Vinaigrette
· Foie Gras Crème Brulee, Syrah Honey Syrup; Soked Duck Carpaccio, Foie Gras Terrine, Arugula
· Shellfish Cappuccino, Seared Beef Crostini, Ginger Jello
· Roasted Dorade, Forked Potatoes, Braised Leek Ragout, Smoked Bacon Jus; Pan Seared Duck Breast, Porcini Risotto, Port Wine Reduction
· White Chocolate Mousse, Strawberry Compote and Almond Foam, Pistachio Cracker, Pineapple Sorbet
May 24, 2017 – At Sea on our way to Juneau, Alaska
Slept ‘til 11:00 am this morning! Eleven hours!!!! . . . . and the curtains were open . . . and the sun comes up here around 4:00 am – but then there was no sun – overcast, grey and rainy today!!
Another easy day today, played trivia, had a bite to eat (well, maybe 3 bites – little sandwiches again!) and shortly am off for another mani/pedi. That will be nice. Dinner with Althea from Brisbane – lovely lady – After dinner show featuring the Seabourn Vocalists – my favorites of any entertainment from any of our cruises. Each and every one is talented with beautiful voice, and together they are dynamic! The Sojourn will be coming to San Francisco in October and have made arrangements to host them for a dinner or lunch in the City.
May 25, 2017 – Coming into Juneau, Alaska.
Woke at a reasonable hour this morning. Water is like glass as we are now protected by land around us. It’s a misty and overcast day which masks the beautiful snow-peaked mountains, but every once in a while there is a bit of clearing. Am so hoping for some sunny days so that the beautiful panorama of the inland passage in Alaska can be fully appreciated.
There are so many tours this afternoon when we arrive in Juneau – the most I’ve ever seen in any port! When last here, Adolfo and I did several of the offerings, so am content to poke around the town of Juneau.
Juneau has been the capital of Alaska since 1906, when the government of what was then the District of Alaska was moved from Sitka as dictated by the U.S. Congress. The city was named after a gold prospector who hailed from Quebec - Joe Juneau. There are no roadways connecting this capital to other part of this state, this fact due to extremely rugged mountain terrain surrounding the city. All transport, either people or goods, must come in by sea or air.
This area is the home of the famous Mendenhall Glacier, on which we landed by helicopter and walked around – this done on a cruise perhaps 20 years ago! I remember the scary landing atop the glacier in what seemed like such a small flat space, and the precarious footing once out on the ice. It didn’t help to be wearing huge, heavy, and ill-fitting black rubber boots.
Have just returned from my Juneau jaunt. Am blown away by the number of jewelry stores – perhaps one per capita?!?!?!? Never saw so much jewelry - most of it really unattractive and/or way too big!! The center piece pictured below was approximately 1-1/2 inches across and 4 inches long. One would be permanently bent over while trying to carry this necklace.
Also saw his and hers bikinis made out of fur – took a photo of that because fog is still shrouding the beautiful mountains – nothing else to record, but ugly jewelry and fur bikinis!!
There is another ship in port, so there are lots of people around. It is my understanding that one more cruise ship is due this afternoon - lots more folks walking around this fairly small community.
Have decided that tonight I will either have a quiet meal by myself on the patio deck, or room service – need a rest from trying to be charming every minute – it’s often exhausting! Must share an important lesson I’ve learned on this cruise . . . agree with everything anyone offers in the way of an opinion, or keep silent while smiling cheerily.
Should I have the energy at 9:30, I will go see the special presentation of The Alaska String Band by a local family who are coming aboard for this performance. The ship leaves port shortly after sunset (9:39 p.m.) – probably around 11:00 p.m.
Unless something momentous happens – this is “it” for the rest of the day!
May 26, 2017 – Skagway, Alaska
This is one of my favorite stops in Alaska. The beauty of this port is without equal and because the sun is shining, am hoping to get some good photos today. The port is surrounded by snow-capped towering mountains, and with blue sky and a few clouds today, the beauty of the area is beyond my ability to describe. Have reread my journal for this portion of the trip in 2008, and found a poem which I will include once more.
Written in 2005 by Frank Esposito, M.S., entitled “Skagway” – written following his ride on the White Pass & Yukon Railway.
I have seen where the glaciers lie,
Where men and stone have touched the sky.
Men who labored against the mountains might.
Through wretching cold and lonely night,
In search of nature’s Midas touch of gold!
Bestowing men’s fortunes with dreams untold.
Their hearts were strong, their spirits bold,
Yet many succumbed to the mountain’s cold.
Men still search for nature’s treasurers,
With dreams of riches and abundant pleasures.
Yet, perhaps true riches lie, where men and stone have touched the sky.
Skagway’s population is just around 1000, and is located at the northern most point of the Inside Passage in Southeast Alaska, 103 air miles north of Juneau. Have been told to look for local art work that is stamped with “Made in Skagway”.
Walked almost three miles from ship to town and back. Very windy and cold near the port, but quite pleasant temperature in town because it is more sheltered. Along the way the White Pass Train chugged on its adventure up into the mountains. Adolfo and I did that trip in 2008. This year might be a correction from earlier in the journal as I found that I have all of my journals on the laptop and was able to go back to check that we were here not too many years ago – just nine – that was our second trip, so this one counts three for Alaska, and I would come back each and every year!
The town of Skagway, though much smaller than Juneau, boasts its fair share of jewelry stores. Seems that all, or at least most, of the stores are run by European Middle Easterners, and their behavior brings me right back to the Turkish bazaars. They stand out in the sidewalk, invite you in to just “take a look” at their wares, and then begin to “sell”!!! Some of the stores also have local carvings, figures made from stone and bone, and fossilized walrus tusk. These last have interested me – BUT – when I show the least bit of interest, the sales person tells me that since I am his “first” customer of the day (no matter the time!) he will give me a better price than marked. Don’t know why, but this is an instant turn-off for me and I leave the store, politely, of course. Tell him that I will be back later. . . never to return!
This may be a repeat, but let’s talk about the gem, tanzanite. It is a purple to violet jewel. Years ago it was quite popular and expensive, perhaps when first discovered, not certain. But it has been my understanding that within the last 10 years, the mine somewhere in Africa has played out and there is not any more genuine and natural tanzanite (of the purple variety) being harvested from the earth. Sooooooo, given the vast numbers of tanzanite pieces here in the stores of Alaska, one must assume that the gems here are all created by heating the property to create the various purple colors. It is also my understanding that when one has a colored stone created by man-made intense heat, careful care of the stone must be considered with regard to storage temperatures – either cold or hot, or both, so that the color remains the same as originally created. The following from the internet:
Note that a significant percentage of tanzanite crystals on the market have been heat-treated (400-500°C) to produce or enhance this color, many are originally brown or pale grey. A red tint seen looking down the c-axis is a good indication that the crystal coloration is natural. Note also that tanzanion is used as a synthetic simulant for tanzanite.
The last two days have been difficult for me – on the verge of tears, even with the natural beauty surrounding me, or perhaps because of it. Am flooded with memories – all good – but the finality of not being able to share travels with Adolfo any longer is now a reality, especially where we’ve travelled together in prior years. Have declined two days of offers to dine with others, trying out the solitude. Guess I’m not ready for it yet. Tomorrow have an invite from the cruise director, Sophie, and have accepted.
May 27, 2017 – Cruising Glacier Bay, Alaska
Awoke to grand scenery outside my suite. We have land very close to the ship on either side – rocky mountains rise from the sea – some as high as 15000 feet, little or no vegetation past the shoreline, topped off with snow fields and various glaciers. The water around us is beginning to fill with ice floe which must mean that we are getting close to where some calving of the glaciers has occurred.
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve – a natural lab, a wilderness, a national park, a United Nations biosphere reserve, and a World Heritage Site. Just 250 years ago, Glacier Bay was all glacier and no bay. A massive river of ice, roughly 100 miles long and thousands of feet deep occupied the entire bay. Today that glacier is gone, having retreated north. Fewer than a dozen smaller tidewater glaciers remain.
The day was perfect for viewing the beautiful and breathtaking scenery. Blue skies and just enough white puff clouds made the contrasts even more heart stopping. We were so very fortunate to spend some time at the far end of the bay, and the glacier there did its best to entertain us, calving several times with loud thunderous claps and an avalanche of snow and ice falling into the bay, creating even more ice floe in the water. It is not unusual to see calving of glaciers here, because some of these glaciers move as much as five feet a day. That’s a lot of movement for something so massive!! The color of the sea water here is that beautiful milky turquoise that is synonymous with glacial ice. We saw seals in the water, and some guests saw whales though I didn’t.
Ate lunch up on deck with my favorite Aussies, Mandy and Michael, enjoyed the scenery passing by while we were wrapped in our heavy jackets and blankets.
Sophie performed a beautiful pre-dinner show, gave a heartfelt tribute to her hometown of Manchester, England. Then enjoyed a dinner with lovely guests at her table. A good evening.
May 28, 2017 – Cruising the Inside Passage, Alaska
A quiet day today, as we cruise the inside passage. Our second to last day of Team Trivia, and our last formal dress night.
Am remembering how everyone dressed on our very first Seabourn cruise, way back when . . . I can remember going into the card room in my walking shorts and polo shirt, very well put together, and greeting three women at a card table who at 10:00 a.m. were suitably dressed in their almost identical St. John knits. After I’d been suitably checked over (to my discomfort!), said something cheery and left, never to enter the card room again! In those days one never saw anyone on a Seabourn ship in jeans, even really nice jeans. There were two nights each week of formal wear, two nights of casual wear, and the rest of the evenings were designated as semi-formal. One rarely saw a man without coat and tie in the evenings. I now see people arriving for dinner wearing jeans and super casual clothing. Okay, enough of that – this time I even wore jeans on shore in Alaska – seemed appropriate!!! . . . but never in the dining room!!!!
My dinner partner the other night was named Christopher. Asked him if he preferred “Chris”, or “Christopher”. He said either would be fine, but I could call him “darling”!! What a rascal!
May 28, 2017 – Cruising
Very quiet day, another hour pushed forward to get in line with current time at current destination. I forgot to change my clocks and wound up being late for everything in the evening.
The Seabourn Vocalists gave a wonderful show last evening, all music of Tim Rice from The Lion King, Evita, etc. These wonderful young people, Dan, Mollie, Ian and Kate, can really sing up a storm – they are wonderful!
May 29, 2017 – Cruising the Inside Passage
Today we cruise through Queen Charlotte Strait, Johnstone Strait, Race Pass, Seymour Narrows, Discovery Pass, Strait of Georgia, Boundary Pass and Haro Strait. Tomorrow will be our final day before disembarking on Wednesday morning. There will be opportunity to get off the ship and visit Victoria, B.C. Today I will drag out the suitcases from beneath the bed and begin my packing, make certain that all are tagged properly, and have them out in the hallway by midnight tomorrow eve.
Today is also the last day of Team Trivia. We are in the running for first place, lagging very slightly behind another team by a few points. The last question of the day will not only be important to know the answer, but to wager existing points against that answer and other teams. The trick is that each team won’t know how much other teams will be wagering!! Should be fun! Will post results later.
WE WON!!! Winning question with betting of points: Which country is the leading producer of cork? Knew it immediately, for certain! Finally earned my way!! The answer is: Portugal!! Can still see the cork trees in Sintra, Portugal, and learning that the bark regenerated itself so that it can be reharvested. We bet all of our points and led the second place team by over 2000 cumulative points. Will be bringing home a zippered, canvas tote, in white and blue vertical stripes, with the Seabourn logo on it – useful, good looking and easy to pack! A great prize!
Today has been a very restful day. The weather is absolutely perfect. Ate lunch outside on the aft deck, wearing only a light puffy vest. As we cruised through the inside passage, took some photos of beautiful forested areas, camp grounds, some gorgeous homes, mountains in the distance covered with snow, and the sea calm as could be. There is an outdoor event tonight, food and dancing – believe the weather will hold. Have declined a table invite with the current comedian entertainer, and am going to grab a drink (or two) and a bite to eat up on the grill deck, listen to the music, and enjoy my last lazy night aboard ship. Tomorrow night I will no doubt be packing, for I’ve done nothing today!
So, am off in search of a drink – and I have a new favorite – a Rum Old Fashioned. Especially tasty using Spice Gold Rum. Just add a slice of orange, a dash of bitters, a muddled or whole cherry, a little sugar, a bit of soda and you’re good to go! Cheers!!
May 30, 2017 – Victoria, B.C., Canada
Last night out on deck was fun - great music, epicurean event where booths were set up around the pool and small plates filled with pizza, smoked salmon, filet of beef, prawns, prosciutto and cheeses galore and all washed down with two different rum punches. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect – didn’t even need a jacket after the sun went down – a very nice way to end this cruise.
Today, many guests have left the ship for a tour of Victoria and surrounding areas – big on today’s list is Butchart Gardens, But, some like me, are ship bound and packing up their suitcases. And so, my dear family and friends, it’s time for me to get going and pull those suitcases out from under the bed!
Have had an interesting afternoon, and one somewhat stressful! Went into the safe to get out jewelry I brought and to package it carefully for the trip home. I have many bad habits, but today cured me of one, instantly!! When on a cruise, at the end of the day I often don’t put earrings back into their containers, but lay them on the mat in the safe – have always done this. Won’t do it again. One of my diamond stud earrings went missing!
I poked my fingers into every corner, looked under the mat, shook out other necklaces - - the earring would not be found – damnable earring! As I felt around the edge closest to the door, I felt several holes, just large enough for an earring to fall through. Stuck my finger in and couldn’t feel anything. Tried to stick my head into the safe to have a look and had visions of my getting stuck in there and having to be extricated at a later hour, or perhaps another day!
Called housekeeping – she came and said she’d have to call the ship’s carpenter. Two hours later he arrived, unscrewed the safe from the closet, took out the safe and shook it on to the carpet. Plink, Plink, Plink – there was my earring!!!
Believe this is a perfect time to end this journal. Am almost packed, and have a dinner invitation to join Dutch and Jan K. from Texas. Dutch and I were on the same Trivia Team, and had a few interesting political discussions.
Have just added my suitcases to the inventory in the hallway waiting to be off-loaded in the morning.
And so, my readers, you have my thanks for plowing through my many words. Will be leaving the ship tomorrow morning at 9:00 a.m., be driven to the airport and be home by late afternoon. This has been a trip full of self-discovery which should make my next vacation much more enjoyable. Once I quit worrying about “me”, the days were much more pleasant!!
One last giggle . . . saw this sign at the airport prior to boarding my flight home.
. . . . one would certainly hope so!!!!!
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