Pre-Cruise
From Barcelona to Athens, cruising the Mediterranean while feasting on tidbits of the different regions, tasting wonderful wines and filling the heart and soul (perhaps my brain will engage) with culture . . . . I hope to convey my experience for a lasting memory. Two suitcases are already on their way, and will arrive at the port in Barcelona next week. I'll have a couple of days to reacquaint myself with the wonderful city of Barcelona, and in particular, the exceptional Gaude treasures of this beautiful city.
October 3, 2018 - Getting There! SFO to JFK, New York City My day began at 3:00 a.m. - seriously considered cancelling the whole trip. Didn't sleep more than 3 hours - kept waking up and checking my carry-on and one suitcase. Everything was there, but perhaps I should check just one more time!! Pickup by Christian at 5:30 a.m. He's been driving for Adolfo and me for about 15 years - always good to see him. Flight took off on time and because of a speedy tailwind got in one hour early. So tired when we boarded that all I could think of was sleeping. Accepted a Mimosa, but turned down the dinner and slept for three hours. Yesterday, I joined "CLEAR" which allows easy access through security at all U.S. airports. Though I joined it, one must get fingerprinted and meet certain other criteria when at the airport. Went through security there usual way and then remembered to ask about CLEAR. So went back and started all over, because there was another line I should have entered to get all necessary info into my file. Now it's all done. We'll see if this is worth $179 annually - will let you know! I can also add two family members, so John and Sandi, for our next trip will do that on my return. Must say that traveling in airports with my new ankle is not as daunting as it used to be. I hustled, got directions to the international terminal, walked maybe two miles (felt good to be moving after the flight!). Though in the last few years, I usually walked on the automatic walkways, this time I walked alongside. Not one twinge from my ankle. Am now comfortably ensconced at the Sky Club for Delta, just three gates from where I will board the next leg to Barcelona. This club is really something. There is a full service (almost 40-foot long) bar, manned by three uniformed bartenders. There's nothing you can't order!! I settled for a Sauvignon Blanc (Proverb) from California. It's good! . . . or I'm just thirsty! Over the bar are six huge televisions, each on a different channel. I can't see one table in three huge rooms that is not occupied. And there are constantly raised voices with people speaking on their cells who must believe that the phone in itself is not enough of an instrument to convey their voices at a normal decibel, but must shout!! Texted the family that I was on the ground at JFK with a 4 to 5-hour layover. Steve immediately texted back that I should get a Nathan's Hotdog. He said the stands are everywhere! Well, Steve, in my long hike to my current spot, didn't see one Nathan's!! David has let me know that he's joining me in Barcelona, and since I didn't invite him to go with me, has begun his long swim, in wetsuit, and is currently off the coast of Spain, closing in on Barcelona. Told him I would watch for him!! Look out for sharks, David!! That's all for now. Think I will chill a while, and then totter off to my gate. Hugs to everyone at home! One last thought . . . my last vacation was with the entire family in Hawaii. Wish you could ALL be with me right now. There is such good energy when we are all together!!
Hotel Murmuri, Barcelona
Well, here I am, sipping Sauvignon Blanc and waiting for a cheese plate of local fare. The bellman just helped me figure out how to get on the internet. We made so many changes to preferences, doubt my computer will work when I leave this place.
At any rate, crossing the Atlantic in a Delta 767 was smooth. Everyone in business class wrapped up in white quilted blankets (looked like a bunch of mummies!) - how do they do it? - sleep throughout a long flight. I stay awake because someone might need my help to keep the plane in the air!!!
This small boutique hotel, the Murmuri, is really sweet. In a great neighborhood with lots of shops, the requisite Haagen Das (HAH!) nearby, and there are tons of Starbucks everywhere in the city - is there anywhere they are not? My room is extremely small, clean and with all the essentials. Am on the sixth floor and have my own private balcony that boasts two chaises and two chairs. I could have a party! The cheeses are wonderful. Sweet waitress named them all (can't remember, nor pronounce). Beautiful marmalades served with and a light sprinkling of peppercorns to add a dash of heat to the mix. Really pretty and very tasty!
Should have taken this photo before I ate the first cheese!!
The city of Barcelona has so many unique touches. Most buildings are decorated with all kinds of wrought iron railings on the balconies. Although a little like what you might find in New Orleans - different in that they, too, are pretty but less graceful. There are a gazillion plein (sycamore) trees that line most streets that we rode through this morning. The bark is such a pretty camouflage pattern. The trees are old, sometimes cover the street with a canopy of leaves overhead, but they look thirsty!! And then there's the Gaudi . . . . more on that tomorrow, as I have a four-hour private tour with an expert. Well, the cheese has been consumed, the wine drunk, and I'm ready for bed even though it's only 1:00 p.m. Will set my alarm for a couple of hours, then take a walk. Am remembering my last visit here with Adolfo - bittersweet . . . .
Barcelona
At 9:45 a.m., Carlos (driver) arrived at the hotel and we awaited the arrival of Natalia who would be my guide, primarily of Gaudi treasures. We soon were off driving through the crowded streets of Barcelona, dodging buses, trucks, scooters and pedestrians. Driving in this city is a constant occasion for prayer!! Can't believe how closely vehicles press together to eke out the least little space that will get them closer to their chosen destinations. Amazing that there are not more accidents - actually didn't see any.
Still pretty tired and not sleeping at the right hours, so my energy level is low. Decided to only study the facades of several Gaudi buildings, and that from the comfort of the car. However, would walk the Sagrada di Familia and Park Guell (pronounced "guay").
The city is very crowded with tourists. There are three HUGE cruise ships in port, those that carry 3,000 passengers, plus! That's a lot of people walking around!!
The beautiful cathedral of Antoni Gaudi is a miracle. You can find all of the pertinent data if you google it, so I will tell you that from the perspective of the ordinary person, the cathedral evokes the wonder and majesty of the spirit, both in heaven and on earth. It beckons one to pray and to rejoice in the wonder of the extraordinary gifts bestowed by God upon rare humans such as Gaudi. Some would call it folly, but it appeals to me in so many ways, guess I could be a little crazy!
Gaudi's use of stained glass (very modern and colorful) becomes vehicle for colored stains on the stone walls as the sun shines through and creates a veritable wonderland of soft color.
Yet again, many of the windows have the pattern of stained glass, but remain uncolored. The contrast is incredible! Ceilings in the Sagrada are so high as to hurt one's neck. We all craned to get our eyes up to the topmost design. Gaudi's structural designs came from his love of nature. The many columns in the church resemble trees, with their branches reaching out to hold up the ceiling. From some vantage points it evokes a forest.
The four main columns in the center of the church are dedicated to the four apostles - Matthew, Mark, Luke and John (did I get that right?). Over the altar is a canopy from which floats Christ on the crucifix.
Am not certain how parts of the ceiling were created, but I thought of fine lace - another contrast to the huge, stark columns. The color is a pink gold - oh my goodness - the whole of it is beyond my ability to describe. Half way up toward the ceiling are accommodations for a one-thousand person choir. The sound must be glorious! The last time in Barcelona, I remember Adolfo and I touring the inside of the church and walking on narrow temporary walkways through the construction. It was difficult to imagine what would result just 15 years later. Though I could go on, believe if possible, would like to come back in ten years to see this again. There is still much work being done and the finish date is projected to be in 2026. Meanwhile the huge construction cranes hover over the creation, moving slowly back and forth with purpose. During Pope Benedict's time, he did come to the Sagrada to consecrate the church. Right now there are no Sunday Masses, but only an occasional special celebration on Easter, Christmas, etc. Beautiful bronze doors at one of the church entrances (photo on left below) and above on the facade are depictions of the Stations of the Cross.
Another difference from our last visit would be that there is now no admission without payment at the gate. Last time it was free. There is much construction going on. Looks like they are doing their best to preserve this special place. Believe it has been given a UNESCO Heritage designation. After the Sagrada, we drove to Park Guell. This park was created to be a place where the wealthy of Barcelona would have homes in a park-like setting. For many reasons, this plan did not come to fruition. The entrance to the park has colorful buildings and a stairway that only Gaudi could have created. For me it's like an adult Disneyland, without the rides. So pretty - perhaps the houses could be compared to gingerbread houses - well sort of . . . much is created from broken chards of china and pottery in a haphazard mosaic fashion. How did Gaudi come up with the combinations! How interesting it would have been to be in his mind.
My tour was to last four hours, but by the beginning of the fourth hour, I was done. Took us about 30 minutes to get back to the hotel. Had a light lunch and a short nap which turned into 3 hours. Would I have the energy to meet my travel agent and go out for a tapas crawl late in the evening? We'll see.
Note: I did ask Natalia if anyone had ever counted the plein trees in Barcelona. She said that there were over 300,000!!!
At 6:30, went down to the lounge and had a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, then a second glass. By now it was 7:30. My bed was sounding better than tapas, so ordered a cheese plate.
In the lounge there were three young men who were at times, loud, morose, sweet - you name it - every emotion was on display. I was aware from the periphery while reading. Then there were goodbyes, two left the lounge leaving the third alone and I forgot about him. At 8:15, decided to call it a night and went to the bar to settle my bill. There was the third fellow sitting on a bar stool - still drinking. Our conversation went something like this:
He: Hello, you're amazing, where are you from, you're amazing.
Me: San Francisco
He: Love San Francisco - I'm gay and don't have a boyfriend.
Me: I'm straight and don't have a boyfriend, either.
He: Please let me buy you a . . . (he held up a tequila shot).
Me: No, thank you, if I have one of those, I won't make it to the elevator.
With that I signed my bill and wished him a good night - chortling all the way to my room. As I left I heard once again how "amazing" I was!
Apparently, I'd just missed Eric, who came down to do the tapas crawl just 15 minutes after I'd returned to my room. Oh well, another time.
Boarding the Encore Today I board the Seabourn Encore. Am excited to be on this ship, one of the two largest in the Seabourn fleet, though I believe there are only 750 passengers. Took a short walk this morning and found a wonderful sweet shop - just looked!
Received a telephone call from Eric who suggested that when I check out, I go directly to the marina. Boarding of the ship would probably begin at 12:30. So, checked out, ordered a cab, and as I waited for it, there was Eric. Adolfo and I'd done business with Eric Goldring for 15 years and had never met him. He business was originally out of New Jersey and he was recommended as a Seabourn expert. We were always pleased with what he could do for us, so have remained with him. Two years ago, he moved his business to Truckee, California. We shared a cab to the marina and the adventure began. This ship is very beautiful - quite elegant. Getting around is pretty easy because although different, the planning of the ship is much like the footprint of the Odyssey class ships - just larger shops, spa, and more dining venues. Had a few moments of unease because the two suitcases that had been picked up at home two weeks ago were not in evidence. Only had the one case with casual clothes that I'd brought along with me. Had an invite to dine with the two cruises directors, but couldn't say "yes" 'cause I had no appropriate clothing! At a little after 6:00 the cases arrived in my suite - thank goodness! And, did have a very nice dinner with Chelsea and Henry, and two other men traveling alone. It's nice that they try to put people together who don't have a partner along with them. We had a lively discussion at table, lots of laughter, and the food was wonderful. Enjoyed the Thomas Keller choices - so delicious. Will talk about food further in this journal.
Mahon, Menorca
Mao-Mahon, sometimes written in English as Mahon, is a municipality, the capital city of the Island of Menorca, and seat of the Island Council of Menorca. The city is located on the eastern coast of the island, which is part of the autonomous community of the Balearic Islands, Spain. Mahon has one of the largest natural harbors in the world: 5 km long and up to 900 meters wide. The water is deep but it remains mostly clear due to it being slightly enclosed. It is also said to be the birthplace of mayonnaise!
Awoke to an overcast morning in port at Mahon, Spain with just a bit of sun poking through and thought this photo below quite pretty. Not certain whether or not I'll be leaving the ship to tackle the hundreds of steps into the town, but I may do so later. Wanted to get this journal up to date first, and arrange to have clothing steamed. Two weeks in suitcases makes for some interesting wrinkles, even though I had everything in plastic bags.
I did venture out late morning, and no sooner had I climbed down the gangway steps, the wind began to howl, the sky began to spritz. I dashed to a local bazaar and poked around there for a little while, but when a canvas cover decided to dump its accumulation of water down the back of my shirt, decided it must be an omen and headed back to the ship. After a light lunch, decided on a nap which turned out to be a four hour marathon sleep!! Woke in time to answer the phone to find out why I hadn't responded to a dinner invite - hadn't known about it - believe housekeeping hid the invite! At any rate, decided to go. Dinner with the Staff Captain, Daniel Nikolov from Romania turned out to be very interesting. A couple from Kentucky and Florida (depending on the seasons!) were very nice, and once again I had John from Britain at my table. Good company, delicious food once again. After a trip to the blackjack table (very short as cards were awful) went to the evening entertainment where Seabourn singers and dancers performed a wonderful program of old music. I say this with tongue in cheek, as most of the music was from 50's, 60's and 70's. Thought oldies were from the 30's and 40's?!?!?! The talent was quite wonderful, but had to leave abruptly when one of the performers began a heart-felt rendition of "Wind Beneath My Wings" reminding me of Christina's funeral Mass. These sharp remembrances are like ambushes!
Marseille, France - Chateauneuf du Pape and the Cote du Rhone
Marseille is the second largest city in France after Paris. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Mediterranean. On an island in the expansive bay of Marseille stands the prison of Chateau d'If made famous by the Alexandre Dumas novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." The Vieux-Port with its atmospheric buildings and wharves is the area where visitors can search for the perfect example of the local specialty bouillabaisse, a rich fish stew containing at least three, and often more varieties of local fish.
If memory serves me, believe this is also the port from which my mother, at age 6 months, sailed to America with her family in 1913.
Believe we were to go to La Joliette, France today, which would have required tenders being lowered from the ship to get us ashore. Then a berth opened up in Marseille which will allow us to walk ashore.
Today is the first event of my culinary/cultural experiences. Not certain what we're doing, but have been instructed to meet the group at 9:15 - promptly. Will have more to report later and hopefully some good photos. Although right now the skies again look threatening.
Met a dozen fellow travelers who are participating in the Ensemble group led by Eric Goldring. We piled into two vans and headed off to the beautiful wine area of the Chateauneuf du Pape which is surrounded by the Cote du Rhone. During the one hour plus ride, the skies opened up and the noise was so loud with drops pounding on the tinny roof of the van that conversation was almost impossible. We were headed to the oldest winery in the Chateauneuf du Pape - Chateau La Nerthe.
Parts of the chateau date back to the 16th Century. Though I believe the winery was established in the 1800's - not certain.
In the 14th century, Pope John XXII created the vineyard which was one of the first in Provence. History then graced the Chateau with a double distinction: the chapel is now a registered historical site and the terroir has been awarded the honor of "Cru Classe".
When touring in Europe, am always amazed that guides take tourists through areas where there is construction, where floors are flooded, where there are no rails, where stairways are crooked and uneven in their depth and height. We did all of this, were careful, no one was injured. My ankle got a good workout - is swollen today, but pain free. Wonderful.
Our guides were our two drivers, Eric (another Eric!) and Stefan, together with Silvie from the winery. Their English was good, but with the French accent spoken just a bit too quickly and it was difficult to get the essence of their message. Also there is the issue of my diminished hearing - will get to a solution for that on my return home!
The winery is beautiful - all mellow woods and old stone, and the aroma that always accompanies a winery takes me back to the basement on my Nonna.
In 1994, Bernard Teillaud became the owner of the castle with the goal of preserving its charm and turning it into an artistic haven. Today, Chateau St. Roseline has nearly 108 acres where 11 different grape varieties grow. Over the centuries, the estate has nearly always been passed on from mother to daughter, each giving their own feminine touch to the making of their Grand Crus.
Individuals who buy this wine often leave it at the winery for storage. Storage areas have their names on brass plates (not shown here). This is especially true of some of the more expensive wines owned by high-end restaurants.
In this wine area, Grenache is "king"! I learned that there is not only a purple (black) Grenache grape, but also a white Grenache grape. And, in the tasting of the wines, found those made with the white Grenache a feast for my palate. Mostly Grenache is used for blending, but occasionally there is a wine solely made from the Grenache grape. Usually, the largest cask in the winery is used for storage of the Grenache.
We tasted many wines, I bought six bottles to take back to the ship for a special evening or two - and in case my children are wondering - I did not join the wine club!!!
Then we were off to the Chateau des Fine Roches, for a beautiful gourmet lunch and more wines to taste. I'd just about hit my limit!! Beautiful vistas were visible from the restaurant, and by now, we had some much wished for sunshine.
After lunch there was yet another winery for tasting, but try as I might, I'd had more than enough wine. Did try a couple, but when one has had enough - - - ENOUGH! There was a beautiful herb garden here where I wandered, and a lovely olive tree that had lots of river rock artfully placed at its base. Thought that was a beautiful way to present the tree.
On the way back to the ship in the van the rain storm re-emerged with a vengeance. The skies opened up and it was still pouring when we arrived at the ship, a long way from the gangway. Eric grabbed my six bottles and took off, we all followed trying to dodge puddles that were most like lakes. We were all soaked by the time we reached the ship, though it was good to be back "home". Dined tonight with entertainer, Davie Howes, from Britain. There were ten at table, and I was the only American. Rest were all Brits, Aussies and Welch. Nice table, though a tiny bit stodgy. Davie will be performing tomorrow night and think he will be worth it to stay up for the 10:00 p.m. show. Note to David: Captain just announced that because of terrible weather in St. Tropez, that stop has been cancelled for tomorrow, and we are heading straight to Corsica for a two-day stay in Ajaccio. Reason for the cancellation is that with seas this rough, tendering ashore won't be safe, and there's no guarantee that if we do get ashore, we'll be able to tender back to the ship. I only tell you, because your swim will have to re readjusted!!!!
Ajaccio, Corsica
This is the view from my veranda. Picture perfect!
It's a pretty nice day today. Weather mild. Slept in - first really good night's sleep. Spent the morning at Seabourn Square, sipping my latte and catching up yesterday's journal. Almost time for lunch and then maybe a nap (albeit, a short one!).
Tomorrow morning, will venture ashore and do a bit of poking around in Ajaccio which looks like a pretty place for a walk. More later . . . . .
Eric hosted a cocktail party for his Ensemble group up on Deck 12, in an area known as The Retreat. Seabourn has designed separate cabanas for maximum privacy. It's very quiet there, but the way the cabanas are arranged, there is no access to the beautiful sea. One's vision is totally blocked by the cabanas. Strange. And, you have to pay extra to spend the day there. Not for me 'cause I'd rather sit out on my private veranda and watch the sea go by.
Eric has arranged another special day for us when we get to Monte Carlo that includes more wine tasting, a car tour of Nice (where Mama was born), ride on the middle Corniche, and some other goodies. He's taking really good care to assure that we have a wonderful trip.
At the party was invited to dinner tomorrow nite by another two couples, and again the following evening that will include Eric. They all know I have that really good wine from Chateauneuf du Pape!!!
After the party, joined Fabrizio Cerruti, who is the Hotel Manager aboard ship. He's got personality jumping out of all his pores! His hands are in constant motion while he speaks. Yes, he's Italian from Turin, so he's Piemontese just like Mama. Speaking of Mama's, his Mama was at table with us. She's a lovely woman, doesn't speak any English, and is spending the week with her son on the cruise. She has been widowed about one year. Liked her so much - she's gracious and pretty and I wish my Italian language was a lot better!! Also at table were people from Australia and Switzerland. We had lots of fun. The evening just flew by.
After dinner attended the show of Davie Howes, with whom I had dinner last evening. He's wonderful! Talk about energy?!?!? He played piano, pocket trumpet (really tiny), a regular trumpet and a larger trumpet (great description - yes? . . . duh . . .). He also played drums, sang and had an ongoing patter with the audience. Most entertaining. He was good at everything even though slightly crazed in a good sort of way. The finish brought down the house as he turned an ordinary walker upside down, and proceeded to blow into one of the legs and had it sounding like a horn. Am certain that all of us retirees in the salon are going to try that when we return home - and some might not wait to get home as they probably have a walker aboard the ship. Returned to my suite and found I had a visitor left by the stewardess!
Next day - still in Ajaccio.
Just went for a long and fast walk into the town of Ajaccio. Forgot my telephone in my suite, so was unable to take photos of the local outdoor market which is filled with local salumi, cheeses, fresh fruits and vegetables. They were beautiful!
On the way back to the ship ran into Davie Howes who straightened out the different size of trumpets for me - from smallest to largest - pocket trumpet, regular trumpet and fluegelhorn. So now you have it!
It is warm and very muggy outside so it's good to be back in the air conditioned ship. Just tried for the second time to make an appointment for manicure and pedicure. They have only one person to do those services aboard - not nearly enough for this passenger list. First complaint for me! So, will do what I do at home and when the shop opens early this evening, will purchase necessary items and do my own fingers and toes.
This next description of Ajaccio comes from the daily ship's bulletin:
Ajaccio is all class and seduction. Commanding a lovely sweep of bay, the city breathes confidence and has more than a whiff of the Cote d' Azur. Everyone from solo travelers to romance-seeking couples and families will love moseying around the center, replete with mellow-toned buildings and buzzing cafes - not to mention its large marina and the trendy des Sanguinaires area, a few kilometers to the west. The specter of Corsica's general looms over Ajaccio. Napoleon Bonaparte was born here in 1769, and the city is dotted with sites relating to him, from his childhood home to seafront statues, museums and street names.
On my walk, like in so many cities of Europe, I noticed the pervasive smell of tobacco. Don't know how people here could function without coffee and cigarettes!
The evening proved an exercise in patience. Was invited to dine with two couples from the culinary group, and was certain they said to gather in the Thomas Keller lounge for drinks at 6:00 p.m. However, no one showed up. Had a wonderful conversation with the piano player, and then Eric appeared and kept me company for a while. Then decided to forego a formal dinner, and went back to the suite for a club sandwich, French fries, and a bottle of white Bordeaux. All delicious! Watched the movie "Oceans 8" and then went to sleep! Movie just okay . . . . Tomorrow we have a tour of Monte Carlo area, including Cap Ferrat, Nice, Middle Corniche and another wine tasting. Will get a chance to hear what went wrong with last night's plans. We have more plans tonight. Must make certain to get it right this time!!!
Ship's internet was down for almost three days, so am now playing "catch-up".
At 6:00 a.m was awakened by a shuddering of the ship and realized that the tugs were pushing us into place at the pier in Monte Carlo. It is pouring rain - virtual buckets! Perhaps it will clear before our tour this afternoon. Hope so!
Time to go get my coffee - more later . . . .
The Principality of Monaco is the epitome of Riviera chic. This tiny enclave of 370 acres surrounds a sheltered harbor that draws yachts from around the world to enjoy the beautiful scenery mild weather and elegant casino. Glamorous Monte Carlo is one of Monaco's four quarters, which also include La Condamine, the business district; Monaco-ville, the capital; and Fontvielle, an area but on reclaimed land. Ruled by Prince Albert II, Monaco has population of over 32,000, of which about 16 percent are citizens, or Monegasques.
It's also famous for its annual Formula 1 Grand Prix, held every year in May since 1929.
The rocky outcrop known as Le Rocher, which juts out on the south side of the port and is home to the total palace, is a rather charing little old town which feels a world away from Monte Carlo's skyscrapers and super yachts.
Wonderful afternoon! Even though the rain continues to plague us – Monte Carlo and environs are beautiful. The choice is whether we look at the scenery or the fancy yachts!
We boarded a small bus and began our trek to Chateau du Billet. Billet is a very special wine area in France – not a lot of vines, not a huge production, but a favored region for wine drinkers. The original family established the chateau somewhere in the 1600’s and began making wine in the 1800’s. There is a beautiful stone chapel that was built in 1873 in which all baptisms, marriages and special sacramental events were held. That was up until 2012 when the winery was sold to a French company. The chapel now is the tasting room for the winery. Ever been to a tasting chapel?!?!
Portovenere, Italy
Portovenere is a beautiful little town. If Cinque Terre were ever to add a sixth town to its five villages, then Portovenere would be the logical choice, but then it could no longer be called "Cinque" Terre! "Sei" Terre doesn't have quite the same ring to it!!
We are anchored off shore at Portovenere. Was up early to take photos and remember the great times our family had here last July. Have decided not to go ashore today, because nothing at this stop could top the memories of last year. But did take photos!!
The day ended with a cocktail party for our very special group, held in the beautiful Spa Suite of Barry and Irene. This suite is quite large, on the aft deck of the ship, and has a balcony that gives one a 180 degree view of wherever you are. We had a perfect evening to enjoy not only the beautiful suite but were able to be outside for the sail away and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
When in Corsica, Eric had purchased some local wines and lots of salumi and cheeses that we could enjoy. Together with smoked salmon, lobster and caviar prepared by our chef, we nibbled very well. The hit of the evening for me was an aperitif by name of Vin du Myrte. A lovely liquid somewhat like a light port made from myrtle. Really delicious and will try to have some at home, if I can find it in the states.
That evening in the Colonnade Restaurant they were highlighting the food of Italy in their Tuscan Market dinner. I was disappointed. The dinner is served buffet style. All I really wanted was a little bit of pasta, a tiny salad and so too bed. The meat dishes were supposedly stews, one of chicken, one of pork, and another with some sort of fish. All looked like watery soups - most unappetizing. The pasta was a concoction of sautéed veggies and stewed, shredded veal, mixed with undercooked pasta (really undercooked!). Unappetizing and not good, even a little! On the up side, I wasn't about to starve! Civitavecchia, Rome, Italy
Civitavecchia is the port closest to Rome, perhaps a one and a half hour ride into the city. This was the day I'd waited for - cooking in Rome!!!
Our group met at 7:45 a.m. (this is a vacation!) - but we were all on time and into one bus to a depot just a few blocks away to get on a smaller bus, and we were off for the City of Rome. We would meet our chef at 10:00, go to the market to buy groceries and then go to his kitchen to turn the groceries into wonderful treats.
The markets of Europe, especially Italy, feature artfully arranged fruits, vegetables, salumi, cheese, meats, fish, etc. A feast for the eyes!
Don't know what these spiny looking cucumbers are and the apples caught my eye because they appear to be named after grandson "Trent". Papa and I called him "Trentino" when he was a baby! . . . or maybe it's the apples?
On to the kitchen of Matteo, which is located just one block from the Church of Rome - St. John Latteran. Matteo is an enterprising young man who is marketing well, and beginning to have some acclaim with his ability to teach others how to cook simply, but deliciously! His kitchen has 16 cooking stations, each with its own sink and four-burner induction stove top.
On the menu today were ravioli and tiramisu. And so we began with a tutorial on how to make a tender, delicious pasta. All purpose flour and fresh egg - mushed around in a bowl until all bits of stray flour were amalgamated into the mix - then remove from the bowl and proceed to knead with the heel of the hand, folding over carefully - repeating the process until the texture was just right. Then the pasta ball was wrapped in Saran Wrap to set.
Then on to the sauce made with chopped small tomatoes, grown locally and of course, organically. Toss the chopped tomatoes into hot olive oil, two cloves of garlic, and a half very small, but potent chili pepper, leaving seeds in. Let that simmer, add a little water and continue to simmer while on to making the ravioli.
We used a hand crank pasta machine putting the pasta through on the highest number and gradually working down to make the pasta thinner and thinner. When just right, we removed pasta to our cutting boards, covered with saran to keep from drying out, and tended to the sauce some more.
The filling for the ravioli had been made by Matteo while we watched. It contained fresh ricotta, freshly cooked and drained chopped spinach, some herbs, salt and pepper to taste. Each station had a bowl of the filling. As we set water to boil, each made five ravioli - putting five small mounds separated by a three-finger width, on the lower half of the pasta strip. Then fold over the top to meet the lower margin. After pressing pasta around the ricotta mound, making certain to remove all air pockets, took the rotary cutter and trimmed away excess pasta, leaving enough to seal around the edges with a fork. They were now ready to cook - only 2 to 3 minutes - in a slow but steady simmer.
Finished ravioli were very tender, didn't break up in the cooking and very mild in flavor. Found the sauce good and the only thing that saved it was the chili pepper which added lots of zest. Forgot to take photos of the tiramisu, but that preparation was pretty straightforward - a custard made by the chef and then we layered it into individual ramekins, dipped lady fingers into very strong Italian coffee, topped with more custard and finished with powdery chocolate. It was good, but not so memorable for me! Now, on to my favorite. With the left over pasta (we'd only used one half of the ball), Chef Matteo set up the pasta machines so that we could make spaghetti and then taught us how to make the sauce for Caccio e Pepe. Such a simple but super delicious pasta and one that will become a favorite for me once I get home. Olive oil mixed with lots of grated cheese (he had us use Pecorino Romano, though think I'd like to use one half Pecorino and one half Parmesan) - once blended nicely, add lots of pepper and use some of the pasta water to thin out the sauce to make it creamy. Cook the pasta (2 minutes), drain and slightly cool before adding the sauce. That way the cheese won't clump. He then taught us how to put the sauced pasta into a ladle and twirl it with a large fork so that you can make a nice mound in the center of the plate. So easy to do and so pretty in its presentation. Top with a little of the creamy sauce and you are ready to eat - and I did. Made up for disappointing pasta the night before. You can giggle at the photos below - I sure did!!
A very "full" (in all manner of speaking!) and rewarding day. Back to the ship and found a beautiful fresh bouquet in my suite.
This will be a night in-suite with a hamburger, a glass of wine and a good night's sleep!
We toured a part of the vineyards on foot, then the wine making facility, and then to the chapel for local salumi, olive tapenade, and cheese while we sipped a favored white and one red wine. These wines were not to my liking – doesn’t mean they weren’t of good quality, but just not for me. Kids, I didn’t buy any!!!
Photos of Eric Goldring Culinary and Cultural Group, 2018!!
Back to the ship we headed, while trying to see the beauty of Cap Ferret, Villefranche and Beaulieu – difficult with the pouring rain and the fogged up windows of the bus.
We were able to stop for one hour in Nice, and the rain even stopped for us! Walked about looking at the restaurants, perfume shops, and souvenirs. Stumbled upon a wonderful store that featured Provencal linens for kitchen and did some damage to my credit card. Bought really pretty and colorful items that will enhance my Thanksgiving tables. Can’t wait to use all of it. It will be further special because it was purchased in the city of Mama’s birth!. . . . . and on a street where Henri Matisse lived!
During the afternoon Eric asked me if I’d like to join him in the Thomas Keller Grill for dinner. Wasn’t that nice? If only I could grab a nap beforehand! Tried, but alas, could not sleep. So, instead had a glass of wine and got myself ready.
The Thomas Keller restaurants on the Seabourn ships boast staff specially trained by Thomas Keller, with his specific recipes for anything prepared there. When the Encore had her maiden voyage, he was aboard and could be seen often at patrons tables preparing the salads himself! That would have been fun.
The wine purchased in the Chateauneuf du Pape region had been picked up from my suite and stored in the main dining room. Arranged to have a bottle of the white and one red brought up to the grill so that we might enjoy it with dinner. The test for me once I buy wine is – will I like it as much as the day I bought it? I did! The wine was even better with a lovely meal.
One of the specialties for the evening was duck, which I love. Eric ordered for us – we both wanted the duck, and then he proceeded to order every side they offered so that I could taste each! That was fun! . . . creamy mashed potatoes, roasted potatoes, creamed spinach, sautéed mushrooms, lovely caramelized carrots – all were tasty, but my roasted potatoes are much better. . . . and David’s mashed potatoes take the trophy!!
The duck was the best ever – I could eat it every night while on this ship – but won’t!
We began the meal with the iconic TK caesar salad prepared tableside by one of the sous chefs. And we ended the meal with the sundae – Eric said we couldn’t leave until we had it. By this time we’d been joined by another couple so with four spoons, we devoured the dessert. The bottom of the sundae container is filled with homemade marshmallow, then topped with vanilla ice cream, followed by both hot fudge and caramel sauces and topped with whipped cream and a cherry – pure decadence and so delicious!!
Almost forgot! Eric’s favorite meal at the TK Grill is their whole roasted chicken which serves two persons. After the duck, Eric insisted that we order the chicken – was he crazy? He did that! The chicken came to the table in a beautiful sizzling tray and was carved on the spot. Could I eat still more? Well, I barely tasted my portion, and though it was good, I found it way too salty. The chicken is brined three days prior to cooking – moist chicken is wonderful, but salty is not.
What a delightful day!
Amalfi, Italy
Deemed by UNESCO to be an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, the Amalfi Coast is a beguiling combination of great beauty and gripping drama: coastal mountains plunge into the sea in a stunning vertical scene of precipitous crags, picturesque towns and lush forests.
Among the glittering string of coastal gems, legendary Positano and Amalfi sparkle the brightest, while mountaintop Ravello has the glossy fame of its grandiose villas and Wagnerian connection. Amalfi Coast gateway Sorrento is a handsome and venerable cliff-top resort that has miraculously survived the onslaught of package tourism.
Aside from its sheer beauty the region is home to some superb restaurants and hotels. It is also one of Italy's top spots for hiking, with well-marked trails providing a great means of getting away from the coastal clamor.
The day began with beautiful skies, a gorgeous sunrise, and the lowering of ship's tenders. We were anchored off shore at Amalfi and would tender back and forth. Was determined to find a Mass to attend this morning and got to the Church of San Andreas just before Mass began. Had to climb 57 steps to get there!!
It was a high Mass, with a choir of children. The priest spoke to the children for almost 30 minutes, elicited some giggles and asked lots of questions. It could have been a First Holy Communion, but it wasn't. Lots of singing, beautiful church, love Mass - a great way to begin my day. After a very short walk around town, headed back to ship and a nap before getting ready for the formal night.
Was seated at the Guest Services Manager at dinner with, once again, a group of Brits. This bunch was lots of fun and I had a really good time. Shall remember this as the "blue" dinner. For some reason, all photos taken in this part of the dining room pick up a blue light - weird.
Siracusa (Syracuse), Sicily
More than any other city, Siracusa encapsulates Sicily's timeless beauty. Ancient Greek ruins rise out of lush citrus orchards, cafe tables spill onto dazzling baroque piazzas, and honey-hued medieval lanes lead down to the sparkling blue sea. It's difficult to imagine now but in its heyday this was the largest city in the ancient world, bigger even than Athens and Corinth. Its "Once Upon a Time" begins in 734 BC, when Corinthian colonists landed on the island of Ortygia and founded the settlement, setting up the mainland city four years later. Almost three millennia later, the ruins of that then-new city constitute the Parco Archeologico, della Neapolis, one of Sicily's greatest archaeological sites. Across the water from the mainland, Ortygia remains the city's most beautiful corner, a casually chic, eclectic marvel with an ever-growing legion of fans.
However wonderful that may be, we had other plans today, and what a day it was. Our small group met with Chef David, who is a Seabourn Executive Chef. He goes from ship to ship making certain that the Seabourn tradition is upheld and fixing it when things fall short. We learned today that he will also be on our cruise to the Antarctic in January - can't wait! Today Chef David would take us to a local market where we would sample treats, shop and be treated to the merchants who sell their products here. I use the word "treated" because they are very entertaining, shouting and smiling and offering tastes of fruit on sharp knives to passers-by. The merchants are almost more colorful than the fruit and vegetables. Everything purchased today was to be prepared for us aboard ship, in an orgy of food and wine the next day - just for our wonderful small group. Though I can try to describe the markets, photos in this regard tell the best story. At every stop we were offered tastes of the fresh fruits.
Chef David scrutinizing the fresh fruit!
Very ripe persimmons
Pastes of a variety of nuts - pistachio, etc.
Could this be a prickly pear?
Ripe lemons that are green!
Chef David
Tiny pears grown locally and very sweet
The best cheeses, this one with pistachios.
. . . or are these prickly pears?
Dark red smooth mound is tomato paste!
Sun dried cherry tomatoes
Lots and lots of fresh fish!
The cheese maker par excellence!
Our last stop was at a cheese and salumi shop. This is a particular friend of Chef David and we were ushered past the crowds near the tasting stand at the front of the shop to the inside where (can't remember his name!) told us about making the cheeses. He then brought out some buffalo mozzarella made from both buffalo and cow. It was still warm - only two hours old. He began to prepare a beautiful Italian ceramic platter filled with goodies - chunks of mozzarella, some with garlic and olive oil over the top, locally made salumi, cheese with peppercorns, and more! Then we were handed glasses of wine and the feasting began. Can't convey how wonderful everything tasted. One more cheese was brought out - Boccaccio. This is a Pecorino Romano that is finished off by leaving the cheese round in an almost empty barrel of red wine for however many days. The cheese not only develops a beautiful red wine color on the outside, but is lightly infused with the wine aroma.
But, there was more. Chef David arranged for each of us to leave with a huge wedge of the Boccaccio cheese and a whole salami (with pistachio). Each item was vacuum sealed and we were told that we should be able to take it home. So, family, prepare to sample when I get home. If they confiscate these items at customs, I may just create an international incident!! . . . and then there was still more, We were presented with freshly made cannoli - John, where were you??? I am not a fan of these sweets, but if I could have this particular one, would probably eat them every day. Imagine a beautiful crisp shell filled with freshly made, light and not too sweet, mascarpone. Yum, yum, yum!!! Will I fit in the airplane seat on the return home?
My day was not done. After a short nap in the afternoon, met Eric at the Thomas Keller grill and we enjoyed dinner with another two bottles of the Chateau du Nerthe, purchased in the Chateauneuf du Pape. That wine is simply delicious. I still have two bottles of the red that is being saved for a dinner with Eric, Sheila and Jeff on Thursday. The chef in that dining room has promised that I can have the duck once again. This particular chef came to our table last evening and asked where I lived. When I told him he laughed, held out his hand and said he'd grown up in Napa - small world. That's all for today, folks. Be prepared for tomorrow's food presentation. It ought to be memorable!!
Crotone, Italy
Crotone is the City of Pythagoras and only this suggests old Kroton has a lot more to it than at first meets the eye. In fact, Crotone is the oldest part of Magna Grecia in Calabria, while at the same time being the youngest province in Italy. Between the two, ad awful lot has happened in 5000 years.
For a start the land has been constantly eroded by the Neto river which flows from the Sila mountains once a favorite spot for Virgil. This has left many small coves and beaches popular with tourists. Some of them also harbored the Greek fleet which at one point was set alight by the wives of the sailors who were tired of traveling.
Today was a scheduled special event. We'd been instructed not to eat breakfast or lunch because Chef David would be preparing all the goodies we'd purchased at the outdoor market yesterday. At 1:00 p.m., we gathered in a part of the outdoor dining of the Colonnade Restaurant which had been set up with screens so as not to tempt any of the other guests aboard ship! Again, will let photos do the majority of the work here!
. . . and to finish with a lovely tiramisu made from amaretti soaked in Amaretto, and a custard that was more like a zabione (sp?) than a custard, and topped by fine cocoa. A wonderful way to spend a late lunch, accompanied by wines of the region. Eric Goldring does really take very good care of his travelers!! As if that wasn't enough, we all retired to the pool deck bar and enjoyed the afternoon. Then was so tired, but knew I had to eat something before retiring. The sushi restaurant is just around the corner from my room, so I entered as they opened. Told them I knew nothing about sushi and to just feed me a little. Without saki, five dishes later and with five more to come, I halted the beautiful and delicious presentations. Should have taken photos!! . . . and so to bed . . . .
Kerkira (Corfu), Greece
At the end of his travails, a weary Odysseus was shipwrecked on the vernal island of the Phaecans, who patiently heard his tale before setting him on a boat home to Ithaki. This island is modern-day Corfu and you can expect the same level of kindness from this cosmopolitan jewel.
Ever since it was first settled by the Corcyrans in the 8th century Corfu, or Kerkyra (ker-kih-rah) in Greek, has been an object of desire for both its untamed beauty and strategic position in the Mediterranean. It was a seat of European learning in the early days of modern Greece, with cultural institutions such as libraries and academic centers. To this day Corfiots remain fiercely proud of their intellectual and artistic roots, a legacy visible from its fine museums and cultural life.
Venture up its woody mountains studded with spear-sharp cypress trees and explore vertiginous villages, coves fringed by cobalt-blue water, and the fertile interior filled with olive trees.
Remember that I went to bed early last night. That meant that I had no maid service, nor did I have any important announcements, like the time changing!!!
So not knowing that I'd set my phone for 7:00 am. which would give me plenty of time to get a coffee and meet the group at 8:15 for our walking and tasting tour of Corfu. Woke at 6:50, opened my door to get any mail in my slot outside, and lo and behold, my clocks hadn't been changed!!! It was really one hour later!!! Skipped the coffee, tore into my clothing, slapped on some makeup, brushed my teeth and the phone rang. . . Eric . . . where was I? Said I was on my way, ran down the stairs and was only three minutes late!!
Today was a really fun day, a marathon for my new ankle (it did fine!), and especially a challenge to walk the uneven stone streets of Corfu. Our guides were two sisters - so charming and knowledgeable, and downright fun! Again will narrate the photos - very picturesque and charming city.
Wanted to leave the group here and swim . . . Even if I had to climb down these stairs!
After walking the park area and learning the history of the island, we began our tasting.
Kumquat liquor - fabulous!
Award winning olive oil - $75 per bottle!!
Wonderful cheeses . . . and more
Sweet 'N Spicy Shop
Spices and olive oil We rested during a beautiful lunch, al fresco. Greek salad, more cheeses, pasta with a beef sauce and chunks of beautifully cooked beef in it. The pasta was mostaccioli, and the sauce was accented with cinnamon. There is a huge Italian influence here in Corfu so pasta fixed many different ways is a major part of their diet. Even their local language has some of the same words as Italian. Of course, lunch was accompanied by the requisite ouzo!! Then back to the van where we proceeded to the villa that is the filming place for the television series, The Durrells, and the promise of an elegant Greek wine tasting. Such an old building, with lots of character even though a bit ramshackle. The wines were interesting (there were 13 of them!) and two were very special for me. I still have no taste for the retsina wines of Greece. I hope each time that I taste them that perhaps my palate will have matured - but no way!! Can't really equate the taste of tree sap in my wine!!
Miniature wild cyclamen.
Harvesting olives at the villa
Beautiful spread for the wine tasting.
Villa owners olive oil - each presented a bottle
Malagousia - light, floral, delicious (white).
Ammos Nemea - lovely red much like Merlot When the van dropped us off, we were to take a shuttle back to the ship, but I needed to stretch my legs, so took off and walked about a mile back to the ship. Kept up a pretty good clip, got most of the alcohol fumes out of my system! Back to the pool deck bar where we watched local dancers perform on the outdoor stage. Then back to the room for a hamburger and Caesar salad. Perfect! Glass of very cold Sprite - no more wine today.
Katakolon, Greece
The seaside Greek town of Katakolon, with a population around 600, is your typical small-town cruise port. Fishing boats bob in the harbor; cafes lace the waterfront; shops sell t-shirts, has and jewelry and a small beach draws swimmers and splashers. Drive 40 minutes from Katalolon, and you are transported back thousands of years. Stroll the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ancient Olympia, and you walk in the footsteps of early Greek and Roman athletes, wrestlers, chariot drivers, discus throwers, runners and long jumpers who vied for glory and the gods' favor. Stand alongside the massive columns, and, with the tales of a good guide, you can envision the once magnificent temples, athletes training in the palestra and runners readying on the track. Alexander the Great, Nero, Plato and Aristotle are among those who watched the games from where you will stand.
Even after a very good night's sleep, am tired, so have opted out of today's jaunt to Olympia. Believe almost everyone has done the same and perhaps Eric went with just one of the couples in our group. Have spent the morning catching up the last two days' journals, and am going to nap again shortly. Have also decided that this will be a kidney recuperation day, and will drink tons of water. No wine until tonight! Tonight we have our last dinner in the Thomas Keller grill. Eric and I are dining with Sheila and Jeff and we will enjoy the last two bottles of red Chateau la Nerthe. I have been promised a repeat of the duck from the chef and am starving today so that I can enjoy tonight!! It's a beautiful day today - that makes two days in a row. Blue, slightly hazy skies, no threatening rain and mild temperatures. Began organizing my clothing prior to taking the suitcases out from under the bed tomorrow. Otherwise, had a lazy day. A short nap, shower and I was ready for the dinner in the TK Grill. Everyone on the tour has been talking about a really good Sancerre. I have never liked it in the past, but because it seemed to be a favorite, bought a bottle for our cocktail hour. It seemed good to Eric and Jeff, but my palate still doesn't take kindly to the taste of it. Eric decided that this one was not the best, but the only one offered on the wine menu. Oh well, there are other wines . . . . Tonight's dinner was to be more special than we even thought it would be. Chef Michael, from Napa, outdid himself. Can't remember if I related this, but Michael trained with Thomas Keller at French Laundry, and then opened Bouchon. He comes to the ship with really great credentials, and once again, our dinner was over the top! First course was a smoked salmon carpaccio, with capers, etc. Michael asked if we would trust him to complete our meal without regard for the menu - who would say "No"!!! So delicious and so beautifully presented.
Then came a delicate foie gras, on buttered Parker House bread toast, with a bit of truffle puree . . . oh my goodness . . . there was no chatter at the table, just a symphony of "yums". The ridiculous thing is that I haven't favored foie gras in the past, and may never have it again, unless Chef Michael prepares it for me!
Our main was to be duck, specially requested, but lo and behold, we'd run out of our wonderful wine from Chateauneuf du Pape, so had to buy another comparable wine and chose this one. Twice the price of the Chateauneuf wine (but did get a 15% discount!). It wasn't that great, but oh well, we were spoiled by the two previous bottles. Thank goodness, that no one had to drive home tonight. I could actually crawl back to my suite if necessary and not have to navigate any stairs. I did walk quite steadily!
Michael then asked if we would trust him with dessert. He prepared a most unusual Floating Island, or Isle Flottante. The base of the dessert was a lush tapioca pudding. The egg was a meringue, shaped like a half egg white, filled with a berry marmalade. Dots of the meringue together with a bit of mint puree completed this delicious dessert, together with a piece of dark chocolate. The plates were all eaten clean!
By this time, Sheila had retired, we were the last in the restaurant, and it was only 11:30 p.m.! The guys went on to the bar, and I headed back to my suite and was asleep before my head hit the pillow.
Nafplion, Greece
Nafplion is by far one of the most beautiful and romantic towns in Greece. Known to the world as an important center of the Ancient Greek civilization, the enchanting seaside town of Nafplion amazes every visitor. The town used to be the capital of Greece from 1829-1834 and is now the administrative center of Argolida prefecture, Inhabited by a population of around 12,000, the town thrives on tourism throughout the year. The town itself dates back to the Neolithic period and is also surrounded by the World Heritage sites of Epidaurus and Mycenae. Nafplion is located less than two hours' drive by car from Athens, on the Peloponnese peninsula. The beautiful old city has a wealth of narrow alleyways and streets, steep stairs, taverns serving delicious Greek food, lively bars, clubs and cafes with a lovely seafront promenade.
The day was just too smoggy for a good photo from the ship, so will have to see if I can get a photo from the internet (above). The fortress in Nafplion dominates the harbor and is a site that Adolfo and I climbed around when we were here about six or seven years ago. Hard to believe that it's been that short a time.
Rather than go ashore to trod paths already taken with Adolfo, began my packing. And, prior to our next and final culinary event, managed to get the two suitcases that would be
sent home, packed to the brim, and labelled. There was a bit of a snafu in that I had to contact guest services to be certain that Luggage Free (not "free"!) would pick up my luggage. That solved, made deposits on two more cruises which will allow an additional 5% savings. It is not necessary to know the destination. The deposits are good for four years, and if you don't use them, then your money is returned. Then it was time for the last and yet another special culinary event. During the two weeks on the ship, Eric and the Chefs had collected lots of wines, cheeses, etc., that had been saved. Today was to be a multi course formal dining experience. We had a table for 12 in the huge dining room, and we were the only people there. Both Chef David and Chef Michael, together with the ship's Master Sommelier, Karen (from Canada), hovered and made certain that we wouldn't forget this experience.
SPANISH PULPO BRAVO
charred octopus, spicy potato, marinated garden vegetables, paprika espuma
FRENCH LOBSTER AND CREVETTE SOUFFLE
newburg foam, parmesan gratin
SEARED MEDITERRANEAN BRANZINO
Italian tomatoes, capers and olives
NATURAL APPLE SORBETTO
lemon and thyme granite, grey goose vodka
CORFU BEEF SOFRITO
white wine, garlic, feta salad
GREEK LOUKOUMADES
honey sauce, roasted pistachio
SELECTION OF CHEESES
Needless to say, not a one at this table wanted dinner this night. Back to packing and getting ready to leave the ship next morning.
Pireaus (Athens), Greece
This photo was taken from the veranda of my suite. It was still dark outside, but most passengers were up and getting ready, as we had to vacate our rooms by 8:00 a.m. I was due to leave the ship at 8:30 a.m., and had a car and driver waiting to whisk me to the airport.
In a country that is known globally to be suffering economic woes, I found it startling that all the taxis waiting for ship's passengers were pale yellow, and beautiful new Mercedes sedans! Found my driver and off we went.
First question out of his mouth was "What do you think about your President Trump"? Gave my stock answer of not caring much for the personality, but liked most of the policy. . . . and he was off and running. Spoke about how lucky we were to have such a strong leader (I kid you not!). and on and on. Didn't have to say another word - not that I would have even if he'd been totally against the president. Have learned when traveling that it's best to keep one's mouth quiet, not always an easy task for me!
Athens to JFK/NYC, dashed through customs and then on to SFO. Home by 12:30 a.m, Sunday morning. After a short sleep, made it to Mass and breakfast on Sunday, and life is back to normal though I now have to clean my own shower, cook my own food, and there are no menus to peruse!
PS: Eric is planning another Culinary and Cultural Cruise beginning August 3, 2019 - Copenhagen to Copenhagen. I've already booked it, so have to lose the five pounds I just put on, and lose more so that I have a cushion - well, I already have a cushion - I mean so that I can get rid of my cushion . . . oh well, you know what I mean . . .
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