October 28 - Panama Canal
Following the failure of a French construction team in the 1880s, the United States commenced building a canal across a 50-mile stretch of the Panama Isthmus in 1904. The project was helped by the elimination of disease-carrying mosquitoes, while chief engineer, John Stevens devised innovative techniques and spurred the crucial redesign from a sea-level to a lock canal. His successor, Lt. Col. George Washington Goethals, stepped up excavation efforts of a stubborn mountain range and oversaw the building of the dams and locks. Opened in 1914, oversight of the world famous Panama Canal was transferred from the United States to Panama in 1999. Bolstered by the addition of Madden Dam in 1935, the Panama Canal proved a vital component to expanding global trade routes in the 20th Century. The transition to local oversight began with a 1977 treaty signed by U.S. President Jimmy Carter and Panama leader Omar Torrijos, with the Panama Canal Authority assuming full control on December 31, 1999. Recognized by the American Society of Civil Engineers as one of the seven wonders of the modern world in 1994, the canal hosted its one millionth passing ship in September 2010.
It is my understanding that there is a new canal built by China, right alongside the old canal - particularly for the larger ships on the seas. From my side of the ship, I don't see another canal. Have been told that our ship being smaller than many others, is traveling the older canal. I slept through our entry into the canal this morning and woke to find the ship in the middle of Lake Gatun. Hope to stay awake for the passage through the locks into the Caribbean. Awaiting entry into the last locks of the canal. Lots of ships here!
Am going to have an easy day today - hardly anything to eat and drink (except water, water and more water!) - some days you just need to rest the liver!!! Did manage some photos as we approached the Gatun locks at end of our canal journey.
Our trivia team really rocked today - we did very well, and believe moved up in the ranks. Will find out more the next sea day.
Out of what wood did Noah build the ark? Gopher Wood
On what day did the Panama Canal officially open? August 15, 1914. (one of our team did a little research on that one before trivia, and we were ready!)
In which state is Yellowstone National Park acreage mostly located. Wyoming. (Felt I knew this one absolutely but one Brit was certain it was Montana! - Stuck my neck out and wrote down Wyoming!)
As we left the last lock of the Panama Canal, the skies opened up. It has been pouring since then, approximately two and a half hours, and it doesn't show any sign of letting up. So wish I could send this rain up to the fires in the wine country of California. Lots of traffic now that we are through the canal - much of the ships are container, or working cargo ships. The seas are a bit rough tonight, so am extra glad that I stayed in. Will order room service soon and settle in with a movie.
October 29 – Colon, Panama
About 50 miles northwest of Panama City, Colon is home to the northern gateway of the Panama Canal as well as Afro-Caribbean descendants of those workers who helped build the canal in the early 20th century. Colon's greatest claim to fame - and the main reason visitors come here - is the Colon Free Zone, a massive shopping showroom where wholesalers retailers and the general public shop. You'll also find Colon 2000, a cruise ship port with restaurants, a supermarket, and shops selling duty-free merchandise. Just west of the city, at the mouth of the Charges River, Fort San Lorenzo is a well preserved colonial military structure. Colon is the second-most populous city in Panama by population.
Today I was scheduled for the Monkey Watch and Canal Nature Cruise touted to be a wealth of sight and sound combined with the thrill of speeding through the Panama Canal next to the mighty ships transiting this man-made wonder. I was to see Capuchin monkeys, three-toed sloths, howler monkeys, various kinds of toucans and other bird life, caimans, crocodiles, turtles and numerous butterfly species.
When I woke this morning, it was still pouring rain - another tour not taken!!!
Meanwhile, the scenery from my balcony is breathtaking! I could stay home and see this in the Oakland Estuary!!
While sitting out on deck reading two days of Wall Street Journal, received a phone call from son, Stephen. At home, we've had no power for four days and looks like it can go to six days! Son is now tasked with emptying my freezer and fridge and throwing out most everything - another UGH!!!
Just received these two photos from Stephen - all done just in time for garbage pickup on Wednesday. Thank you, Steve!!
Appreciate that I still have a home standing - so many others have lost so much . . .
October 30 - Cartagena, Columbia
The "Old" Cartagena
The city of Cartagena, known in the colonial era as Cartagena de Indias, is a major port founded in 1533, located on the northern coast of Columbia in the Caribbean Coast Region. It was strategically located between the Magdalena and Sinu rivers and became the main port for trade between Spain and its overseas empire, establishing its importance by the early 1540s. During the colonial era it was a key port for the export of Peruvian silver to Spain and for the import of African slaves under the asiento system. It was defensible against pirate attacks in the Caribbean. Cartagena is the capital of the Bolivar Department, and has a population of 971,592 as of 2016. It is the fifth largest city in Columbia and the second largest in the region, after Barranquilla. The urban area of Cartagena is also the fifth largest urban area in the country. Economic activities include the maritime and petrochemicals industries as well as tourism. The city was founded on June 1, 1533, and named after Cartagena, Spain, which in turn was named after Carthage in Tunisia. Settlement in the region around Cartagena Bay by various indigenous people dates back to 4000 BC. During the Spanish colonial period Cartagena served a key role in administration and expansion of the Spanish empire. It was a center of political, ecclesiastical, and economic activity. In 1984, Cartagena's colonial walled city and fortress were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The "New" Cartagena
Looks like we have a beautiful day today. Not too many clouds in the sky. Am slated to go on a four-hour tour of the National Aviary of Columbia. One and a half hours of that time will be used up in transport to and from the Aviary. This is known as one of the finest aviaries in the world, renowned for housing a very high number of species. Makes sense as Columbia boasts the world's greatest bird diversity, with more than 1900 species. What an adventure we had today. Quite a long ride over ill-paved roads - 25 of us heading out to Baru Island, through industrial areas - cement and brick factories - in an old, small bus that could barely make it up a slight grade. Thought we might have to get out and push the bus to the top! Finally there - so hot and humid. Beautiful facility created by someone fairly wealthy who'd also created a marine park on another island here (there are 27 islands in Cartagena). He wondered how he could get the birds away from the fish (they were feasting on them), so he decided on a bird sanctuary - smart - it worked!
We began on foot through the totally caged facility, each species completely protected from others, double doors between each section providing safe passage of visitors without mixing up the bird species. Nearly half way through and I realized that my legs were on fire - some small creatures were feasting on me. They'd been waiting for imported blood. Thought they might be mosquitoes - but maybe something else. Raised huge red welts that itched like crazy, and had the same effects on my skin as fire ants - had that experience in Fiji many years ago! In addition, at least twice, the top of my head was either pooped or peed on by some invisible (to me) avian creature.
Given the meal these little critters were having at my expense, decided to keep moving at my own pace, swatting, itching and rubbing my sore legs as I toddled along, trying to take photos with my camera without the camera slipping out of my very wet and sweating hands. My only hope could be that the bus would still be there in the parking lot, with the A/C on and I could rest there waiting for the others. Prayers were answered.
A flamboyance of Flamingos!!!
Our local guide on this jaunt was very good - told us lots about the local life, more than I can remember. Was once again so grateful to be born in the United States.
Not a bird!! This creature dropped out an overhead branch, right at my feet - gave me a scare!
Briefly, 70% of the population is considered “low class” (that was the guide’s term). They make several hundred dollars a month and pay at least a third of that in rent. Believe he did say that they were on full medical assistance. We passed through some of these neighborhoods and conditions didn't look very good. Twenty-five percent of the population, are considered a little better off, make upwards of $1,000 to $2,000 a month, and pay for part of their medical. Only five percent are considered wealthy, make between $10,000 - $30,000 a month. Believe the guide, Sergio, told us that they pay for a greater percentage of their medical - perhaps all of it. On our way back to the ship, the skies darkened and rain came with a flash of lightning, a very loud clap of thunder and we were inundated. Did take photos from the bus, but you won't get the full effect of the rain which even penetrated the roof of the bus!!! Yes, it rained inside! The streets were awash, drivers were acting erratically in order to avoid huge lakes and streets turned into torrential rivers, instantly formed. Saw two fender benders. Trucks darted out in front of us, only to be honked at while our driver sat on the brakes. Our driver was really pretty agile behind the wheel - and all of this done without the use of windshield wipers - they did work later on, so am still wondering why he didn't use them immediately.
When we got back to the ship the driver pulled up right next to the gangway, and even though the rain had let up a bit, I decided not to use the umbrella and was soaked by the time I ascended the steps behind some very slow passengers!! Oh well, had to shower anyway, to get the pee and poop out of my hair!! Local folkloric troupe came on board for entertainment at 6:30 p.m., followed by dinner at the Thomas Keller Grille with my new friends. the Aussies and Kiwis. They are such good company, so sorry to see them all get off the ship in Miami. Tried a new wine last evening, will post that photo later, as we are now out to sea. Also had my first glass of Cristal Champagne - delicious!!! - courtesy of the Aussies!
Another very good wine!!
October 31- At Sea
Happy Halloween! There are little pockets of Halloween decor all over the ship.
A quiet day - of course, there was Team Trivia - we did just okay.
Ghoulish Cake at lunch.
Tonight is a formal night and another Chef's dinner - many courses, tasting menu. The menu was pretty much the same as the one previous. Did find another very good wine - and will look for this when I get home.
The name, "il Bugiardo" intrigues me because translation is "the liar"!!
Was curious about the name so googled it and here's a quote that I found:
“If this is not Amarone, then it is a lying wine!” This was the exclamation of an experienced sommelier, when he tasted our first Ripasso wine in 2000, an incident which gave birth to the name of our wine, “Il Bugiardo,” or “the liar.” Clever! Wine appears to sell between $25 and $30 - will definitely look for this one when I return home.
"Bad Guys" in the Casino!! James, Stelios and Kyle.
Dinner with the Kiwis (Jack and Lynn), me, and the Aussies (John and Gerri) - lovely folk!
November 1 - Port Antonio, Jamaica
Port Antonio is the capital of the parish of Portland on the northeastern coast of Jamaica, about 60 miles from Kingston. It is the island's third largest port, famous as a shipping point for bananas and coconuts, as well as one of its most important tourist attractions, tourism being a major contributor to the town's economy. Port Antonio was a settlement first established in Spanish Jamaica, when it was known as Puerto Anton. Portland formally became a parish in 1723 by order of the Duke of Portland, then Governor of Jamaica after whom it is named. The existing port was to be called Port Antonio and was slated to become a naval stronghold. To that end, by 1729, the British began to build Fort George on the peninsula separating the twin East and West harbors, known as the Titchfield promontory. The fort was intended to protect settlers from attacks by the Spanish from the sea, and the Maroons (runaway slaves) who lived in the mountains.
Port Antonio was a sleepy coastal town until the 1880s, when Lorenzo Dow Baker started the banana trade in Jamaica and successfully promoted Port Antonio as a destination for wealthy American travelers. "Portie" became a boom town. The banana trade and the tourists who came in the banana boats was once so large that at one time, weekly saying from Port Antonio was greater than weekly sailing from the great English port of Liverpool.
The island was glamorized by Hollywood as a model of paradise in movies of the 1940s and 1950s, and in later movies such as Club Paradise and Cocktail. This image was added to by the arrival of movie star Errol Flynn in 1946 when his yacht, the Zaca, washed ashore in bad weather. He subsequently bought nearby Navy Island, part of historic Fort George in Port Antonio, as well as hundreds of acres of farmland along the Portland coast.
Last evening was invited to dine at a table hosted by the Environmental Officer, but our host was a substitution because the EO was not feeling well. She was seasick!! Yesterday was a little rocky. Our host was the First Officer, who is on the bridge particularly when we are entering and leaving ports. He told us that the Sojourn would be the first ship of this size to enter this small port.
On my first look out this morning, the area seems very pretty, heavily forested, lush and green, and again, a bit steamy!!! Hope to go ashore in a little while for a walk around. There are some ominous rain clouds overhead, but perhaps they will recede. It has rained and appears to be clearing for a while but now a new bank of clouds is appearing, really dark - will no doubt rain again. Went to guest services to see what there is to see off the ship - not much - can probably get a really good lay-of-the-land from the top deck of the ship. Very picturesque port! While at guest services thought to get some advice about where I could mail a box home when we dock in Miami on November 4. The wonderful guy at the desk said they would mail a box for me, what size did I need, to come back in 30 minutes and he would have it for me. That is so nice! Will save me running around when we get to Miami. Have to go get my box!! Had lunch with the Kiwis and Aussies and they reported on a tour that was a bit depressing. Lots of men doing nothing (because there's not that much to do!). Perhaps if smaller cruise ships begin coming here, then some sort of industry or jobs might develop. Most of the men were stoned - the smell of marijuana is everywhere. Streets are dirty. Definitely the Rastafarian culture in full bloom. The photo below was taken by Jack, one of the Kiwi/Aussie foursome that have made my trip so enjoyable . . . at the Blue Lagoon.
The flowers certainly are beautiful!
Some of the crew went to the beach where they filmed the movie, Blue Lagoon, and there were drugs aplenty - rather off putting for them. A couple of the pretty girls on the crew didn't feel too safe and came right back to the ship. Dined out on deck with Nina and Diana. Nina is the mother of CNBC Foreign Correspondent, Richard Engel. We were joined again, late in the meal, by Teresa, the Hotel Director. Teresa is a really lovely woman, the first female HD for Seabourn - she is charming and well respected by the crew. Our favorite waiter, Steve, found a bottle of the Valpolicella that I tasted the evening before, and in fact, at the end of the meal brought me an unopened bottle so that I could take it to my suite! Lovely!
November 2 and 3 - Days at Sea.
Easy day on Saturday, Team Trivia, where we are playing steady - not shining, but in the middle of the pack.
Dinner last night with Larysa who is a band singer in The Club. She is a charming girl, very gracious. Others guests a bit difficult. When you are invited to a table, you must try to contribute and converse. Know that sometimes it is difficult, but feel that some guests don't even try - which leads to your leaving the table at end of evening, totally exhausted, and happy to be back in your suite as you crash into bed!
Sunday morning - calm seas, sunshine, moderate temperatures. Also heard from Sister Gervaise, that she got picked up in San Rafael, arrived at the airport and is waiting for her flight to Texas, and then on to Miami. Will meet up with her tomorrow morning when the ship docks. Anxious to see her - it will be fun to relax in the Caribbean with her!
Today is our final round of Trivia. Believe there will be a bit of gambling with our accumulated points - let the fun begin. This is often where those who are clever with the gambling AND smart with their answers, can rise from last place and win the whole thing.
After Trivia, Teresa Haughey, the Hotel Director, has arranged a "ladies only" luncheon at 1:00 p.m. She is such a charming young woman - should be fun. The luncheon was wonderful - cooked especially for us by the Chef de Cuisine, Lindsay. Lots of laughter and wine. Tonight is our farewell dinner with Gerri, John (Aussies), Lynn and Jack (Kiwis). They depart tomorrow and I will certainly miss them. Will be seeing Gerri and John in late April 2020, before I board the Sojourn once again in Sydney. Though they live in Brisbane, they'll be coming down to Sydney to have a meal with me prior to my departure. Gerri is a talented jewelry designer in her homeland, and one of note. She has worn incredibly beautiful and very wearable pieces on this trip. One pair of pearl earrings were extraordinary. Complemented her so many times that on the last day, she offered to sell them to me - I jumped at her offer so am returning home with a wonderful remembrance of new friendships. Before dinner, out on the pool deck was a culinary experience, with such delectables as tuna tartar, beet cured salmon, exotic cheeses, champagne and caviar, of course!!
Dinner was fun up in the Colonnade, with more Cristal and some fabulous Australian wine, courtesy of the Aussies.
Just prior to going to sleep, received an email from Gervaise that she'd arrived safely in Miami and was checked into her hotel.
November 4 - Miami, Florida
Beautiful outlook from my balcony this morning! From my perspective on the ship, these buildings seems to rise out of the sea.
Gervaise was up early and watched the ship come in from her balcony at the hotel, and sent me this photo!
We'd docked early, but for some reason the ship failed to clear so that guests could debark and be on their way home. Usually everyone leaving the ship is off by 9:15, give or take a few minutes. Debarkation usually begins around 8:00 a.m. Not this morning. Lots of delays, so that some guests who had planes to catch were getting nervous and cranky!
Even those of us in transit (perhaps 40) had to clear the ship and go through immigration and customs. I'd purchased something in the jewelry shop and had my receipt. Knew I would have to pay a bit of duty. They were so disorganized in customs. I waited 40 minutes through the process (with no one before me) and finally was through, only to wait to get back on the ship - perhaps another hour.
There was also a crew changeover, not everyone, but enough going home and enough coming on board so that process also got hung up with the delays. Finally back on board. Read the newspaper and then went out to the terminal to await Gervaise's arrival. She arrived shortly after noon. Walked with her through the check-in process and we were ready to have lunch in the Colonnade. It will be so nice to share this next 12 days with her.
After showing Gervaise the ship, her unpacking, and a short rest for me, there was the emergency drill to which every passenger must attend - or be kicked off the ship before departure! Then the sail away on deck with lots of live music, passed canapés and fruity drinks.
We'd decided to sit out on deck for the sail away and then stay for an informal supper. The cool breezes were blowing, and humidity seemed to be done - finally!!!!
Early to bed, and so our Caribbean adventure (sans Cuba!) begins.
November 5 and 6 - At Sea
Another easy day at sea - which is fairly smooth. Lots of wind though, making some of the doors most difficult to open.
We have two interesting speakers aboard. The first, we met yesterday evening at sail away - Dr. Helen Aves, who is a geologist and cultural historian. Fairly interesting talk about earthquakes and catastrophic events in the Caribbean. Did nod off a couple of times. Her next talk with be tomorrow about Haiti - should be interesting.
Gervaise relaxing on our balcony
The "wow" speaker was Major General Craig B. Whelden, U.S. Army (Retired) who spoke about "Remembrance - 9/11", and related the changes we've made in security, and our ability to communicate between governmental departments so that (hopefully) this will not happen again. It was a sobering hour, but one made really interesting by this dynamic speaker. Though Whelden is now retired, he has become a motivational speaker and I can see why! He is handing out his new book to each and every person he meets, so I will be bringing home "Leadership - The Art of Inspiring People to be their Best." He will be giving three more presentations and will be attending those.
Then to top off our day, we were invited to dine at the Captain's table! In all the years I've traveled with Seabourn, this is only the second time this invitation has been forthcoming. Dinner attended by Captain Hamish, his wife Gail, a couple from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania and another couple from the Australia, the Raymonds. Great conversation, lots of laughter. Captain Hamish is so personable, not at all stuffy, as was my last experience at a Captain's table. His wife, Gail, is lovely. As we were saying goodbye, the Raymonds asked if we would like to join them for dinner the following evening, but we couldn't because we have reservations at the Thomas Keller Grille. So we made the date for Thursday night. Wednesday - a very quiet morning in our suite. Gervaise has been feeling a bit of "Mal de mer" - but with her wristlets she is feeling better. There's Trivia at noon, then perhaps lunch in the Colonnade. More later . . . A quiet afternoon. Wonderful dinner in the Thomas Keller Grille. Theresa, the Hotel Director, joined us for a bite to eat, prior to being called somewhere to put out another "fire". She is so busy and I wonder at her ability to keep smiling and constantly be on an even keel - no pun intended! Am falling down on the job with regard to taking photos of food, and will try to do better in the coming days. Eric, if you are reading this, not able to steal your wonderful food photos on this trip, because you are not present!!!
November 7 - San Juan, Puerto Rico
San Juan is the capital and most populous city in Puerto Rico. Founded in 1521 by Juan Ponce de Leon, who named it City of Puerto Rico (Rich Port). Five centuries ago, San Juan was an impenetrable fortified city. Today the capital city of Puerto Rico, is one of the top destinations in the Caribbean welcoming travelers from all over the world. Visitors of all ages and interests will enjoy seeing unique attractions and landmarks in San Juan, Puerto Rico. The list of places you can visit is long, including world-renowned UNESCO sites such as the San Juan National Historic Site. Several historical buildings are located in San Juan; among the most notable are the city's former defensive forts, Fort San Felipe del Morro, Fort San Cristobal and La Fortaleza, the oldest executive mansion in continuous use in the Americas. The charming Old San Juan will transport you back to colonial times. Bring comfortable shoes, because you'll want to walk every cobblestone street, with bright candy colored homes. Explore scenic waterfronts, centuries old forts, museums, charming plazas, excellent restaurants, shopping, and the sure to experience the vibrant culture by attending the festive events just about every week of the year. The New San Juan, the metropolis of the Caribbean, is constantly growing and moving forward. The capital city offers the amenities and entertainment of a modern and lively city with the added allures of tropical beaches, luxurious beachfront hotels, world-class dining, shopping and a sizzling nightlife. Condado, Ocean Park, nearly Isla Verde, are the most popular tourist destination. Here you can have it all, a bustling city life yet relaxing like a tropical escape ought to be.
Having read the above, we did none of it! Chose to go to the largest distillery in the world - Bacardi!! I have my priorities!!! There were nine of us in a small van, and a thirty-minute ride got us to Bacardi! What fun! We were to not only tour the distillery and learn about the process of making rum, but we would be taught how to make three drinks and, in fact, are now all certified mixologists! Have the certificate to prove it!!
To make certain that we got into the "spirit" of the day, we were each given a ticket for one free drink which we could sip until our tour was ready. Choices were Mojito, Morning Sunrise, Daiquiri, or Rum and Coke. Mojito, of course!!! Gervaise chose the Sunrise, without alcohol - such a pretty drink - red to gold - orange juice and something red! When a devastating hurricane struck several years ago, most of Puerto Rico was destroyed. Old buildings crumbled, but the only buildings hurt at the distillery were those that were already being phased out. The hurricane hit land as a Category 5, and settled into a steady Category 4, as it spent 30 minutes chewing up the island. Even the famous rain forest of El Yunqui, was stripped of all foliage - but being in the tropics, it did quickly restore itself - not so the destroyed structures. The Bacardi company was actually founded in Cuba. When Fidel Castro came to power, the family, who'd established Bacardi, saw that the government was going to take away their business. Instead of waiting for that event, they moved as much as possible to Puerto Rico (especially the recipe!). Even with that move, the family lost about $76 Million. However, once established in Puerto Rico, the family was free to grow the business which has continued to thrive and become an international institution - distributing their lovely rum to all corners around the world, near and far. Bacardi, while famous for their rum, has other associated brands which include the US version of Havana Club, Drambuie Scotch whisky liquor, DiSaronno Amaretto, Eristoff vodka, Casadores Tequila, B&B and Benedictine Liquers. . . . and there's more!
Rum: Bacardi, Navana Club (USA only), Castillo, Banks, PYrat XO Reserve, Oakheart Spice Rum
Vodka: Grey Goose, Eristoff, Ultimat Vodka, Russian Prince, 42 Below
Tequila: Patron, Corzo, Cazadores, Camino Real
Scotch Whisky: Dewar's Aberfeldy, Craigellachi, Royal Brackla, Aultmore, The Deveron, Glenn Deveron, William Lawson's
Bourbon: Angel's Envy (a recent acquisition)
Cognac: Otard, D'usse Cognac, Gaston De LaGrange
Cachaca: Leblon Cachaca
Vernouth: Martini & Rossi, Noilly Prat
Sparkling wine: Martini Prosecco, Martini Asti, Martini rose
Liquer: Benedictine, St-Germain, Get 27, Get 31, Nassau Royale, Martini Spirito, Patron Liquers
So in future, when you see Bacardi, don't only think of rum!
Then it was bartending school! Here's Gervaise learning a new trade! . . . and me, too!!
More photos of Bacardi, the first one showing hurricane damage of old building.
Flags of USA, Puerto Rico and Bacardi
And then to the gift shop, from where I'll be bringing home this treasure!
Saw so many different kinds and colors of rum, from the clear to the almost "black". From what I can remember - it is important not only how long a rum is casked, but in what it is casked. Bacardi uses casks that have previously been home to bourbon whiskey and sherry, perhaps other beverages as well. Pray for safe passage in my suitcase - though I didn't get to taste this one, our guide said that it was his favorite and I think he should know! Unlike the Glenfiddich gift shop in Scotland a few months earlier, this bottle did not cost $500!!! . . . quite a bit less!
Back to the ship and then in search of some Cuban cigars. Thought we couldn't bring them into USA, but were told that if we only bought a couple, we could bring them in - he either wanted to make a quick sale and was incorrect . . . or maybe he was right! We will find out!
Back to the ship for some lunch, a rest, and then met two Aussies for dinner in the main dining room. Very nice people, but when dinner was over both Gervaise and I sighed with relief. Their accents were so difficult to understand - we were exhausted.
We'd seen the pre-dinner show with Assistant Cruise Director, Jessica. She has a beautiful and very powerful voice - a really great talent! Decided to skip the after-dinner magician's show and had an early night.
November 8 - Gustavia, Saint Barthelemy
Saint Barthelemy, official the Territorial Collectivity of Saint-Barthelemy is an overseas collectivity of France in the Caribbean. Often abbreviated to St-Barth in French, and St. Barths or St. Barts in English, the island lies about 35 km southeast of the Dutch-owned Sint Maarten and northeast of the Dutch islands of Saba, Saint Eustatius, and the independent country of Sant Kitts and Nevis.
St. Barts was for many years a French commune forming part of Guadeloupe, which is an overseas region and department of France. In 2003 the island voted in favor of secession from Guadeloupe in order to form a separate overseas collectivity of France. The collectivity is one of four territories among the Leeward Islands in the northeastern Caribbean that comprise the French West Indies, along with Saint Martin, Guadeloupe and Martinique. Saint Barts, a volcanic island fully encircled by shallow reefs, has an area of 25 square km and a population of about 10,000. Its capital is Gustavia, which also contains the main harbor. It is the only Caribbean island that was a Swedish colony for any significant length of time; before the end of the Napoleonic Wars. Guadeloupe came under Swedish rule for nearly a century. Symbolism from, the Swedish national arms, the Three Crowns, still appears in the island's coast of arms. The language, cuisine and culture, however, are distinctly French.
The island is a popular tourist destination during the winter holiday season, geared toward the high-end luxury tourist market. Red roofed buildings speckle the lush tropical landscape in Gustavia, whose historic sites can be reached in one day of trekking around town. Seventeenth Century forts one the harbor, from Fort Karl in the north to Fort Gustaf with its lighthouse and cannons in the south. Near Fort Gustaf is the popular Shell Beach, where beachcombers rove for sparkling shells. The town's many duty free. boutiques call to shoppers while cozy cafes offer views over the harbor.
After a coffee and a pastry in our suite, we decided to tender ashore to window shop all of the high-end stores here. Adolfo and I were here on our last cruise, so I knew that actual shopping probably wasn't something I would do. Gervaise needed her wallet out of the safe but when she'd retrieved it, the safe would not lock. Called housekeeping and she couldn't fix it. She called security, and 20 minutes later, he was in the room trying his hand at repair. Couldn't be done. What he finally did was to bring us another safe, unscrew the one we had, and put the new one into place. From start to finish, it only took about 40 minutes, so we were soon on our way into town.
Things have not changed. Lots of high-end shops abound - Prada, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. The buildings are sweet and old, and the harbor is beautiful. Not nearly the amount of yachts as there were in March of 2015 when the bay was truly loaded with beauties!
Back for lunch and a report from Steve about the water problems at my house - oh yes, they continue. Steve has been out on the slope with pick and shovel uncovering some old pipe that has broken and created not only a massive water bill, but a problem that must be fixed right away. He has turned off the water at the street, and believe he said that he has a plumber coming out tomorrow. Thank God. Steve told me today that there'd been a notice from the Water Department in the mail when he picked that up yesterday. Between the power outage and now the water, the poor kid will need a vacation soon! Just back from a wonderful and casual dinner out on deck at Earth and Ocean. Not too many people dining al fresco tonight, because Colonnade has the International Chef's Market - foods from all over the world - usually pretty good. But, alas, we forgot about it!! Just about to go to the show tonight to see the Seabourn Singers and Dancers perform in a tribute to Stevie Wonder. Should be quite good
November - Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe
Lying 10 km off Guadeloupe, unhurried Terre-de-Haut is the largest of the eight small islands that make up Les Saintes and feels like a slice of southern France transported to the Caribbean. Lots of English is spoken here thanks to a big international sailing scene, and it's definitely the most cosmopolitan of Guadeloupe's outlying islands. Divers love its waters for their good visibility and healthy reefs. Since Terre-de-Haut was too hilly and dry for sugar plantations, slavery never took hold here. Consequently, older islanders can trace their roots to the early seafaring Norman and Breton colonists, and many locals have light skin and blond or red hair. Home to most of the island's residents, Bourg des Saintes is a picturesque village with a decidedly Norman accent. Its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed red-roofed houses with shuttered windows and yards of flowering hibiscus. Prior to beginning today's blog, have to relate a funny story from last evening. Gervaise and I went to the show - Seabourn Singers and Dancers in a tribute to Stevie Wonder. The show was one of the best ever - these kids on board are phenomenal!!! While we were waiting for the show to begin, people began filing into the Grand Salon to find seats that would give them good views - this can be difficult because of posts that are strategically placed to support the ceiling - structurally sound, I guess - but often in one's way when trying to see a show! In front of us were two men and a woman, busily chatting. The gentleman next to the empty seat had his right hand for balance on that empty seat. A woman came in and literally fell into her seat, sat right on his hand - immediately jumped up!!! The man turned red, covered his face with his hands - we all laughed because you couldn't see this without laughing. Couple next to us also started to laugh. Perhaps it doesn't sound too funny in my writing but it was! When all had settled down, the husband of the wife who sat on the male hand came to join her. He also fell into the seat next to her, but landed half on her and half on the empty seat - we all began to laugh once again! The woman next to me uttered - "a match made in heaven"! Of course, that started us off again!
Frangipani
We got up early, ready for our two-hour tour up to Fort Napoleon. Tendered into shore, we were met by one of the best guides I've ever had - Jean - he was articulate, use of language really good, charming and knowledgable. We climbed into vans (two) and drove up the hill, a single-lane, twisty road shared by pedestrians, motor scooters, bicycles and golf carts . . . and . . . the vans. Half way up we parked the van, got out and proceeded to trek up the hill to the Fort. Learned so much today, and it's all a jumble, so if you wish to learn more, please do Google!!! The influences of many cultures coming together in this place make for a rich diversity of languages, culture and food. Primary language is French - then Creole and English - maybe African. We climbed through the cactus gardens, in and out of old stone rooms, up and down stairs. Though a good tour, am certain that we missed some things because we were always looking where we were planting our feet. Christopher Columbus plays a huge part in the "discovery" of this island and seems quite revered in this community.
Really old sewing sewing machines.
"New Fangled" kitchen implements of the day!
On the way down, we once again entered the vans, but stopped just short of the main street that runs along the waterfront, and entered a beautiful old Catholic Church - Parish of Notre Dame de l'Assomption. The stations of the cross are all the beautiful blue and white ceramic of Della Robbia. There is a pretty statue of the Blessed Mother. On each August 15, Feast of the Assumption, the statue is set into a boat, carried up the hill to the cross on the hillside. Prayers are said for all fisherman, both alive and dead. The cross appears to watch over the sea and those who fish now. Am wondering if the cross on the hillside in St. Barth's has a similar meaning?
Salt of the Earth - Light of the World
In several places where we went to lookouts to see the various views, there were chickens wandering around, not at all bothered by the hordes of people coming into their territory.
Weather today was hot and steamy, and now it is pouring rain. The skies have darkened and it looks as though more rain is on the way. Glad we got back prior to the skies opening up! Extraordinary views today from Fort Napoleon!
We are truly tuckered out from our day out in the hot, hot sun and humid weather! Rather than go to a show that we'd looked forward to this week, we are opting for an early night, after a Paella dinner in the Colonnade.
November 10 - Fort-de-France, Martinique
Fort-de-France, city and capital of the French overseas department and region of Martinique, in the West Indies. It lies on the west coast of the island of Martinique, at the northern entrance to the large Fort-d-France Bay, at the mouth of the Madame River. The city occupies a narrow plain between the hills and the sea but is accessible by road from all parts of the island. Formerly called Fort-Royal, it has been Martinique's capital since 1680. Until 1918, when its commercial growth began, Fort-de-France has an inadequate water supply, was partly surrounded by swamps and was notorious for yellow fever. In 1839 it was partially destroyed by an earthquake and in 1890 by fire. The swamps have now been drained, and extensive suburbs have spread, particularly eastward across the Monsieur River toward Le Lamentin. Fort-de-France is Martinique's largest town, chief port and busiest commercial center. It has long sheltered the French fleet in the West Indies. Sugarcane, cacao and rum are exported from here. Savane, a Central Park, has a statue of the comfort of Napoleon I and Empress Josephine, who was born at Trois-ilets on the south side of the bay.
The photo above is not a black and white photo! Skies were very threatening. It had rained through the night and was still sprinkling - we were hopeful that it would soon clear. We were slated to meet our car and driver which we'd booked for four hours. Though there was much to see we felt it best to let the guide do her thing, so our only request was to go to the Catholic Church in the hope of going to Mass.
As we left the ship, the wind howled, the rain came down in buckets, and in our cotton / linen clothing knew we would get soaked. Though they were handing out plastic ponchos at the gangway, they were very flimsy. We watched them get blown about the bodies of people, while the rain found its way under the poncho! A bit of walk to our van, so we were happy to see bicyclists towing a two seater conveyance. Gervaise and I hopped in. Unfortunately, the rain was blowing sideways, coming from the open front of the conveyance. By the time we got to the end of the pier - we, too, were soaked, just like everyone else.
We'd soon met our driver/guide, Sylvia, otherwise known as "Sylvia, the RastaDriver"! Though her English was a bit difficult, her heart was pure gold. We got on famously, and by the end of the trip would be great friends - in fact she cried when we returned to the ship!!
Soaked to the skin, but laughing like maniacs! Did have a pashmina shawl in my tote bag, which I wrapped around me. It absorbed so much water from my clothing I began to smell like a wet dog!!!
Our first stop was Fort-de-France Cathedral - St. Louis. A beautiful church, but Mass wouldn't begin for an hour. So we lit candles, took photos, enjoyed watching the people arriving early for Mass.
Lit a big candle for a good friend who will be visiting neuro oncology at UCSF this coming Wednesday, and a series of smaller ones for friends and family. Then noticed that a lot of men were coming into the church with their suit jackets adorned with all sorts of military medals. In Martinique, Armistice or Veteran's Day is a national holiday. Today's 10:30 Mass will be a celebration in remembrance for all veterans, both living and dead.
An honored veteran and the young woman above is our driver/guide,
Sylvia, the RastaDriver!!
We began our island trek with Sylvia pointing out library, post office, etc. We then turned off onto a red, dirt road - filled with mud from the rains. After about a mile we came upon an artist colony with little shops filled with all sorts of pottery, glassware, sea shells, perfumed soap, and more. After about 45 minutes of wandering and picking up some little things, we continued our journey.
We'd left it up to Syvia as to where she would take us. Her choice was incredible as we spent most of our time at Villages de Memoire et d'Histoire. There is so much history here which includes indigenous tribes, Africans, Chinese, and more. There is almost too much for me to relate, so, although the website is mostly in French, am including it here: www.lasavanedesesclaves.fr
The slave trade in Martinique began a long time before that in the United States, and they were emancipated in 1680 - quite a while before Lincoln came along to emancipate those slaves in our country.
The owner and creator of this property is named "Martinique". His photo, with Sylvia, is below. When he envisioned La Savane, and the different cultures that make up Martinique, he put each piece of history in the hands of those whose descendants had lived it. Each representation of a particular culture is created by one of that culture.
Incredible gardens and flowers galore!!
Today was a very special day and one that we will long remember. After a tearful goodbye, we left Sylvia to return to the ship, have a rest, and a rib dinner in the Colonnade, a la Thomas Keller, followed by Seabourn Singers and Dancers presenting another musical extravaganza, and so to bed ...
November 11 - St. John's, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda
Saint John's is the city and capital of Antigua and Barbuda. It lies on the northwest coast of Antigua and is a resort community and the island's main port, handling sugar, cotton, foodstuffs, machinery, and lumber. The port, in a sheltered harbor, accommodates ships drawing 35 feet and V.C. Bird International Airport is six miles fo the northeast. Attractions include an Anglican cathedral, the Government House, a botanic station and nearby Fort James and Goat Hill. Fort St. John's was severely damaged by earthquakes in 1690 and a long 1843, a fire in 1769, and a hurricane in 1847. St. John's is one of the most developed and cosmopolitan municipalities in the Lesser Antilles. The city is famous for its shopping malls as well as boutiques throughout the city, selling designer jewelry and haute couture clothing. St. John's attracts tourists from the resorts on the island and from the cruise ships which dock in its harbor at Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay several times a week. The investment banking industry has a strong presence in the city. Major work financial institutions have offices in St. John's. There is a market on the southwest edge of the city where fresh produce, meats, and fresh fish are sold daily. The Antigua Rum Distillery is located at the Citadel and is the only rum distillery on the island. Annual production yields more than 180,000 gallons bottled.
Today was not a good day for me. Had looked forward to a ramble around the town, especially because places of interest were right off the ship and we didn't have to take any conveyances to get there! However, have been hit with a bit of vertigo and cannot walk a straight line!!! Gervaise did go off on her own and I was glad that she was comfortable to do that! I rested and stayed put so that falling down was not an option! Here are some photos from Gervaise.
The slave trade history is very prominent here in the Caribbean islands. The dates of abolition of slavery are varied, sometimes varying as much as one hundred fifty years.
Big ships berthed alongside the Sojourn - make us feel very puny, but also very lucky to be on this warm and beautiful smaller ship. One of the ships had a movie screen on the top deck that constantly showed future cruises and where to eat on the ship. So intrusive in the beautiful night - couldn't take a photo because of the glare from the screen which was easily three stories high and four stories wide!! UGH!!
Later in the day, we had a Steel Drum Band come aboard and play for us on the pool deck for two hours. Gervaise refers to them as the "Tin Trio"!!! Stayed outside for about one and half hours, and decided to have room service for our dinner - which was very good. An early night and hopefully I will feel better tomorrow.
We were able to view the 49er/Seattle game live here in our suite. It began, our time, 9:15 p.m. I managed the first half, and went to sleep. Slept through the very exciting second half and overtime, as Gervaise reported to me in the morning. She barely got six hours sleep!
November 12 - Carambola Beach, Saint Kitts and Nevis
Carambola Beach
Saint Kitts and Nevis, also known as the Federation of Saint Christopher and Nevis, is an island country in the West Indies. Located in the Leeward Islands chain of the lesser Antilles, it is the smallest sovereign stat in the Western Hemisphere, in both area and population. The country is a Commonwealth realm, with Elizabeth II as Queen and head of state. The capital city if Basseterre on the larger island of Saint Kitts. The smaller Island of Nevis lies approximately 3 km to the southeast across a shallow channel called The Narrows. The British dependency of Anguilla was historically also a part of this union, which was then known collectively as Saint Christopher-Nevis-Anguilla. However, it chose to secede from the union and remains a British overseas territory. Saint Kitts and Nevis were among the first islands in the Caribbean to be colonized by Europeans. Saint Kitts was home to the first British and French colonies in the Caribbean, and thus has also been titled "The Mother Colony of the West Indies".
Today is a big day, full of activity for us. To begin, we are slated to do an island tour on a double gauge railroad - The Saint Kitts Scenic Railway - with double decker cars, the bottom half of which is air conditioned, and the top half which is open to the very warm weather.
It took us about one hour in a van to get to the station where we would board the train. Our driver, a local by name of "James", was an articulate guide and imparted lots of history. What I remember clearly is that the great, great, great grandfather of Thomas Jefferson lived here and is buried on the island. We did pass the cemetery where he is interred.
The island was once a shore-to-shore sugar cane field - that is when sugar cane was king. Early in the 2000's, that trade was no longer a viable product. Believe it had something to do with the dwindling demand because there was so much sugar coming from sugar beets.
The center of the island is a "dormant" volcano, which when last erupting did lots of damage. There are ruins of a British fort at the top of the mountain - which is beautiful against the backdrop of blue skies and a few clouds. There are white cranes - egrets - everywhere - dozens, dozens and dozens!!!
What not to do when suffering vertigo, is get on a creaky train with lots of motion while moving, and to do it all facing backwards. Though, in all truth, don't think the backwards part made much difference!! What I had difficulty with was focusing on what was outside when it was very close to the train. Ended up just closing my eyes for those portions of the trip.
Train had its own choir - they sang from car to car!!
Back to Carambola Beach, where we could swim, ride the banana boats, etc. We were tired, so opted to partake of the beach BBQ! It was quite something! Can't believe how hard the kids on the crew work, just so we will have a good time. When we anchored this morning, the tenders were at work immediately bringing plates, glasses, coolers, tables cloths and napkins . . . anything that you could imagine one would need to have a first rate lunch on the beach under huge open-sided tents. My photos are not great today - well not most days . . . . but today either it was my vertigo, or the camera also caught the vertigo!!!
The food was bountiful - a wonder that all of it could be transported to shore by the ship's tenders, and then the major portion of the crew there on the beach to set it all out, make it beautiful, and keep it either warm or cold - whatever was needed! There were food tables and dining tables under cover of massive awnings. Food included beautiful fresh baked breads and salads; broiled tomatoes baked potatoes, corn on the cob and fried rice; an assortment of freshly grilled proteins including steaks, lamb chops, chicken and pork chops - together with an assortment of fresh fish. But the best were the HUGE grilled lobsters - and they were truly HUGE! Cannot believe I failed to get a photo!
My understanding is that earlier in the day there'd been caviar and champagne served in the surf - WHAT FUN!
. . . and to finish, a whole bunch of desserts! . . . plus freshly made gelato of several delicious flavors!
After a rest and a major clean-up - we were fortunate to have another reservation in the Thomas Keller Grille, where we had a fabulous meal, and where I didn't take any photos because there are quite enough photos of food on this post!!!
We'd attended an entertaining pre-dinner show starring the cruise director, Emma Abel, so we eschewed the lady comedian after dinner - and had a really good night's sleep!!!
November 13 - Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke, British Virgin Islands
Photo taken from internet - ship is anchored just off shore at White Beach.
Very beautiful!
Named for an early Dutch settler and former pirate, Jost Van Dyke runs deep with rugged scenery and colorful folklore. Explore vegetation covered sugar mill ruins, old trails that crisscross the island and the East End's natural sea-formed Jacuzzi, or observe whales and dolphins. Measuring just four miles by three and with fewer than 300 inhabitants, theBVI's smallest island has been home to Arawak Indians, Caribs, Dutch, Africans and the British. Notable inhabitants have included William Thornton, architect of the U.S. Capitol Building, and Jon Lettsome founder of the London Medical Society. Food and fun abound on Jost Van Dyke, with numerous places to indulge in favored cuisine, such as barbecues, West Indian rotes, flying fish sandwiches, grilled fresh fish and lobster.
Lovely day today. Decided not to go into shore for a short visit, perhaps a swim. Rather, we spent the morning by the ship's pool, getting our shots of Vitamin D and my doing lots of swimming - felt really good to move around in the water!
Very hot today, those who did choose to go in had a hair raising ride in a shuttle, over the hill to a beautiful beach. Apparently not only was the vehicle pretty rickety, but the roads are little better than badly paved paths. Many who got off the tender, turned around and came back because of the heat.
We enjoyed lunch on deck as the chef came out and made tacos on demand. Delicious and very good production line with Hotel Director, Cruise Director and Food Service Director lending a hand. Gervaise had a massage, I had a nap and got ready for the evening. Was to get yet another award, as on this leg of the journey, am the most traveled with Seabourn. Received another Tiffany box - this one quite large and am not certain how I'm going to get it into my suitcase. Also a beautiful bouquet of flowers which were sent to our suite during dinner. On our arrival back in the suite, we had to get rid of the lilies because the sweet odor was nauseating!! They now sit in a pile out on the balcony, while in the vase there are beautiful orchids, ginger and some other exotic flowers - thankfully no super sweet aromas!! Just received this photo via email, from the Cruise Specialist! Who's the little old lady with the big blue bag?!?!?
Added these on Saturday morning just prior to leaving ship.
Our dinner was most enjoyable as we were invited to the Staff Captain's table. The Staff Captain is second in command on the ship. Kyriakos was most charming. Other guests at the table included a couple who grew up, met and married in the Mission District of San Francisco, - and celebrating 57 years on this cruise! Also being born in the Mission, we swapped memories, and Gervaise remembered all of the addresses of her aunts and uncles in that neighborhood!! Tonight's dinner was created by the Chef de Cuisine, Lindsay. Never have I seen a single Seabourn chef so visible on a daily basis, and one who is so approachable. Always smiling, always trying to accommodate. Lovely man, talented chef - Lindsay! Hope he is once again on the ship when I rejoin this ship at the end of April 2020! I have no photos for this day - well, I do, but they are on my phone, and can only transfer over when we are in port - know there's another way, but some things just elude me!! Dessert was called “Sesame Bun”. When it arrived it looked like a mini hamburger, with French fries and all the trimmings.
Here the description of this dessert:
Sesame Bun
milk chocolate mousse pate (hamburger),
pistachio and almond nougatine churros (French fries)
Apricot and passion fruit jelly (cheese)
Strawberry coulee (catsup)
PS: I did open the Tiffany box and found two gorgeous champagne flutes - not certain how I'm going to get these home without breaking!! Keep your fingers crossed.
November 14 and 15 - At Sea
Yesterday and today are filled with more eating, sleeping and drinking - such a tough life!!
Time to take out the suitcases and begin to get packing - UGH! Last evening the Seabourn Singers and Dancers performed a tribute to Tim Rice, great lyricist who has worked with Andrew Webber, Elton John (Lion King) and others. Songs from Lion King, Evita,
Also lots of trivia the last three days - today, Friday, is the last. Our team has not done too well, but we are ever hopeful to make a spectacular recovery!
Don't know if Gervaise will make it to Team Trivia today. She is suffering a bit of mal de mer - and not doing well. Believe she is currently in the infirmary getting something to alleviate her discomfort. Do hope it works!! This morning attended a cooking class with Chef Lindsay. He showed us how to make Lobster and Saffron Risotto. He made it in the classic way until the end when he shoved in a pound of butter - UGH - he said to achieve the desired creaminess! Doesn't he know that the Arborio rice gets creamy on its own when cooked properly? Am bringing home the recipe, but will not include so much butter - definitely not necessary!!
November 16 - Miami, Florida
Woke to wall-to-wall ships - just like a parking lot on the water!! Overcast skies match our dreary hearts as we make our preparation for departure this morning.
Having breakfast - our last meal!!!
Flights scheduled today - Miami to Dulles, and Dulles to SFO. Should be home by 10:00 tonight.
Will close this blog for now, unless there is a very funny story in our travels home.
Meanwhile, thank you for traveling with us!!!
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