The "fun" of travel in these days has begun prior to my departure tomorrow morning. Have been dealing with Luggage Free who picked up a bag to be delivered to the hotel in Istanbul - it would be waiting for me when I arrive on Friday morning.
However . . . Turkish customs will not release the luggage to be delivered to the hotel until they see a stamp on my passport that I have entered the country. Once they have the stamp in hand they will determine getting it to the hotel within 24 to 48 hours. Well, that's won't do, because if it's late - the luggage will miss the ship. So, we've worked out a way that I can self-claim the luggage at customs once I deplane in Istanbul, and then take it with me to the hotel. Fun! Just what you want to do after a really long flight! The same for my friend, Jane, who is meeting me in Istanbul and also had her luggage sent. Am fortunate that my travel agent is traveling with me and I'll have company for the claiming of the bags. Jane will be ahead of us coming from South Carolina. Hope all goes well for her!! More tomorrow, or the next day!
September 29 - Flight to Istanbul, Turkey
Up early - last minute chores in house. Driver will be here at 9:30.
Flying Turkish Airlines today – a first for me. Really big plane a B787-9!! First time in business class that I’ve seen a chef in full regalia on board!
The food is awesome, tasty and served nice and hot. A rolling cart with all sorts of choices comes to you. To accompany my broiled salmon, I tried a Sauvignon Blanc from Turkey. Very Good! Then had a Bordeaux from France. Good, but the Sauvignon Blanc was better!
This is a very long flight – 12 hours. As I write this we are approximately four and a half hours from our destination – Istanbul. Have slept about three hours, and the rest of the time have tidied up my laptop, filing, deleting, etc. Don’t know how I’ll find anything now that it’s all in the right place!
Right after the dinner service was completed, one of the attendants came to me and asked if I would like her to make up my bed. HUH? I declined, but she did actually have sheets and a blanket and did make up the beds for some of the passengers. It’s amazing to me how many people on this plane are not sleeping, but watching movies and playing games on their personal TV’s. After about 5 hours of quiet in the cabin, attendants are busily preparing the next meal – breakfast.
Through the quiet five hours I’ve watched the flight map as we flew over Greenland and Iceland where I visited just one month ago. I did try to get on to the free wi-fi in business class, though was unsuccessful. Am not techie savvy enough!
Friday, September 30 - Istanbul, Turkey
We landed in Istanbul at 11:30 a.m., to find that Jane had landed one hour earlier, had already been to the address given to us by Luggage Free where we could claim our luggage. Luggage not there!!! Jane would meet us as we came out of customs at the airport. After a crazy discussion with our driver about going back to DHL to pick up our luggage, there seemed to be a time constraint with our driver. Jane’s driver had already dropped her off back at the airport because he had no more time and had another pickup. It was decided that Jane and I would get a taxi, go back to DHL and present a united front to get our luggage. Eric (our travel agent) reluctantly agreed to go to the hotel, take my one checked luggage with him and we’d all meet at the hotel later.
Jane and I waited in a long taxi line and finally got a taxi. With the written address in hand, we managed to convey to the driver that we needed to go to the address provided to us by Luggage Free. Driver, Nyat, didn’t speak any English! Off we went. I had no better luck than had Jane an hour earlier. Luggage not there, and even if it were, we had to see the customs people so they could make certain we were indeed taking used clothing on our vacation – if new, there would be some “taxes”! Outrageous – who doesn’t buy something new for a vacation! Young man at DHL had some English skills, and managed to get on the phone to his supervisor, with whom I spoke, in English and got more explanation that luggage was not there, and to get it, we’d have to fill out additional paper work, visit customs, and as it turned out, various and sundry other very important people who had a say in how we were to get our luggage.
I will shorten this saga, because to write it all down, would have had to keep running tab on how many stops we ended up making, in how many buildings, in how many offices which included some Customs officials and the Ministry of Trade!!!
In total, there were three huge buildings – each ranging from three to five city blocks in size. All three building were within a quarter to half mile apart and required a car to get to them. We visited each building, many times, back and forth. Our driver was a saint! He took hold of our papers, kept them straight as other papers were added to each packet. In each building there were many offices, many different people, who all had to write something on our papers, loudly stamp over their signatures, etc. Remarkably, we were not asked for money with each stamp!
Our driver, Nyat, never faltered. At several points, he would call his daughter, Layla, who spoke English. She became our new best friend as she listened to her Papa and then conveyed to us in English over his telephone what was happening. This whole procedure took almost six hours. (SIX HOURS!!!). No one spoke English, so we were at the mercy of Nyat, who never left us – what an extremely nice man! . . . and in this masculine dominated culture, no one really wanted to speak with two women. All direction was to Nyat.
At one point someone did speak a little English and told us even after we completed all of the additional paper work, it would be four to five days before we would see our luggage. We explained that we would be on a ship by that time, and we had no clothing with us! They’d better shorten the time and get us our luggage TODAY!
At the second stop, I gave Nyat $100 and asked that he wait for us as we went through the process. Perhaps that helped him decide not to leave us – don’t know. Would like to think that he was just a special human being.
At 5:30 p.m., we were finally pointed to a large warehouse where fork lifts were busily and dangerously conveying large pallets that had shipped from all over the world. We finally spotted our names on a screen that told us our luggage would appear shortly, and indeed it did, much to our surprise and delight.
Remember that I’d just completed a twelve hour flight, with little or no sleep, and yet managed to stay upright during the next six hours, as did Jane. We were finally on our way with all of our luggage, during peak hour traffic, in to Istanbul and the hotel. It took another hour and a half and we finally and thankfully arrived at 7:30 p.m.
During the afternoon, Nyat, never had a meter running so I knew it would be expensive, but felt that he’d be fair. I asked him how much we owed him, and he quietly and humbly said “$300”. In my hand I held $400 and gave it all to him, with gratitude and tired smiles, we climbed the stairs into the hotel.
While we were on our afternoon long quest for luggage, Eric had called Luggage Free to let them know of our plight. They responded to me via email that we were just to go to the original address that they’d send us at the first stop. THAT DIDN’T WORK!!! And their email to us with those repeated directions was no help at all.
I have over the years used Luggage Free to send my luggage ahead of me onto ships, and then they pick up the luggage at the end of the cruise and send home. Have never had a problem. The moral of this story (Luggage Free, hope you are paying attention!). . . NEVER SEND LUGGAGE TO TURKEY!!!
We checked in to our rooms at the Ajwa Sultanhamet Hotel. We’d texted Eric and asked if we could purchase wine nearby because the hotel, being owned by Arabs does not serve any liquor. Eric answered back that he’d have a bottle of wine and some Raki for us when we arrived. He was waiting for us in the lobby, and after a chat about the day’s adventures, he passed over a bag that had the desired items. I took the Raki and Jane took the wine and we trundled off to bed. We were both exhausted and dehydrated.
Raki is a liquor that you serve In water. It has an anise flavor, is clear, but once you add water is looks like milk - similar to the Greek ouzo. I love anise. So once in my room I began drinking water with the Raki. Finished off three bottles of water . . . and the Raki. Showered and fell into bed. It was the most comfortable bed I’d ever slept in – could have been a bed of nails – I wouldn’t have cared.
The beverage was accompanied by figs, dates and Turkish delight that greeted me in the room, along with some grapes. Hadn’t eaten since breakfast on the plane, but was too tired to order room service. Sleep was most important!
Saturday, October 1, 2022 - Istanbul
After a good night's sleep, Eric's culinary and cultural group gathered in the hotel lobby. Nice group of people, all eager to see what Eric has in store for us. This morning a van awaited us for a short ride down to the harbor where a private yacht awaited us. It was to be a cruise on the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus, seeing the beautiful old palaces, historical Roman ruins being carefully restored, and stately homes along the shores, viewing the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace from the water, while enjoying a Turkish breakfast.
Lots of beautiful food was spread out for our palates. There was something for everyone. My favorite is the clotted cream sitting in a pond of delicate honey which one spoons on to bread (sesame seed bread was my favorite). Then of course, the requisite salad plates which always include tomato, cucumber and peppers; feta cheese and one other cheese; a mixture of soupy scrambled eggs cooked with fresh tomato and some herbs; different cold meats; olives; yogurt which one could mix with a cherry compote and sprinkle with muesli. Plenty of hot black tea to help wash it all down, as we sailed along viewing both the Europe and Asia sides of the city of Istanbul.
Three bridges connect the one city in two continents, and there is also ferry traffic on the water, along with tons of commercial shipping and of course, cruise ships.
At the narrowest part of the waterway, there is Istanbul, Continent of Europe (on the left) and Istanbul, Continent of Asia (on the right), only connected by the bridge.
Once off the yacht, we all agreed to walk up to the Hagia Sophia, rather than take the van. Traffic in this city is horrendous, many streets in the old city are so narrow and tiny. This creates bottle neck after bottle neck. What took us about 10 to 15 minutes to walk up the hill would have taken 45 minutes by van. Hagia Sophia is beautiful, began as a Christian church, then became a Mosque, then a museum. In recent years Erdogan has decided to return it to its Mosque status.
When first here with Adolfo many years ago, one was able to just enter the building after being checked for appropriate dress - particularly women who must have hair, shoulders and knees covered. There were no crowds, no lines. However, today, it is Saturday, everyone is out and about and to add to the many people who might ordinarily be here on a weekend, there are two huge cruise ships in the harbor which adds thousands more who want to enter the Mosque. And, because of the Mosque designation of both of these buildings, visits now have to be arranged around the prayer and worship times.
When we arrived at the area, we were astounded to see the entry lines going on forever. No doubt had we decided to remain in line, we would have stood for well over an hour before being able to enter the mosque . . . all the while in the hot baking sun! So we changed plans, and were guided through the large area which connects Sofia to the Blue Mosque. Also, the Blue Mosque could not be entered because it is under heavy renovation inside. But, the beauty of these two building can be well appreciated from the outside. We can always Google the interiors when we get back to the hotel!!!
There are two obelisks that stand between the way from Hagia Sophia to the Blue Mosque. The one with clear hieroglyphics is dated at 15 C. BC. The more rustic obelisk is dated 10 C. AD. The latter obelisk once was covered with ornately designed bronze, but in one of the wars, the bronze was stripped off, and it now resides in a museum in Venice, Italy.
Additionally, there was what was once a fountain, the base of which is three intertwined snakes. This piece was crafted from spoilage after a war with Iran (or perhaps then, Persia).
Think water was to come out of the mouths of the snakes, but overtime, the snakes heads were broken off. Believe we were told that there is one snake head that resides in a local museum.
This next beautiful little building was donated by Germany - don't remember the reason, but it is lovely.
Then it was on to the local cistern that once supplied water to the city of Istanbul. This was a highlight of the morning for me. Really loved going down into the cistern. Besides seeing the art and imagining this area full of water at one time, it was blessedly cool, until the heat of hundreds of bodies began to warm it up!!! The columns are beautiful, with ever-changing light colors. Interspersed with the columns is scupture often reflected in the standing water. I would have spent much more time here, but alas, it was not to be!
The Group
It was time for refreshment, so we went to a roof-top restaurant where we could enjoy lemonade, or something else, view the area from above and rest a bit. Almost fully rested, we were off for our Turkish lunch, just around the corner and up the street.
Eric had arranged a Turkish tasting lunch, with paired Turkish wines - wonderful!!!
Hummus; finely chopped tomatoes with peppers and herbs; a mixture of three cheeses and herbs with chopped hazelnuts added; pickled red cabbage; a cooked tomato mixture that included a layer of cheese underneath; moistened lavash bread on which to put the goodies - delicious! . . . and that was just the beginning!
What followed was an assortment of meats, sautéed lamb and beef liver, ground lamb fixed in several different ways, some with pistachio nuts, . . . and I was so busy eating that I forgot to take photos to jog my memory - sorry!
Almost forgot one of my favorites which I will call Turkish pizza. Beautiful dough and filled with savories and cheese, and another one with a pumpkin mixture which flavor was not discernible to me - but delicious nevertheless.
But I got a photo of the desserts - a rice pudding with a fruity topping; something pumpkin that included candied pumpkin rind, and of course, the requisite baklava.
A little taste of this and a little taste of that - a sip of this wine and a sip of that wine - well, maybe more than a sip (six wines in total!). I gave up trying to remember what wines we were drinking, and didn't take photos because the labels were all in Turkish and totally not understandable to me. The identifying grapes all had Turkish names, unpronounceable and I'd never heard of them. But I must say that all wines were enjoyable and perfectly paired with the food.
After lunch the group broke up into three parts (1) back to the hotel for a rest (I was in that group); (2) to the Hamam (Turkish baths) where you could get scrubbed to a fare-thee-well; and (3) those who wanted to do the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar, which I've done twice before was my first choice, but my body wasn't agreeing. Still had to catch up from yesterday, and then there were the Whirling Dervishes tonight. According to the app on my phone, I'd already walked almost three miles and there was more later.
After a shower and a rest, we met again at 6:00 p.m. in the hotel lobby for a shuttle ride to the Whirling Dervishes. I'd seen them on other trips, but they were for entertainment only. Lots of energetic music, lots of clapping and men who could spin on their feet like no one's business!!! I didn't know this had a religious connotation and was to be a Sema religious ceremony.
Whirling Dervishes is not a theatrical performance as one might expect; in fact, it is a religious ceremony that involves chanting and dancing. This unique element of Turkish culture and UNESCO-recognized cultural heritage dates back to the 13th century and is largely associated with contemporary mystic poet and Sufi master Jelaleddin Rumi. He invented such a form of prayer in an attempt to establish a closer relationship with God. Spinning prayers pave their way to the divine and pass on newly established spiritual treasures to spectators.
We were not allowed to take photographs, so have gotten one online. I did take one photo of the chanters and musicians prior to being told it was not allowed.
An interesting experience. Don't know how the dervishes manage to keep their balance with the constant swirling, not fast, but constant, and very graceful. One leg always straight while the other kicks off and pivots the body. Both arms are raised with the right hand fingers raised to heaven while the fingers of the left hand point downward to earth. Not only the whirling, but the fact that the dervishes can keep their arms up for such a long while.
Sunday, October 2, 2022 - Boarding Windstar Star Legend
After a lovely breakfast in the roof-top restaurant of the hotel, with Eric and Jane, we went back to our rooms to repack luggage, and get ready to board the ship for our cruise.
Four of us - Jane, Iva, Jacky and I had arranged a van to take us and our luggage down to the pier. We arrived shortly after 12:30 p.m., waited a bit, and were in our suites within the hour. So easy . . . so nice to be back aboard a ship! As we checked in we made reservations for dinner that evening at Candles, and for the following evening at Cuadro 44.
Then of course, the ritual ship's emergency drill at our muster stations, back to the suites to get ready for dinner - meeting at the Compass Rose for drinks and on to dinner at Candles where we enjoyed good food and a spectacular bottle of Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.
Monday, October 3, 2022 - Canakkale, Turkey
An easy day today. Jane, Iva and I decided to take the shuttle into the town of Canakkale and walk around. First we enjoyed a light lunch at the grill.
The bus ride took about 30 minutes, and as we drove through the town we all decided that there was nothing much to see, so we stayed on the bus and went back to the ship!!!! That was an easy tour!!!
Dinner that evening at Cuadro 44 was stupendous! We ordered one of each starter so that all could have one taste, and each ordered our own main dish. The grilled octopus is still my favorite! For my entree I had the angel hair pasta with a chicken confit, mussels and something else that currently eludes me. It was wonderful, and in fact, better than when cooked on the Star Breeze last January. A real winner and one that I will repeat should we dine there again. Dinner was accompanied by a wonderful Amarone.
Tuesday, October 4, 2022 - Mykonos, Greece
Just here last year in August with Sandi and John. Weather is much cooler, and the expected wind is still present. Lots of white caps on the water this morning. We are at anchor off shore. In 30 minutes will meet Jane and Iva and we will tender ashore to do a little trek in the wonderful little town. So pretty. Perhaps we'll poke around in the shops.
Too windy to stay out long, and way too many people from a large cruise ship that is also in port, together with a smaller Ponant ship. So came back to the ship and had a good nap prior to getting ready for dinner with the girls. We have now renamed Iva to Jiva so we have four J's - Jacky, Jane, Jeanne and Jiva!
The famous windmills of Mykonos, now often turned into homes for the wealthy.
Dinner tonight in Amphora, the main restaurant on the ship. Unremarkable dinner. So far Candles and Cuadro 44 are exceptional. Tuna was on the menu and both Iva and Jane said it was "so-so". I had a salted beet root risotto which was just okay, but was a beautiful color! Started with an ordinary French onion soup.
After dinner we decided to go back to the lounge for an after dinner drink and ended up playing Name That Tune. Eric joined us. Eric and Jacky were whizzes in both naming the tunes and knowing the artist. We won, and I have in my suite a lovely bottle of French wine that was the prize!
Wednesday, October 5, 2022 - Kusadasi, Turkey.
Our small ship, the Windstar Star Legend, seems such a baby photographed against the behemoth behind it!
.This will be a fun day. We begin in one hour going shopping with the Executive Chef, Joseph A. Kalynuik. Will report back more later. Then it's back to the ship for lunch and perhaps a short jaunt out to the local bazaar, and a rest before we get ready for the entire ship's guest list going by bus out to Ephesus where we will have a dinner in front of the iconic library facade. Adolfo and I attended a champagne and canapé candlelight evening there many years ago and enjoyed that experience, while a local string quartet played throughout the evening. Look forward to this experience once again.
Shopping with the chef was interesting - full of stores with Turkish delight (delicious candies), saffron (both Iranian which is really expensive, and Turkish which is much less), frozen pastas, dry aged beef, local cheeses, beautiful fresh caught fish, blue crabs (still live), and produce. Along with the chef came three others from the ship's galley. Perishables were immediately hiked back to the ship by one of the three. When we were finished, about an hour and a half into the jaunt, Jane and I went back to the ship for refreshment and lunch and an afternoon of rest.
At 6:00 p.mm. we all gathered on to buses that took us out to Ephesus. My initial excitement was dampened as I realized that we would not be dining at the foot of the library facade, but instead at the arena. While it is also old and beautiful, it does not compare with the first location. I don't understand why Windstar has a photo advertising the event at the library. Big letdown!
Once again, am purloining (with permission!) a few photos throughout this blog from Goldring Travel - Thank you, Eric! You take great photos!!
First two courses were very good, but entree was mediocre at best - catered by a local hotel. Music by a string quartet was lovely, weather a bit chilly but not too bad. Eventually back to the ship via buses and right to bed for me - can't seem to shake my fatigue these last two days.
Upon further investigation, I've learned that in order to have the dinner at the foot of the library facade, the group must not exceed 150 people. Our group was well over 200 people.
Here's a photo from 2005 - in front of the Library facade. You can see that the area here is much smaller.
Thursday, October 6, 2022 - Bodrum, Turkey
Jane and I chose a day at the beach today. There was a small group, about 12, who chose to spend the day at a Kempinski Hotel that has a private beach. The tour included a lovely lunch, but the best was to be able to have a day swimming in the Aegean - and I took full advantage of that! Thought that six hours was a bit long, but still a very nice and relaxing day. The Aegean water is very cold!!!
Beautiful beach - and the starter plate at lunch featuring all kinds of tasty treats!
In the evening, the chef created a crab boil for Eric's group, with the blue crabs purchased yesterday in Kusadasi. Really delicious, along with boiled potatoes and fresh corn. We all dug in with our hands, breaking apart the small crabs and searching out the sweet meat. Although I've always preferred Dungeness, these were quite wonderful!
Friday, October 7, 2022 - Santorini (Thera), Greece
Leaving the ship shortly for a ride up the finicula into the cliffside city where we will board a van and begin our wine tasting tour. On the schedule today are five wineries and a Greek lunch with wine pairings. More Later . . .
What a day!!! We left the ship at 9:00 am. and returned to the ship at almost 7:00 p.m. Visited five Greek wineries, tasted over 22 wines, ate an assortment of mezzes (small tastes) and finished at the fifth winery with lunch - which we ate at 4:00 p.m.!!
The scrubby vines of Santorini - they look so sad . . .
I can remember the first time I did a Greek wine tasting in the Santorini area almost 25 years ago. The focus then was on the retsina wines - not to my liking then. Not one retsina wine was tasted today, and because the variety of grapes are for me unpronounceable Greek words (spelling included!) cannot tell you any wines that were made from grapes with which I am familiar. We drank few reds, mostly whites, very young, quite acidic for my palate. There was one wine at the Santo Winery that I liked a lot, and failed to by it because it was only the second winery. In hindsight, I should have purchased a couple of bottles to drink on board the ship.
At the Santo Winery, we tasted at a large table where the group sat on a huge terrace overlooking the caldera and our ship far below us. It was the most beautiful tasting spot - except for the whipping wind!!!
Every winery had a sweet wine, or two, like Vin Santo, that were delicious. In fact the medallions of pork that I ate at lunch were cooked with a sauce of Vin Santo - very good, albeit the meat was a bit dry. It was served on what Greeks call fava bean puree. However, the color of the puree was yellow - not certain if this is the fava bean that we know in the United States, or in Italy but it was good!
These tomato fritters were a highlight of the day for me. Will try to find the recipe once I get home.
The dessert, also memorable, consisted of a beautiful, lush custard over which were scattered / piled odd sized strips of deep fried filo dough sprinkled lightly with cinnamon and sugar, and that was topped with a delicious vanilla bean ice cream. . . and accompanied with another Vin Santo.
By the time we got back to the ship several of us were exhausted, including me! The highlight of the day on the ship was to be a deck BBQ on Decks 7 and 8 this evening. My bed seemed much more attractive, so I bid a goodnight to all, came to my suite and was asleep within the hour.
A memorable day!!! . . . if my wine-soaked brain can recall it!
Saturday, October 8, 2022 - Monemvasia, Greece
Two days ago we got notification that the sail through the Corinth Canal was cancelled due to further repair work on the canal, and another rock slide. Am very disappointed, but must go with the flow! Instead we have Monemvasia and then Nafplion tomorrow.
Hoped to get ashore this morning for a quick walking tour of this quaint town. Last year when we were here, I chose to stay on board, but John and Sandi did a walk and took some wonderful photos. Believe it is worth the effort. However, after yesterday's tour de force, don't know if I'll have the energy! I didn't have the energy - woke late in the morning and stayed aboard ship.
At 2:30 this afternoon, is the first of our cooking demonstrations, and I believe some participation from our group.
The "participation" turned out to be the eating of the food the chef prepared. The mante we bought in Kusadasi, along with the calamari and porterhouse steaks.
Mante (a tiny stuffed pasta) was boiled, drained and served with a spicy tomato sauce and topped with a sour cream heavily flavored with garlic - lots of garlic! Chef Joseph then showed us how to stuff the calamari with a mousseline, crab meat and shrimp, secured at the open end with a toothpick and dropped into a broth to cook (Court Boullion that contained a fine Sapphire gin!). That was served with a beurre blanc that included saffron and capers. This was very good but oh so complicated to put together. Think you need two people! We finished with lightly grilled, dry aged porterhouse steaks, garnished with a chimichurri sauce. Meat from the two steaks was shared by the whole group. All of this with some delightful wines, my favorite being a French La Perriere Sauvignon Blanc - really delicious . . . and after yesterday it had to be really good to tempt me to have any! Am bringing home recipes just in case anyone is interested!!!
After the food, dinner was out of the question for me, but I did have a lemon drop cocktail, enjoyed some music in the Compass Rose, ate some fresh fruit in my suite and had another early night.
Sunday, October 9, 2022 - Nafplion, Greece
I will have another easy day today. We also stopped in Nafplion last year and John climbed the extremely steep steps up to the fortress. Weather continues to be mild, even cool. At least today, there doesn't seem to be any wind! This is a beautiful anchorage, very picturesque with the fortress high on the mountain and castle ruins which can be viewed from the ship.
Monday, October 10, 2022 - Piraeus (Athens), Greece
Tomorrow is Jane's birthday, so we are celebrating today with a car tour of Athens and lunch at the Grand Bretagne Hotel in Athens. It has a wonderful roof restaurant overlooking the Parthenon and Acropolis. The hotel is right next door to the King George where we stayed last year.
Jane, Iva and I left the ship at 11:00, and had about an hour tour of Piraeus, around the many inlets on the sea, and then into the city of Athens where we saw the arena that held the first modern olympics in 1896, the President's palace, a drive through the Plaka, and then an attempt to take the finnicula up to Mount St. George Lycabettus. However, traffic was really horrible, and we were afraid that we wouldn't make our lunch reservations, so we instead arrived at the hotel early, were directed to the "secret garden" in the center of the hotel, and enjoyed a cocktail prior to lunch.
It was time for me to renew my acquaintance of my favorite Tears of Chios - made with vodka, lime, and Mastic (a Greek liquor). I was so anxious to taste it that I forgot to take a photo before it was half gone - so good!
We all ordered fresh fish in the restaurant and all really liked our lunches, while we gazed out to the famous ruins. Although Iva and I had been to Athens several times, this was Jane's first experience.
After lunch we went back to the ship where we all found a second flower arrangement had been added to our suites. Then before the day was over, a third large bouquet also came - am living in the middle of a florist!
Tuesday, October 11, 2022 - Mykonos, Greece
Today, we are back in windy Mykonos! Am staying aboard ship and catching up on this blog. Have miraculously managed to get almost all photos loaded - guess the stars are finally in alignment!
Tonight we are hoping to have a Cuadro dinner delivered to my suite so the girls can all enjoy a very relaxed evening. The restaurant is just around the corner from my suite, so am hoping this will be doable.
At lunch today I, by chance, sat next to a couple from Marin County. They live in Corte Madera - how's that for a meeting in Greece? Her name is Beryn and she teaches a free ZOOM class once a week on "All About Apple". Naturally, the conversation led to the poor wifi on the ship, to which she introduced me to a gadget that she carries that connects directly to satellite - for a fee, of course. Gonna get me one of those!
Then, she showed me a trick to get my photos into the blog - OMG - easy peasy! Shouldn't have any trouble from here on in . . . and I can't wait to sign up for her ZOOM classes when I get home. There's so much more I need to know about my laptop!
Meanwhile, I've been visited by the restaurant manager and the bar manager, and we're on for cocktails and dinner in my suite at 6:00 p.m. Luckily, Cuadro is just around the corner, so they'll be arriving early to set up the dining table, someone will come to order our cocktails, and we'll be served dinner around 7:30 p.m. Photos will certainly follow!
Jane not feeling well, so after a few sips of her chardonnay she retired and we celebrated without the birthday girl - UGH! Hope she is better tomorrow.
Jacky, Iva ("Jiva") and Eric
Lovely jambon ham from Spain - one of the starters in Cuadro 44
Jane's Birthday Cake - and in Jane's absence, Eric blew out the candles! We did send a piece of the cake to her suite!
Wonderful service in-suite. It was a good evening, one where we could converse without the ambient noise that is proving difficult for me with my hearing aids - or the loud live music that is often playing. Good music, but not when we're trying to have a conversation!
Wednesday, October 12, 2022 - Heraklion, Greece
Stayed aboard ship today, and it's a good thing, because the skies opened up and it POURED for quite a long time. Many guests came back to the ship soaked.
Jane feeling better today. After Covid testing for two days (all negative), it would appear that Jane has a cold. We were all relieved, so we enjoyed dinner at Candles. I again ordered the veal chop - so delicious, cooked to perfection. Felt justified as I'd only eaten a salad for lunch, and a very small rice pudding!!
Then we all gathered in the Compass Rose where we enjoyed another round of Name That Tune. We fell short this time, but it was fun!
Thursday, October 13, 2022 - Rhodes, Greece
This is one of my favorite stops in Greece. Always get off ship and roam through the shops. Have years earlier visited all of the historic venues - some twice. This morning there's a shopping jaunt scheduled in one hour with Jane and Iva. Tonight is the ship's deck BBQ. More later . . .
Although Rhodes continues to be one of my favorite stops, it is impossible when there are huge cruise ships in port, and today there's a huge, and I mean HUGE ship, which means there are tons of people meandering around the little streets of Rhodes.
We're the small ship on the left. The one on the right is only about one-half in the photo!
Last year on my month long cruise in Greece, we had three stops at Rhodes. Every time we came here there was an old man sitting in the same spot, fishing. Can you believe he is still here this year. This time I took a photo!
Even with the prospect of crowds, we did head into the town for a while. I found my favorite store, Haris Cotton. They have the best cotton and linens. Bought two pair of trousers and two colorful over-size shirts. Will probably wear one to the BBQ tonight.
The three of us are now seated in the grill overlooking the old ramparts of the town - so picturesque. Thankfully the behemoth ship is behind us.
Every noon, the food at the grill varies. There are always two smoked and/or grilled meats and/or fish. Today choices are rack of lamb and chicken. Tons of salads are arrayed for your appetite, together with sides, fresh fruits, and desserts.
Dinner tonight was a repeat of the on deck BBQ last week, which they served in two locations because of the wind on deck 8. We chose the Veranda, inside and out of the wind - enjoyed the seafood paella, tons of sides, a roasted suckling pig, and the largest apple pie I've ever seen. All enjoyed with an Australian Shiraz.
Friday, October 14, 2022 - A Day at Sea
In the morning, I attended a lecture on Israel – its history and promise. Most interesting.
Although I took lots of notes, why spoil this food and wine blog with history!!!
Following the lecture, Chef Joseph gave a cooking demonstration making a flan – pretty straight forward, but showed us some tricks using saran wrap. . . and a garlic soup that has Spanish and Ukrainian roots in his family. Have the recipe and I will make this soup when I return home. It seems perfect for a winter meal. Anyone know where I can get a prosciutto bone to make the stock?!?!?
The middle version of the soup has a soft poached egg on top, so that when the yolk is broken, it creams the soup and adds more flavor.
Plans for a party in my suite at 4:30. Eric has gathered wine from our trip for us to revisit today. Chef Joseph planned some wonderful bites:
· Two different sushi creations.
· Wonderful cherry tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of ricotta and cream cheese with herbs, and topped with some shaved hard-boiled egg yolk, a few minced red onion bits, a miniscule sprig of dill and a tiny bit of caviar – delicious.
· Deep fried fish balls topped with a spicy salsa.
· For dessert, there were baklava and some macaroons decorated with a tiny bit of chocolate.
Almost everyone from our Culinary / Cultural group came to the suite. Even with all of the food and wine, we felt like we had to have dinner, so the girls and Eric headed to Cuadro 44 for a light bite, and then an early night.
Jacky, Jane, Jiva and Jeanne
I hope to sleep much better tonight, after a very restless previous night.
Saturday, October 15, 2022 - Limassol, Cyprus
I should have begun packing today, but instead had a manicure and pedicure – will go home with happy feet and hands. However, I MUST pack tomorrow, and will, I promise!!
Also meant to get in another lecture by the guest speaker aboard. Today was to be the Arab/ Muslim history in Israel. Instead I fell asleep!
Tonight the girls are having a dinner out on deck up at the grill. The weather is getting progressively warmer and this seems the right time to take advantage of dinner al fresco.
Went up early to Deck 8 to watch the ever changing sunset - different and really beautiful - quite golden!
Wanted to attend Liars' Club tonight, but didn't make it that long!
Sunday, October 16, 2022 - Ashdod, Israel
Next to last full day of the cruise today and this afternoon, the penultimate group experience for this trip.
But before that, all guests and crew had to get off the ship early this morning, claim their passports and present to Israeli immigration. We were checked and double-checked, issued temporary visas, and then allowed to re-enter the ship. Many today are going on tours, but the ship leaves at 3:00 p.m. so it seemed to me that the day would be too full - especially with the planned gourmet lunch and wine pairings planned by Chef Joseph just for our group at 2:30 - and I've already taken a full day tour from Ashdod years ago with Adolfo. No dinner tonight after the planned lunch, or because it is at 2:30 - "linner"!!. Will report later. Now I have to at least pack one suitcase!!!
I believe this is the first time since Eric has been doing these C/C cruises (since 2007) that he has not had a hand in menu planning and the wine. Chef Joseph is surprising all of us! . . . and what a meal it was!
A little something to decorate the bread!
This dessert was my favorite of the whole trip, and there were many wonderful desserts. The crystal looking stuff on top is really honey comb - so delicious with the lavender cream - don't think I could ever duplicate this dessert. Thank you, Chef Joseph!!! A wonderful, tasty, unique and memorable meal!!
Monday, October 17, 2022 - Haifa, Israel
Lots of new and very modern buildings in Israel compared to my last visit some years ago.
Today was to be chocked full of information and a day long tour. We left the ship at 7:30 and piled into a van with our driver and a guide, Adi. This was to be a day of geo-political information and viewing of some key places in Israel.
After a couple of hours in the van, touring the Israel countryside, and learning so many stories and facts about not only the ancient, but the modern Israel, we arrived at a protected habitat.
We walked about a mile, with the guide pointing out ancient walls and ruins, and in one place a reference to what is known as Moses' Gate, where the people for which he parted the Red Sea entered what is now Israel. Moses himself did not make the entrance, because he died before they'd reached the gate.
Though the walk was mainly on paved paths, further on, we were challenged to walk over very rounded, large rocks - difficult for me to keep my balance, but with the occasional assist from a gentlemanly arm, our destination was reached . . . only to find that in order to get to an important viewing bluff, one had to climb stairs. Climbing up was not a problem, but coming down without any hand rails presented a possible disaster. Both Iva and I stayed at the bottom of the stairs while others were able to see a huge valley spread before them . . . . and there was Syria and Lebanon. Right below the viewing point there is an Israeli army outpost so that when the Syrians try to cut off the water to Israel at that spot. those in the Israeli post "take care" of the potential problem.
Children's wading pool
Did you know that in Israel, a country about the size of New Jersey, there are approximately 3000 protected habitats? This one, believe was named Tel Dan, and surprised all of us with its beautiful forested areas, running brook and pond - along with many old ruins.
After that nature jaunt, we were off to the Golan Heights. Who ever thought we'd be at the Golan Heights! At least one-third of the Golan Heights are off limits to everyone because of land mines that still to this day not charted. It is my understanding that the work continues to diffuse and get rid of these land mines.
Off the van and we climbed up to the vantage point to overlook the most beautiful, verdant, agricultural valley. Almost as far as the eye could see, there was food growing. But where it stopped, that was Syria. Desolate. Nothing being done to turn the desert into arable land - useless. Israelis have been masterful in turning desert all through their country into land that produces beautiful fruits and vegetables - lots of olives, too!!!
Because the surrounding has seem much military action, there are tons of rusting pieces of metal to be found. Artists in the area have made good use of these relics of battle, and the walkway up to the top of the Golan Heights is lined with many very clever sculptures (and some not so clever!)
We were not done yet, there were two more stops. So we headed to a small town of Barkuta (sp?) were we to have lunch in the home of a Druze woman. I'd never heard of this Israeli culture / sect, so went on line and have included the following:
The Druze are a secretive surviving Gnostic community in the Middle East today who publicly claim homogeneity with Islam due to a historical fear of persecution. In truth, they have nothing in common with Islam and do not believe or practice any of the pillars of Islam or worship any of the Islamic figures revered by both prominent sects of Islam, The Sunnites, and/or The Shiites.
They do not practice polygamy, pilgrimage to Mecca , fasting during Ramadan or any other holy month or period, prayer in churches, mosques or any form of ritualistic behavior historically or currently practiced by both Christians or Muslims.
Their texts are referred to as 'The Hikma Texts' and they are forbidden even from most of the Druze themselves if they're not initiated (ready to receive the knowledge). El-Hikma is the Arabic term for 'wisdom' and the Druze scriptures include material from Ancient Hermeticism, Ancient Greek Philosophy , Hinduism, Buddhism, Ancient Gnostic Judaism, Christianity, and Sufi Islam.
The Druze were historically forced to assume homogeneity with their Muslim counterparts in the Middle East (amidst a sea of Islam) in fear of persecution due to their controversial doctrines and because they strategically have no other choice, especially that they are not open to conversion (no one who is not born to a Druze parents can ever become Druze) which render them a minority community with its population on the decline.
Unlike the Sunni(s) in The Levant who have Saudi Arabia backing them, the Shiites who have Iran backing them, The Catholics who have the Vatican backing them, the Orthodox who have Russia and Greece behind them, and the Jews who have a Jewish state and the Jewish Diaspora supporting it, the Druze have no external support. Hence, they historically had no other choice but to assume homogeneity with other religions, defend the land they’re on and serve the state they fall under.
They had no choice but to assimilate with the neighboring religions and communities to the point of almost dissolving. In Syria they act in public like they are Muslims. In Israel, they almost cannot be differentiated from the Jews and they serve in the Jewish army and state. In Lebanon they have a bit more freedom and they coexist with Muslims and Christians equally.
The Druze woman has a restaurant in her home and we were treated to a series of home cooked dishes that were all delicious.
After a very hearty lunch, we were invited into her living room where we all sat on low pads against the wall, and listened to her while she told her story and served us fresh fruit and sweets. For a Druze woman, she has been extremely entrepreneurial - the first Druze woman to drive, run a business, make a huge success out of that business, and is now telling her story all over the wold. Quite remarkable!
And then, because no outing is complete without wine of the region, we set off for one of Israel's best wineries, where we tasted a few wines. For me, nothing that stood out on my palate, but it was fun.
PS: Thank you again to Goldring Travel for supplying me some missing photos!!!
Most of us snoozed on the way back to the ship, about a two-hour ride. This was to be our last evening aboard ship, so we did a quick cleanup, met for drinks in Candles, and then retired to finish our packing before departure the next morning.
When I entered my suite that evening this was hanging above my bed.
Tuesday, October 18, 2022 - Haifa, Israel to Home
Had to be off the ship by 7:15 the next morning. It was almost a two-hour ride to Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion airport. Thus began the most bizarre debarking in the history of my travels - but then this is Israel and security is of utmost importance.
After leaving the ship and presenting passports, we got on a shuttle bus with our luggage and drove about two city blocks where we and our luggage were off-loaded. Showed passports once again, loaded luggage on to conveyor belts where they could be x-rayed, and then finally on to another shuttle bus so we could leave the port area and arrive at "Gate Five" to connect with our vans and drivers for our trip to Tel Aviv.
I believe the shuttle bus connected with every square inch of the port pavement as the driver tried to exit the area. The path out had no rhyme or reason - back and forth and finally out of the port and in the middle of terrible morning traffic. Where was Gate Five?
In about 30 to 45 minutes, we arrived at a public bus stop on the side of the road and were directed to get out and claim our luggage. But where were our vans? Bus driver pointed to the bus depot clear across a large parking lot. Must be over there. Finally Eric and Jacky took off to find the vans while Iva, Jane and I sat with the mountain of luggage.
After a bit, Eric came into a view with a large black van following him. We were directed to get into the van - driver would pack luggage into the back. Eric and Jacky would follow in second van and meet us at the airport. In minutes we were on our way.
After two passport checkpoints, one with accompanying uzi's, we arrived at the airport where Jacky was waiting to direct us. Jane, Iva and Eric were all flying to Newark, I was flying to Toronto and Jacky was flying to Scotland. Quick goodbyes at the airport and we were on our way to show our passports to lots more people.
Toronto was also not easy because had to clear U.S. customs there and my Global Entry was not working - believe the machines were wonky. So again, and probably for four times at this airport, showed the passport, answered the questions and finally got to my connecting flight just before boarding was called.
This last day was difficult - but then I have the reflections of this quite unique trip, the memories described in this journal - while in reality, much of the beauty, joy and tastes of this trip can't really be described - one had to be there!!
Thank you to all of my fellow travelers who enriched my experience - old friends, new friends, and particularly to Eric Goldring of Goldring Travel for giving us another incredible and memorable experience. We appreciate your creating these culinary and cultural journeys for us!
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