Thursday, SFO to JFK and JFK to Santiago de Chile
Our long anticipated trip to Antarctica (my third!) is finally here. I begin this journal on a Delta flight from SFO to JFK, accompanied by Steve and Rose. We are just about one hour out of New York, and then will have an almost five hour layover before flying down to Santiago, Chile.
Having a 6:00 a.m. departure flight from SFO meant that we were picked up by the car service at 3:00 o’clock this morning, an awful hour. I usually have trouble sleeping before leaving the house, wondering and then wondering some more, whether or not I’ve forgotten anything in my suitcase – so with the hour of this pickup, I didn’t even go to bed.
Because of the charter flight from Santiago to Puerto Williams on Saturday, where we will board the ship, we are each only allowed one suitcase, plus our carry-ons. When travelling to an extremely cold climate, the clothes one brings are quite bulky . . . heavy sweaters, all sorts of layers, waterproof pants to go over all of the layers which are also padded, etc.
On the up side is that this cruise on a SilverSea ship does not have any formal nights, I asked a friend who’d done this cruise a few months ago, how people dressed in the evening and she responded that some had washed their hair before dinner! Love that! Not having to carefully pack evening clothes made some of my clothing choices pretty easy.
A three and a half hour layover scheduled in the Delta Sky Club, where the food is incredible and the room so crowded!!. . . (believe there were over 600 people in this facility) and after a search we finally found a little corner where we could sit, rest, nosh, and imbibe!
The manager of the club is unique . . . at least I think she is the manager. . . know she is unique! . . . a young to middle aged, attractive Afro American woman with personality plus. She was a constant moving target making announcements that we should all eat and drink, enjoy, finding out people’s birthdays, finding out those who were celebrating an anniversary, and generally making us laugh. I haven’t seen energy like that in a while. Then it was time for us to board our next leg to Santiago.
The LATAM plane was roomy, clean and had a most gracious crew. Food was pretty good too, and wonder of wonders, I didn’t take any food photos!! We were fortunate to be in Business Class, so had lie flat seats which allowed us to get much needed rest. Aside from the fact that I lost a ring down the side of my seat (which was recovered in the morning as I was lying on it!), and had to be rescued out of the lavatory by the stewardess (the lock got stuck!), it was a pretty good night on an airplane.
Friday, January 27 – Santiago de Chile
Once over the Andes and flying down the country of Chile, there were fabulous views of the ground below us where we could see the beautiful swirling patterns of the moving glaciers, and dramatic snow-capped mountains.
When we landed in Santiago (with all luggage accounted for) we were met by SilverSea reps who had us follow them from Point A to Point B, etc., several elevators, and then finally to a shuttle which whisked us away to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel – a real beauty this hotel!
Once checked in . . . and our rooms were ready for us at 10:00 a.m. . . . I crashed. Steve and Rose took off for a tour of the city on foot and in the subway. It’s wonderful to be young and brave! I slept for another two and a half hours, and then went to the restaurant for a bite to eat . . . there were the kids. . . back from their city hike. We enjoyed lunch, got ourselves checked in at the SilverSea hospitality room which appeared to be open all day until 7:30 p.m., presented our passports, showed our vax cards, had our temperatures taken, and filled out a health information form to be presented on our embarkation to the ship tomorrow. Then a short rest before dinner at Matsuri, a Japanese restaurant in the hotel.
As we entered the dining area, someone called my name . . . recognized the face, but couldn't place the name . . . felt awful! Thankfully, she introduced herself. You know when you meet someone a continent away, and totally out of context, and you have a brain freeze?? It was Susie from Asher Clinic, where for many years the elderly and not-so-buffed went to work out and be helped by physical therapists to heal after injury and/or joint replacement. I had twice weekly sessions there to work out on a Pilates Reformer with a trainer - did that for many years until after my ankle replacement, and then it was not so easy. So nice to see her and to find that she, too, with her new husband, would be joining us on the ship to Antarctica. We will catch up later in the trip.
Our dinners were interesting, but when reading the menu saw that there way too many ingredients in the food that just might take away the authentic “Japanese” way of cooking . . . fish with parmesan cheese?
Think I ordered the most wisely – nine pieces of sashimi (Chef’s choice), served on top of a small chilled boulder, and a granite bowl of fresh vegetables sauteed in sesame oil. The fish was so sweet and not at all "fishy"!!.
Steve’s food was chunks of lightly seared ahi tuna in a bowl, swimming in some sort of milky sauce with sliced onions and are you ready . . . the biggest corn nuts you have ever seen!!
We never did figure out what fish Rose was NOT eating. It had a smoky sauce on it, not to my liking either!
Saturday, January 28 – Santiago de Chile to Puerto Williams, Chile and the SilverSea Cloud
At breakfast this morning we learned from our table mates that a group of travelers to the Silver Cloud were coming from Miami yesterday. Apparently, after almost a five hour delay, perhaps a plane change, and finally a takeoff, three hours into the flight, pilot realized that they had not refueled? Story is not clear because the delightful people who were telling us had rather thick accents, and all was not understood. All sounds sort of goofy, but anyway, those people who were to arrive at the Mandarin Oriental yesterday around noon, finally got in at 4:00 a.m. this morning. They were walking around like zombies - totally understand how they were feeling!!! It was American Airlines!
Yesterday we were assigned buses and times to go to a small airport to catch the three and a half hour flight to Puerto Williams. All plans changed this morning, and the entire schedule was bumped up one hour. This is fine with me, because believe this is the longest it’s ever taken me to reach a cruise ship from home. Am writing this now on a small plane (compared to the other planes we have taken on this trip. We are flying Antarctic Air, a charter, and probably won’t reach the ship until close to 7:00 p.m.
Honestly, am exhausted, with all of the landings and takeoffs. Perhaps future trips should not be so complicated for me – there’s that age thing – sssshhhhh!
At Puerto Williams and as we landed on the tarmac, we whizzed right past the Silver Cloud. The plane ended up parked just about a block away from the moored ship. We then boarded shuttles and seemed to take the long way around to the ship, sat on the shuttle for a while so that the ship registration would not be slammed with so many people at once.
Finally aboard, all additional papers signed, into our rooms, introduction to our Butler . . . yep, our Butler! Have never had a Butler before. He wanted to unpack for me . . . NOT! Then he took out his little pad and asked me for all of my wants and needs this cruise. He was so nice I couldn’t tell him that my first need was for him to just depart!!
Finally got a chance to be alone and do my unpacking. This is always when I find out what is still at home that I wish I’d stuck in the suitcase!!! . . .. then dinner at La Terazza (the Italian restaurant), a good bottle of Italian wine, and finally . . . bed. We’d left on the early morning of the 26th, and were finally at our destination on the evening of the 28th. I’d earned a really good night’s rest!
Sunday, January 29 – Drake’s Passage.
Well, it’s either going to be Drake’s Lake or Drake’s Shake. Think it’s somewhere in the middle so am going to call it Drake’s Shlake!! We are on our way to the Falkland Islands. The day is filled with making certain we have the right size jackets for Antarctica (mine was too big, so is now exchanged), getting our boots for the landings, the safety drill which is in 15 minutes, and safety classes for the people who will be going in zodiacs and kayaks.
What a day this has been! We’re all exhausted. There is one mandatory meeting after another, plus scheduled facial (Rose) and mani/pedi (Jeanne). Amazingly, we were able to view the playoff game between Eagles and 49ers . . . I know . . . ugly, but it is what it is . . . Had dinner delivered to my suite where we continued to play Dominoes, watch the game, and then an Italian movie. The day is coming to a close and I’m grateful. Need a big sleep!!
A bit of a recap . . .so many mixed signals today . . . Got our boots, then had to take them down to get ID’d. My ID tags are missing, so they’ve promised to send them to my suite. Then all outer clothing had to be taken to be checked for unauthorized pollen, seeds, dirt, etc., i.e., unless it is new clothing. Then was told later in the day that even new outer clothing had to be brought down to the expedition team to be checked at some later time. The Expedition team goes to great lengths to be certain that no foreign mites, soil, seeds, etc., are inadvertently migrated to Antarctica, or that anything from our Falklands stop tomorrow goes on to our next stop in the South Georgia Islands. All of this is important, but, there is no way that a record is being kept as to which clothing is being checked and what is not. Nothing is written down or photographed. The premise is great, but the follow through is wanting . . . Passengers are tired from their travel to this ship and need some time to settle in and anticipate what is awaiting them in Antarctica. Am certain that part of the problem comes from some three hundred guests being funneled on to the ship at approximately the same time . . . all tired . . . all not understanding the need for this special care because most have not been here before. Instructions are not only unclear, but vary in their exactness. Can I wear my own boots on the Falklands tomorrow? . . . Yes . . . No. . . which is it? . . . What is protocol for cleaning them if I wear them? . . . and on and on it goes.
Trying to be understanding, believe that leaving from Puerto Williams, rather than Valparaiso, gets us into the meat of the cruise much sooner than my two previous voyages. There is so much information and preparation that needs to be imparted to guests prior to the first landings in Antarctica. Am also wondering whether or not a recent explosion on one of the zodiacs with another sailing company, has caused the safety precautions to become more rigorous.
Steve and Rose hope to do a hike on the Falklands tomorrow, but although they have signed up, there is no information as to time. We shall see tomorrow . . .
Monday, January 30 - New Island and West Point Island.
Remote and raw, New Island lies to the west of the Falkland Islands. The humble human population is far outweighed by the extraordinary birdlife that resides along its craggy coastline. Crowds of Rockhopper Penguins are an eye catching sight, along with wrinkled seals, penguins, stern-looking albatross, and of course, the magnificent King Penguins.
West Point Island, a scenic north-westerly outpost of the scenic Falkland Islands was originally known as Albatross Island before being renamed to reflect its geographic location. It, too, hosts much diverse wild life such as more Rockhopper Penguins, Magellanic Penguins, Commerson dolphins in the waves, and the most dramatic scenery of the wind-lashed, distant land of soaring cliffs and towering coastal precipices treats the eye. Cliff Mountain is the island's standout - a towering sandstone monolith, and the archipelago's highest cliff.
Poor Captain . . . Lots of wind today. We anchored at New Island. Steve and Rose did take a short saunter. Then we were off to West Point Island, where it was impossible to anchor because of the winds, and now we are proceeding to yet another destination. Because of winds, all kayaking has been cancelled. Never did make another anchor today.
In 2019, with John and Sandi, we did a wonderful hike out to the cliffs to see the Rockhoppers, a shipwreck and beautiful countryside.
We've attended an informative lecture on birds of the region, played trivia, and of course, we've had meals.
So far, the food on this ship is okay - not great. The best meal I had was last night . . . a Pasta al Pesto (room service while we watched the game) that included some diced and sautéed green beans. Very delicious. Lunch fare at the buffet is mediocre. Today for lunch we dined at the main restaurant. Lemon fillet of sole was just okay. Corn Fritters were not good. Rose said her celery root soup was delicious. So far, there is very little in the way of cuisine that is encouraging me to take photos. Hope that changes.
The special wine list is a good one, and alcohol is always plentiful. Our suites are really beautiful for this aging lady of a ship - believe she's 28 years young. They refurbished our suites quite nicely. More than adequate storage, but bathrooms are quite small. Think that some of the common rooms, could use a freshening. Have been informed that she's going into dry dock as soon as the Antarctic season is completed.
We enjoyed our best dinner this evening in the Main Restaurant. Tasty Chilean Salmon and King Crab salad, all accompanied by a beautiful 2015 Penfolds Shiraz - really delicious. While the food was very good, it just doesn't warrant a photo.
During dinner I thought I'd broken a tooth, but instead it was a piece of crockery that must have flown into the sauce while being prepped in the kitchen. Know this happens, but it was brought to attention so that they might be watchful in future.
Tuesday, January 31 - Port Stanley, Falkland Islands
Despite it being a stalwart of Britishness, Stanley more resembles Patagonia than Portsmouth. But, despite the windswept, vast and achingly beautiful landscape of the Falklands, don't be too surprised to find the odd pub serving ales and even fish and chips.
The Falkland Islands' ownership has long been a matter of controversy ever since colonization in the 18th century. At various points in their life they have been considered French, British, Spanish and Argentine. The Falklands War in 1982, despite only lasting for a short while, proved that the Brits clung to this remote outpost and the islands remain part of the British Commonwealth today.
I believe it was at this stop in 2019, with John and Sandi, that we boarded 4 X 4 vehicles and had a three hour very bumpy ride over peat bogs out to a point where we saw hundreds of King Penguins pictured below. This time am staying on board while Steve and Rose do a six mile hike. I got to sleep late again this morning!!
These birds are so gorgeous!
Had a very good dinner tonight in the small French restaurant, La Dame. The room holds approximately 20 to 30 people. Enjoyed a petite lobster salad, truffled porcini soup, sea bass and filet of beef and a very tasty French wine. Dessert was great fun with an assortment of chopped fruits, citron, dehydrated apple slices and a little pot of honey.
Wednesday, February 1 - At Sea, On Our Way to South Georgia Islands
We woke to blue skies, warm sunshine and medium seas. Think I've caught up on sleep because didn't seem to need too much last night!
A beautiful day to sit out on the pool deck soaking up the warmth and watching Steve and Rose do a forced march around the deck. Believe they did 200 laps . . . better them than me!
Today will be more checks of our outer clothing. Don't know if the protocols have changed over the years, but the care being given this cruise not to contaminate Antarctica in any way seems much more stringent than my previous visits to Antarctica. I haven't been off the ship at all during our stops in the Falklands, so am wondering whether or not I have to bring all clothing and boots for a check once again.
My view as I settled in for a nap!
Two nights ago, the Maitre d' in the Main Restaurant asked us if we enjoyed Indian food. We said we did, and he (being from India) said that he would arrange a special dinner for us. This night was the night, and we added three more people to our table. The food was good, but we especially appreciated that they took the time to arrange something special for us. We had a tasty samosa, enjoyed starters from the regular menu, and then were brought chicken massala, a beef curry, rice, some side condiments and the highlight of the meal for me was the dessert . . . Gajar Ka Halwa . . . which consisted of diced carrots, cooked in milk, cardamom, butter and sugar. This mixture is cooked for a very long time. The chef reported that it had taken three hours. The final product is much like a carrot pudding - different but good . . . garnished with grated pistachios.
Thursday, February 2 - Still on our way to South Georgia Islands
Happy Ground Hog Day!
There's been some discussion as to one of our engines not working properly, so the ship has had a slight slow down while they work on it. The current timing for South Georgia is at midnight tonight. The weather is supposed to be worsening in the next few days, so we are all speculating as to whether or not we'll have any zodiac experiences and/or landings in South Georgia - right now all kayak experiences are cancelled.
Today the weather is grey, overcast, and seas are taking a bit of balancing from the passengers.
There is news that some of our crew is down with Covid, ergo, the re-emergence of a masked crew.
I had an appointment for a facial this morning, and slept right through it! Oh My! The spa has graciously rescheduled and I'm on for that appointment in a little over an hour. Have been assured this treatment will take ten years off me so when I emerge, I'll have a young face on a still very old body . . . UGH!!!
First sighting of an iceberg today!! YIPPEE!! Others have spotted whales and dolphins. There are tons of birds flying with the ship . . . I think mostly Albatross and Petrels.
Dinner tonight was good. . . tuna appetizer and scallops.
After dinner we headed to the Panorama Lounge for a round of Name That Tune. We had a great team, so of course, we won!!!
Friday, February 3 - Salisbury Plain and Prince Olav Harbour, South Georgia Islands
I woke to sounds of booted feet over head – certain that the noise was being generated by the Expedition Team offloading zodiacs into the water.
We are surrounded by many islands of varied shape and size, sometimes sparkling in sparse rays of the sun – a sun that is trying valiantly to win over the grey skies. Islands are rocky, mountains sometimes craggy, and with mossy green expanses here and there. There is snow up high, glaciers moving on down to the shores in their graceful paths, and the sounds of hundreds, more likely thousands of birds (including the penguins!) can be heard from my balcony. At this distance from shore they are mere specs to the eye.
King Penguins average height is three feet, one inch and their average weight is 33 pounds. The Emperor Penguin which I have yet to see in my travels is approximately four feet tall and can weight up to 100 pounds. They are down in Antarctica somewhere, but so far have been elusive. Probably on an island to which I've never traveled. At any rate, the King markings and colorings make them my very favorite penguin . . . so beautiful.
The estimated count today is 120,000 King Penguins, plus their chicks . . . truly an awesome number. Along with the Kings are the most adorable baby fur seal pups. Want to bring one home!!!
The second outing was a zodiac ride visiting local wildlife and scenery.
We opted for room service this evening. It was nice to stay in, play cards, have food delivered and then watch a movie.
Took this photo just before retiring.
Saturday, February 4 - St. Andrews Bay and Gold Harbour, South Georgia
Happy Birthday, Adolfo!
More wonderful King Penguins await us on shore. This time the count is approximately 150,000 Kings . . . WOW! Additionally we were treated to elephant seals and a few more of the darling fur seal pups. At times, the wind coming down off the glacier was so strong I had trouble standing up. With the walking poles, and Steve holding on to my jacket I did remain upright, but barely.
Elephant seals, or sea elephants, were hunted to the brink of extinction by the end of the 19th century. The bull elephant seals reach a length of sixteen feet and a weight of 6,600 pounds, (three tons plus!) while the cow is considerably smaller reaching a length of about 10 feet and only weighing approximately 2,000 pounds - that's one ton!!!
We enjoyed a lively table last night at dinner as we had asked Jonathan, the Cruise Director, to join us. Lots of laughter!
An interesting starter salad of goat cheese, figs and walnuts, followed by broiled lobster tail over sweet pea risotto . . . . and lots of good wine! Tried a Paul Hobbs from Napa Valley, but then went back to the lovely Caymus Cab!! So delicious!
Sunday, February 5 - Grytviken and Cooper Bay, South Georgia
We were dressed and ready to go at 7:30 a.m. This morning there were officials aboard to double check all of our clothing, boots, etc., before we were cleared to go ashore. The expedition crew had gone over all boots while we were sleeping, to make certain that there was not the smallest pebble caught in the treads. If we didn't pass muster, then the whole landing could be aborted.
Grytviken (Swedish for "Pot Cove") is the principal settlement in the British territory of South Georgia in the South Atlantic. It was so named by a 1902 Swedish surveyor who found old English try pots used to render seal oil at the site. It is the best harbour on the island, consisting of a bay (King Edward Cove) within a bay (Cumberland East Bay). The site is quite sheltered, provides a substantial area of flat land suitable for building on, and has a good supply of fresh water.
The surrounding mountains are once again stark and dramatic with some glaciers visible in the distance. On shore is an abundance of rusting machinery where in the first whaling season alone (early 1900's), 195 whales taken were processed, using every part of the mammals. The blubber, meat, bones and viscera were cooked to extract the oil and the bones and meat were turned into fertilizer and fodder.
Among all of the old rusting machinery on the dewy green grass, in mud puddles, and on top of beautiful reedy bushes rest fur seal pups, adult fur seals, and "tons" of Elephant seals all around. These guys are hysterical as they sleep alongside and on top of each other, in the mud, farting all the while! So funny!
Final resting place of Sir Ernest Shakelton.
Monday, February 6 - En Route to Antarctica
Happy 24th Anniversary to Steve and Rose!
We are rocking and rolling today on a storm tossed sea on our way to Antarctica via the Scotia Sea (or Strait). It's been really rough today. Staff has changed a couple of event venues to lower decks because it's a bit easier to navigate on the lower decks.
Have been so very good at lunches eating primarily salads. However, today was craving a hotdog, and boy did I ever get a hotdog!!! It arrived with BACON, French fries and onion rings. Was very tasty!!
We won Trivia today, only by one point, but a win is a win! There are really some crazy questions!
Tonight I'm dining with some guests from Canada. Was delighted with the invitation so that Rose and Steve could have a nice dinner alone at La Dame. They did have a great dinner and were showered with desserts! . . . some of which magically appeared in my suite later that evening.
At our table we began with the Beaucastle Chateauneuf du Papa, and then tried a new French wine for me. It was very good. Enjoyed the wines with a quite good Osso Buco.
After dinner we went to Liars' Club. This is always a fun event that is made up of four staff/crew members who all give an explanation of some obscure word. The audience has to decide who is telling the truth. Here are the words, and the probably incorrect spelling and meaning - can't remember!!!
crapulous - drinking together socially.
accicimus - pretending not to like someone when you really do
rastaquoere - someone who dresses trying to impress and ascend social ladder
monarsous - an event that has more women in attendance than men
jettatura (my favorite!) - the evil eye
Tuesday, February 7 - En Route to Antarctica
Much calmer today though it has lightly rained almost continuously. One can actually walk around the ship without appearing the worse for drink!
Quiet day except for Trivia - we didn't win! Here are some trivia questions:
The Lion King is based loosely on which Shakespearian play?
What is the name of a female donkey?
In February 2022, who dropped off the list of the ten most wealthy men in the world?
The play "Kiss Me Kate" is based on which Shakespeare play?
What is the capital of New Zealand?
Which country won the first FIFA title?
Here's a little info about the Antarctic fur seal. It's a fairly large animal and has a short and broad snout compared with others in the family. Adult males are dark brown while females tend to be grey with a lighter underside. Color patterns are highly variable and some scientists believe some hybridization with subantarctic fur seals has occurred. Pups are dark brown at birth, almost black in color. About one in 1000 Antarctic fur seals are pale blonde variants.
The male can grow up to 6.5 feet long and weight anywhere from 201 to 475 pounds. They live for about 15 years and females up to 25.
Answers to Trivia:
Hamlet
Jenny
Mark Zuckerberg
Taming of the Shrew
Wellington
Uruguay
Wednesday, February 8 - At Anchor, Point Wild and Echo Bay, Antarctica (Elephant Island)
Today was frustrating for guests on board. First scheduled was a zodiac tour around the beautiful scenery of Elephant Island, but alas, that was cancelled because of broad swells which made it very dangerous for us to enter the zodiacs. When it was announced that if anyone was not too steady they might reconsider going on this first tour, I opted out. Why take the chance of getting hurt or endangering anyone else? But then, the whole thing was cancelled.
So, we moved on to Echo Bay where a wet landing was planned, but alas, that, too, was cancelled. Better to be safe than sorry.
On Elephant Island, Sir Ernest Shackleton is immortalized via a monument that holds a bust of Sir Ernest. It stands often surrounded by a migrating crowd of tiny gentoo penguins at Point Wild, the spot where he and his 28 crew members camped for four and a half months of Antarctic winter. . . brrrrrrr. Photo below is courtesy of Google.
Thursday, February 9 - At Anchor, Half Moon Island and Yankee Harbour, Antarctica
Once again, and I'm all ready to depart, the announcement about the swells with warning to the "unfit", so I shed all my gear and stayed in. (Thanks to the spotty wi-fi in this part of the world, have lost the rest of this day, so will try to recreate it later . . . UGH!)
Very good sushi for lunch and excellent smoked salmon.
Every day has some gin rummy, and today we were helped along by this delicious bottle of Champagne Rouge which was waiting for me when I boarded the ship.
Friday, February 10 – At Anchor, Mikkelsen Harbour and Cierva Cove, Antarctic Peninsula.
A bit of a critique here, and I can only compare with prior trips to Antarctica on the Seabourn Quest. The mud room on this ship (where your shore boots are stored), is a very small enclosed room which fills quickly with the many heavily puffed, red coated guests all trying to get into their boots and store the slippers that they wore to the mudroom. It is claustrophobic!!! Add to the size of the room, and all of the people in it, is the fact that we are layered within an inch of our lives so that once outdoors, we won’t freeze!! Here are the layers:
Long heavy socks, over which go the almost knee high rubber boots.
A special shirt (I have Omni-Heat by Columbia) that is lined with tiny metal pieces that reflect back your own body heat
Long underwear (top and bottom), hopefully that is fleece lined.
Then comes the jacket supplied by the ship (which you can take home). It has two parts that can be separated. The under jacket is a puffy sort, quite warm, and the outer is the red water proof hooded jacket you see in the photos. . . . and we’re not done yet!
Of course, there’s a fleece lined hat that covers your ears (and keeps your hearing aids in place!)
Once you are in all of the above, you add the life jacket which is a nifty little thing that is guaranteed to inflate if you land in the drink.
. . . and I almost forgot, am carrying walking poles which do collapse to a smaller size (and thankfully, Steve is often carrying them at this point in our trip ashore)
By the time you have all of this gear in place, you can barely move. Then you have to maneuver down the ladder and be helped into the zodiac . . . thank goodness there are many hands to help. Finally you reach shore and all landings in Antarctica are “wet landings”. That means that you have to “maneuver” yourself over the edge of the zodiac, plant your feet in the water and get ashore.
To get back to the ship, you once again step into the icy water, maneuver yourself to sit on the edge of the zodiac and swing your legs over and into the zodiac. The expedition team who help get you in and out of the zodiacs are wonderful. And for oldies, they often put a little step stool into the water so one has an easier time getting in and out of the zodiacs.
Once back on the ship, you step into a disinfectant bath for your boots, then go to another small room where there is an automated scrubber that cleans the treads and sides of your boots, then on to another small room that has several hand-held shower heads where you once again check your boots and pants, scrub them with disinfectant and a brush, rinse, and you’re good to go. All of it is quite good exercise!!
On the Seabourn Quest, the mud room is quite large, there is ample seating for getting on and off one’s boots, and I believe it has an open air outlet so that it remains fresh and you don’t get overheated with all the gear you are wearing. Am wondering if the protocol on the Seabourn Quest has changed because of the increase in tourists to Antarctica. Perhaps it is closer to what we are doing on this ship, but at least there would be a little more space in which to do it!!!
Today’s wet landing at Mikkelsen Harbour was difficult for me, but then almost everything is getting difficult for me!! Tons of ice in the water at shore, so the expedition crew was pushing some of it out of the way to make a clear path for the zodiacs to get as close as possible to the shore. Lots of Gentoo penguins waiting for us, and tons of very large dried whale bones. The way was a mucky, poopy mess, until we got to the snow and then it was slippery. I used walking poles, but even with them, Steve had hold of the back of my jacket and almost hoisted me upward with every step – thank you, Steve. Decided to stop and was told to not move until they came back for me . . . sure!!
Soon as their backs were turned, I began my descent extremely slowly and carefully, but I did it. The fun of using the walking poles today was that when put into the snow, they sometimes sank three feet. Though you can have the disks that are at the end of the poles to use in snow, we were advised to take the disks off our poles so that when they sometimes break, they are not left behind. All in all, it was a fun outing.
Gentoo penguins are closely related to the Adelie penguins which we will see tomorrow (didn't see them!). A Gentoo is easily recognized by the wide shite stripe extending like a bonnet across the top of its head and its bright orange-red bill. It has pale whitish-pink webbed feet and a fairly long tail – the most prominent tail of all penguin species. As the Gentoo waddles along on land, its tail sticks out behind, sweeping from side to side, hence the scientific name Pygoscelis, which means “rump-tailed”.
This one is aptly titled: "The Board Meeting" . . . . a group of molting Gentoos
This afternoon, Rose and Steve are in line for kayaking at Yankee Harbour. We are hoping that it will not be cancelled, as the wind is picking up a bit. . . . it was cancelled, as were the zodiacs which had begun transporting guests ashore, but turned back to the ship because the sea was too choppy.
So, it was an afternoon filled with Gin Rummy, while the captain slowly toured some beautiful ice formations, good wine, dinner in the restaurant, and then on to the main lounge where we could view the Super Bowl.
One of our new friends on the ship, Ellen, arranged a Super Bowl pool, and at $10 per square, it will quickly filled. While the entire pool was worth $1,000, half was designated to the Crew Welfare Fund. As it turned out, everyone agreed that should they win, all funds were to be turned over to the CWF. So nice!
Isn't it amazing that even in Antarctica, we can view the Super Bowl!
We were sorry that the Eagles didn't win because the Cruise Director, Jonathan Shade, comes from Philly.
Saturday, February 11 – At Anchor, Neko Harbour and Cuverville Island, Antarctica
Today’s weather, same as yesterday has us getting more light rain and snow, and unfortunately, it is once again overcast! Darn! The photos would be absolutely stunning if we just had a little sunshine! I am missing the sharp blue hues in the ice when the sun shines.
Note the people in the lower right of the photos which will give you some perspective.
This morning’s landing at Neko Harbour has more Gentoo penguins waiting for us. We all bundled up and loaded into the zodiac. I’d forgotten the rocky terrain (almost little boulders!) and the huge hike up the mountain on a snow trail. So when we landed on shore, I opted to stay in the zodiac and return to the ship. It turned out to be the best decision as our zodiac driver took me and another golden oldie on a thirty minute zodiac tour of the ice. SOOOOOO, BEAUTIFUL!!! Photos really don’t do Antarctica justice. The scale, grandeur and colors of the ice and rocks are beyond description. You really have to be here, and I hope you all will one day travel to Antarctica . . . it’s the most awesome place I’ve ever visited!
Our zodiac driver fished this piece of "black ice" out of the sea to show us that when out of the water it is clear as glass. That's because all of the hair bubbles have compressed out of the ice. When floating in the water it reflects the dark color of the sea . . . therefore "black ice". We were told that this particular piece of ice is probably 10,000 years old!
Once back on the ship, realized that in the wonder of the viewing from the zodiac, didn’t realize I’d turned into a popsicle – the hot shower was so welcome!!
Here's a perfect example of a "penguin highway", made by penguins using this same path over and over.
The Adelie penguins are still to come. They were discovered in 1840 by scientists on the French Antarctic expedition led by explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville. He named the penguins after his wife, Adele. Though they are very fast travellers on their feet, they prefer to plonk onto their bellies and toboggan where there is ice and snow. They breed around the entire Antarctic coast and small islands in places where there is exposed rock.
Sunday, February 12 - At Anchor, Portal Point and Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica - Last Stop in Antarctica!!
It’s cold, with lots of floating ice in the water . . . and finally, Rose and Stephen got to go kayaking! Aren’t they just too cute in their special gear?!?!?!
Kayaking here has always intrigued me, but never had the courage to be in that little boat with the possibility of tipping into the icy sea. Steve said it was the highlight of this trip and he felt safe and well instructed on the process. Rose said that she almost froze her fingers off!!! The photos of Steve and Rose in the Kayak below were taken by a member of the expedition team and though they may appear photo shopped, they are not. It was just this perfect!
They are all ready to go!! Aren't these outfits gorgeous?!?!?
We dined in tonight.
Icebergs - Just the Facts.
Glaciers "flow" or "creep" outward under their own weight like a viscous fluid. When the edge of a glacier advances into the ocean the pieces that break off are what we call icebergs. They are comprised of pure fresh water. The term "iceberg" most likely comes from the Dutch term "ijsberg", which means ice mountain.
Between 10,000 to 15,000 icebergs are calved each year. The glacial ice that icebergs are made of may be more than 15,000 years old. Seven-eights of the iceberg's mass is below water. The average iceberg weight for the Grand Banks area is 100,000 to 200,000 tons and is about the size of a cubic 15-storey building. The largest icebergs (also referred to as ice islands) originate from the vast ice shelves surrounding Antarctica. Ninety-three percent of the world's mass of icebergs is found surrounding the Antarctic.
In 1987, an iceberg with an area of 6,3350 square kilometers (roughly the size of the state of Rhode Island) broke from the Ross ice shelf in Antarctica. That berg had a mass of around 1.4 trillion tons and could have supplied everyone in the world with 240 tons of pure drinking water.
When iceberg ice melts it makes a fizzing sound where the term "bergy seltzer" comes from. The sound comes from the popping of compressed air bubbles that are in the ice. The bubbles form when air is trapped in the snow layers that are compressed to form glacial ice. The released air is as old as the ice - thousand of years!
Birds taking flight from an iceberg are a good sign that the berg is about to roll. A possible explanation is that birds' keen sense of balance enables them to detect gradual movements in icebergs long before people can see them. Floating ice shelves constitute 11 percent of the area of the continent of Antarctica. If Antarctica were to melt, the sea level would rise over 60 meters!!
Monday, February 13 - Day One of the Drake Passage
Would it be a Lake or a Shake? Turned out that most of the rolling occurred during the night, so that it evened out pretty much to a lake during the day.
Did have my second facial of the trip, and just have to share a photo that my facialist took without my knowing. You may laugh uproariously!! What we women don't go through!!!
Tuesday, February 14 - Second Day of Drake's Passage to Puerto Williams
Another day of the "lake". We were very lucky. Seems this is the most calm that the Drake passage has been during this season for this particular ship.
We docked at Puerto Williams late afternoon. Rose and Steve took a walk and I had a manicure. So smart to get one right before I come home and begin again doing chores and washing dishes!!!
Dinner in the restaurant and our last bottle of that beautiful Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. Once again, some of the food looked and tasted as though it had been prepared hours before serving, maybe even the day before.
Wednesday, February 15 - Debarking the Ship.
Up at 5:00 a.m. and it's pouring rain this morning. We hope to catch our shuttles to the small plane that will take us to Santiago. Also, I'd hoped to leave my puffy jacket and the outer waterproof coat so that one of the crew could have it. But, ended up wearing the outer coat, and it's a good thing, because as we left the ship, it began snowing!!
As I came down the gangway with my carry on bags, was met by Slobodan, the Sommelier in the main dining room. He gallantly helped me with my bags. Looking back, should have asked him if he'd brought me another bottle of the Caymus.
On to the small shuttles to the airport for the charter flight back to Santiago. While on the plane we were able to visit more with Peter and Elin, from Canada, and their friend Jana, who hails from Phoenix. Peter and Elin are the two reasons why our team won so handily at Name That Tune. They have incredible minds when it comes to remembering music . . . not only the tune, but the title, the recording artist, and the composer. With just a very few notes as a clue, a light bulb goes off and they have the answer. Absolutely remarkable! . . . and they are so nice and much fun!
Additionally, I would like another experience with SilverSea ships. Am hoping for a bit better food, and know that the ship will be in better shape than the Cloud, because it is much newer. Will report back next year.
I was pleased that while on the plane, Elin let me know that they were sailing from Sydney to New Zealand in January 2024 on the Silver Muse, and would I be interested in joining them . . . of course!! Jana will also be meeting them. I want to be on their Name That Tune team!!!!
After a refueling stop in Punta Arenas, we arrived in Santiago, checked into our day rooms at a Hilton near the airport and had an easy day. At 7:30 p.m. we were on a bus to the airport for our flight to Atlanta, and then on to San Francisco. All happened on time.
Considering all of the difficulties with flights these days, must say that all of our flights were on time, and all connections were easy. Was happy to have Stephen with us when we arrived in Atlanta as he'd flown in and out of that airport many times while he was working for Phillip Morris. He knew the way!
It's been a wonderful trip. Though I do wish that the weather had been a little nicer. There were more grey skies than I'd remembered from previous trips and I so longed for that bright, crisp white of the ice when the sun shone.
Can't say enough about the staff and crew aboard Silver Cloud. They were wonderful!
But now, it's good to be home. So, until next travel adventure, will say adieu!!!
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