2025 Africa - Land Safari in Botswana and Culinary & Cultural Cruise on SilverSea, Silver Wind, Cape Town, South Africa to Accra, Ghana - PART I
- jcapurro1
- Mar 15
- 13 min read
Updated: Apr 13
All descriptions in italics at the start of some days, are taken from the internet, either Wikipedia, Britannica, or somewhere! - so that I could have a landing place. Am so unfamiliar with this part of the world that I needed something to be factual . . . so there you have it! Whatever else I write will be my own thoughts and experiences. Wish you were all here to enjoy this adventure with me! If you want an advance notice of what we'll be doing, how, where and when, go to Goldring Travel Blog - Part 1::
I will try to plug in these blogs from my talented travel agent as we go along.
Tuesday and Wednesday, March 25 and 26 - San Francisco to Dubai
Here I sit at the San Francisco International Airport. Check-in was a breeze, hardly anyone here today. Am currently sitting in the Emirates lounge, had a little bit to eat (food very good), and have been informed that I board the plane in an hour and a half, directly from the lounge . . . . well, that's a first! This is my initial experience with Emirates. Have been told that it's a wonderful flight experience . . . I don't want to like it too much!!
Emirates IS such a wonderful experience! Really thoughtfully designed cubicles in business class, with more than adequate storage for anything you want to have at hand during the flight. The lie-flat bed, with a special mattress covering for sleeping was comfortable. Attendants delightful and of course, very beautiful! Food delicious and too plentiful! The crowning touch for me and one that my daughter-in-law will be envious, is that each passenger had their own Haribo gummy bear packet!
It was a very long flight (16 hours) but I was able to sleep for several hours. Had the first course of the main meal which was a mezze plate (baba ganoush, hummus, stuffed grape leaf, etc.) and was so full that I declined the entree.
Upon arrival in Dubai at 7:00 p.m. on Wednesday, as soon as I left the air bridge, was met by an Abercrombie and Kent representative, who held a card with my name on it. He was to escort me to the Dubai International Airport Hotel for an overnight, as my connecting flight wasn't until 4:10 a.m. the next morning. So wonderful to get a shower, a change of clothing and a few hours of rest in a real bed!
Thursday March 27 - Dubai to Johannesburg, South Africa
When I went down to check out of the hotel, I was told that I could have an escort to my gate. Great! Because if you've been reading my blogs of the past, you know how I can get myself into a jam in an airport and this airport is purported to be the largest one in the world! I was quite early for my flight, so was shown to the nearby Emirates lounge, and then it would be just a two-minute walk to my gate. I could see it!!
The lounges at Emirates are just as wonderful as their planes. Rather than have huge plates of warming food, theirs are smaller and changed often. Also there is a varied and tempting selection of very small plates, perhaps just three or four of each are put out at a time, so all of the food is quite fresh. I know that it was just 2:00 a.m. but I was again tempted by the mezze plate and accompanied that with a glass of white wine.
There doesn't seem to be a formal bar setup in these lounges, but a choice of spirits, red and white wines and one just helps oneself!
This time an 8-hour flight had us landing in Johannesburg at around 10:30 a.m. Once again, I was met by a rep of A&E who escorted me to the baggage claim. On the way we avoided all passport lines and just cut in front of everyone - how embarrassing - but what fun! After collecting baggage we left the airport and were greeted by yet another A&K rep, who would escort me to the hotel, right across the street, help me check in, and give me all paperwork for the Botswana adventure, together with my flight information.
An hour and a half later my room was ready, so I unpacked and repacked safari clothing into a small duffle (which had been packed flat in my checked bags). No wheeled cases would be allowed on the smaller planes. What a fun exercise this was! I finally got all I needed into duffle, packed my wheelie full and then added that to my luggage (inside!). Finally got the darned thing closed. So now I only have the two large suitcases which will be forwarded to Cape Town and waiting for us at the end of the safari prior to our boarding the Silver Wind.
Decided I'd had plenty of food on the plane with little or no exercise, was advised not to leave the hotel alone, so showered, got into pj's and slept off and on for the next fourteen hours!
Friday, March 28 - Johannesburg to Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero - Botswana
Chobe National Park is Botswana’s first National Park and has one of the largest concentrations of game in Africa. By size, it is the third largest park in the country, after the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and the Gemsbok National Park.
When you visit the Chobe National Park, you will never forget the first glimpse of the dazzling, deep blue Chobe River, as it winds its way through sandy terrain, small towns, lush floodplains, dense forests of cathedral mopane trees, and endless broadleaf woodlands. The park is named after this majestic river that protects 10.700 km of the northern Kalahari desert, providing ensuing wilderness and a game density that is steadily remarkable.
Famed for its massive elephant populations, big herds of buffalo (matched only by some large lion prides) and incredible birdlife, Chobe National Park will leave an everlasting memory. Where else can you find such an amazing riverfront, with bustling wildlife, undisturbed predators, heavenly landscapes and tranquil lodges? The most accessible area of the park is the Chobe Riverfront, this is also where you will find the largest concentration of wildlife. For a more predator-rich area: head off to Linyanti Marshes. Or nourish your soul in the remote Savuti area. Wherever you go in this park, wildlife encounters are plentiful and all of Chobe feels like true wilderness. It is a place that can be enjoyed by everyone: couples, families and seasoned Africa travelers.
Awoke at 5:30 a.m., got myself organized, went down to a wonderful breakfast in the hotel. Now catching up this journal. Will shortly go back to the room, finish off duffle and meet everyone in hotel lobby at 8:45 a.m. We plan to leave the hotel at 9:00 a.m. for our flight to Botswana, and the Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero.
It certainly has taken a long while to get this far!!
Quite a trek through the Johannesburg airport - thank goodness for the escorts! An hour and forty-five minutes later we landed in Botswana, just a ten minute drive from Chobe Sanctuary.
I don't much like really small planes, but in order to get from Point A to Point B, sometimes that is the only alternative. This one was a 12-passenger plane, that took us from Kasane to Okavango. The flight was only one and a half hours, fairly smooth, with one stop for a departing passenger, and a pickup. We arrived at a termite infested tarmac . . . little mounds everywhere created by the pesky insects. Then a ten minute ride to Sanctuary Chief's Camp. Such a wonderful place, with vistas out to the savannah and a watering hole directly in front of the reception area which draws wildlife all day long .
Animals are everywhere. Photographic opportunities are abundant. If there are 190,000 elephants in Botswana, then I wonder at the number of impala, because they are very evident in large herds throughout the savannah.
The little houses for each guest are quite luxurious. There is a small foyer, large living / bedroom, bathroom with free standing tub, two basins, both an indoor and outdoor shower, and a separate toilet room. The unit has a wrap around deck that looks out to the savannah and the watering hole, and contains a beautiful plunge pool. It's not unusual to look out your windows to see baboons, impala, elephants, etc. Am surprised to find that I didn't take any photos of the accommodations, either here or at Chilwero - sorry!!
The facility is amazing, rustic yet luxurious and extremely peaceful. The property is circled by an electrified fence so as to keep out any of the more dangerous animals in Chilwero National Park. After dark, each guest must be escorted to and from the main lodge . . . just in case . . .
After settling in and having a bite to eat we were off on our first game search, with a guide during our stay - Tim. Tim was born here, and after years at Okavango Delta, he has come back home to serve in the area of his birth, and to also be able to spend time with his young son. He is awesome!
Will let the photos do the "talking" as soon as I have wifi sophisticated enough to upload to the computer - so far, no go. So, you'll all have to be patient. On the first day we saw a ton of elephants, jackals, impala, etc. Did you know that in the country of Botswana, it is estimated that the elephant population numbers approximately 190,000? In Chilwero alone there are between 60,000 to 70,000 elephants.
. . . and our first lion sighting. The highlight of the day was happening upon a pride of sleeping lionesses and their cubs all cozy in a leafy bower. We were able to see through the branches while we were in our vehicle and take a few good photos. We were within ten feet of the animals - amazing! Apparently, they know the trucks that take guests into the wild are not predatory, so as long as one remains seated in the truck, we are not looked upon as the enemy.
We filmed them through branches of their leafy bower where they'd made a cool home for themselves during the heat of the day. Mamas were still nursing their cubs. We were only ten feet away from the animals - incredible!
Saturday, March 29 - Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero - Botswana
The original inhabitants of Chobe were the Bushmen, followed by the – impressively named – Hambukushu, Bayei and Basubiya. In the 1850s, locals saw explorer David Livingstone passing through the area on his way to the Victoria Falls (a little over an hour away from Chobe National Park), and some big-game hunters seeking trophies and ivory. Luckily, for all the flora and fauna of this unique land, the area was first protected as a game reserve in 1961 and proclaimed as national park in 1968.
Up to this day the game-density remains exceptional. You will be forced to halt frequently because a parade of wildlife wants to pass by. Much better than stopping for a red light in traffic, right? Moderating the number of visitors to the park keeps it from feeling ‘too busy’, adding to the remote and exclusive Chobe safari experience.
Whenever you are close to the Chobe river, you will notice a broad variety of lush green bushes and trees. Away from water sources, the bushes get thicker and thorny, with few open areas.
We were up very early in the morning and out the door by 6:30 to begin the first tour of the day which lasted almost five hours, and again, more animals, repeats of the day before and added crocodiles, hippos, cape buffalo, giraffes and tons of birds . . . and of course, more elephants!
Never saw so many baboons at one time!
Today it was our hope to find lions again, and we did! Near where we spotted them yesterday, one female cat was out sunning herself across the road from the little community in the leafy bower. While we sat watching her, another one, and then another one ventured out across the road. We were so excited to see them
. . . and then, as if planned, enter two Cape Buffalo. Another lioness came out and we realized that they were protecting their cubs.
What followed next was most interesting . . . the back and forth of the cats and buffalo, stalking each other, running, advancing, retreating, and lying in wait . . . just like a chess game. We must have watched for an hour. The animals seemed totally oblivious to our presence. Happily, I can say that the "event" ended in a draw, each side retiring to its own corner. We then moved on. A really exciting morning.
Then back to the lodge, a late breakfast, a rest and out again at 4:00 p.m. for a cruise on the Chobe River. Again, lots more elephants, crocs, kudus and more . . . so wonderful!
We had beautiful vistas and more animals to visit during our cruise on the Chobe River.
We ended our cruise during a spectacular sunset, headed back to the lodge, and were treated to a barbecue with local specialities. My problem was that the lighting was so low, wasn't certain what I was eating, but it was good!!
Sunday, March 30 - Chobe to Okavango Delta - Sanctuary Chief's Camp - Botswana
Although Chobe National Park is a wildlife paradise, trying to describe it as a whole would be a mistake. Chobe consists of many different smaller ecosystems, each with its own vibe, different vegetation and animal population. We will explain more about the three areas here, but will try to give you an overview of what the park is about first.
You can encounter Chobe’s wildlife across the entire park. When the dry season begins, large herds of elephant and buffalo seek the permanent waters of the Chobe and Linyanti Rivers. Imagine thousands of them, coming sometimes all the way from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. All year round, Chobe’s big game includes zebra, impala, baboon, blue wildebeest, kudu, giraffe, warthog and vervet monkey. Lions and the spotted hyena are very common; together they are the dominant predators, bringing you spectacular encounters with big buffalo herds. The riverfront is the hotspot to see hippo, crocodile and the slightly odd, leguvaan (the second longest lizard of Africa).
And, although seen less, the incredible cheetah, leopard and Africa’s rare wild dog roam the Chobe area frequently. Your guide will keep an eye out for these unique animals: seeing them in their natural environment is an unforgettable experience. If you are very lucky, you might even spot the rarely seen, white rhino. Reintroduced in Botswana in 2001, they are spreading gradually. So a wandering rhino might turn up!
We were shown to our respective little houses, and after a short rest were on our first animal drive here in Okavango. Roads here are really bumpy - more so than in Chilwero. This time I was in the top back seat and got bounced around quite a bit. But the vantage point for spotting animals was great! Certain that the next days in this rig will be a true test of the state of my spine!! I was soon to learn that here in the delta, guides are not required to follow a "road", such as it is . . . but they can cut across country and make new pathways . . . very exciting!
Monday, March 31 - Okavango Delta - Sanctuary Chief's Camp - Botswana
The Okavango Delta (or Okavango Grassland; formerly spelled "Okovango" or "Okovanggo") in Botswana is a vast inland delta formed where the Okavango River reaches a tectonic trough at an altitude of 3,050–3,280 feet in the central part of the endorheic basin of the Kalahari Desert.
It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as one of the few interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea or ocean, with a wetland system that is largely intact. All the water reaching the delta is ultimately evaporated and transpired. Each year, about 2.6 cubic miles of water spreads over the 2,300–5,800 square mile area. Some flood waters drain into Lake Ngami. The area was once part of Lake Makgadikgadi, an ancient lake that had mostly dried up by the early Holocene.
Two beautiful game drives, one in the early morning until almost noon, and the other beginning at 4:30 p.m. Today was "Leopard" day! A beautiful creature that we visited in the morning.
So tired at end of day that I enjoyed a vodka tonic, skipped dinner and went to bed because I knew I would have to get up at 5:00 a.m. tomorrow morning.
Tuesday, April 1 - Okavango Delta - Botswana
The Moremi Game Reserve is on the eastern side of the delta. The delta was named one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, which were officially declared on 11 February 2013 in Arusha, Tanzania. On 22 June 2014, the Okavango Delta became the 1000th site to be officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
More wildlife wonders today during two game drives, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Revisited lions and leopard - they are so grand!
The afternoon drive ended at a gorgeous meandering pond where Eric had arranged for a generous choice of hearty nibbles and a full bar, beautifully presented and attended by the Sanctuary staff. They are so very sweet and friendly and most anxious to please their guests.
Wednesday, April 2 - Okavango Delta, Botswana to Cape Town, South Africa
I was wakened by what I first thought was a thunderous storm, and then mayby not, perhaps an earthquake! Couldn't figure out what was happening. Finally crept out of bed and peeked out between the curtains. I was surrounded by baboons, sitting on my balcony furniture, drinking from my pool, swinging from the trees, and doing a tap dance on my roof. There were fresh green leaves from the trees all over the ground. It looked as though the baboons had tried to denude the trees (and tear down my house!!!). What a mess!
Time to get up, pack my gear, have a bit of breakfast, and be ready by 10:10 a.m. to go to the local airport (hardly an "airport . . . just a scrubby landing strip) for the first leg of our flight to Cape Town. Another little plane - oh boy!! But the plane couldn't land until our driver cleared the runway of errant impala! We did several roundups!
Continued in Part II . . . .
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