August 2023 - Barcelona and Cruising the Mediterranean on Seabourn Sojourn

Flights from Hamburg and Munich were slightly delayed, but as luck would have it, so were John and Sandi's flights from San Francisco and Zurich, so as I prepared to descend in the elevator to the taxi station at the Barcelona airport, received a text from John that they'd just landed. Decided to wait for them so we could go to Hotel Casa Fuster together. And soon we were on our way in a taxi van large enough (barely) to accommodate all of us plus luggage.

The hotel is quite beautiful, old and gracious. Except for the fact that there was a pop-up pseudo Disney carnival outside in the street and the street was closed, which required us to walk a block with all of our luggage. DONE!

Before they left home, John made a reservation at a local tapas place for 9:00 p.m. Restaurant Minni Peppita is just a little hole in the wall that connects to another hole in the wall on the next street - very long and narrow. Names and messages of/from former patrons adorn each and every mini brick and tile in the place. The food was delightful - we shared several dishes. The weather is very hot and not at all conducive to my drinking wine, so opted for a Caipiroshka, which is like a Caipireinha made with vodka instead of Cachaca. This drink had cucumbers in it which made it the perfect libation on a very warm evening. The last time Sandi, John and I had Caipireinha cocktails was in Buenos Aires. The waitress lost control of the tray and the drink intended for inside me instead drenched me, leaving bits of sugar and lime all over me. Just in case, I was ready to duck for cover!

Aubergine with Goat Cheese and Apples

Octopus with green beans - so tender and delicious

Fried Calamari (actually sliced calamari steaks fried and sauced - my favorite!)

A wonderful evening, so happy to be with some of my family.

Returning to our hotel at nightfall - beautiful.

August 22, Tuesday - Barcelona, Spain

Sandi got on the plane in San Francisco with a toothache, and a slight swelling in her left jaw. The timing on these sorts of things is always just so perfect! First on the agenda when we got to the hotel last night was to locate a dentist. They would take care of it first thing in the morning, and they did.

As I write this, John and Sandi are at a local dentist, a specialist, and I'm awaiting the news. While I wait, of course, must have wine and cheese.

Clockwise from upper left - Gouda, Gorgonzola, Brie and Goat Cheese.

. . . and some Spanish chardonnay - not as good as French!

John and Sandi finally returned to the hotel at 4:30, with the tooth pulled. The story of their journey was too funny. Seems as though the Concierge at this hotel gave them the name of Dr. Canal whom she said was a specialist. However on arrival at the office, Dr. Canal turned out to be a gynocologist!! They called the hotel and realized that the incorrect address had been given to them. Then ran ten blocks to the correct address. In this heat that was a huge effort! The lovely female doctor at the new address turned out to be an orthodontist! Would we ever get this right?!?!? She couldn't treat the problem, but could take an x-ray to help diagnose the problem, and it was indeed a cracked root. Lady doctor suggested that they go to a dental clinic that was a mere two blocks from the hotel, and within minutes Sandi was in the dental chair and the dentist was pulling the tooth.

Sandi is on an antibiotic and prescription ibuprofen, can't have spicy foods nor drink any liquor for five days. Guess John and I will have to take up the slack!! But the problem is gone and with that Sandi can relax a bit. She won't have further pain nor worry, but probably a bit of bruising.

Needless to say, Sandi didn't feel like going to dinner. John and I went to Vivo, another tapas restaurant. The food was good, and we brought back some burrata and tomato salad for Sandi. Tapas are a great way to try new foods and flavors.

Beef cheeks cannelloni with béchamel sauce

Salmon tartar with caviar, sesame seeds and seaweed crackers.

Lamb sandwich with yogurt dressing

Grilled octopus over a bed of pureed potatoes

Tomorrow we're scheduled for a tour of La Sagrada Familia. Can't come to Barcelona without a visit to this phenomenal church.

Wednesday, August 23 - Barcelona, Spain

Sandi was determined to make the tour, but in hindsight, she should have stayed in bed. It is so very hot, perhaps 100 degrees. We took a taxi to Sagrada and met our guide, Ariadna. She was very informative and articulate, but when could we get into the inside of the church and see the beauty?

While we were getting the back story of how, why and when the church was conceived, and how Antoni Gaudi entered the process (you can Google it), Sandi began feeling very ill, and almost passed out. Our guide was wonderful and we got a wheel chair to transport Sandi to a taxi and back to the hotel. Combined with the heat of the day, pain, pain reliever that did virtually nothing after two hours (which left her with six hours until the next dose), the trauma of the surgery, and the fact that she'd eaten virtually nothing since yesterday - this combined for the "perfect storm".

John insisted that I stay with the guide and they'd head back to the hotel. I acquiesced, but did cut the tour short as my heart was back at the hotel and wondering how Sandi was doing. I did take a few hurried photos and share them with you here.

This is my third time visiting La Sagrada, and the first time that all four steeples are not visible. The top portions have always reminded me of kachina dolls from the Hopi reservation in the American Southwest.

Imagine the concept of walking into this church, and the belief that you are about to enter a stone forest. Each column is a tree truck, culminating at the top with leaves and branches. I like the analogy . . . isn't life sometimes like wandering through a forest?

Photo taken from the center, straight up. Wanted to lie down for a while in the middle of the floor and just take random shots upward. But, too crowded!! I'd have been trampled!

The two large lacy pieces and the smaller surrounding them in this photo have always intrigued me. Believe them to be glass, or maybe, porcelain. So beautiful, so fragile, so ethereal . . . absolutely stunning!

Over the altar, the crucifix floats down under what appears to be a fancy parachute. It's the only piece of this incredibly designed church that doesn't work for me. But what do I know!!

If you'd like to see more photos and explanation of La Sagrada Familia, you can check out my blog (on this site) entitled 2018 Culinary and Cultural Cruise from Barcelona. Had a very long personal tour that day, took better photos and garnered more information.

I did cut the tour short today and returned to the hotel to find Sandi doing somewhat better, but still not getting any surcease from the pain. I had a bite to eat at the hotel and went on to get a manicure at Le Manicure - the best manicure that I've ever had.

John spent the afternoon trying to find some relief for Sandi. He finally returned to the dentist and after consultation, he got a pain reliever that Sandi can tolerate, some interim help between doses, an antibiotic and a probiotic. We each had dinner in our rooms and an early night, I only prayed that tomorrow would bring Sandi closer to her pain free self!

Thursday, August 24 - Barcelona

Good news this morning! Sandi is better. Had finally found some pain relief and the swelling might just be down a bit. She is also beginning to eat soft foods.

Sandi and John took a taxi to the Rambla and walked around a bit, visiting one of my favorite markets, where fresh fruit, veggies, candy, meat, poultry etc., are only displayed as the Europeans can . . . making one totally hungry and wanting access to a kitchen!!!

Sandi and John are resting this afternoon because this evening we are attending a dinner that includes a jazz program. The hotel here is famous for this program every Thursday night between 9:00 and 11:00 p.m. I'm going to re-sort luggage and get ready to board the ship tomorrow.

Meanwhile, here are a couple of photos of beautiful Casa Hotel Fuster.

Friday, August 25 - Embarking Seabourn Sojourn.

The dinner show last evening . . . a jazz program featuring the music of Duke Ellington was terrific . . . better than any of us had expected. Food, as well, was beautifully prepared, artfully served and delicious. Three musicians, all local, one on saxophone, one on clarinet and one on piano were as good as you can get, loved what they were doing and therefore imparted great joy in the music. Truly a fun evening!!

This morning is a very hot and muggy day. There has been some confusion as to when and how we will be transported to the ship. Thanks to travel agents, Eric and Ross, we have complementary pickup and delivery at 12:30, and I also received a written confirmation under my hotel room door.

Checked out at 12:00 noon and our driver with van was already there. In all of my Seabourn cruises have never arrived so early to the ship. Apparently they have instituted an early arrival for Platinum and Diamond status guests. John and Sandi got to come along with me. Not only were we on the ship just a little after 1:00 p.m., but our suites were ready . . . Usually not prior to 2:30 p.m.

We enjoyed a lunch in the Colonnade, checked into to our muster stations and watched the safety video on the television. Then unpacked, decided where we would have dinner . . . Colonnade . . . and we were on our way for a cruise in the Mediterranean.

Dinner that evening in the Colonnade and much to my surprise, there was Andreas, Maitre d' of dining room and a very long-time employee of Seabourn. Such a wonderful and lovely man.

I have tried several complementary wines offered, and so far, there's only one that I will return to and that's Clarendelle, a white wine, which has been one of the complementary wines offered previously. There are two French wines that are on my list, but for the most part, will be ordering the specialty wines.

Saturday, August 26 - Mahon, Menorca, Spain

Hot and muggy - that seems to be the expected daily weather!!

Mahon, or Mao (pronounced "Maouw") is the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca. It's known for its British-style Georgian houses and sheltered harbor. Santa Maria Church, with an ornate 19th century organ sits on central plaza d la Constitucio. Next to the church, the city hall has a Renaissance facade and a clock donated by the island's first British governor. The natural harbor is the largest natural harbor in the Mediterranean.

We, all three, ventured ashore in the heat, took the giant elevator (John climbed!) to the upper streets, thereby thankfully missing a hundred or so stairs, and walked around peeking into shops and even buying some cool clothing . . . although there's nothing too cool for us to wear . . . it is so hot!!

After a while I gave up and returned to the air conditioned ship. Whoever invented air conditioning should have by now received a Nobel Prize!!

Following photos are courtesy of John and Sandi.

This shop one could smell from a block away - aging cheeses and sausages - YUM!

Back to the cool of the ship, a short nap and dinner outside at Earth and Ocean. Though it was hot, as the sun set, the temperatures became very pleasant. Good dinner - never disappointed at Earth and Ocean, although the staff seems abbreviated from previous cruises.

A really good show tonight in the salon, and an overheard conversation which I eventually entered. Explora I was one of the topics and the fact that dinner service in the main restaurant had been horrific this evening. Waited over an hour to order their food, one waiter (Simba - a really good waiter!) was run ragged trying to serve everyone, no glasses on the tables (that shouldn't happen), and a variety of other complaints.

We discussed the differences between Seabourn and Explora. Difficult for this long-time loyal Seabourn cruiser, but as I said last night, if Seabourn doesn't up their game, everyone who has been singing the praises of this line, will only be talking about Explora I.

Yesterday, the crew working the patio were not wearing hats. Certain that some of them were sick from the heat and sun. One crew member when asked about his hat, answered, that he'd just arrived on the ship and wasn't given a hat.

When we dined at Earth and Ocean tonight we waited over thirty minutes to ask if we'd like something to drink. I finally went over to the bar to order drinks, and there was no one there tending the bar. All of this shows the decline of Seabourn service and it makes me sad.

Of course, there are standouts in the crew, those that exude all of the Seabourn qualities, but they are fewer and further between what they used to be.

Dinner at Earth and Ocean tonight was good and consistent with what I remember in the past.

Sunday, August 27 - Bandol, France

Thunder and lightning through the night and still raining some this morning. It's a grey day. John and Sandi did go ashore, via tender. I stayed on the ship, trying to adjust to the extreme changes in temperature. I'm so confused . . . it's either too wet, too cold or too hot!!!

Bandol îs a gentle seaside resort in a sheltered bay, cradled by hills and protected from the wind, known as the "Ville Tranquille" for good reason. It is a popular summer destination, and especially pleasant to visit out of season when you can savor the beauty in the clement climate of a Mediterranean winter.

A nice day that began with Eggs Benedict Florentine, then lunch at Earth and Ocean where I had the hotdog . . . very bad sausage to bun ratio!! But, it was pretty tasty.

Think John had enough of the girl talk and opted to have an early evening and rest. Sandi and I went to dinner at Colonnade and enjoyed a Spanish food theme. . . very good Paella. I enjoyed a glass of pretty good Spanish Rioja.

An early night for me - a movie and bed. Tomorrow it's St. Tropez.

Monday, August 28 - At Sea (unplanned)

It was supposed to be St. Tropez today, but alas, super storm last evening, still raining this morning and another storm front moving in, so Captain Karras has opted to skip St. Tropez and we'll have a sea day. Early this morning there was a slight temporary break in the skies and I saw a double rainbow!

We have had news that due to high winds in Majorca, several passengers on a P&O cruise ship sustained minor injuries when severe stormy weather sent it smashing into a cargo vessel after their vessel broke free of its mooring, causing the walkway to fall into the sea!!! We in turn, tried to out run the storm but had quite a bit of rocking and rolling all day long. Lots of passengers never left their suites because of "Mal de mer"!!

A quiet day for me. John participated in Baggo (like Corn Hole), and was the winner, thereby adding to his Seabourn mug collection. Then he and Sandi won with their team at Name That Tune, adding another mug to their collection! If this keeps up, will they have enough room in their luggage on returning home?

. . . and the winner is . . . JOHN!!!

A most entertaining program prior to dinner . . . Liar's Club . . . where ship's personnel are given a word and must supply a meaning to that word. The object of the game is to decide who is telling the true meaning - our team tied for first place, thereby getting another mug . . . Oh Boy!!! Some of the words were really crazy, such as "Willywas"(a cold wind); "Borborygmos" (a gas); . . can't remember the others!

Then we decided to go to the main Restaurant for dinner. We've been hearing grumbling about the service there. It's only fair to try it out for oneself!

Interesting photo taken with a reflection in the window.

Service was excellent, food was good (not great), and sommelier was a hoot! Usually sommeliers take themselves very seriously, but this guy, Gerardo, from Chile, was just plain fun, and knowledgable.

Have you ever heard of a drink called "Jote" pronounced (ho-tay)? Well, neither had we! Apparently in Chile, during the summer, they take not so good wine and mix it half and half, with Coca Cola . . . UGH! Can't think of anything worse! So we all had a good laugh, as he conspiratorially related that fact . . . we decided not to try it out!

Spinach ravioli in herbed butter and toasted pine nuts

Petrale Sole

A "no-sugar added" dessert - quite good!

Tuesday, August 29 - At Sea

Up early and first one in Seabourn Square for my morning latte and a fruit bowl. Nice and quiet here, so can get some things caught up.

Sandi and John texted that they were headed for doctor, think there is further infection with tooth and indeed there was. She is on another run of antibiotics - feeling so very bad for her, especially as we drink wine and she cannot!

John is playing Baggo again this morning and perhaps he can add another Seabourn mug to his collection.

No mug for John, but it's been rocky so maybe he's just off kilter! We continue to try to outrun bad weather. Am tired of trying to keep my balance and have opted for room service this evening. It is a formal night, but don't have the energy . . . So it's room service and just before I ordered, John said he was going to bed. So, Sandi and I watched a really good movie "Somewhere in Queens" with Ray Romano, and enjoyed hamburgers and French fries.

Wednesday, August 30 - Trapani, Sicily, Italy

The weather changes quickly!

Trapani, "Drepanon" in Greek, has a scythe shape and an enviable location situated between the Mediterranean and Ionian Seas, beneath Mount Erice, near the archeological site of Selinunte and in front of Egadi Islands and the so-known salt pans. It is sometimes known as the "City of Salt and Sail". Trapani has been supplying salt for over 2000 years from the lagoon between Marsala and Trapani.

The weather fared no better through the night. If I slept two hours I was lucky. Am on the tenth deck at the back of the ship. The movement and noise was mighty. Can't imagine what it was like for those guests in the bow of the ship. As a result, there is a long nap in my future this afternoon, because want to be bright and shining for our first dinner at the Thomas Keller Grill. The Grill is the only dining venue on the ship where you need reservations, and usually you are only allotted one reservation per cruise. So we each reserved a date, and are on a wait list should anyone cancel.

That's our ship at the end of the street! (or is it another?)

Before dinner we attended a piano recital by Charl du Plessis from South Africa, who played classical to jazz and finished with his rendition of Rhapsody in Blue . . . my comment is that one shouldn't try to improve on George Gershwin. I thought his best piece was Maple Leaf Rag by Scott Joplin. But, he was a crowd pleaser!

We all looked forward to the Grill, especially the Caesar Salad that is made table side and with dramatic flair. So happy that it lived up to my memories!! Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for the rest of the meal.

This young lady took the preparation of the TK Caesar Salad to a new level. Want to try this at home!

That's the emulsified Caesar dressing ready to receive the lettuce before tossing!

The Dover Sole was tasty - pretty straightforward in the cooking and presentation - deboned and served table side. We also ordered sides of mushrooms (very good), Mac n' Cheese (runny - lots of milk that hadn't been incorporated into the "Mac" and not the usually toasty crust on top), wilted spinach (good), and my usual favorite Eggplant Parmesan (not very good). The Eggplant Parm in the TK Grill is usually a chopped and sautéed eggplant, evenly mixed with tomato, herbs and cheese. This one, however, had large chunks of eggplant and tomato - just not up to usual standards.

We finished the meal with the signature Sundae, and though I had the one scoop size, missing from the bottom of my concoction was the usual homemade marshmallow layer. Instead, there seemed to be a sort of marshmallow cream at the bottom - didn't have the pizzazz for which I was expecting!!

Our wine was sensational!!

It is tradition that diners are brought huge chocolate chip cookies after they've finished their meals at the Grill. One can request bags to take to our suites. I often take my cookie to someone on the crew who has been especially nice, or is working really hard to make the Seabourn experience real for guests. It is a looked forward to treat by many. So I brought mine to the Casino and asked them to share. I know it's enough that they are taking my money, but they really are so nice! Was told that many come to the Casino right after dinner at the Grill and because they cannot keep food on the gaming tables, their cookies are put in a cabinet. So often at the end of the evening, cookies are forgotten and guess who gets to eat them!!!

Thursday, August 31 - Mgarr, Gozo, Malta

The first view one gets of Gozo is that of Mgarr Harbor - a scene so beautiful and serene that it is captured by photographers and artists and by the many who approach the island from the sea, to be met by a harbor that is magical in its simplicity.

I think the above comment in italics is true, but only from afar. Reported by John and Sani that the town is pretty shabby with buildings falling apart and needing care, and upon closer examination, the harbor though beautifully set naturally is in need of some upkeep!

Have opted to stay on board while John and Sandi go in and take photos. The weather is hot, muggy and clouding over, perhaps with the threat of rain later today. From the ship I can see the Fort and the Neo-Gothic Lourdes Chapel, both of which seem to be closed to travelers. At least those who have come back to the ship reported they couldn't get into either venue. The harbor and surrounding countryside from my veranda is beautiful - I'm content. My knees are particularly happy!

Prickly Pears grow in abundance from which a local liquer is made.

Dinner tonight was in the Colonnade, with a focus on seafood. The real winner for me this evening was the appetizer of lobster ravioli - could have made a meal from these!!

I was very happy to find an old "friend" on the special wine menu, so we had that and reserved the last bottle for another night.

Friday, September 1 - Valetta, Malta

Valetta is the capital of the island nation of Malta and was one of the earliest sites inscribed by UNESCO on the World Heritage List. Geographically, it is located in the South Eastern Region, in the central eastern portion of the main island of Malta having its western coast with access to the Marsamxett Harbour and its eastern coast in the Grand Harbour.

Approaching Valetta is like nearing a mighty fortress. Huge walls and buildings built with the definite intention of keeping those inside safe from invaders, which in fact, they have done. The history of this island defending itself against many German air raids during World War II is part of its proud legacy.

Though I've been here before, perhaps twenty years ago, it was important that I once again visit St. John's Co-Cathedral - a beautiful church! You might ask why "Co" before Cathedral - well, it's because this cathedral, together with the cathedral in Mdina (or Medina) which is the original capital of Malta, and is the shared seat of the local bishop.

From the port there is quite a walk to an elevator which will take you up to the main part of the city. It's a long walk to the lift, it's hot and muggy, I have old knees . . . so for 15 euros, we took a cab up to the top and walked the streets of Valetta. Our intention was to focus today on the Co-Cathedral.

There is so much going on in this church that it is difficult to describe. The floors are wall-to-wall tombs which hold the remains of past masters of the Knights of St. John, each one beautifully designed in different color stones, each with a message about the person entombed.

There are many side altars, each one different, ornate (really ornate!), and some so complicated in their design that it is difficult for one's mind to fully realize.

The Oratorio is filled with Caravaggio paintings, the one at the end of the room quite famous, and of course, I forgot to take a photo of that one. But, loved this one below so that's what you get!

The cross of St. John is everywhere, worked into many different designs throughout the church.

Dinner tonight was very special, and for me the best dinner I've had on this Seabourn cruise. We opted to pay extra for Chef's Dinner and Wine Pairing. I don't recall ever being offered this option in the past cruises on Seabourn.

Lime Marinated Crab Canneloni, red radish and grapefruit dressing

Cream of Celeriac Soup, olive, artichoke crisp

Pan Seared Scallop, etuve of carrot and leeks julienne, noilly prat espuma

Raspberry & Champagne Sorbet (palate cleanser)

Pan Seared Beef Tournedo Rossini (more like a filet),

pomme rissole, king trumpet mushroom, Madeira & truffle jus

Chocolate Surprise

Saturday, September 2 - Giardini, Naxos,(Taormina), Sicily, Italy

Giardini Naxos, a picturesque setting, a seaside resort strung along a wide bay below the famous mountainside resort of Taormina on the eastern coast of Sicily. Although the little town is not particularly elegant or exciting, it's a cheery place in the tourist season, with superb views of Taormina and the Sicilian hills.

The mountain is smoking!!

I stayed on the ship (pacing myself - knees are grateful!) while John and Sandi went up to Taormina. Thought the town was so picturesque and worth the trip up the hill by taxi.

A quiet day. John was tired after Taormina and decided to skip dinner, so Sandi and I once again had room service as we sailed through the Straits of Messina. . . and enjoyed a lovely bottle of Tignanello (Antinori). The movie was such fun and older than me - It Happened One Night with Clark Gable and Claudette Colbert. If you haven't watched it in a while - it is charming and refreshing entertainment!

Sunday, September 3 - Amalfi, Italy

The Amalfi Coast is stunningly beautiful, with its steep sloped lemon tree gardens, colored terrace houses, stunning views and azure sea. It is southeast of Naples starting from Sorrento stretching almost to Salerno. Along the coastline you will find places like Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, etc., each of them uniquely beautiful with much to offer.

Words cannot describe the beauty of this coast - it's the stuff of dreams and storybooks. I've been here several times, and am still and ever awed by the scenery. Cannot stay on the ship today, so am going ashore with my cane!!

John climbed the myriad steps of St. Andreas Church. Have done that and the horror of coming down those steps again without anything to hold on to was too scary to contemplate! It looks like you can hold on to the sides, but people sit there, so you have to move out into the middle to continue the journey . . . no way!

Biggest lemons you've ever seen!

Lots of beautiful ceramics here in Amalfi. I'd seen some that sparked my interest, so ditched Sandi and made a couple of purchases, one for her and John as a housewarming gift. These two pieces will be arriving late September!! Really happy with the choices.

Dinner tonight at the Thomas Keller Grill. Again, some of the same annoyances. Most of the food is just okay. I do so hate it when I put this in writing, but trying to be honest. Began with the requisite Caesar Salad - there's nothing like it!! Delicious.

Crab Cake - good reviews from Sandi.

Golden Tomato Gazpacho - really wonderful!

Korobuto pork - rather bland, sat in front of me without the sauce

for quite a while and looked naked!

Lasagne Bolognese - looked good but had no flavor!!

John's entree was the clear winner - Rib Eye Steak - cooked to perfection and so tasty!

Tried the deep fried Brussels sprouts and they were again so oily as to not be edible. Enjoyed another bottle of the Tignanello from Italy.

Monday, September 4 - Civitavecchia (port of Rome), Italy

Second largest port in Europe, after Barcelona. If you're coming to Rome by ship, you have approximately a one and a half hour ride into the city.

We had one of our best days today. Opted to do an outing at a farm house in the rolling hills above Civitavecchia - Poggio Nebbia Farm. It was a great choice! Not just an outing, but a cooking experience learning how to make fresh pasta and more. And, we got to eat what we cooked!

There were seven of us on the tour and personalities meshed well for a really fun day. First on the agenda was to make "cream", like a custard. The recipe was simple - for each person you are serving:

Part 1:

1 egg yolk

1 heaping tbs. granulated sugar

1 level tbs flour

3/4 cup of milk

As you add ingredients, always stir in one direction, otherwise you get curdled cream!

Then cook over low heat until thickened and bubbly. Set aside to cool.

Part 2:

1/2 apple, cored and peeled and cut into 1/2 inch chunks

Add lots of cinnamon

Add sugar to taste

Add cherry liquer (can substitute other fruit liquer if preferred)

Some water (don't know exact amount)

Part 3:

Get already made sheets of puff pastry.

Add cream and top with cooked apples

Close puff pastry around filling, as artfully as you'd like - any shape.

Sprinkle with granulated sugar

Bake in 180 Celsius oven

Serve Hot or Cold.

And, there you have Saccottino with Apple and Cream pictured below prior to baking.

Pasta making was really fun. Here's an assortment of photos showing different stages of prep.

Whole egg in a well of durum wheat flour (Semolina)

Work until egg disappears and knead with heel of hand

to get this beautiful soft mound of pasta dough

Roll out pasta to desired thinness - more thin, more delicate the pasta

Accordion fold the pasta and cut into tagliarini

Open cut pasta strips and toss with a little semolina flour.

Everyone's pasta put onto a tray ready for the pot of boiling water.

Anna, the owner/chef, made the ragout which she referred to as a quick bolognese and which only needed to cook a couple of hours. She began with a finely chopped soffrito (onions, celery and carrots), added maybe three pounds of ground beef (didn't brown it), four quart jars of her own tomato sauce, salt and pepper (tons of both) . . . and that was it! I asked if she added milk and she said no self respecting Italian would ever add milk!! The official recipe for bolognese does indeed have milk . . . but ragout - not!! No mushrooms or herbs . . . and she said never garlic!

Here's the finished product, plus the platter of antipasto cheeses and meats. A wonderful meal was enjoyed by all, accompanied by a wine made on the farm.

The Poggio Nebbia Farm is very beautiful and quiet. Its simplicity is calming and I can understand why people come from the city of Rome to have a quiet reflective time there. Often, guests help with harvesting grapes and doing general work on the grounds. The farm harvests its own honey, makes jams from fruits grown on site, has a good selection of wine from grapes harvested and made there, and olive oil. The olive oil has a wonderful aroma. I bought some to give as a gift to a friend when we get to Mallorca next week.

When we got back to the ship, I was really tired and so full of pasta that I opted to skip dinner and was in bed early.

While we were up in the hills making and cooking pasta, tons of people were disembarking the ship, and tons more were embarking. There will be lots of new faces tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 5 - Golfo Aranci, Sardinia

The Seabourn Pursuit is anchored just a ways from our anchorage. She is very pretty!

I know one of the sommeliers aboard the Pursuit, so emailed her and suggested we swim out for a meeting! She emailed back that she was unable to leave the ship, but it was a fun exchange. Later in the morning the Cruise Director, Jan, told me that she'd asked head office at Seabourn if she'd be able to take a few guests over to the Pursuit, but the request was denied. It would have been very nice to see the newest ship in the Seabourn fleet.

Had a very quiet day today while John and Sandi walked around Golfo Aranci. Caught up on my journal, met some new people on the ship and had a good visit, flunked Trivia, and am now getting ready to meet John and Sandi for cocktails prior to dining at the Colonnade - tonight's theme is Thai.

Green Curry Chicken

Pad Thai with Tofu

The view from our dinner table

Dinner was pretty good - I'm not a Thai officianado, so can't really gauge the quality. But, it was tasty and we had a perfect evening sitting outside at the back of the Colonnade.

Played a little blackjack in the casino after dinner, but the cards were not favorable, the the company at the table was a little too raucous for me - spoils the fun of losing your money!!!

Wednesday, September 6 - Ajaccio, Corsica, France

Ajaccio, town and capital of Corse-du-Sud department, Corsica region, France. It is a Mediterranean port on the west coast of the island of Corsica. Napoleon's birthplace, Maison Bonaparte, is now a museum as is the town hall. The economy rests largely on tourism, but there is some light industry including the manufacture of aeronautical components.

In other information I gathered on the internet Ajaccio has a very good museum that holds some historical art treasures by Titian, Michelangelo, etc. Also of interest but one should get up very early, is an outdoor market in Foch Square.

Offerings from the outdoor market

We were supposed to be anchored off the coast of Ile-Rousse today, but the anticipated winds would have made tendering ashore difficult and possibly dangerous. So last evening, Captain Karras announced that there would be a change of plans and this would be the new port for the day. Additionally, we would be able to dock - always better in my mind.

The ship is moored with its back facing the city which means that from my veranda, I have a grand view. My knees took one look at the hills and decided to stay on board.

My family photographers are off on their own and will probably be back in time for lunch at the patio grill. Meanwhile, am catching up with some computer chores, and enjoying my Aperol and soda. FYI, most guests drink Aperol Spritzes, but those are made with champagne instead of soda. It's too much for me, and I'd need a nap prior to lunch!

Dinner tonight in the Colonnade - an "ad hoc" dinner inspired by Thomas Keller, and served family style. Sandi decided to skip the meal and get mega rest tonight, so it was John and me. The menu consisted of ribs, baked beans, cornbread, a salad with green goddess dressing, and a dessert of blueberry cheesecake. Best of the dinner was the salad.

Nothing memorable or worthy of photos!!

There are fresh flowers in my suite - two bouquets!

Thursday, September 7 - Portofino, Italy

Portofino is an Italian fishing village and holiday resort famous for its picturesque harbor and historical association with celebrity and artistic visitors. It is a commune located in the Metropolitan City of Genoa on the Italian Riviera. The town is clustered around its small harbor and it known for the colorfully painted buildings that line the shore. One of the most popular resort towns on the Italian Riviera, little Portofino has just over 500 permanent residents, but that all changes on summer days when the sun is shining, and the yachting set drops anchor in the harbor to wander about.

To the south of Portofino, along the coast

I'd so looked forward to our stop in Portofino. The first and last time I'd been here was in 1980 . . . that's a long time ago. I remember it as a beautiful small harbor with a few mega yachts, local shops, and a particular favorite ice cream that I've only seen in Portofino . . . "paciugo". That's a nice Genoese word, meaning a mixed up mess. In all the years since that original visit, I've never forgotten the ice cream that was made from many flavors. Imagine lining up in a long bin, all of your favorite flavors (at least 25!), running your scoop across the whole mess and plopping that into a cone - every bite is a different taste adventure!

So, when I saw the signs for the "original paciugo" got very excited - we ordered three in cups. Much to our consternation, the lady began cutting up fresh fruit and filling the ice cream cups with strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and blueberries. Then to top it off a small scoop of vanilla ice cream (very good vanilla!) was placed over the fruit, and what should have been a guilty pleasure, turned out to be a healthy and cooling disappointment. They say you can never go back again - how true!!

Additionally, we'd hoped to get a taxi to go over to Camoglie, a mere four miles from Portofiino. Camoglie has the very best focaccia in all of Italy and I remember it from 1987. It is said that there is no one in Camoglie who doesn't have oil stains on their clothing from eating the delicious focaccia!

Google said it was an easy trip and would cost 18 to 22 euros. Besides the taxi drivers being non responsive with our getting information, those that did answer our question as to the fare, quoted 100 Euros, each way. Though I was hoping to get some focaccia and bring it back to the ship for others - it was not to be.

The actual port is quite small

John taking care of Mama

Seabourn Sojourn at anchor

By the time we'd walked this little jewel of a port town, and discovered it had been taken over by Dior, Balenciaga, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneto, and more high-end shops, the town became filled with tourists (all wearing little yellow stickers with numbers) and tour leaders carrying their signs with corresponding numbers. There was hardly room to move. Compare that to when Adolfo and I were here in 1980, and we were the only two people walking around . . . and eating the real "Paciugo"!!

Came back to the ship, had a swim, was joined for lunch by John and Sandi who'd stayed ashore longer than I. A nice long nap and we looked forward to dinner in the Thomas Keller Grille. Would there be any noticeable changes?

The food was somewhat better, but still they're having trouble with deep frying the Brussels sprouts - still too oily. Mac and Cheese is much improved. I ordered the rib eye steak this time and it was delicious. Along with our meal we tried a new (for me) wine from Chateauneuf du Pape - a real winner!! One hundred percent Granache and 15% alcohol - a big wine! So delicious that I ordered a second bottle and we sat long at our table savoring a wine that I probably won't find in the United States . . . but perhaps . . .

After writing this, I searched the internet and indeed I can get that delicious wine shipped to me from the an east coast purveyor who has it in stock - will do so on my return home.

Friday, September 8 - Monte Carlo, Monaco

Monte Carlo is not the capital of Monaco, but a neighborhood (some neighborhood!). The country is divided into nine neighborhoods: Monaco-Ville (the old city, built at the rock), the La Condamine (port quarter) Saint-Devote (ecclesiastical area), Monte-Carlo (business and recreation), Fontvielle (business and recreation), Larvotto (beach residential area), Garden Exotique (exotic garden residential area), and Moneghetti and La Rousse residential areas.

Tried to find out what is the capital of Monaco - there isn't one! Monaco is a city/state. The largest quarter or neighborhood is Monte Carlo, and that is where most businesses reside.

Am giving my knees a rest today. The kids are off discovering Monte Carlo. Am sitting in my suite looking at all of the high rise buildings (more under construction) and mega yachts - amazing.

The ship is here until 11:00 p.m., so many guests have taken advantage of long tours and/or dining ashore. I love the ship when most people are ashore!

One of the ships seen today is that which belongs to Bernard Arnault (photo below). Doing the research, the cost to maintain this mega yacht is $30 million annually - believe that includes all costs including full time crew and berthing fees.

$150 Million yacht belonging to Arnault - "Symphony" -

biggest yacht ever built in the Netherlands.

We dined at Earth and Ocean on the Pool Patio. Always consistently good food. An early night for all of us!

Saturday, September 9 - Cavalaire-Sur-Mer, France

Cavalaire-sur-Mer is a small town in the south of France, located in the Var department of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region. It has a population of about 7,000 people, but attracts many more tourists in summer, who come to enjoy its long sandy beach and its lively marina.

St. Tropez is just over the low range of mountains and because we missed that port on account of bad weather, some guests will be going there today. John and Sandi did consider it, but then instead signed up for a ride around the bay in one of the ship's small zodiacs. Took their photo from my veranda.

Sandi on the left and John on the right of Sandi, trying to find me while shading his eyes!

They came back to report that they saw lots of water and a really long beach. Then they decided to take the tender ashore and do a bit of walking on that long beach.

This is one stop that I'd looked forward to exploring, but sadly, am saving my knees for the upcoming travel and plane connections. Am exercising daily, and have found that swimming easily in the cold water pool aboard ship is beneficial for a few hours.

On their return to the ship they presented me with a wine bag. Look what they found - and the ship is currently out of stock!

Received a note last night that because I've reached a Seabourn travel milestone, I'll be presented with an award at a Seabourn Club cocktail party on the 11th - hope it's not too big to put in the suitcase! That happened once before and I was able to exchange the gift for something small!!

Chef's Dinner and Pairing tonight so we decided on the spur of the moment that we would indulge.

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare (wasabi, lemon confit, soy)

Creamy Mushroom Soup (porcini foam)

`

Poelle of Saint Jacques (black bean puree, tomato and chorizo foam)

Lemon Sorbet with Champagne Topping - Palate Cleanser

Veal Oscar (truffle mash potato, white asparagus, broccolini, hollandaise sauce)

Hazelnut & Pistachio Delice

Sunday, September 10 - Sete (Montpellier) France

Sete is a major port city in the southeast French region of Occitaine. It is bordered by the Tang de Thau, a biodiverse saltwater lagoon. Across a narrow isthmus, Seth's Mediterranean coast is lined with sandy beaches. This is a most fascinating small town on the French Mediterranean coast precisely because it doesn't go out of its way to be charming. It doesn't have the time.

We are docked right in town, so it's an easy jaunt off the ship and onto the mostly level streets. After the glitz and glamour of Portofino and Monte Carlo, this town feels real. Locals shopping, carrying fresh bread, many carrying goodies from the bakery Francois (can't remember the rest of the name) - apparently they have bakeries all over France. Had to go there just to see what was so popular.

It's a great shop making fresh cakes with some dried fruit and some with chocolate bits. Brought one back and we had it for dessert at lunch - it's sort of like France's answer to Italian panettone. Quite good and not too sweet!

Then on we went poking into little shops, some with tons of canned sardines, herbs, peppers. The battery on my telephone was wearing down.

Sete is often compared somewhat to Venice, as there is a canal coming through the middle of town. It's really pretty.

But the best part of the day was finding the local market where individual vendors sell their goods - everything from soup to nuts. Visually it is a feast for the eyes, to say nothing about the aromas coming from the foods. Found a small round of goat cheese, crusted in mustard seed, pepper corn, dried tomato - oh my - best thing I've ever tasted (today!). That was our lunch with a bit of fresh French bread from the ship's ovens and a glass of red wine. The cheese cost 8,20 euros - it would probably be $30+ at home - if one could even find it!

In the evening, watching all of the pleasure and fishing boats come in to the harbor just before sunset, there wasn't one large yacht . . . just small boats, some zodiac style, loaded with family and friends having enjoyed the water and sun for the afternoon. I could come and stay here for a while, but then there's the language issue!

With the day and time differences between here and America, I think this is the night we watched the 49ers trounce the Steelers. John managed to find a live feed on my computer.

Later that evening while we were deciding what to order for dinner so we could continue watching the game, I received a notification from American Express that my platinum card had been breached, and there was a $122,000 charge pending. PANIC!!! I called Amex, and I have a new card coming when I return home. Meanwhile, I was assured that I could use my card while traveling home. I should have told them to expect a charge from Seabourn just prior to my leaving the ship. Yes, I should have!!!

What is funny, is that upon closer examination of the pending charge, it is in Indonesian dollars, so the cost to me would be about $8.00!! In the next couple of days, there will be more on this . . .

Monday, September 11 - At Sea

Today we have signed up for a Sommelier's lunch with wine pairing. The emphasis was on white European wines, with the only reds being offered for the entree. They served a Pinot with the fish, and a lovely red from the Mendoza region in Argentina, with the beef.

Poached Lobster Tail (caviar creme fraiche, crispy prosciutto, crispy parmesan

Pan Seared Foie Gras (plum chutney, brioche)

Spinach and Ricotta Crusted Beef Tenderloin

(pomme fondant, king trumpet mushroom, thyme jus)

Truffle Brie Cheese (berries compote)

The cheese course was accompanied by a very old Port (sorry, no photo). The blend of flavors was terrific.

Tuesday, September 12 - Valencia, Spain

The day is a really hot and muggy one! Sandi not feeling well, getting the cold that John had earlier. I stayed in and began my packing, because tomorrow we have a full day. John went in to the city alone and took photos.

The port of Valencia lies on Spain's southeastern coast, where the Turia River meets the Mediterranean Sea. It's known for its City of Arts and Sciences, with futuristic structures including a planetarium, an oceanarium and an interactive museum. Spain's third largest city is a magnificent place, content for Madrid and Barcelona to grab the headlines while it gets on with being a wonderfully livable city with thriving cultural, eating and nightlife scenes.

Our mooring at sunrise.

The last time I was here, what I remember is the many jacaranda trees, and at that time they were all in full bloom creating a beautiful sea of purple trees as far as the eye could see, and even dropping their blooms on the ground so one could walk on a purple carpet!

Today, got a call from Guest Services, that they couldn't process my Amex - UGH! Asked them to please try again and remind them that I was told that my card could be used until I got home. I should have called Amex myself!! At any rate, I heard nothing further from Guest Services and assumed that all was okay.

Wednesday, September 13 - Palma de Mallorca, Spain

The city of Palma is more attractive than ever thanks to careful city planning and extensive renovation measures in the old town (Casco Antigua). The so-called "pearl of the Mediterranean" offers a vibrant lifestyle by day and night, brimming with Mediterranean flair, which attracts millions of visitors each year.

Today am meeting a friend that I met on last year's Goldring Culinary and Cultural Cruise. Jacky McN. is from Scotland, and just exudes happiness and joy. She's is so much fun to spend time with, besides being just plain smart and nice, and possessing a great sense of humor.

When I saw Palma on the itinerary, I remembered that Jacky mentioned that she had an apartment in Mallorca where she spends some time. After texting her, we realized that we could make it work. She would be in Mallorca and had the day free. We would meet at a designated spot, but as we were crossing the street having exited the ship, she drove past the cruise terminal - how fortuitous! Sandi still not feeling well enough to go with us today, but so happy that John could meet my friend. . . . and we had a lovely day!

Jacky took us out of town about 30 minutes to a five-star hotel, Cap Rocat, where we would lunch on the cliffs overlooking the sea. An incredibly beautiful spot.

The hotel is built in and around an old fort. The new additions are perfectly designed and created so as to blend completely with the older parts. The stone work is incredible, with many different designs. Mallorca is especially known for its unique stonework. I could certainly stay here for a while, except for the fact that Jacky informed that the rooms begin at 2000 euros a night!!!!

Our lunch was stupendous, and we ate way too much, especially since we had dinner reservations at TK Grille at 6:00. We were ending our vacation with a bang! We savored salmon tartare over avocado; eggplant with soft mozzarella, that uniquely tasty Iberico ham (made from black pigs/boars here in Mallorca) and then came the lobster with paella smothered by a fried egg, and even another dish . . . squid over a bed of spinach and corn, and topped with skinny fried onions. All super delicious. It was too hot to drink wine. Below is our view from our lunch table. Note: The Iberico ham is served with the crusts of French bread, spread with olive oil and fresh tomato - think we might just do this with prosciutto!!

Jacky took home leftovers!!!

Thursday, September 14 - Barcelona, Spain - Going Home

All good things must come to an end . . . today we disembark the ship and head for the airport to begin our voyage home. John and Sandi are flying United to Washington, DC, and then on to San Francisco. I flying to SFO by way of Munich on Lufthansa.

Two large suitcases already picked up last night and I will claim them when I disembark this morning.

John and Sandi came up to my room so that John could tote my two carry-ons down the stairs (Remember? No elevator to Deck 10!). We were ready to leave the ship.

As we left the ship and our room cards were scanned, up popped a message that Jeanne was to report back to guest services and could not leave the ship. Amex had not come through and Guest Services had waited until the eleventh hour to tell me. We waited 30 minutes at the desk while my Visa was okayed. Am fairly certain that the awful wi-fi they have on board has something to do with the delay, but this is not acceptable.

Wi-Fi finally responded and I was free to leave the ship, but not before John encouraged them to throw me in the ship’s brig so that he could take photos!!!

We claimed our luggage and went to the waiting transfer van. Got to the airport in a few minutes. John made certain I was in the correct line at Lufthansa to check in to my flight and they proceeded over to United for their flight.

The couple ahead of me in line had all their documents on their Apple phones. Now, that’s fine, but if you can’t find the documentation for check-in – well, that’s not fine. Now you see why I do printouts of everything when I travel – just not that swift with my phone!! It took them nearly 40 minutes to check in.

My turn, easy, got my boarding passes for flight to Munich and connecting to SFO. Trotted off to the designated part of the terminal, and then got an email that the gate had been changed. Got up and began walking quite rapidly in another direction, but could not get to the proper part of the terminal. I was blocked at every turn. “Access Denied”.

For nearly one hour I tried to get to the right gate. Had help from security and assorted other persons who looked official and when I finally realized I’d missed my flight, began to look for alternatives. Someone told me to go to the fourth floor ( there isn’t one!) to the Lufthansa offices, but I was finally directed to Ground Force. This is where you go when you’ve missed a flight and have to re-ticket. Was so lost that a security person took pity and escorted me to the proper elevator and from there I finally found Ground Force. Don’t know what it’s called in other airports, or if this is a universal name.

The airport was hot, my knees were hurting, and I was dripping sweat (not perspiring or glowing!). My hair clung in a wet mess and I thought I might not ever travel again, or perhaps when my family heard about my travails, they’d forbid me to travel solo.

At Ground Force, two lovely people helped me, even after the lady realized that I’d been ticketed with Lufthansa through United, so she couldn’t help me right the ticket. She did give me a telephone number to call United – which I did.

United had nothing for me that afternoon or the following day that didn’t involve two connections, and only coach fare was available – UGH – couldn’t do that. And at the point that the United person said perhaps her supervisor could help me . . . I hung up! Are there some seats that are only allowed to be sold by supervisors?

While on the phone with United, I was also speaking with Monica at Ground Force, and asking if I could purchase a new ticket with Lufthansa, or some other airline that would get me home, business class. KLM was considered, but couldn’t complete the journey in business class. At the point I hung up on United, Monica came up with a flight at 6:20 tomorrow morning, connecting in Frankfurt to SFO. I dislike the airport in Frankfurt, as it is HUGE and is difficult to navigate but agreed. Beggars can’t be choosers! While she was completing the transaction a gentleman working with her got me a hotel room near the hotel and completed that for me – how nice. All I could think of at this time was a shower, a bed and a big glass of wine!

When all was completed, Monica escorted me (really nice) to the carousel where I would find my luggage, removed from the plane I was supposed to be on. I picked up my two bags and she stayed with me until I was out waiting for the hotel shuttle. She was so very nice and probably named for St. Monica, so I offered prayers to St. Monica in her honor, and insisted on a small remittance. She stayed with me for 45 minutes!!

Checked in to Hotel Melia. Hadn’t eaten all day so had the bellman take my luggage up to my room and went for lunch. Though I only ate one half of the club sandwich, I did have two Aperols and soda!

Looked at my telephone and in the airport, I’d walked 10,000 frustrating and sweaty steps!!

Friday, September 15 – Ground Hog Day - Going Home – Second Try

Up early this morning at 2:30 for a 3:15 shuttle to airport.

Been here, done this! Got to right gate and then searched for Pau Casals (Business Class Lounge) which was supposed to be very nearby my gate. Found it and had to wait outside until they opened at 4:30. I always thought those lounges were available all of the time. At any rate for 30 minutes there was some grumbling from many waiting and we were finally able to enter and relax a bit before boarding.

Found my gate, boarded and slept until we landed in Frankfurt. Traveling just isn’t easy any more. Know you have to go with the flow, but when one is already anxious. . . wishing things were smoother.

When we landed in Frankfurt, we had to wait for stairs to be brought to the plane. They didn’t come for a long time, and when they finally arrived it was at the back of the plane – I was in the front. The time was ticking and my window of time to board my connecting flight was getting narrower. . . . and how would my knees let me go down those stairs while carrying my two small pieces. The flight attendant just got right in there and took the heaviest piece and went down the stairs – God Bless Her!

I’m getting helped a lot this trip, and think it’s because I’ve let my hair turn gray – people are really nice to an old, grey-haired lady!!!!

At the bottom of the stairs there was an accordion bus waiting to take us to Terminal 1. But there must have been a traffic jam somewhere because we were stuck in that bus midway to terminal for almost 20 minutes. Finally alighting at Terminal 1 there suddenly appeared security who wanted to check all passports, manually, no scanning. Everyone dug into their purses and pockets to oblige security.

There were two more passport checks with very long lines before I finally got to Gate Z58. The first one took about 20 minutes and the second one . . well, the line was so long I would have missed my flight. Went to the front of the line to report that my flight was boarding and noticed that there was a sign hiding that specified Business Class . . . AHA!!! I tucked right into that line and was through security in about 10 minutes. Everywhere I could today I used the people movers, but am still curious to know how many steps I walked. (When I checked later, it was indeed another almost 10,000 steps day.)

Finally at the right gate and they HAD NOT begun boarding, but would begin in 10 minutes. Had to get the passport out again to board the plane.

But the fun was not over! I’m flying in a B747-8 (think that’s the correct designation). This plane has an upstairs business class. Guess where my seat is?!?!?! Had to climb the steep stairs with my two carry-ons. A nice young man offered to assist and I was soon in my seat being offered a beverage. Told the attendant I would gladly accept the strongest thing she had on that tray!! Perhaps two!

As I write this, we are an hour into our flight to San Francisco. Have been in touch with my driver advising the change in arrival, and he will be there to meet me. I should be home by midafternoon on Friday, September 15, just in time to start the laundry.

It’s been quite a trip. The longest I’ve done since Adolfo passed. Am looking forward to home and staying put for a while. Next trip planned is in January 2024, Australia and New Zealand. Until then . . .