Tuesday, January 10 - Home
One week prior to departure . . . . maybe . . . . "Maybe", because traveling right now is fraught with challenges. Have searched the web for places here where I can get an RT-PCR Covid test with certified results within 24 hours prior to boarding my flight (United requires this as does my destination - French Polynesia) next Saturday morning. That means ideally, I should get the test here midday on Friday and be assured that I will get the results prior to leaving for the airport the next morning.
To go to French Polynesia, one must be vaxxed and probably boosted (I am v'd and b'd!), and you must bring along a certificate showing you are Covid negative, ergo the required test day before departure. Then . . . when you arrive in Tahiti, you might be required to take another PCR test at the airport, at your own expense. Then . . . after an overnight at a hotel, I go to board the ship and will have to get an antigen test at the harbor prior to being allowed to go on to the ship - of course, the test must be negative!!
First call tomorrow morning will be to my doctor to get guidance. Stay tuned . . . more information will follow.
Next day . . .
Why didn't I do this sooner?!?!?!? Called my doctor's office. They have tests in office and I can get results within one hour. It will cost $250, but given outlay already for flights and cruise, this will be a good investment. Am scheduled for 2:00 p.m. on Friday. Level of anxiety has already lessened and I can begin choosing wardrobe for trip.
Have spoken with friend/travel agent this morning. Dress for this cruise, not only because it is not Seabourn, but because of location will be quite a bit more casual than previous cruises. Next question . . . can I get away with one suitcase??? That would be awesome!!!
Saturday, January 15, Intercontinental Hotel, Papeete, Tahiti
Well . . . since I'm here you can imagine that my RT-PCR test came in negative on Friday and I was given the go-ahead to close up the suitcases. Just one more hurdle, well maybe a couple more . . .
Arrived at the airport (SFO) on Saturday morning for my 11:50 a.m. direct flight to Papeete. Never saw the airport so empty - nice for a change. Presented all of the papers required by French Polynesia, my fax/booster card, my official certificate as to negative RT-PCR test and I was finally given the okay to travel - in fact there are two words on my boarding pass which the agent circled in red - TRAVEL READY!! Bags checked in. Boarded the flight around 11:00, take off pretty much on time, nice and easy flight to Tahiti, except for my window seat in business that had no window, and arrived a few minutes ahead of schedule. The plane was barely half full, especially the business section. Crew (United) was exceptional!!
The airport at Papeete doesn't have the usual portable passenger tunnels that connect up to the plane for debarkation, so we had to climb down the stairs into a humid, soft mist, and walk into the airport building. First we presented the French Polynesia papers which I'd acquired on line. Then, even after proving that I'd had the RT-PCR test within the required 24 hours for plane boarding, was sent to another line for another test which turned out to be TWO nose swabs - one for the short antigen and the other for a longer test. Although on the website, it had stated that we would have to pay for these tests, they were free. We then picked up our baggage and had to wait about 30 minutes in a line before we could leave the airport. This, so that if one of our tests proved positive, we'd be immediately put into quarantine.
Had company throughout this process because my friend and travel agent, Eric Goldring, was also on the same plane, headed to the same destination. We waited together until 7:25 p.m. when we could leave the airport provided our names had not been called. Had to giggle here a bit because while we waited, we were all herded into a small space with no attention to safe spacing!!
We shared a taxi to the Intercontinental Hotel, a really funky, old taxi, with a rather taciturn woman driver, unmasked, but with the windows wide open. Only a ten minute ride to the hotel where we checked in and then were driven in a raised, caged lorry (felt like I was in jail on wheels!) to our rooms for a quick refresh and on to dinner at the hotel.
We didn't want anything special, so went to the main restaurant, not the fancy one, and were so surprised by the food, both in presentation and taste. We had begun to wonder before we ordered because we felt invisible once we were seated. No one came to offer us water, a cocktail, wine, menus, etc. Finally it all came together. So worth the wait!!! Eric ordered a Ceviche, (top photo) and a white fish (middle photo) with some beautiful saucery magic on it.
Meka fish (photo just above) with smoked rosemary and Sukiyaki flavors. This was my dinner and if I come back here again, it will be the first thing I order - absolutely delicious!
Wine list here is interesting because all wine is French . . . go figure, French Polynesia??? I did miss some choices of my favorite Napa or Sonoma wines. Gave Eric the job of choosing a nice wine (he knows the French ones!) and we drank a pleasant French Chablis - perfect with our food.
Sunday, June 16, Papeete, Intercontinental Hotel to the Windstar Star Breeze.
Will let the photos speak for themselves. The first few photos are what I took from my balcony this morning when I woke - what a beautiful view!
After a really good night's sleep woke to another overcast day, but with warm and balmy breezes. Could have gone swimming, but decided it would be too much work to wash and dry my hair afterward (have to get my priorities in order!). So gingerly walked over to breakfast. I use the word "gingerly", because on the plane must have stayed in one position, with my ankles crossed, for far too long and tweaked my left knee. It hurts like a sore tooth and makes walking a bit difficult. Am hopeful that it will sort itself out within a day or two. Have done some soft stretches and though it still is sore, especially when climbing down stairs, think it might be getting better . . . ever the optimist!!
The grounds here are beautiful and so lush as one often finds in the tropics. This would be a great place for a family vacation. Huge pools, or you can swim in the ocean, or there is a lagoon where you can snorkel with the fishes (that indeed sounds better than "swim with the fishes!"). There are also bungalows that are out over the water and if you order breakfast, a waiter brings the meal to you in an outrigger!!! I would love that!!! Although I do love Hawaii, this beats Hawaii!
When I arrived at the restaurant, which was packed inside and out, but open to the outside on one side, the beating of drums and singing could be heard, all getting me in the mood for Polynesian Paralysis! Entertainment while one eats breakfast is really cool . . . dancing, singing, chanting . . . what fun! While watching the native entertainment, I enjoyed some really fresh fruit, and a bit of crispy bacon - that's all I wanted. A good cup of coffee, a glass of water and I was good to go!! Also so enjoyable was seeing all of the local families gather for this wonder buffet breakfast on a Sunday morning.
Don't know if this buffet with entertainment is every day, or just special on Sunday mornings. With regard to the buffet, when you get in line, you take a pair of tongs and/or a serving spoon and keep that with you until you have finished your choices. Then you put the used utensils into a bowl for washing up! Quite a good way during the pandemic, not to have utensils used by multiple people.
Eric has arranged for late checkout for both of us, so we can stay in our rooms until 12:00 noon when we depart for the ship. As I write this it is 11:00 a.m. Will try to get a few more photos into my blog and then get my luggage ready for pickup.
So anxious to see the Star Breeze, which was originally the Seabourn Spirit on which Adolfo and I took many cruises. The three Seabourn yachts, Spirit, Pride and Legend, were sold off to Windstar and have subsequently been cut in half, and a whole new portion added to the middle of the ship. Will try to find a link about these ships which I will include . . . when I find it!! Originally the ships had a capacity of 208 passengers, and now they have a capacity of 300. Love the small ships, so am anxious to be back on this one. There will be lots of memories for me.
Same Day - At the port. A few minutes in a taxi and we were at the port. Then the next check in. . . . should be used to this by now, but the anxiety never stops. We showed all necessary papers, passports, etc., were given a number, asked to fill out yet again another form and waited for our number to be called. Another Covid test was in our future. Once our number was called and nose swabs taken, we were told to proceed with check-in to the ship, tendered our credit cards and were escorted to our separate staterooms where we were to remain, sequestered, until the test results came in - approximately two hours. Only when we get a negative test result, will we be permitted to roam the ship, wearing the appropriate ribbon (turned out to be yellow) which shows we have been cleared. I have now had four Covid tests within 48 hours - ugh! On the up side, I am happy that so much precaution has been taken, though a little time consuming, the level of enjoyment on this cruise is increased because everyone seems really healthy!!! My stateroom is really beautiful. Most of the staterooms aboard this ship have French balconies - though you can get fresh air, one can barely step out on to the narrow ledge. However, with the overhaul of this old ship, there are a few suites that have full balconies. That was a requisite for me traveling on this ship - and bless his heart, Eric got me the Owner's Suite. It is so large . . . I suppose silly because it's just me, but so comfortable. There's a full veranda with room for two chaises and a small table, living/ dining room combo, and a separate sitting room/bedroom. Tons of closet space and cabinets - actually more than I will need for this two week trip. The bathroom has both shower and tub, two sinks and separate toilet area. I really should throw a party!!
So, I've hunkered down in my suite, had a couple pieces of the sandwich they had waiting for me, (felt such virtue in skipping the cookies!) opened a bottle of champagne and awaited my negative test, and hopefully the arrival of my luggage so I can unpack. Windstar really is smart waiting to have luggage delivered because I could be already unpacked, get a positive test and then have to repack.
The doorbell just rang and a delightful young man, presented me with eight huge, fat strawberries dipped in dark chocolate - Windstar's compliments. I already have two here that they had waiting for me (trying not to eat them), so I sent them to Eric!!
The test results were very slow to come in as they had to be sent in batches of ten to a local lab and there were 170 boarding the ship. It took a bit longer than the anticipated two hours, but after almost four hours, the knock came to my door and I was handed the yellow ribbon to wear. until the ship left port . . . which was scheduled for 9:00 p.m. Free at last!
Met Eric on Deck 8 for some pre dinner wine . . . but wait . . . we first had to do the muster drill. On this ship we had to report to our muster stations. All stations are out on the pool deck. Just before the alarm sounded to report, there was a rain deluge and thereafter the downpours were intermittent. Thankfully, it did lighten up while we were at the drill outside. Soon over, we resumed our attention to the wine until we had dinner reservations to eat on the aft deck, outdoors at Candles.
I remember this veranda area very differently, and must say that the area is totally improved, especially because the usual walls and railings have been replaced by huge glass panels (about five feet high) which allows viewing from floor to sky - really beautiful!
Our table was set back from the edge near the glass panels and we were grateful as rain pelted down and others had to scramble to move out of the deluge.
Dinner was delicious. We both enjoyed a veal chop, done to perfection, served with sides of asparagus, broccolini and onion rings. All delicious . . . and preceded by a Caesar salad (rather anemic both in visual appeal and taste) but the entree made me forgive the salad! We enjoyed a beautiful Merlot by Duckhorn (Three Palms) - really super! NB: Once you've had the Caesar salad aboard Seabourn in the Thomas Keller Grill, it's difficult to find one that can compare!
Early to bed - a really good night's sleep. Have also forgotten that these smaller ships truly have you believing you are on the ocean and movement is much stronger than on Seabourn's Odyssey class ships. Felt like a baby in a cradle!
Monday, January 17 - Day at Sea
We rocked and rolled throughout the day. Skipped breakfast because I wanted to enjoy the choices from the smoker for lunch. This is new on this ship. The smoker is always operating and today's fare was a gorgeous smoked rack of pork (about 18 hours in the smoker). John and Stephen, please take note. You have to try one of these!!! Along with the meat I had a choice of a lovely salad bar, which was served when I pointed to my choices. Felt that given the options, I showed great restraint. Eric on the other hand enjoyed the pork, the chicken, and then a hamburger! So envy his metabolism!!!!
Took a three hour nap this afternoon, missed the party on deck, but finally woke and met Eric for dinner on deck. Cuadro is a tapas restaurant here on the ship, but because it is a small venue, they have ceased doing dinners in the restaurant, but serve out on the open deck. In this weather, for me, this is ideal. So tapas, it was! We tried all of the tapas and shared them. One of the choices was octopus - really good. Then each ordered the same entree.
In my travels of late, I have tried to eat and drink things outside of my comfort zone. Tonight was a true test. One of the entrees was bacalao - dried cod fish (or "bacala" in Italian), which as a child I abhorred. When it was cooked in our home, always tried to get out of the house so I wouldn't have to eat it - I always failed. The odor alone was enough to make me gag. However, when I saw it on the menu, and I hadn't smelled it at all, decided to try it. Wonderful! The fish was mild, sweet and covered in what they called a "pill pill" sauce - a dark green pureed concoction of parsley and herbs (and though they said not, I still think there was some spinach in it!). It was served on a bed of marinated artichoke hearts. Along with our Chateauneuf du Pape red - what a heavenly meal.
For dessert I had a boozy almond cake with chopped apples that had been soaked in something wonderful. Such a tasty cake - like eating a light and fluffy marzipan creation. And you know what? Didn't take any photos! Too busy eating all of the good food.
Ate overlooking the pool area - the colors mystify me - but have been told it’s pure Miami!!!
An early, well, not so early night, and another good night's sleep. I had to be up early tomorrow morning for a getaway to a local beach to swim and snorkel. If you've read other blogs you will note that I'm not going to the Casino after dinner - 'cause there isn't one!!
Tuesday, January 18 - Fakarava, Tuamotu
Here is a rare opportunity to experience one of the earth's most beautiful and most rare places. Fakarava, a place so stunning, an ecosystem so diverse, it has been named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This diver's paradise welcomes you to a world of magnificent cauliflower coral, sleek dry sharks and neon schools of tropical fish.
Because my knee is still giving me fits, and even though I'm a strong swimmer, decided to go for "easy" outings. This was so easy and three hours was way too long to swim in water where I could always touch bottom. Thought the easy swim would help my knee and though it did appear to do that for a while, not certain that it worked.
The snorkeling area was so shallow and the coral appeared to have died, so fish were scant. But it was wonderful to soak in Tahitian waters. My difficulty was in getting out of the water. Needed the assist of a strong man's hand to help me up the incline onto the walkable sand.
Thinking that at 8:30 in the morning the sun wouldn't be too hot, (and it wasn't), and the sky was overcast most of the time . . . but this is the tropics and it soon warmed up.
Headed back to the ship on a tender for a shower and hair washing (will be washing my hair a lot on this trip!), and then up to lunch for a really small piece of chicken and some salad . . . oops, almost forgot the Caipirinha - so delicious. They don't have Cachaca (a South American liquor like grappa) on board so are making these drinks with rum - that will do nicely. Then another two hour nap, up to the spa for a mani and pedi where the clinician suggested I try some arnica for my knee. That was very soothing so I bought the product - they are so very clever! Then get ready for dinner - another at Candles.
Nothing like a bit of Aperol and soda at sunset!!!
We'd enjoyed the Chateauneuf du Pape so much the previous night, decided to have it again. This time I enjoyed a light and refreshing tomato and watermelon salad, rack of lamb, and sides of creamed spinach, broccolini and onion rings. A lemon tart finished off the meal and the tart this time had a crust on top like it had been torched (similar to creme brûlée). Really good - no Meyer lemon, but the real lemons!
And another good night's sleep. Am not going to any of the shows because when indoors, one must mask. Hate the masks even while understanding their use, so the shows, unless they are outdoors will be a miss for me.
Wednesday, January 19 - Tiputa, Rangiroa
Some people call this place heaven. You will call it perfect. The huge lagoon surrounded by beautiful coral and filled with colorful fish, rays and dolphins is a diver's dream. Explore, with an optional tour, in a glass bottom boat, take a dive that matches your level of expertise, or enjoy the magic of drift snorkeling. This is a place like no other on earth.
When I woke this morning, my knee was worse than day before, so I will not be snorkeling in the Green Lagoon at 1:00 this afternoon. Have turned in my tickets and also the ticket for swimming/snorkeling tomorrow. Will give this knee a rest for two days and perhaps pick up my tours on the 21st. That is really okay. Am on a beautiful ship, in Tahitian waters, temporarily living in a queen's suite. How lucky can I get?
Meanwhile, will see about a massage to loosen the knee. There was an acupuncturist on board but she has gone home. If she were still here, would even try that to get some relief.
So, am going to change directions here. Would like to do some comparisons between Seabourn and Windstar. These probably won't be the first, but it will get me started.
Guests: On Windstar, everyone seems so much more friendly. All kinds of people are speaking with me and helping me feel so very comfortable. On Seabourn, have often felt that I had to work too hard to begin relationships with other guests.
Crew: I miss the crew from all over the world on Seabourn, and their facility with the English language. Here most crew is from Philippines. Very friendly, English not so good, and accents plus double masking make it difficult for me to understand them. But, they are very sweet and accommodating.
Food: This is a difficult one for me. Perhaps because I always love the one I'm with - HAH! - would say for me that Windstar might have a slight edge. Food not fussy, but beautifully served, flavors bright. I do love Thomas Keller Grill on Seabourn and Sushi on Ovation and Encore - nothing to compare with that here on Windstar. However, the smoker here does give it a slight edge - perhaps it's just the novelty.
Wine List: Easily Seabourn would win this comparison for me - lots of Sonoma and Napa wines which I love, plus many others from around the world. But the wine list here on the Star Breeze is more than adequate and nothing overly priced. Most expensive wine so far was the Duckhorn Merlot (Three Palms) at $80. The Chateauneuf du Pape was only $40. . . . and with the all inclusive package, I get a 20% discount. Didn't see anything much over the price of Duckhorn. Lots of French wines. Seabourn wins with the really fine sommeliers on board and the wine tastings.
OH, NOOOOOOO! Just got a text from Eric that the Hotel Manager, Guenter (an old friend from Seabourn) has tested positive. Eric spent some time with him so he has been tested and is awaiting the result. Meanwhile he is isolated . . . now, Eric has been vaxxed and boosted and had Covid after all that in November. One would think he has sufficient antibodies . . . we shall see . . . . .
So . . . after sitting out on the Candles back deck and having a really nice breakfast I typed away on this blog and finally went back to my room at 11:00. Phone was ringing. Please stay in your suite, said the friendly voice, the doctor is heading your way. He's just been here, done another PCR test and told me to quarantine until I have the verdict. However, he did tell me that Eric is negative . . . so that's good. Eric spent quite a bit of time with Guenter, while I only had a passing conversation with him (and a hug!!!! . . . ooops). Should have the verdict in about two hours. Will let you all know when I know.
Stay tuned . . . If I do have to quarantine, this must be the best suite on the ship!!!
. . . several hours later . . . .
So much has happened in the last few hours. I tested negative, so that's good news, but everyone with whom Guenter has been in touch these last three days for any appreciable time, and Eric, who spent so much time with Guenter, has been asked to isolate. . . . and I spent time with Eric . . . THEN, the Captain, himself, called me to "request” that I isolate. Told him the "request" was not necessary - I would in fact voluntarily isolate for five days (well, heck! - maybe my knee will get better!). Captain wanted me to have his personal phone number - told him that wasn't necessary. THEN, the Hotel Manager, Milton, called me from isolation in his suite and we had a wonderful chat. Said they would do anything to keep me happy. Thank you, Milton! Note: Guenter is the Windstar Corporate Hotel Manager, and goes from ship to ship. THEN, I cancelled the remaining tours/swims I had scheduled for the next few days. THEN, Room Service called me and commiserated with me and wondered why I hadn't ordered lunch - so I did. One of the best chicken quesadillas I've ever tasted and a huge green salad with cucumbers, avocados and mixed lettuce - delicious! They brought the tray to a small table outside of my door, rang the bell and left. When I'm through, I put the empty tray back onto the little table and they pick it up. THEN, the doctor came to visit me again to do a bit of contact tracing . . . and just stayed on for a visit!! Doctor said this day would probably not count as Day #1 - bummer. So, if Day #1 is tomorrow, then they will begin testing us again on Sunday (Test #1), and perhaps we will be out on Monday (Test #2), if we also have negative tests. The countdown begins. So, here I am with a very full afternoon. Have opened a bottle of French wine that the Windstar Team sent me the other day with their complements. Not good - well, in all fairness, it just might be good, but I don’t like it. I won't be drinking it. It just might be time to order a caipirinha!! . . . or two, or three, or four . .
When I packed for this cruise, at the last minute I added some needlepoint projects. So glad that I did. Between the stitchery, Words with Friends, Jigsaw Puzzles I have on my iPad and some in-suite movies, the next few days should just fly by . . . you think? This reporting should be deadly boring the next few days, but will try to make it exciting . . HAH!
Thursday, January 20 – Motu Mahaea, Society Islands
YESTERDAY - I played with the remote of the TV and found not only a couple of decent movies (though not enough good ones), but discovered that the restaurants on the ship post daily menus – that’s convenient – and let you know if some restaurants will be closed. Some do not operate each and every day. Here is the Amphora menu - main dining room.
For lunch I ordered chicken wings from the smoker with a side of coleslaw. The chicken wings were so good, smothered in a pineapple glaze. So happy to be eating by myself because I had the sauce all over my face and hands (definitely a plus for isolation!). I would not have ordered these out in public! Should have shared that photo!!
Did a bit of needlepoint on my angel yesterday, and as you can see, Sofia, I’m making progress.
For those of you wondering about the angel, she will eventually be turned into a Christmas ornament and added to my tree.
Had a good dinner last evening. Ordered from the main restaurant, Amphora. Started with tender butter lettuce salad laced with pistachios and parmesan. Then a very tasty duck confit, served with carmelized endive, cauliflower and broccoli. Ordered a side of the truffle fries and though they were really delicious, only ate a few.
Ordered two bottles of wine – Ancient Peaks from Paso Robles and Zin from Ravenswood. Opened the Zin – it’s just okay, but drinkable (doesn’t that sound snotty?!?!?!).
Otherwise, the day was filled with Words with Friends, puzzles, answering emails and writing. Only four more days to go!!
The staff of room service are so accommodating and always calling to be certain that everything delivered is to my liking . . . and can they send anything else to me??? Am going to leave this suite big as a house!!!
Just before I retired last evening found that my toilet wouldn’t flush. Wonder of wonders, they were able to fix it without entering the suite . . . now working fine!!
THIS MORNING . . . .We are anchored off shore and will remain overnight. Believe that today was to be the Polynesian picnic on shore for all passengers on a private island. Sorry to miss that.
Today would have been a day to discover Taha’a which is often known as the “vanilla island”. There is a small vanilla plantation here and that is of particular interest to me because I believe vanilla beans grow from an orchid species . . . and you know of my love and interest in orchids! Could also have snorkeled where we might encounter stingrays and reef sharks.
There are over 110 varieties of vanilla orchids. Only one, Vanilla planifolia, produces the fruit responsible for 99 percent of commercial vanilla. Another genus, the Vanilla tahitensis is grown in Tahiti. Its fruit has a more pronounced aroma, but debatably less flavor. To produce the fruit, the orchid flowers are hand-pollinated at a specific time of the day when the flowers are open during a short flowering period. The fruit is not permitted to fully-ripen since this will cause the beans to split and lose their commercial value. Hand-harvesting occurs four to six months after the fruit appears on the vines. Once harvested, the green beans go through a treatment process that lasts another six months.
Vanilla pods growing on an orchid plant.
At any rate, I can see the lush shore with lots of palm trees and heavy plantings and am wishing I were not in isolation, but oh well, it could be worse . . . I could be sick!!!!
Just out on my veranda and spotted where I’m really supposed to be . . . in a zodiac going to the private island for a Polynesian lunch, snorkeling and touring!!!!! OH MY GOSH! There’s always a bright side! Picnic is just starting and it’s pouring rain . . . I may be isolated, but am dry!!!!
Ordered a hot dog for lunch, haven’t had one for almost two years. At my request, it was served with sauerkraut, onions and mustard. It was really delicious, but note the ratio of hotdog to bun - bun is way too long for hotdog! In the photo, you can see that I cut off the ends of the bun . . . so much better!
When room service called to check on my lunch, told him it was delicious, but that the bun was too long for the hot dog . . . sweet man on the other end of the telephone couldn’t stop laughing!!!
Then there’s this next hotdog – this is what John and Sandi shared while they were in Prague! Now, that’s a hot dog!!! Note the ratio of hot dog to bun!!!
Ship’s doctor just called me, and he is sending a nurse to do another swab. Asked if I had any symptoms to which I responded in the negative. Captain has instructed tests for Eric and me today and tomorrow. If both of those are negative, then they will release us from isolation. I reiterated that I’m content to stay in the room for the full five days . . . I can do no more. Doctor said if we are released on Sunday, then we should wear masks most times and often sanitize our hands. I can do that! Stay tuned . . .
Today they also begin testing all on board again.
The photo above was taken at about 6:30 p.m. from my balcony. There appears to be a bit of an island, except I can’t see much, if any, land. So it looks like the trees are growing right out of the water!
Dinner tonight was ordered from Amphora restaurant. Enjoyed the Sea Bream and Barramundi combo with a side of broccoli and cauliflower. The highlight was the starter of Mushroom Polpettini, served on a bed of soft polenta surrounded by a pesto oil – really tasty.
Just received a call that today’s Covid test is negative. If what they told us today still holds true tomorrow, we might be set loose tomorrow night if the next test is negative.
So, with this, will say Buona Notte – will send another silly journal tomorrow!!!
Friday, January 21 - Motu Mahaea, Society Islands
The ship is still in place here. We stayed overnight. This morning I woke, decided to skip breakfast, and then went back to bed for two more hours sleep! Well, what else was there to do.
Lunch was Chicken Satay from the smoker and a green salad. Good, light, and particularly tasty! I was sent a bottle of Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon, a Napa wine. Didn’t have to sign for it so assume it’s a gift from the Sommelier. Haven’t opened it yet because am hopeful that I’ll be out on deck later.
No photos today . . . maybe later. Right now the plan is for me to get tested once again at 5:00 p.m. , with hopefully, a negative result by 6:00 p.m. . . . in which case I might be allowed out on deck for the BBQ tonight. That would be nice, and if so, will take some photos.
Weather the last two days has been muggy, overcast, and with occasional showers.
I noticed today that none of the wine on the premium wine list has vintage year listed. Think this might be a big mistake. The two wines I’ve not been pleased with were both 2016, lower end in cost. I noticed that both wines had lost that wonderful plummy color of reds. This was not the case with either the Duckhorn or the Chateauneuf – nose, color and taste were wonderful. I don’t remember the years, though . . . but I do feel that better made wines have a longer shelf life, especially if they are properly cellared. Enough of that because I only know what I know, and that’s not much when it comes to wine! Know what I like and sometimes that’s enough knowledge!!!!
Doctor was just here, got swabbed again and was told that I would have, alas, one more test tomorrow morning. Everyone got tested today. Along with Gunter and the Hotel Manager, Milton, there are two crew members who have tested positive. All four have light symptoms and are doing well. I was told I could plan to take a tour tomorrow, but have elected to stay on board. Though following my last test tomorrow morning, it will be nice to have freedom to roam the ship and sit out on deck. Might just celebrate with a Ramoz Fizz, or a Bloody Mary, or maybe just a wonderful Mimosa! Will let you know!
Have opened the new bottle of wine – it’s very good – cellared by the Michael Mondavi Family, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon. “Napa County native and winemaker Tony Coltrin brings more than 40 years of winemaking experience to Oberon. Tony makes this Cab from an exceptional blend of Napa County grapes selected for their concentration of ripe fruit flavors and silky, supple tannins. Lush, lingering black cherry, dark berry and cassis flavors are complemented by warm spicy notes of toasted oak. Pair with steak, lamb and duck dishes, as well as flavorful cheeses.”
Just got a call from the Captain – quite nice, but not necessary. Thanked me for my cooperation – DUH!!! Why wouldn’t I cooperate? If you want to travel in these times, either be prepared to be cooperative, or stay home!!! . . . . back to my wine . . .
Captain also assured me that weather would be much better for the remaining cruise, after tomorrow. Would assume that means that cloud cover might be gone, along with the intermittent showers
.
So I’ve ordered my dinner from the Deck BBQ menu which would be brought to my door. A little coleslaw, some roast suckling pig, a shrimp cocktail, and some paella. Then I got a call from “Junior” in room service (think that’s his name!). My dinner delivery was being delayed because there was something special coming. When it arrived, I was blown away because of the amounts of food – could have fed everyone in my family with what was brought to me tonight. Had my own buffet!!
A beautiful lobster tail was added over the paella – oh my gosh – way too much food!!
Well, that’s it for today. Will set my alarm and await the doctor at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow for, hopefully, my last test . . . at least until I get ready to depart the ship on Friday.
Saturday, January 22 - Bora Bora
Well, this has been a most interesting day. It began with doctor knocking on my door to do another test. I was to wait until he called me before I left my room, and indeed, within the hour, I had a negative result. I was free to roam, or to go on an outing, or to go ashore.
I chose to go to breakfast where a beautiful California Benedict was prepared for me, along with a Mimosa. Nice way to begin the day . . . and especially when staff greets you like you’re a long lost friend! They were so happy to see me, and others, around the ship – those who’d also been isolated for the last three and a half days.
After breakfast, went up to the pool deck where I sat and did stitchery, worked a bit on my computer (internet is very slow), had a bit of lunch from the smoker . . . and I mean a very little bit! . . . . and a Margarita!!
Back to the room for a nap that never happened, and shortly I will go meet Eric for dinner outside at Cuadro – the tapas dinners are really wonderful.
Meanwhile, the reason that I didn’t nap was that I checked some texts and then was wide awake!! Eric texted that Chris Prelog (President of Windstar) has invited both of us to remain on the ship for another week . . . OMG . . . yes or no?!?!?!? So, I’ve been making a list, have questions to ask of Eric, checked whether or not I could edit my hold mail from here (I can), checked meds to see if I had enough (just in case it’s a “yes”), etc. Will make a decision after dinner and include in this email before I send out.
There is one down side and it is really a small one. I have a very beautiful suite and will not be able to stay in it for the next week . . . oh well . . . guess I can tough it out!!!!!
After much discussion, and questions answered, we decideds to wait until tomorrow morning to make our decision. So you’ll have to wait until the next blog!!
Had a wonderful dinner accompanied by the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is the best yet! Rosie, you were correct – one can never go wrong with Caymus wines . . .
After a couple of tapa starters, we both had a pasta dish served with roasted chicken and mussels – really good. Will try to duplicate this when I get home.
Tomorrow I will snorkel the lagoon here in Bora Bora. Will be leaving the ship at 8:45 so can get in some snorkeling before it heats up!!
Sunday, January 23 – Huahine
It was truly a really nice evening on a little motu that is privately owned by Conrad and connected to the Hilton brand. Windstar got to use the beautiful little park for their event. Food was delicious, show was what was expected when you attend a luau type event, but the fire dancers were unforgettable with their extreme girth. As they drew the fire through their legs, twirled and tossed the flaming batons, one could only hold a breath hoping that no permanent harm would be done!!
There really are no words. . . .
BBQers!
Monday, January 24 – Huahine
This morning, it was an early start so I could participate in the snorkel/swim event at Huahine. This has been the best snorkel adventure so far. Tons of little fishies, some not so little, all sporting bright neon colors, and most (I was told) are a form of butterfly fish. And, best of all, no discernible current that kept taking me off course. We will be back here next week, and I will do this jaunt once again. The boat and crew that took us there and then to a little private beach for simple swimming were such fun – a great ukulele player on board with a specially crafted 8-string ukulele made here in Tahiti. Really pretty and nice sound.
Longest bridge in French Polynesia (only bridge in French Polynesia!) – maybe one block long, maybe one and one-half blocks long!! The fresh ginger blossoms decorated every pole on our tour boat – so pretty.
Eric is on a beach somewhere contemplating the waves. When I texted him that his favorite home-cured, home-smoked pastrami was up for lunch, was instructed to order that a plate be sent to his room for his 3:00 p.m. arrival . . . have been assured that it will happen! John and Steve, you would be so happy with the lunch offerings at the smoker . . . awesome!!! You would both probably request a tour of back of the house on this one!
After lunch, there’s only one thing on my schedule ‘cause that’s a lot of energetic swimming two days in a row, with fins on, trying not to touch the coral and battling the current! It’s nap time!!
Enjoyed another nice dinner with Eric. He ordered the Porterhouse, I ordered the mini filet! Enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Italian wine . . . a 2014 Amarone . . . really delicious! At Candles they have a really spectacular dessert . . . a lemon tart, made with really lemony lemons, not the Meyers. They torch it a bit on top before bringing to the table so it has a crunchy top like on Crème Brulee. Such a wonderful way to end a meal.
We then attended the crew talent show best described as “from bad to worse and from good to wonderful”!!! I know it takes real courage to get up in front of people to perform, but there are truly some who are tone deaf and shouldn’t be so brave. There was a good guitarist, a couple of pretty good singers, a funny barman juggling bottles, shakers, etc. - very clever. And of course, where would we be in a talent show without a reincarnated Elvis! What I loved most were the Indonesian crew, about a dozen of them, who did a traditional welcoming dance of their homeland. They had the rockiest start – three times – and then were on target with lots of moves, ups and downs, hands hitting the floor in rhythm, clapping with each other . . . but best of all they had so much fun performing . . . really wonderful! . . . and I almost forgot the Philippino with a ukulele who really believed he was a rock star – accompanied by the ship’s band that has two of electric guitars, keyboard and drums . . . and there he was up front wailing into the microphone and plucking away at his ukulele. So happy to have on a mask so I could giggle a lot!
And so, here’s to another wonderful day in paradise. So lucky to be here!
Tuesday, January 25 – Huahine
But wait . . . correction to yesterday’s blog: Bora Bora is sinking 1/500,000,000,000th of a millimeter annually – actually a huge difference, isn’t it?!?!?! (I seem to have lost a part of this blog because I cannot find where I stated the above data incorrectly. Don't know what I did this date! To quote the grandfather in the movie, Moon Struck . . . "I'm so confused . . ."
Wednesday, January 26 – Cook’s Bay, Moorea
Welcome to paradise, where your stunning surroundings soak up superlatives and call for more. In our stay here you’ll have plenty of time to do it all. Be sure to consider the opportunity to hone your photography talents on an optional tour of the island in the company of a professional photographer. Your choices here are endless. Hike the majestic Three Coconut Trail. Visit dolphins in their native habitat or spend your time swimming and kayaking, as we lay at anchor in these beautiful sapphire seas.
For me, this is the most beautiful anchorage of the cruise. The surrounding mountains and greenery take your breath away. Even though there is much to do here, have to pace myself, so am staying on board and taking it easy today. Have managed some really beautiful photos from the ship.
This area also seems to have the most traffic since we left Papeete – but even that is not too much. Buildings on shore appear more upscale than we’ve seen so far. Looks like there’s a fancy resort on the shore.
Head of housekeeping, Rafaella, and Jajat (pronounced “ya-yat”), my room steward, came to tell me not to worry about changing rooms tomorrow. They will prepare my new room for me first and then help me move all belongings down to the new room – from #640 to #634 – not too far!!
Lunch today was pulled pork sandwiches from the smoker served with an excellent sauce and a coleslaw of slivered cabbage and carrots in a peppery dressing – delish!!! That accompanied by a glass of Semillon from Walla Walla, Washington and it was time for another nap. Semillon was good, but can’t compare with the Semillon I’ve bought from Lambert Bridge winery.
Thursday, January 27, Papeete
We arrived back at Papeete for what would been the end of our cruise, but thanks to the generosity of Chris Prelog, we are extended for one more week. Most guests will be departing the ship. Coming on board will be lots of the Windstar execs, and a ton of travel agents. I got up early and quickly packed (actually threw stuff into cases!) my shoes and assorted clothing. Piled it all together in the middle of my living room. Left the clothing hanging in the closet as instructed.
After having breakfast, waited on deck for the rooms to be prepared for the following week. At 10:00 a.m. went down to find that all of my belongings had been transferred to my new room. It is so small – after the Owner’s Suite – but beautifully decorated and more than adequate – am so lucky! The bed is right next to the French doors so one can be relaxing on the bed viewing the beautiful scenery.
You can see the whole of the new suite in camera shot!!
While having lunch up at the Star Grill (pulled pork again was one of the choices – so good!) Chris Prelog arrived, together with others from the company. They all seem so very nice. This week should be great fun. Then, of course, another nap. Dinner out on deck while we watched all of the newbies go through the muster drill. Was introduced to a new drink which I really like – Appleton Rum and Tonic. Refreshing and they go down so easily!!!
And I must not forget . . . all during dinner, the Good Lord provided a lightning show that was beyond compare. The electrical action took place behind huge clouds, so they were lit up in a spectacular manner . . . and all around us . . . beautiful!
Friday, January 28, Cooks Bay, Moorea
A quiet day for me while I give thanks for this experience. Might actually do a little work cleaning up filing on my computer.
One bit of excitement for me . . . in all the years that I cruised with Seabourn on this ship, they had the ability to open the back of the boat for swimming and other water sports – while the ship was anchored out in the bay, rather than docked . Only twice did I have that opportunity and that was in Greece last August. Didn’t take advantage then, but today I jumped off the back of the boat and swam around. There were floats anchored to the ship. It was fun, though the current was a bit strong once you moved too far away from the protection of the ship. This opportunity has been offered almost every day during this cruise - so much fun!
Saturday, January 29 – Uturoa, Raiatea
Raiatea, “The Sacred Island,” is located just across the lagoon from Taha’a and shares the same barrier reef. Legend claims the two were a single island until a conger eel possessed by the spirit of a princess separated them. It used to be the center of religion and culture in the Society Islands. Taputapuatea, on the southeast coast, was once the most important marea around, the place where kings from the neighboring islands would gather for important ceremonies. Uturoa, the main town, reminds some people of Papeete in its younger days with its quaint low-rise buildings.
A very relaxing day today, slept off and on all day, only taking breaks for lunch and then dinner. Am wondering whether or not this might be a result of parsing out my vitamins (because I’ve stayed longer than originally anticipated). Tomorrow will have enough to take full doses until my departure later this week. Even with all of the napping got a good night’s sleep.
Last night was a repeat of the on deck BBQ which I missed because of isolation. It was wonderful even though we dove for cover as another rain storm came just as we were finishing our meal. The highlight was a beautiful roasted whole pig – so delicious. There’s so much that can be done with the two smokers down in the galley. The food that comes out of those ovens is really delicious.
Wouldn't the grand dog love this
Sunday, January 30 – Motu Mahaea (Taha’a)
As I write this am out on the back deck, or veranda, at Candles enjoying a breakfast al fresco. My usual breakfast is oatmeal, cinnamon, and blueberries . . . . and I can’t forget the Mimosa!
Today most guests will be going to the Motu picnic. It’s an all-day affair. There will be swimming, snorkeling, lots of picnic food, massages on the beach, etc. Sounds like fun, but the prospect of getting in and out of the zodiac to get there and back is daunting for me. Knee is still giving me trouble – probably because I don’t have enough Aleve with me! Ah, the challenges of traveling at an advanced age!!! But, worth it!!!!
I learned yesterday that I can take my iPhone into the water when I’m snorkeling! There is a special water tight case that seals in the iPhone, and you can take photos through the case. Cases are available in the gift shop aboard ship. Don’t know if I’m brave enough to risk my new iPhone. I can think about it until Wednesday, when I have my final snorkel adventure scheduled – a return to the Huahine jaunt. But it sure would be fun to get some photos of the fish I’m seeing!
Son, John, texted me a play by play of the 49er playoff game because it couldn’t be seen here.
Sorry that they lost.
My “alone” time continued into the evening. Decided to skip dinner (really, it won’t kill me to miss a meal!), watch movies (that are so old they are antique and some pretty awful!), and have an early night.
Monday, January 31 – Vaitape, Bora Bora
Your stay here will allows plenty of time to capture the beauty in photographs – and you’ll want plenty of them. These stunning waters will show a different kaleidoscope of blue in each frame. You’ll have lots of options for exploration, whether you prefer the access provided by a $X$, or the thrill of riding in the open air. Stretch out on stunning white sand beaches or dive and swim in brightly colored lagoons!
Went ashore for a little while. There is a large thatched-roof hut where locals come to show their handicrafts. Nothing extraordinary unless you wanted to pay $350 for a necklace made out of sea shells. Decided to enjoy the necklace I bought here many years ago – I have it with me and it’s more beautiful than anything I saw this morning!
That’s it for now - writing is pretty boring without the photos and without me taking advantage of all water sports . . . . But it’s really too bad that my sore knee does not affect my eating!!!!
Just saw Milton, the Hotel Manager. He’s finally out of isolation. He was isolated seven days after joining the ship (that’s usual for new crew), then worked the first two days of our cruise, then tested positive and was immediately isolated until today. That's a total of 20 days!!! However, there is no Covid aboard this ship at this time. Windstar’s protocols really worked and even though some of us who were negative had to isolate, it was well worth it! Additionally, the Captain made daily progress announcements which helped all on board understand – transparency is important. Why isn’t this hitting the headlines!?!?!?!
The grill aboard ship, and particularly the smoker recipes are designed by Steven Raichlen, who hosts the popular TV shows Steven Raichlen’s Project Fire and Project Smoke, Primal Grill, and Barbecue University on Public Television. He stars in three French Language TV shows and an Italian show, Steven Raichlen Grills Italy, which airs of Gambero Rosso. The author of 31 books, many of them award-winners, Raichlen wrote the international blockbusters: The Barbecue Bible, How to Grill, Planet Barbecue, and Project Smoke. He founded Barbecue University and has lectured on the history of barbecue at Harvard, the Smithsonian Institution, and the Library of Congress. The sauces used are also his, and are really tasty. They beat any BBQ sauces I’ve ever tasted. Available on Amazon - isn't everything!
February 1, Tuesday – Vaitape, Bora Bora
We overnighted here in Vaitape and today most guests will spend the day on the private motu where tonight we will once again go to the special luau and fire dancer show. Meanwhile, through the night it rained off and on, and there are overcast skies, making the colors of the water less intense. Am hoping for the rain and clouds to go away by tomorrow when I have my final snorkeling adventure in Huahine. Clear skies make for clear water and clear water makes for clear viewing of the colorful fish . . . here’s hoping!
Poor Eric . . . day before yesterday “lost” his iPhone. It has not turned up. To compound matters, this morning he was to helicopter around the islands . . . but alas, the helicopter broke. Such bad luck!!
This morning Eric and I have managed a personal tour of the galley (certain it’s because of Eric!). The tour will have special attention to the smokers. Will report back when we have the info!! Am seriously considering a smoker as an addition to my outdoor
Just completed the galley tour conducted by the Windstar Corporate Executive Chef, who is a delight and has a wonderful complicated and musical East Indian name. My interest was mostly the smokers, one of which was in operation. Great explanation as to how it works, and the gizmo that is put into the smoker with wood chips (all kinds of flavors depending on what they are cooking). I was wondering how this was accomplished especially since there should be no open flames on board cruise ships. This gizmo is electric, with a coil inside whereupon the wood chips are placed, then the gizmo closed and put into the smoker. So, you see, it’s really all electric . . . but the result is amazing. In further discussion it was ascertained that if I can get a certain different gizmo that can be placed inside my new BBQ, I can almost get the same result (but not quite) with my new BBQ . . . and some wood chips. That is my plan.
The brand of their smoker is Rational iCombo Classic. It’s not a Reichlen smoker, but the sauces and spices used are his. The smoker can be used as a regular oven, or as a smoker. All they have to do is hook up the exhaust.
To continue on with the tour, we were shown two different dish washers (both MAMMOTH), wherein only one is used for dishes, and the other for heavier pots and pans, etc. The different dishwashing cycles are completed in anywhere from under a minute to just over two minutes – quite amazing. There are fridges for every sort of food (and locks on most!), and temperatures are set for each category, i.e., veggies, cheese, ice cream, meat, fish, etc. The fridges are all locked and when something is taken from the fridge, there must first be a requisition and then the follow up on inventory so that always, provisions are kept up to date.
On these ships when they sailed under the Seabourn brand, I was never below Deck 3. This day, however, the chef then took us down to Deck 2 where their pantry is located, together with a special and separate locker for cleaning supplies. The “pantry” was amazing. Think about each time fresh provisions are taken aboard, the new provisions have to be put on the bottom of the pile so that the oldest is used first. That’s a lot of cases being moved around. Adjacent to the pantry goodies, but separated by bars looking like a jail, are all of the spirits and wines . . . and there were lots of them!!!
Back to the ice cream freezer . . . Eric and I both noticed the rum raisin ice cream – such a favorite. Neither of us had seen it offered on board during our almost 18 days and of course, mentioned it! The Chef arranged to send to our respective suites, at 3:00 this afternoon, a bowl of rum raisin ice cream . . . how nice!
. . . and on the stroke of 3:00 o’clock p.m., my doorbell rang and there it was . . . a smiling crew member presenting me with a slightly melted bowl of, but never the less delicious, RUM RAISIN ICE CREAM. Enough calories in this little bowl so that I can go without food for the next two days!!! . . . Not!
Today is the first day that I’ve seen other cruise ships in our vicinity. These at breakfast . . . one is the Paul Gaugin, and am not certain of the other. All of these ships, on one satellite make the internet even less effective – UGH!
Another motu evening on the private island connected with the Conrad brand. A repeat of what we did about a week and a half ago. This time we had closer seats and there was no lady standing right in front of us so that all we saw was her green clad backside!
There are still no words . . .
This young man is 7 years old!
February 2, Wednesday – Huahine
We are back in Huahine, my favorite place for snorkeling! Did the same tour again. This time the water was more choppy, so swimming was a bit exerting for me, but the numbers of fish had tripled from last week. So many wonderful, colorful, unafraid fishes – all kinds, all sizes, and all imaginable colors!
Eric has a snorkel mask with a built-in camera that continually takes photos while he swims. What a wonderful invention. He’s promised to “share” some of his photos – can’t wait to see them.
This photo sent to me by someone who swam with the sharks!
Swam with lots of these pretties!!
We had the same wonderful crew on our snorkel adventure – a beautiful way to end this French Polynesian, albeit isolated and lengthened, adventure.
This afternoon many of the ship’s guests are invited to a wedding vows renewal. Interesting couple – will tell you more about them when I get home. At any rate, it’s a surprise to the husband. The wife has arranged it all. Should be interesting!
Also today will have an antigen test and then get documentation so that the USA lets me back into my country. Must have this test (with a negative result) within 24 hours of your flight. Have lost track of all of the PCR and antigen tests I’ve had within the last three weeks, but I think it’s getting close to TEN!
Tonight I’m dining with a lovely couple who’ve shared a couple of my snorkel outings. They are very nice and I look forward to a dinner with them. It will also be the first time on this ship that I’ve dined in the main dining room - Amphora. Better do it while I can, because tomorrow morning we leave the ship. Will transfer over to the Intercontinental Hotel where I have a day room. I can take advantage of the beautiful grounds, do more swimming, and then get ready to head for the airport after dinner. Our flight leaves around 10:00 p.m. I will also have some wonderful internet!!
February 3, Thursday – Papeete, French Polynesia – Intercontinental Hotel
We were off the ship by 8:45, taxied to the Intercontinental and are spending the day here until we have to leave for the airport at 8:00 p.m. Have spent most of the day in the infinity pool, visiting with new friends and having cocktails served from the bar in the pool!! Our flight leaves for SFO at 10:40 p.m. and we will be in San Francisco by 9:00 tomorrow morning. We’re going to have a nice dinner here before we board our flight so we can say “phooey” to the airline food! Hopefully I will sleep on the way home and be ready to go in the morning. There are quite a few guests who left the Star Breeze this morning, and many are flying out on our same flight, so the party continues . . . .
Our last dinner in Tahiti with our pool friends this day.
This has been a really wonderful getaway, even with the isolation . . . and then there was the gift of an extra week. But am ready to be home now, though I believe the weather is going to be a shock. Am now fully acclimated to this warm tropical air . . . lovely. See you all soon!