January 2010 - Los Angeles to Hong Kong on Seabourn Odyssey (Part I)

Thursday, January 21, 2010 - Departure

We left San Rafael at 6:30 a.m., in the dark, with the skies still leaking but not too heavily.   Our plan was to park our car at the flat in S.F. where a town car would be waiting to whisk us off to SFO.  Mission accomplished, checked in curbside with our one piece of luggage – but wait – our flight to L.A. is cancelled?!?!   Yep!   It was.  So instead of leaving at 9:37 a.m., we are now leaving at 10:30 a.m.   There are many flights cancelled this morning, perhaps because of the weather.

Got through security fairly quick, but you know that guy I’m married to, the one with all the metal in his two knee replacements – always causes such a fuss.   I was certain that TSA wore out a wand going over and over and over his legs, with beepers clanging and lights flashing all the while.   Finally let us go.   We had lots of time for a Peet’s coffee and something to snack on.  Now await our flight to be called at Gate 87.   So far, the expected awful storm seems tamer than news reported.   We’ll probably fly right into it!

And we did, although the storm proved just a little bit bumpy.  We arrived and deplaned, looking all the while for a Seabourn representative.   I’d had a call on my iPhone from Seabourn in Florida but couldn’t get the message.  They were probably wondering where we were!   We found two very nice people holding a Seabourn sign, however they were looking for guests by the name of Burke.   We were not on their list.   The Burke’s never showed up, so we took their place on a super shuttle and off we went to the Cruise Terminal in San Pedro.   The weather was stormy but when we arrived at the ship, rain had ceased and we remained dry while walking into the terminal.

After check-in, we were immediately brought aboard the Odyssey.   It was a bit after 1:00 p.m. and our room was ready.   This is a first!   We’ve never boarded sooner than 3:00 p.m. on other Seabourn cruises.  What a difference two hours makes.    I have all suitcases unpacked, everything put away, and am awaiting the boat drill which takes place in thirty minutes – 5:00 p.m.   We leave San Pedro at 6:00 p.m.  Am too tired to do any exploring prior to the drill, so will await the whistle calling us to our boat stations.   Adolfo is on Deck 8 – near the top – smoking a cigar.

Our stateroom is beautiful.   I’ll start from the bottom and go up.  Carpets are a brown and beige subtle stripe, with some darker spots of chocolate placed randomly.   This is a good ploy because if there are ever spots developing on the rug from messy guests, it will appear as part of the pattern!  There are two butter yellow club chairs, on either side of a table where we can dine en suite.  The table is of modern design, blond wood, with a glass top   Across from that arrangement, I am sitting on a sofa that is a little larger than a standard loveseat.   It is covered in a striped fabric the larger stripes of which are velvet and alternately colored butter yellow, caffe au lait, chocolate brown and deep brown.   Large burnt orange silk pillows are thrown on the sofa.

Outside we have a beautiful balcony which has two chairs, a small dining table, and a chaise.   We can request another chaise if we wish.  The balcony railing has solid see through Plexiglas from the railing to the floor. 

Dividing this room from the sleeping area are side cabinets facing each other across the room.  On one side is the entertainment center – flat panel TV, iPod/iPhone charger, etc. and storage on the bottom.  The one across the room houses a refrigerator, and wells for liquor or wine bottles and a drawer with bar supplies on the bottom.  Above that is a cabinet that holds a variety of beautiful crystal glasses.  Right along side, pulled back in lush fashion are floor to ceiling heavy draperies in deep rust silk.   These heavy draperies can be pulled across the opening to make to separate the sitting area from the sleeping area.

The sleeping area is next and has a queen size bed made up with beautiful white linens, feather pillows and a down quilt/duvet. Across the bottom of the bed is a narrow throw of chocolate brown textured velvet.  At the foot of the bed, separated with just enough room for a person to walk through, is a foot deep, six-foot long cabinet with shelves for storing clothing.   Lots and lots of geometric design in all of blond wood through the room.

Adjacent to the sleeping area is a hallway that leads to the stateroom door.   Along the left side going out the door, is a walk-in closet, with more storage and a large wall safe - then a small vanity area where the lady can do hair and makeup. The bathroom is the last room along the hall and is definitely plush.  The floor and walls are of beige/taupe granite and the vanity houses two 10” X 16” deep white sinks that underset with chocolate brown marble counters.  A separate triangular shower in the corner and a huge tub complete the bathroom fixtures (and of course, the toilette!).     The sink, shower and bath fixtures are of hi-tech design, chrome and very easy to operate.  The only downside is the huge step one must remember to go over to enter the bathroom from the stateroom – usual on ships.

We left San Pedro on time, and then the rocking and rolling began.   The seas were and continue to be “HUGE”!   Apparently with all of the storms off the western coast, the last two days have been uncomfortable aboard ship.   The Captain informs that this choppy sea should continue for at least 24 more hours.   YUCK!!

Friday, January 22, 2010 – At Sea

Last night was pretty awful.  The bow was crashing into huge swells and we were either floating above the mattress or being pushed through it by centrifugal force as the ship bobbed and weaved through the churned Pacific Ocean.   I awoke feeling unsettled. While preparing to leave the room for breakfast, the bow of the ship was hitting some very big swells sending curtains of water up and over our balcony – very dramatic. Decided that we’d head for the main dining room on Deck 4 and more amid ships than the location of our room which is forward on the ship and on Deck 6.   After a bit of oatmeal, tea and toast, am doing better.

Am currently on Deck 7 at the Cyber Cafe in the Concierge Lounge.   Very cool!  Coffee bar, tons of computers, manned desks where guests can get help with all sorts of things aboard ship, people coming and going.   Because of the motion of the ship, most are walking as though they’ve just completed a rather long cocktail hour!   One step forward, two steps to the left, a step and a half to the right, arms flailing a bit, and so forth . . .    What is missing is just a little music and a candid camera!   This could be a winning post on uTube!

Adolfo is going to two enrichment lectures this morning, and then we will meet up for the first round of Trivia.   This is fun while guests are at sea, even if the Trivia experience can become rather heated.

Trivia No. 1:  What is the highest elevation capital city in the world?

Finally got up to the Colonnade Room on Deck 8 for the buffet lunch.  The ship continued to rock and roll – the higher one climbs on the ship, the greater the motion.   In fact, during our lunch, we hit a particular big swell that sent plates and glasses crashing to the floor throughout the dining area.   Don’t think we’ll be back to the Colonnade until the seas quiet down.

On two previous Seabourn cruises we’ve had the pleasure of being entertained by George Sacilariou, a premiere guitarist.   In fact, George lives just five minutes away from us in San Rafael.  Last evening the big gala show was scheduled, but because it included lots of movement, was cancelled until the ship is quieter.   So we were treated to the music of George, who plays everything from pop to classical and jazz in between – a lovely way to end the evening . . . and so to bed.

Saturday, January 23, 2010 - At Sea

Last night was horrific!   The ship continued to pound through rough seas and while one could sleep through the motion, the bow of the ship cutting through the rough water sounded as though the gods Odin and Thor were in the ship’s hold and having a battle with huge sledgehammers.   For a while, unable to sleep, I counted the blows at every 20 to 30 seconds.  Believe a nap is in order later in the day.

Seas are a little quieter this morning.   We still have three more sea days prior to our first port at Nawiliwili, Kauai.   Do see a bit of blue skies scattered through some low-lying cloud cover.  Think I will try for some needlepoint time today and perhaps a bit of work on a project I brought with me.

If I could just get rid of this constant queasiness, all would be well!

Attended the chef’s demonstration this morning and found a new and wonderful to cook a filet mignon roast – poached in red wine and served with a port wine reduction.   Will try when I get home.   The chef is German and the food aboard ship is wonderful, as usual.   However, the second dish he prepared for us was a lobster risotto.   While I’m sure it was tasty, because he finished it off with two or more pounds of butter (YUCK! – but name me one thing that doesn’t taste good with lots of butter!), he never let the rice rest to build up those creamy starches around the edges which should then be folded back into the risotto.   I won’t be ordering risotto.   Guess I’m a risotto snob!

There’s still too much shaking aboard this ship to do needlepoint.   Besides the needle jumping into the wrong hole, my eyes are going nuts.   Will try again tomorrow.

After a three-hour nap this afternoon, am a bit refreshed.   Banging in hull seems to have subsided – praise God!

Will try to send this journal, thus far, in the hope that it reaches each of you.   If it bores you silly, please just delete.   Will try to report further on the ship more fully in the next few days. Right now, with the advent of the first major storms experienced by the Odyssey, we feel as though we are all on a shakedown cruise!

Trivia No.1 Answer:  La Paz, Bolivia

Sunday, January 24, 2010 - At Sea

Little whitecaps on the water this morning – much smoother sailing, though still some shaking and creaking while all this new interior wood trim settles in.   Weather is beginning to warm up as we near Hawaiian Islands – guess we’re nearly at the half way mark.   Should be about 70 degrees today and I might venture outside later for a walk on deck.   So far I’ve been a queasy slug.   Going to a lecture about food (like there’s not enough emphasis there already!) at 11:00 a.m., then trivia, then am treating myself to a manicure and pedicure . . . . which was fabulous.   Can’t wait for this one to wear out so I can go have another!

I truly did look forward to lots of days at sea on this voyage, but these seas have made days so far – interminable! There’s only one thing left to do – take a nap – opportunity for so many these sea days.

Am amazed at the number of people who are on for the complete world tour segment – Ft. Lauderdale, Florida to Athens, Greece – 108 days.    That’s twice as long as we’ll be aboard.  Seems a long time, but then conditions haven’t been as yet ideal, which we always expect aboard Seabourn.   Certain I’ll feel better when we get to better, warmer weather and truly calm seas.

Trivia No. 2:  Name three movies based on fact that were awarded Oscars in the 1960’s.

Monday, January 25, 2010 - At Sea

There was discussion at Trivia today regarding conversations other passengers have had with regard to the tremor on the ship near the stern (and I think other places, too!)  Apparently the Odyssey is now the test ship for the other two currently in the building stages – the Sojourn and Quest.   No amount of testing prior to launch could have prepared them for the last week of storms and very rough seas.   Information is being fed back to the Marriotti shipyard in Genoa so that adjustments can be made on the two newer ships.   Then with the first major service of this ship, further work will be done to correct the glitches. Meanwhile, our stateroom is beautiful, the service couldn’t be better, and the food – c’est magnifique!

There are five places on the ship where one can dine.   They are (1) the Colonnade Restaurant, which is casual and usually has a different ethnic theme each evening; (2) your own stateroom, where the dinner of your choice is served in courses with time in between each course; (3) the Patio Grill, super casual and out on the upper deck – weather permitting; (4) the Restaurant which features fine dining and an array of different choices each night, plus the always present, heart healthy (but very good) standard fare; and (5)  Restaurant 2.  We’re thinking that naming a restaurant “Restaurant 2” shows fatigue of imagination!

Tonight we are dining at Restaurant 2.  This is the only dining area where guests must make a reservation (unless you are a party of larger than 6 people – then reservations are required in the three main restaurants).  Each evening, Restaurant 2 features a different Chef’s tasting menu.   Here’s tonight’s fare:

• Chef’s Cocktail Caviar in the Cloud, Foggy Potatoes

• Cowboy Roll – Seared Flank Steak, Portobello, Sesame Sauce

• Barbequed Salmon – Jalapeno, Cucumber, Melted Mozzarella, Wasabi Mayo

• Duck Confit Pop – Roasted Pepper Relish, Creamy Chili Dip

• Tea Smoked Game Presse, Chestnut Spaetzle

• Porcini and Chestnut Cappuccino, Honey Spiced Squab and Fig Empanada

• Grilled Beef Tenderloin, Forest Mushrooms, Truffled emulsion

• Floating Lobster, Pesto Cream, Red Pepper Fondue, Lime Froth

• Sweet and Sour Apple Snow, Granny Smith Confit

• Apricot Beignets, Citrus Compote, Calvados Ice Cream

• Night Cap:  Orange Di Saronno

Just writing down this menu has me a bit confused.  Am certain that by the end of the meal my taste buds will be exhausted.  Further reporting will follow after the meal!

Trivia No. 2 Answer:  A Man for All Seasons, Lawrence of Arabia, A Sound of Music

Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - At Sea

Last night’s dinner was amazing.   Artistic, sometimes architectural, always divinely tasty – everything I listed above, we ate.   Our waiter was particularly entertaining because he has committed to memory all seven different menus and knows all of the particulars by heart.   We were even instructed to eat the several items on each course in a certain order.  The wine we started with was called “Conundrum”.   Felt the whole of the dinner in a way was a “Conundrum”, but a delicious one!

However, the most interesting part of the evening was where we were seated in the dining room.   When we made reservations, we were told that we’d be sitting at a table for six.  That’s almost always okay for us because we enjoy meeting new people.   As we approached the table there were two women already there.   Introductions were made.   It was Karen and Erlinda, and the other couple were Benny and Mary Ellen.   Conversation uncovered that Benny was traveling with his fiancé, although a wedding date was not yet set.   Benny is 78 years young, a charmer, and never previously married.   Said his business just kept him too busy.   Mary Ellen is an interior decorator who came to straighten out his house and they’ve been together ever since - for 15 years – just recently engaged.  We enjoyed them both immensely.

Karen is traveling with Erlinda, a lady of Philippine origins, who along with her husband, lived with and took care of Karen parents in San Francisco for 13 years.  Believe her mother passed first, but her father passed just last year at 100 years of age and went to his office in the Mills Building every day right until the end of his life.  He was a very well respected attorney in San Francisco and active in the State Bar.  When Adolfo asked his name, he not only realized that Karen’s father was well known to him but that we’d been to a couple of weddings of Armenian families where he’d also been a guest. Small world!   In Karen’s eyes this suddenly made us family and we were promptly invited to her birthday celebration dinner on January 27, as were the other couple.   We really did have a very nice evening.

Today was an uneventful day.   Once again lots of napping, very little reading or needlework. Hope to catch up soon.

Trivia No. 3:  What painkiller is naturally generated by the human brain?

Wednesday, January 27, 2010 – Nawiliwili, Kauai

This morning, early, while it was barely light, we arrived at the port of Nawiliwili.   Adolfo and I elected not to do any touring.   We’ve already seen this island years ago.  Felt is was most important to get off the ship and walk a bit. 

Spoke with Mama shortly before we left the ship for our walk.   She sounds well and happy.   Says she is being very well cared for – that’s wonderful!

Established as Kauai’s principal port in 1930, Nawiliwili was named for the Wiliwili trees that were once abundant in the area.  Cruise ships make port in the picturesque harbor, which is overlooked by the Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club.

For a rather small island, Kauai’s opportunities for you to see a variety of geography, landscapes, and other points of interest, are virtually endless.  Drive just a short distance and you will be enchanted by the beauty and diversity around every turn, from town to town, and in between.

The volcano on this island, Waialeale,  at 5,148 feet, is the wettest known area on earth with 471 inches of rain annually.

Years ago when we first visited Kauai, we drove around the island extensively and visited the bay where the movie “South Pacific” was filmed; we boated up the Waimea River to the famed Fern Grotto and were serenaded by locals singing the Hawaiian Wedding Song; then we drove and drove up and around the Grand Canyon of the Hawaiian Islands – Waimea Canyon - where we saw wild mountain goats and the distant rugged Napali Coast.   It’s a beautiful island   Today we were tempted to go on a tour to the Botanical Gardens, but the need for relaxation won out! 

After a light breakfast outdoors on the back veranda of the ship, we left the ship and took the shuttle to a locally, much touted shopping mall to wander around a bit.  The shuttle was a surprise to us because it was an exact replica of a San Francisco cable car, but with wheels. Arriving at the mall, it took us all of ten minutes to realize this jaunt had just been a good excuse to walk on a surface that was stationery – no stores of any interest.   Continued to wander in the direction of the ship and decided to walk back, rather than catch the return shuttle - a nice walk prior to the weather getting too hot and muggy.

Decided to lunch poolside at the Patio Grill.   The pool area on this ship is a huge step up from the smaller Seabourn ships.   Adolfo’s only regret is that the ship rule is that he can no longer smoke a cigar there – such a disappointment for him!   Used to be his favorite spot for cigars.

On the smaller ships, there was a portable grill brought poolside for nice weather days.   Now there is a huge permanent mini kitchen, with grill, three pizza ovens, and a stationery food bar.   Today’s array of salads was mouth watering (everything aboard ship is mouth watering  - and hip growing!)   Had my favorite lunch of Caesar Salad and a bit of grilled chicken added.   Unfortunately, there’s also a gelato bar, where fresh and exotic home-made ice creams are featured every day – flavors like Calvados, Triple Caramel, Fresh Peach, Blueberry, and yesterday a Bourbon ice cream that was absolutely delicious – yes, I had a scoop!  Yesterday, too!

Tonight we dine with Karen in celebration of her birthday.   That’s all for now.   Will try to get this off to my Journal Group.

Trivia No. 3 Answer:  Endorphins

Thursday, January 28, 2010 – Honolulu, Oahu

This morning it’s Honolulu and a shopping day at the Ala Moana Shopping Center.  Had dinner with a lady two nights ago named Pat. We’ve decided to spend the day together and shop ‘til we drop!  It will give me a chance to find a really beautiful Polynesian shirt for Adolfo’s birthday next week.

However, at breakfast Pat said she had a chance to go grocery shopping with the head chef this morning, so I was on my own.   Just as well,  I could shop as much or as little as I wished.

Even though we’ve fully investigated the island in previous years, Adolfo has decided to do a full day tour, once again taking in the Arizona Memorial and other things.  More later . . . .

Dinner last night was fun celebrating Karen’s birthday.  I would guess that she’s in her late 40’s. She was not forthcoming with her age when asked very gently by the other male guest at the table.   Learned a bunch about this lady.  Her father was a roommate of Richard Nixon while in the Navy, she actually visited RMN in the White House, when a child – said he was charming.  Karen’s an actress, writer, producer and director – admits she’s led a fascinating life. However, she now wishes for nothing more than to find the “perfect man”.  I didn’t have enough wine, nor courage, to tell her there is no perfection on earth – neither male nor female!  She was engaged at age 28 to actor, Lex Barker (one of the many Tarzans), when he died in New York.  So guess with a bit of googling, I can get her exact age!  She’s played Italian mothers, gypsies, and other exotic characters in both television and movies.   The agency, William Morris, currently has her first novel entitled “The Whip” and is peddling it to publishers.   Her prior book is a series of interviews she conducted with various luminaries. Adolfo has invited her for risotto when she comes to San Francisco!   Guess he likes her!  If everyone comes that he’s invited thus far, I’ll be tied to the stove for an eternity. 

Oh my gosh!   I just googled Lex Barker.   If she was 28 when he died, that would make her 65!   She has to have had some work done!!!!!  Okay – I just finished googling her and it lists her date of birth at 1950.  So, she’s between 60 and 65.   There are no more secrets with Google!!!  And I know – I’m naughty!

Have just returned to the ship after almost three hours of concentrated shopping.   Am dog-tired!  Ala Moana is the largest shopping center I’ve ever seen.  The cab driver told me that the Japanese come to Honolulu just to go shopping at Ala Moana. Stores run the gamut, from Prada to Levi’s.

While at Nordstrom looking over selections, there was a woman standing next to me who I fleetingly glanced at.  What?  Could it be?   Indeed it was Gay, an old friend from Stockton who I haven’t seen in over five years.   We turned to each other simultaneously and couldn’t really believe we were meeting in Oahu.  Gay and Mike live here three or four months annually and have a condo at the foot of Diamond Head – I’d forgotten that completely.    If Adolfo is willing to give up tour and cocktails this evening at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, will call Gay and they’ll come over to get us so we can go out together and catch up a bit.  Our ship doesn’t leave for Maui until 11:00 p.m.

Today Adolfo chose to once again view the U.S.S. Arizona, a ship that was sunk during the Pearl Harbor attack at the beginning of WWII.  The ship is barely below the surface and is still the final resting place of sailors who went down with her.   Parts of the rusted ship appear above surface.  Over the Arizona, out in the middle of the bay is the most beautiful and inspiring memorial.  At one end inside the white structure is a marble wall with the names of all who died on the ship at the time of attack.   It is a very moving tribute to those brave, very young men.

Also on Adolfo’s tour was Scoffield Barracks, which he’d never seen before, and a bus ride through the cemetery for all of those who perished during the Pearl Harbor attack.   Visitors are no longer allowed to leave the bus and wander the cemetery because right after 9/11 there was severe desecration of the grave sites.   The cemetery is now closed to those who might want to pay respects.

As it turned out, Adolfo, on his return to the ship said he was okay to miss the Royal Hawaiian (it turned out to be a luau – so glad we didn’t go!), so after a phone call to Gay, we taxied over to a restaurant near the ship – John Dominus – and met our friends for an exceptional dinner – beautiful fresh fish, Onaga, steamed with Asian herbs, for the ladies and Tiger prawns for the gentlemen.   Tons of laughter and catching up, and of course, a telephone call to Stockton to my cousins, Marilyn and Ray, who are best friends of Mike and Gay. 

After we got back to the ship, we journeyed topside to await the arrival of children from a local school.  Halau ‘O Napuala’ Ikauika’ Iu is a school located in Kalihi.  In September of 1998, the school opened its doors to educate children in the art of hula.

The school perpetuates the living art of hula, under the guidance of Kumu Hula Sallie Yoza.  The halau strives to educate and install in their students Hawaiian values and the art of dance, music, language, chant and history.  They nurture this goal with the fellowship of their hula ‘ohana and the belief that life is a journey.  The purpose is to ensure that each student’s journey with the halau is filled with many learning, memorable and rewarding paths.

Children ranged in age from 4 to 12 – girls and boys.  They danced the many different styles of each of the Hawaiian Islands, accompanied by a local Hawaiian band comprised of four talented musicians.   It was lovely and very sweet, but I folded just prior to the last dance, made my way back to the stateroom, and was asleep as my head hit the pillow.

Trivia No. 4:  What year will Halley’s Comet appear again?

Friday, January 29, 2010 – Lahaina, Maui – At Anchor

You can stand above the clouds atop the Haleakala Crater,  watch a 45 foot whale surface off the coast of Lahaina, and lose count of the waterfalls outside your window as you drive the hairpin turns of Hana highway.   There’s a reason why Maui is nicknamed “The Magic Isle.”

It’s the second largest Hawaiian island but has a smaller population than you’d expect, making Maui popular with visitors who are looking for sophisticated diversios and amenities in the small, intimate towns peppered throughout the island.

In 1790, after a fierce battle in the Iao Valley,  King Kamehameha took control of Maui and made Lahaina the new capital of the unified Hawaiian Kingdom.   For nearly five decades, Lahaina served as the center of government for Hawaii. Simultaneously, the town experienced a surge in its whaling industry.  At the height of the whaling era (1840-1865) as many as 500 ships anchored in Lahaina’s port.

Today we are meeting Sue and Tom, former shipmates on two prior Seabourn cruises.  We’ve stayed in touch with these two dear people.  Tom sends daily jokes via email that are wonderful.  For part of the year, they make their home on Maui.  It will be great fun to see them again.  We’ve been instructed to wait under the shade tree across from the Pioneer Inn and to look for the beige van with the “Aloha” license plate.  Then we’ll go off to see their new home before returning to lunch at Tom’s yacht club in Lahaina.   Should be fun.

As I write this segment we are passing the island of Molokai.  The water is like glass.  We should be anchoring shortly and tendering to go ashore at Lahaina will begin around 8:30.   So guess I should get dressed and up to breakfast.   Will report more later.   Yep, better get going, just heard the anchor drop!

Later in the day . . . . and we are back aboard ship after spending a delightful day with Sue and Tom.   Spent some time at their home in “The Masters”, a development on a beautiful golf course (the 9th fairway) in the Kaanapali foothills.   While we caught up on the intervening years, we looked out at Molokai in the distance and whales passing through the straits between that island and Maui.   Then we went down into the town of Lahaina and went to Tom’s yacht club, a funky, wonderful, little place right on the main street of Lahaina, waterside – ate lunch, visited more and then it was time for us to head back to the tenders.  So sorry that they are not joining us back on the ship, but we did speak about choosing a future cruise where we could once again sail together.

Last night they had dinner with Lucie and Bob who also cruised with us years ago.  They are joining the Odyssey in Sydney, so we’ll also get to touch base with these old friends.

Tonight we’ve been invited to dine with the Cruise Director.   He’s a very jolly fellow, good humor, just silly enough to loosen up some of the stodgier guests.   Look forward to the evening.

Trivia Answer No. 4:  2061

Saturday, January 30, 2010 – At Sea

Dinner last night was full of laughter.   Barry, the cruise director, is never without entertaining cruising stories, and thankfully, we had an entire dinner without the mention of politics!  Am constantly amazed that when in a group of virtual strangers, some people make such strong political statements that don’t allow for any other opinion.  ‘Tis a great exercise in keeping one’s mouth closed!

There are wonderful guest speakers aboard ship and during the sea days, one might attend three lectures or demonstrations.   Tomorrow one of the speakers will be Garrick Utley, from TV news.

But today we had a guest celebrity chef aboard.  Chef Mavrothalassitis, of Chef Mavro restaurant in Honolulu showed us how to make Confit Hamachi (tuna poached in olive oil) with a raw (cured in sea salt) salmon sauce consisting of perfectly chopped raw salmon, sour cream, minced shallot, green onion, fresh diced tomato and all topped off with salmon roe..  It will be on the menu tomorrow night.   Don’t know that I will cook it when I get home, but might try it. Though the chef’s name is Greek he was born and raised in Paris – so considers himself French.   He came to Honolulu twenty-two years ago and opened a restaurant that is today considered one of Honolulu’s best.  He employs French cooking techniques but his menus have changed over the years to include all of the best local fresh products with infusion of Asian style cooking.  He really was very charming but his accent was so thick that I was exhausted from trying to understand what he was saying!

Sunday, January 31, 2010 – At Sea

Today is another easy day at sea.   Not much to report.   We’re eating, resting, going to lectures, eating and resting some more - such a hard life!  Sea a bit bumpy today and although there is breeze, the day is pleasant.

Believe tomorrow we’ll be at Christmas Island.  There are no tours scheduled – would think that’s because everyone we talk to tells us there is nothing there!  Curious.  

Think I’ll send this off today.  Have just finished posting latest photos. 

Trivia No. 5:  What does a deltiologist collect?

Monday, February 1, 2010 – At Sea (one more day!)

Late yesterday afternoon we decided to have a quiet evening.  We opted to stay in our day clothes and eat on deck at the Patio Grill – very simple fare of salads, steaks, chicken, fish and potatoes, etc. - then come back to our stateroom and watch a movie.

Our dinner on deck was very nice.   It was a shirt-sleeve evening – lovely, balmy temperatures, a beautiful sky with some clouds and a lovely moon.   Our dinner fare was simple, but I ate too much - Nigerian prawns (more like small lobsters), grilled and a small filet mignon (very small which I could not finish) and for Adolfo, a rib eye steak.   We didn’t have any room for dessert.   We came back to our room and watched a really sweet movie – Local Color (except for fairly frequent use of a four letter word).  Believe this is a new release. The evening was a nice change of pace and one that we’ll probably repeat every seven to ten days.

Had a productive afternoon yesterday, as I finally figured out (it was truly simple!) how to put titles on our photos.  Can’t for the life of me figure out how it eluded me for so long a time.  Went through all photos so far and gave them titles.  So in future, hopefully, any photos posted on line will have them.  

Trivia Answer No. 5:  Post cards.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010 – Christmas Island

Did you know that the first inhabited place that celebrates New Year’s Eve is Christmas Island in the Republic of Kiribati?   Also, if you google Christmas Island, there are two of them – one off the coast of Indonesia and one in the Republic of Kiribati where we are anchored today.

Kiritimati, or Christmas Island is the largest atoll in the world.   The island has the greatest land area of any coral atoll, about 124 square miles.  Its lagoon is about the same size.  The atoll is about 93 miles in perimeter, while the lagoon shoreline extends for over 30 miles.  Christmas Island comprises over 70% of the total land area of Kiribati, a nation encompassing 33 Pacific atolls and islands.

Nuclear tests were conducted in the region around Kiritimati by the United Kingdom in the late 1950’s.  During these tests islanders were not evacuated.  Subsequently British, New Zealand and Fijian servicemen as well as local islanders have claimed to have suffered from exposure to the radiation from these blasts.

The name “Kiritimati” is a rather straightforward transliteration of the English word “Christmas” into Gilbertse  where the “ti” combination is pronounced “s” and thus pronounced “ka-ris-mas”.  Similarly Kiribati is a transliteration of Gilbertese with the “K” replacing the “G” and the “R” replacing the “L”.

Discovered by Captain James Cook on Christmas Eve, 1777, the island was claimed by the United States under the Guano Islands Act of 1856, though the actual mining of guano never took place.  This claim was formally ceded by the Treaty of Tarawa between the U.S. and Kiribati, signed in 1979 and ratified in 1983.  Permanent settlement started by 1882, mainly by workers in coconut plantations and fishermen, but due to an extreme drought which killed off tens of thousands of Coconut Palms, about 75% of the island’s palms, the island was once again abandoned between 1905 and 1912.

If you are interested in more information on this location, google Christmas Island in Kiribati. There are pages and pages!

We anchored off shore at Christmas Island, a good way from the lagoon shore.   Because the reef surrounding the island is huge, the ship had to be approximatey two and a half miles out, not only anchored, but constantly using thrusters to keep the sides of the ship from drifting into the reef.

The tenders which normally carry 70 passengers, had to go down to 40 per tender so that the weight in the boats could cross over the narrow channel through the reef without ripping the bottom of the tenders.  We were to be here from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., with the last tender leaving the pier at 12:45.   However, because the tide was receding, the time for leaving was pushed up one hour.    We had a long trip in the tender (2-1/2 miles is a long way in a little boat bouncing around in beautiful but bumpy waves!) and then wandered around the very poor village on shore.   Some brave souls went swimming in the beautiful blue waters of the lagoon, but we were warned that the currents are very strong here, even in the so-called “lagoon”.

The native people had tables set up setting baskets and jewelry made from local shells.   One group of men was dancing and singing, and the other group, both men and women, sat in a circle singing local music.   The day had been rainy, so the sandy roadways (more like wide rutted paths) were full of large puddles.   Natives just walked right through them in their bare, or sandal clad feet.  Guests of Seabourn stepped gingerly around them!

There were two stores, one had a name, “something (can’t remember the name) Warehouse”, and the other was called “Fair Price”. The first, the warehouse, was dirty, dingy, loaded with awful junk set upon row after row of rusted shelving. We were in and out in a trice, but I did notice when leaving, there was a huge box holding the door open.   The box was entitled “Suggestion Box”.   There was not enough paper on the island!!!

The other store, “Fair Price”, also had rusting shelves.   Actually if rust were a valuable commodity, this island would have cornered the market!  Beached boats, cars, corrugated roofs, poles – everything is rusty!  There were wonderful canned goods such as Anchovies in Tomato Sauce (UGH!), and other assorted “delicacies”.  Most goods were things made in China and items that we probably saw on store shelves 30 years ago.  Nowhere could we find fresh fruit or vegetables.  From what we didn’t see in the stores, we deduced that the people’s staple diet must be fresh fish, bananas and coconuts.  This was also a deduction after seeing that aging islanders had teeth rotting in their mouths – not a pretty sight.  This island would be a mecca for a dental group!

Although there is an airport on the island, we were told the tarmac has developed a huge crack.  Even so, there is still one plane in and out each month.  With all of the young men we saw standing around in groups doing nothing, would think they could be repairing the airport runway.

We couldn’t figure out what work there is available here for young people.  Someone mentioned that some pick coconuts on what are left of the island palms and sell those to the coconut plantations.

Additionally, I don’t believe the island is over six feet above sea level.   It’s the flattest pancake of an island I’ve ever seen.   Can’t imagine what happens when they get a bad storm – perhaps a typhoon.

The people were sweet, but it is a bleak place.  It reminds me again, that one must grow where one is planted and that some of the gardens we are born into are more fertile and abundant than others.   It was a day for me to be grateful.

Trivia No. 6:  What is the purist color of topaz?

Wednesday, February 3, 2010 – At Sea

Am sitting out on the pool deck, in the muggy, warm climate, almost half way to Tahiti.   Have just completed the previous day’s journal.  We are looking forward to another round of Trivia in about 45 minutes.   Our team – The Vodka Martinis – is placed about 5th in a field of 15, so we’re not doing badly.   Later this afternoon, will be the King Neptune ceremonies for all of those who’ve not yet crossed the Equator, which we did last evening at 8:30.  The other evening at dinner the Cruise Director has told us there will be lots of antics.   Should be fun.   Tonight we’ll be dining with Pat and Homer, a delightful couple that we enjoy immensely.  

Dinner a couple of nights ago with one of the lecturers was interminable.   He’s not a very interesting lecturer, so in future, that will be our measure.   Good lecturer, good dinner companion.   Bad lecturer – “no thank you”!

Tomorrow is Adolfo’s 78th birthday and we’ve each invited people for a celebratory table at dinner.   It got out of hand because we now have twelve people for dinner, which will be a very cozy table.   Oh well, the Maitre d’ says it can be done.   Everyone is so very accommodating on the ship.

Trivia Answer No. 6:  The purest form of topaz is clear.

Thursday, February 4, 2010 – At Sea – Adolfo’s Birthday

We plowed through the seas during the night, skirting the edge of a typhoon – huge seas and they continue this a.m. while the ship goes full throttle on its way to Papeete.   We had notes on our doors this morning apologizing for the rough ride in these seas, but it appears there is an injured crew person and we must reach Tahiti sooner than noon tomorrow.   I’ve just been told that the crew person has a liver problem and the ship’s doctor almost lost the patient during the night.  Sounds like liver failure.     At any rate, the roller coaster ride will continue through this day and tonight until we reach a point at sea where we are within helicopter range.   I believe then he will be airlifted from the ship to hospital on Tahiti.

We’ve had lots of problems with our post cruise trip to Guilin in China.  No one on the ship seemed to know anything about it – most unSeabourn-like.   I believe that this morning we have straightened everything out but the saga has been going on for a week and a half.  However, it seems that our flight home has been cancelled and we will not be able to get home on March 19, but instead will fly out of Hong Kong on March 20 arriving home the same day.   More on this when it is confirmed.  Meanwhile, Seabourn is footing the bill for all extra hotel costs – nice.

Today was the ceremony of “crossing the line” – a time honored historical tradition of the US Navy and other navies of the world, commemorating a sailor’s first crossing of the equator.  Originally the tradition was created as a test for seasoned sailors to ensure their new shipmates were capable of handling long rough times at sea.  Sailors who have already crossed the equator are nicknamed (Trusty) Shellbacks, often referred to as Sons of Neptune. Those who have not crossed are nicknamed (Slimy) Pollywogs.

Those involved in the ceremonies were all crew, and boy oh boy, did they ever get into a mess!   There were bowls and bowls of gooey glop in assorted colors which were ladled, poured, scooped and slopped onto the newbies of crew who had not yet crossed the equator.   Others of the crew played King Neptune and his court and even the Captain of our ship volunteered to be in the ceremony, though he has crossed the equator many times. He, too, got ladled, poured, scooped and slopped on with all sorts of gunk prior to getting thrown into the pool with all the rest.

Trivia No.7:  Which country has the longest coastline?

Friday, February 5, 2010 – Arriving  Papeete, Tahiti later today.

Adolfo’s birthday dinner last night was fun.   In honor of his special day, I actually had my first fancy dessert since we began this trip – a chocolate, peanut butter parfait with honey caramel sauce – oh my, so good!   This is not to say I haven’t been eating desserts, but my focus has been on the daily made, fresh fruit sorbets – sweet without too many calories.  I’m so afraid it has started me on a downhill slide!

Our ship continues to plow through seas with huge swells on its way to helicopter range for the critically ill crew member.         Later . . . We just heard that during the night, his condition stabilized, so a helicopter evacuation was not necessary.   This morning after we berthed at around 9:30, an ambulance was waiting dockside and accompanied by the ship’s nurse, he was taken off ship to the ambulance and whisked away to hospital.   He waved to all passengers as he was leaving the ship.    After whizzing along for 36 hours, the stand-still quiet is awesome!

Coming in to Papeete this morning, the ship navigated through what seemed a very narrow opening in the reef.  Stabilizers on the ship had to be retracted prior to entering the inside of the reef.

Hit hard by Cyclone Ollie, the beaches on Tahiti (Papeete) are a mess and it is recommended that we do not swim in the waters.   The weather is sweltering – probably close to 100 degrees with humidity close to matching.  We went out for a turn around the town of Papeete.   Adolfo cannot cope with the heat and humidity so the walk was a short one!   We are back on board, sitting in cool aircon.   Will try again later this afternoon, or perhaps early tomorrow morning.  We had thought of taking the ferry over to the island of Moorea (pronounced “Mo-o-raya”) tomorrow morning.   Our ship doesn’t leave until 6:00 tomorrow afternoon.

Tahiti is French Polynesia’s largest and most glamorous tropical island and home to its unique capital city of Papeete.   Sometimes called the Island of Love, Tahiti is shrouded in legend and the central character in many stories of travel, romance and intrigue.  Not all these stories are grounded in fact.  Most notable is the common referral of the word “Tahiti” to represent all the islands of French Polynesia.  This is incorrect.  Tahiti is in fact the largest and most populated island of the 118 islands and atolls that comprise Tahiti Polynesia and of course, the most famous.

Tonight’s Polynesian show was performed by the dance troupe, “O Tahiti E” - internationally recognized and often represents Polynesia in international competitions.   The men and women who danced and sang were sensational.  Even though we were both so tired and sapped of strength by the heat earlier in the day, we toughed it out and stayed up for the show – we were not sorry.

Trivia Answer No.7:  Canada.

Saturday, February 6, 2010 - Papeete, Tahiti

Though we had hoped to take the ferry over to Moorea this morning, we were daunted by the threatening skies and a possible storm – and the fear that we could get stranded over on Moorea and not make it back for the Odyssey sailing at 6:00 p.m.   Instead we took a tour from the ship – Tahiti in Brief” – sounds like Polynesian underwear!  This tour would take us to Venus Point and give us a thumbnail view of the island.  Temperatures, due to the overcast skies are approximately ten degrees cooler than yesterday.  It makes a huge difference.

As we drove out of Papeete, our guide told us that fifty years ago, there were no homes on the hillside slopes leading up the mountain.   However, today there are homes everywhere.   She also told us that 1000 years from now, this island will no longer exist, as it continues to sink and erode.   There were definite signs of erosion on the coastal roadways that in some places had huge cracks on the water side and looked like with little persuasion, pieces of the pavement might just drop off the edge.

We boarded our bus at 9:15 a.m., all fourteen of us.   I really prefer smaller groups like this one.  Our guide, an articulate Tahitian, pointed out flora, described the fauna of the island, and like New Zealand, we learned there are no dangerous predators on this island.  The plumeria trees are in full bloom, as are other very exotic flowering shrubs and trees – all very beautiful.

Our first stop was at the home / museum of James Norman Hall, an American, who along with Charles Nordhoff wrote the Bounty Trilogy (Mutiny on the Bounty, Men Against the Sea and Pitcairn’s Island).   They also collaborated to write many other books.  Both men settled here, married women who lived here – Hall married the daughter of an American man and a Tahitian woman – Nordhoff married a Tahitian woman. 

The home of Hall was charming with much of the original furniture and memorabilia still in place and our guide was sensational.   Walls were covered with photographs, both of the family and of Hall’s career in the military in WWII where he received many ribbons and medals for valorous service by the Americans, the French and someone else – I can’t remember!

What made the day absolutely charming was the fact that his surviving child, Nancy Hall Rutgers, was visiting from Denver, Colorado, and wanted to spend time with us.   She was born in the house in 1936 and grew up on the island.   She met and married an America at age 17 and they have been married 63 years this year.   She is single-handedly trying to keep this little museum going, without any help from grants or government and is not certain how much longer she can continue.   Nancy was truly charming and read to us poetry from a book her father put together of poems he wrote to her beginning on the day of her birth, and one each succeeding birthday ending with her wedding day.   The reading took place in the garden as we all sat around her. The book is charming.   She signed and dedicated those we purchased and insisted that we take photos with her.  The experience was one of those little bright spots that we’ll not forget.

You might be interested to know that James Norman Hall’s son, Conrad Lafcadio Hall, died in 2003.   He was a renowned cinematographer named after his father’s idol, Joseph Conrad and also writer Lafcadio Hearn.   Conrad Hall was best known for photographing films such as Morituri, The Professionals, In Cold Blood, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, The Day of the Locust, Tequila Sunrise, Searching for Bobby Fischer, A Civil Action, American Beauty and Road to Perdition – quite an impressive list which gained him three Academy Awards.

We chose this tour just to give us something safe to do that would get us back to the ship in plenty of time before the sailing, and it turned out to be a little jewel.  Nancy Hall Rutgers made it so.

Also on the tour was a famous blowhole on the coast where people try to take photos, don’t time it quite right and come away soaked, and Venus Point where Captain Cook landed when he discovered the island.   At Venus Point there is a very pretty lighthouse that we found out was built by the father of Robert Louis Stevenson.   RLS was also a prominent resident in this part of the world.   Additionally, the first Evangelical Missionaries landed at Venus Point prior to moving on to adjacent islands and finally to Hawaii.

Trivia No.8:  What country was the first to abolish the death penalty?

PS:   Note to Mama:  Mama, There’s a gentleman aboard this ship who is 96 years old, and although he is five weeks older than you, we know you’d be dancing rings around him if you were here!!!  Love and hugs,  J & A

Sunday, February 7, 2010 – Bora Bora, French Polynesia

The island of Bora Bora (ancient name of Pora Pora meaning “first born”), with a lagoon resembling an artist’s palette of blues and greens, is love at first sight.   Romantics from around the world have laid claim to this island where the castle-like Mount Otemanu pierces the sky.  Lush tropical slopes and valleys blossom with hibiscus, while palm-covered motu circle the illuminated lagoon like a delicate necklace.  Perfect white sand beaches give way to emerald waters where colored fish animate the coral gardens as they green the giant manta rays.  This could be easily described as the center of the romantic universe, where luxury resorts and spas dot the island with overwater bungalows, thatched roof villas, and fables ambience.

The island is a mere is a mere 15 square miles.   The population is slightly more than 5,800, hardly enough to make a crowd.  Even after Cyclone Ollie, the waters of the bay are an exquisite bright turquoise.   However, because of Ollie, this island is rather a mess.   Many residents have lost their homes – only the foundations yet exist.  Trees are broken, limbs lie around, parts of the waters are filled with debris washing down from the mountains and out to sea.  The usually lush vegetation has an overall brownish cast – this caused from the salt carried from sea during Ollie.   We were told that it will take approximately 1-1/2 months for the greening to complete.

Adolfo opted for a four-hour tour on “Le Truck” – this included a trip around the island stopping at vistas affording beautiful photos.   I was worried that “Le Truck” might mean an open vehicle, so opted for the glass-bottomed boat which only took an hour out on the water.

Our guide on the boat, Keith, had an interesting story.   I asked him what brought him to Bora Bora.   He said he was on a merchant ship in the early 1970’s when he was a very young man from North Dakota.   This boat came out of Washington State and was carrying wood – Colorado Blue Spruce – to be delivered to Bora Bora.  When they anchored off the island he jumped ship and has been there ever since.  He was one of the residents who lost the roof to his house in the cyclone.  Said as he spoke to us that his roof was sitting in the garden of his next door neighbor.

Looking at the many different fish through the glass-bottomed boat was fun, even though with the partial cloud cover, the water was not as clear as it might have been.  I must have taken 75 photos and on my return to the Odyssey, threw out all but one – and that one’s not so hot!  Perhaps “hot” is not the right word, as everything today is “hot”.  The weather today on Bora Bora I can only liken to a sauna in Hell!

There is another cyclone in the offing named “Pat”.   Captain Dexter assures us that they are keeping an eye on it and will inform us, as necessary.  I truly don’t want more bumpy seas, but it looks like all of us are at the mercy of King Neptune.

On past cruises with Seabourn there have always been two formal nights each week.   I brought clothing with that in mind.   Should have checked because on this cruise there is only one formal night every 7 to 10 days.   There are still the diehards aboard who dress up for the “elegant casual” nights – guess I’ll be one of them!  Luckily, some of my choices for the trip include black pants/skirt and fancy (not too fancy) tops.   They’ll work.

Trivia Answer No.8:  Austria.

Monday, February 8, 2010 – At Sea, on our way to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands

Rarotonga is a part of the Cook Islands, an island group annexed by New Zealand in 1901.  Although the Cook Islands became self-governing in 1965, New Zealand maintains a High Commissioner in Rarotonga, representing the Queen and the New Zealand government.  The Cook Islands have approximately 21,000 in population, with more than half that number in Rarotonga.

Trivia No.9:  What is Dame Edith’s real name?

Tuesday, February 9, 2010 – Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Imagine a tranquil Pacific paradise where no building can rise higher than a palm tree, where modern times have arrived with basic comforts but without brassy commercialism.  That Rarotonga.

Just awoke to the sound of the anchor dropping off the shores of Rarotonga.   No sooner was that accomplished and the ship’s captain announced that we would be picking it back up and heading down to Russell – Bay of Islands, New Zealand, our next stop after several days at sea.   There are huge swells here in the Rarotonga waters, making it most dangerous to get into tenders to be taken ashore.   Though disappointed, it must be pretty bad because we have on this trip gotten into tenders and had to be most cautious because of the continual change in the motion between the Odyssey and the tender.  We were scheduled for a four-hour Jeep trip here – oh well – Captain knows best!   I’m sorry for the people on Rarotonga, as many eke out their meager livings selling local crafts to cruise ships.

Guess we’ll just have to “imagine a tranquil Pacific paradise . . . . .”

We will be arriving earlier in the day on February 14, scheduled for Russell, therefore allowing for more tours there.   So, instead of spending a half day in Russell, we’ll be there all day.  This might be good for us as we’ve been there on a previous cruise and had seen what was being offered.   Perhaps something new and of interest to us will be added to that day’s schedule.

We’ve met another very nice couple, Mike and Pamela, who live about one hour north of Lake Tahoe, near Grey Eagle.   Mike often plays Blackjack in the Casino, so I’ve had an acquaintance with him there.   We were seated with them the other night at dinner in the main restaurant and hit it off immediately.  Both Mike and Adolph regard Restaurant 2 with a bit of derision.   So many small bites and just when you really like the taste of something, there’s no more of it!    But Pamela and I talked them into making one more visit to Restaurant 2.   The women look forward to the men’s comments – certain to be entertaining. The men are sharpening up their sarcasm skills with regard to the food.  I love this restaurant because the food is like nothing I would ever even attempt at home – such a treat!  The presentations are tasty, artistic and architectural, and I leave pleased but not too full.

Here’s the menu for our dinner with Pamela and Mike tonight:

Chef’s Cocktail:  Shrimp Tempura, Green Papaya and Celery Margarita, Orange Aioli

Seared Beef Tataki, Pickled Vegetables, Ponzu Jelly, Tahini Puree

Crispy Curried Vidalia Onion Rings, Bitter Greens

Navy Bean Fritter, Yogurt Raita

Clear Tomato Presse, Goat Cheese Panna Cotta, Tear Drop Confit

White Tomato Cappuccino, Chicken and Pesto Strudel, Basil Foam

Grilled Dorade, Preserved Lemon Sauce, Ricotta Gnocchi, Parmesan Gremolata

Slow Roasted Lamp Shank and Potato Moussaka, Red Wine Jus

Bailey’s Sabayon, Crushed Chocolate Flakes

Coconut and Passion Fruit Gelato, Almond Foam, Blackberry Sorbet, Red Beet Tuille

Night Cap:  After 2

We’ve just come back from lunch where we sat next to Lothar and Piroska, the former of Germany and the latter from Russia – both now settled in Canada.  Lothar wondered all through lunch why the chefs on the ship couldn’t just offer some plain home-cooked food.   They are on for the full world cruise of 108 days.   He also couldn’t understand why every two to three weeks, the menus are repeated.   He wants something different each and every of the 108 days!    I, on the other hand, don’t really care what is offered for meals.   There are plenty of different dining venues and menu choices, no need to bore the pallet. Additionally, a short conversation with the chef and you can have anything you want the next day.  What could be more perfect!  If I’d wanted simple home-cooked food, I’d have stayed at home and saved a ton!   Am looking at the wording of this last sentence and laughing -  “saved a ton” is in reference to funds.   I only hope it doesn’t turn out to be in reference to my weight!!! 

Anyone ever heard of Popeye fish?   Apparently it’s a local fish in the South Seas – white meat – very tasty.   It was wonderful!  The best fish dish on board so far, except maybe for the Nigerian prawns and the lobster.

Trivia Answer No.9:  Barry Humphries

Wednesday, February 10, 2010 – At Sea   

I’ve sought out a quiet place this morning to catch up on my journal – the place is/was deserted.  This is the aft lounge on Deck 5, or the room known as The Club.   Just after I’d settled in, the Captain announced there would shortly be a crew disaster drill and guess where all personnel have gathered?   You’ve got it – they’re all arriving here.   My quiet place is suddenly shattered and a beehive of activity.   Have been told that I would not have to move.   Lots going on that I cannot quite figure out!

Adolfo told me this morning that our neighbors on Deck 6 are leaving the ship early because they are not sleeping.   The creaks and groans have continued on.  I’ve gotten used to it, but many have not and are complaining daily.   The shimming continues by the carpentry department.   Another story we heard this morning is that during a period of rough seas, one cabin’s wood paneling dislodged, allowing the occupants a healthy look into the cabin next to them!

Apparently the ship is now scheduled to come out of the water in a couple of months.  The world cruise ends at Piraeus/Athens, and then has a two-week charter scheduled by a Japanese gentleman.   At the conclusion of the charter, the ship will be taken up out of the water and all of these problems supposedly fixed.   Would love to be a fly on the wall when this happens because I don’t really believe that the cause of all the creaking is truly known.   If any of you are thinking of booking on the Sojourn or Quest that are due to be launched later this year and next, would recommend that you wait for one year after the ship has been in operation.  But, please don’t misunderstand – the cruise is/has been wonderful, even with the problems.    I’m easy – someone is making my bed, picking up towels, cooking my food, cleaning up the kitchen, doing most of my laundry, and constantly striving to entertain and make my days pleasant – so what’s not to like?!?

Last night Marty Henne performed, singer, pianist extraordinaire and story teller.   He’s an old acquaintance from other Seabourn cruises and possibly the most talented performer (with the exception of George Sakkelariou – guitarist) we’ve ever heard on the Seabourn ships.   Last evening his program consisted of wonderful music from the 30’s, 40’s, 50’s, and 60’s – songs that became famous although the composers and lyricists were obscure – When You Wish Upon a Star, Somewhere Over the Rainbow were some he mentioned and if you can believe it, I cannot remember one song he performed!   My brain is dead!

There is lots of reporting to the head team here in the lounge - some of the crew is getting dressed down for not reporting properly or quickly enough – interesting.

Am shortly off to a Mac sharing session and then there’s Trivia – we take this game very seriously aboard ship!   This is such a tough life.

The Mac sharing session was fun and informative – a great way to learn how others do similar and different tasks.   We are hoping there will be more such sessions during the cruise.

Trivia No.10:  Who wrote the score for the movie “Arthur”?

Thursday, February 11, 2010 – At Sea       

Another day at sea, with nothing special planned except for my pedicure.   Think I’ll finally go out into the sun for the afternoon.   Have been very cautious thus far because the intensity of the heat and humidity has made being outside most uncomfortable.  Have actually burned right through my clothing when out on a tour.  Now that we are well beyond the two cyclones, the weather has settled a bit.  The sea is softly rolling this morning, not a white cap in site, mostly blue skies with wispy clouds here and there.    It’s a pretty day!

Trivia Answer No.10:  Burt Bacharach

Friday, February 12, 2010 - GONE!  DISAPPEARED!

If today were my birthday, could I skip it and lose one year?!?!?  Today we are crossing the International Date Line, so February 12 does not exist on this trip.  While there is a long and involved explanation about why and how this is done, to simplify, when traveling east you subtract one day and when traveling west you get that day back.  This is why we will leave Hong Kong on our way home on the afternoon of May 20 and arrive at SFO the same afternoon, even though it’s an 11-1/2 hour flight.   All of this happens at the 180 degrees meridian of longitude.    Given the above over simplified explanation, we are going directly to:

Saturday, February 13, 2010 – Still at Sea on our way to Russell – Bay of Islands

This morning is near perfect.  A slight sea breeze comes off a near glass-like Pacific Ocean.  In the distant horizon, all round 360 degrees, there are intermittent rain squalls – none so far have touched us.   Am sitting out on deck.  Although it is almost 10:00 a.m. the ship is just now coming to life.   The room stewards were pacing the hallways when we went to breakfast, waiting for their charges to waken and abandon their rooms so the necessary housekeeping could be accomplished.  Last night was, so far, the quietest since our departure in Los Angeles.  Because of the calm seas and the slow speed of the ship, the night was devoid of the usual creaks and groans.   Everyone is catching up on undisturbed rest!

Am having fun playing Blackjack in the casino, sometimes in the afternoon and/or evenings after dinner.   This week the cards have been very kind to me – am feeling quite a proficient player.   The men at the table this afternoon told me that for a woman, I’m quite a good player – hmmmmmmm.  Of course, now that I’ve written that last sentence, am probably doomed!

Adolfo is enjoying each and every Enrichment Lecture.   There are three each day we are at sea, with topics on upcoming ports of call or of an international nature.  Those lectures which are a bit off, or slow, or downright boring, make a great occasion for my husband to take a nap – and, of course, it’s in a darkened room so he believes he’s napping under everyone else’s radar.  Have attended a few that are of interest to me and always manage to find a seat in the very last row where the lights remain on enough for one to needlepoint.   If I miss something that I’m told was tremendously entertaining, then I can catch it recorded on a particular channel in our cabin.   So if we’re invited to dinner by one of the speakers who we didn’t bother to hear, we do our homework prior to dinner and watch it on the telly.  Note:  I’ve read parts of this journal and see that my words are being influenced by all of the Brits who surround us daily.   Those Brits include a few titled personages, i.e., Lady, Duchess, and the like, who mostly look unhappy – never smile.   Some border on downright rude!

Am firmly ensconced in a double chaise at the corner of the pool deck.   It’s a bit cool in the shade but necessary if I’m going to work on this journal and also finally be getting to a report on social networking for To Celebrate Life.   So far I’ve been brought a glass of ice water, a fruit smoothie and two little screen cleaners for my computer – all without asking!!   Am looking up at the upper pool deck that is one of the favorite walking places for those exercising fools.   They walk at forced march pace, around and around and around.   Don’t know why they don’t get dizzy and fall over!   One couple walks every morning for a solid two hours.  So far my exercise still consists of hand to mouth!  I am developing a very strong right arm!

The deck crew works constantly, either reapplying fresh white paint, or washing all parts of the ship once or twice daily to remove salt.   It’s truly amazing how quickly the salt builds up out on our balcony.

Can’t remember if I’ve already written about the lack of brass on this ship.   What I remember on previous cruises is that there was always someone polishing brass on the stairways and all sorts of other trim throughout the ship.   Instead of brass, all railings on stairways and other assorted trim is matte finish stainless steel.   Doesn’t require nearly the usual care of brass.

Some women out on the pool deck have the prettiest bathing suits and cover-ups.  When I shop for such things, I never see this beautiful assortment.

Well, guess I’ll call a halt for today.  It’s time to get ready for Trivia.

Sunday, February 14, 2010 – Russell – Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Once the capital of New Zealand, Russell lies nestled in the Bay of Islands, nestled under the hills known as Kororareka.  Today Russell is a quiet little town, home of New Zealand’s oldest surviving church built in 1835, where settlers took refuge during the 1845 sacking of the town.  Bullet holes were left in the walls as a reminder of these times.   

I don’t know how we missed that church in our wanderings, but was told later that the church seats were all most exquisitely needle pointed.   Darn!   I would have loved to see that.

The Duke of Marlborough, the fourth hotel to be built on the waterfront holds the oldest liquor license in the country, dating back to 1840.  But, there has been a hotel on the site since 1827, patronized in the early days by sailors and whalers.

On Maiki Hill, behind Russell, is a flagpole erected in the same position as the four that Hone Heke, the great Maori leader, cut down in protest over the treatment of his people after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.  Hone Heke was one of the first signatories of the treaty but became disillusioned when the crown did not live up to his understanding of the document he signed.

When the ship anchored in the Bay of Islands, all around us was the sweet odor of a native tree, currently in bloom, from which bees make very curative honey.   This honey is sold throughout New Zealand.  The tree has hundreds of tiny white flowers where you can see the bees swarming.

We wandered the town poking around the shops, photographing flowers – some of the largest hibiscus we’ve ever seen – and noting that there were lots of real estate offices selling homes, condos and lots.   This would be a wonderful runaway destination – the quintessential quaint and quiet village, and beautiful, too!

We noticed very small children swimming on the shore, seemingly untended.   Four little boys were jumping off 20-foot high pilings on the pier, perhaps aged from 7 to 12.   Each one took a position on one of four pilings, counted off and plunged – “One! Two! Three! Four!”   Then before we could catch our breaths, they were scrambling up the steep pipe ladder like lithe monkeys to repeat their performance.

The ship departed Russell at 7:00 p.m.   We were delayed because a large tour to Waitangi was late.   Finally everyone was accounted for and aboard ship.   We’re on our way to Auckland, New Zealand.

Trivia No.11:  Name all 7 Harry Potter Books.

Monday, February 15, 2010 – Auckland, New Zealand

Auckland is known as The City of Sails because its waterside location has fostered the locals’ love affairs with the sea.

Auckland’s heart beats to a Polynesian rhythm, its people a melting pot of European, South Pacific and Asian cultures and a strong indigenous Maori heritage.  This diversity brings with it an abundance of unique dining and shopping experiences.  The temperate climate here, easy access to the coast and variety of activities earn the city consistent top five rankings in international lifestyle surveys.

Auckland’s cosmopolitan city center is complemented by great escapes – to vineyards, forests, islands and beaches – within half an hour of downtown Auckland has all of the large-scale attractions you would expect of a big city – museums, galleries, zoos and family amusement parks.  Many are free or inexpensive. Auckland’s stylish heart is the home of many of New Zealand’s top fashion designers.  The block around High Street, the Chancery and Vulcan Lane hosts the boutiques of Karen Walker, Workshop, Zambesi and World, plus dozens of other designers.

You can sail in the harbor and bungy jump off the Auckland Harbour Bridge, ride a horse along sandy white beaches, or play a round of golf on a scenic peninsula.   That’s why Auckland is regularly named as one of the bet lifestyle cities in the world.

We chose a tour to the Waitakere Ranges, the beautiful, heavily forested mountains we could view in the distance from downtown Auckland.   This would include a visit to the Arataki Visitor Center, a “walk” in the bush (or forest) and a romp along a black sand beach.

What to wear on my feet and why this should become the major decision of the morning absolutely escapes me – except to plead “brain dead”!  Chose a pair of sandals (wrong!) – all I heard was “beach”.   We boarded a small bus that was almost full.   Outside there were people deciding whether or not to get on the few remaining seats of our bus or to begin filling the second bus behind us that would be coming with us.   Two people who are not very well liked because of their arrogance, rudeness and downright snottiness (hope you get the picture!) were at the front of the deciding group.   As they walked to the rear and chose the bus behind us, someone on our bus said with a laugh – “We just won the lottery!”  Everyone hooted and laughed and shared their individual stories as they’d encountered these two on the ship.

Our first stop was the Arataki Visitor Center, with beautiful and expansive views of the valley below, where a dam – Lower Nihotupu Dam - has been built to contain water for residents of Auckland and environs.  We could see all the way out to the sea and the Manukau Harbor. A carved pau (post) at the front of the visitor center and whakairo (carvings) inside are dominant features.  They were carved out of two kauri (pronounced “cow-u-ry”) trees taken from the great forest of Tiriwa (Waitakere Ranges) by Te Kawerau a Maki and depict their illustrious ancestors.

Then we were off to Piha in the Waitakere Ranges National Park and approximately a three-mile, round trip “walk” on the Kitekite (pronounced “kitty-kitty”) Track. (Luckily we didn’t know it would be 3 miles – until it was over!)   This is where I began to wish for my walking shoes! The weather was overcast and began to spritz a bit but once in the forest the canopy of the trees did protect us quite a bit.  The “walk” up to Kitekite Falls was quite steep and sometimes slippery.   Adolph was bothered a bit by the effort, but he did make it up and back.  Surprisingly, I made it up and back without much thought to my left ankle, which barely twinged.  By the time we got to the top, Kitekite Falls, the spritzing had developed into a full, soft, soaking rain.  Kitekite Falls is a very long, multi-layered, waterfall dumping into a beautiful dark pool at the bottom, good for swimming on another day.

During the walk we were shown the many different flora of the region and our guide, Warren, had pointed out the Kauri trees in this region that are being plagued by a sickness that will eventually kill the trees.  So far, the sickness has not been diagnosed.  It is believed to be a fungus coming from the soil.   In order to try and contain this problem, when leaving the forest our shoes had to be cleaned with a chemical so the dirt wouldn’t be tracked anywhere else.   If the cause is not soon diagnosed and cured, then this part of the forest could be closed to visitors anywhere from 5 to 20 years.

The Kauri tree is not only considered sacred to the Maori, but this tree lives to be over 1000 years old, grows a huge straight trunk, and has been harvested in the past for it’s wood.   In fact, it was Kauri wood that helped rebuild San Francisco after the 1906 earthquake and fire.  Many of the beautiful old Victorian in the city are built of Kauri.

There are no snakes in New Zealand and nothing predatory that can hurt you as you traverse the bush.  However . . . . we did smack several mosquitos and I’m a bit itchy from little no-see-ums.   Interestingly, there are no snakes allowed in any of the New Zealand zoo facilities because Kiwis don’t want to take the chance of one getting loose.

It continued to rain so we parked at the beach and looked at it for a while, but did not venture out.  Our guide did, however, with a large magnet in hand, and came back to the bus with all sorts of black sand attached to the magnet.   Because the black sand is a result of volcanic rock, the sand is full of iron.   Then it was back to the ship, lunch, and a well-deserved and very long nap.   We were plum tuckered out!

Spoke with Mama this morning.   She sounds good.   Am amazed that my iPhone knows how to make this phone call without my putting in any international codes.

We enjoyed a Tuscan buffet with shipboard friends up in the Colonnade room.   The food was very tasty, but there was a bit more salt that I’m used to.

Trivia Answer No. 11:  Sorcerer’s Stone; Chamber of Secrets; Prisoner of Azkaban; Goblet of Fire; Order of the Phoenix; Half Blood Prince; and, Deathly Hallows.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010 – At Sea

Am paying for that hike yesterday – ankle is very sore but am working through it.   Today will be doing lots of ankle stretches and massaging of the leg.   The day is grey and overcast – and damp.   Not at all a good day to sit outside.  Adolph is attending yet another lecture, I’m catching up with my journal and the day will be another lazy one prior to docking at Lyttleton and visiting Christchurch, New Zealand tomorrow.

 Wednesday, February 17, 2010 -  Lyttelton / Christchurch, New Zealand

The port of Lyttelton is a hive of activity – a huge container port with very large and tall yellow contraptions that move the containers to the proper row and when needing to be onloaded to a ship, moving them over to the ship’s side on the pier so that an even larger blue machine that is stationed right over the ship can pick them up and put them on the deck of a departing container carrier.  This same humongous blue machine also offloads the containers from arriving ships.

Our stateroom is on the pier side of the mooring space and the yellow machines are whizzing back and forth doing their job.   A really fun movie would be to film for about 30 minutes and then reduce it down by at least half so that the movement would be speeded up.   I was fascinated by the rules of the road (or aisles).   There must have been up to ten yellow machines operating at the same time.   All that was needed in this scenario was a bit of suitable music!

Lyttelton offers up a slightly offbeat harbor-side character (I’m not quite sure why this is, but that’s what is noted on our fact sheet!).  A tunnel linking Lyttelton to the heart of Christchurch city means a trip to this busy seaport and scenic destination is only a 15 to 20 minute ride.  A stroll around the town will introduce you to rich maritime history.  Lyttelton was the port of call for Canterbury’s “Four Ships” in the mid 1800’s, carrying the bulk of Christchurch’s first British migrants.

Christchurch is the largest city in the South Island, with a population of over 400,000.  The garden City is also arguably, the most attractive city in New Zealand with extensive inner city public gardens and parks, the shallow Avon river meandering through the city center and a pedestrian oriented downtown centered on Cathedral Square.

The first time we were about six years ago, we took a tour of the city center of Christchurch and Adolph punted on the Avon River.   Because it was raining then (and now!) I opted to wander around the shops.   Adolph went ahead and punted, but when it came time to get out of the boat, his knees wouldn’t allow him easy upward motion, so a very helpful young man helped him, only to be pulled down into the boat!   Adolph was not about to go punting again.

We opted instead to a tour of two boutique wineries.   The first one, Langdale Vineyard is set amongst lush lavender gardens was really wonderful because after the long bus ride, they had huge platters of cheese, bread, fruit, and crackers.  We began wine tasting at 10:00 in the morning so the food really made the wine tasting wonderful.  We all liked the wines there.   The second winery, Rossendale on the banks of the Hallswell River, gave us eight more wines to taste, in rather rapid fashion, and nothing to sober either the palette or our muzzy (by this time) heads.   Funny that most of us didn’t like the second winery, although we all agreed that the owner/ lecturer was very knowledgeable and we all learned new things about wine making from him.

While I opted out of a Seabourn Experience (a free outing compliments of Seabourn) afternoon outing, Adolph went to visit a Maori cultural center.   The center was a new venue and after returning reports, I can only deduce that Odyssey passengers were guinea pigs.   Extremely disorganized, contradictory direction as to where to go next, lots of waiting and things not finished.   Adolph, when it started to rain, decided to take the first bus back to the ship.  He was smart.  Others didn’t get back for nearly three hours and when they did, the line to get on the ship was quite long and it was pouring buckets.  Members of the crew were out along with the waiting line, holding umbrellas over everyone.  However, as I peeked out on my veranda, I saw the wind whipping the umbrellas inside out!   People arriving on the ship looking like drowned rats.

The most popular Maori dance here in New Zealand seems to be the one where everyone sticks out his tongue.   This is to scare away enemies.  So, with every bit of entertainment, we see this dance and the tongues of nearly everyone who lives in New Zealand!!!!

Had a nice dinner with shipboard friends last night.   The service was beyond slow.  Adolph opted out after much too long a wait for his second course, excused himself and went to bed.   Believe me when I state that a missed meal would not be a bad thing for 99% of the Odyssey passengers!  (that includes me!)

Seabourn still has some fine tuning issues for the staff and am wondering whether or not it’s the difference in size, just a little over doubling what the smaller ships carry.   Don’t think the same methods apply here.   As an onlooker, it would seem that some of the young wait staff are working very, very hard, and others are merely going through the motions.

Today we got word that grandson Joey, thinking he was Superman (well, he really is!) took a flying leap through a doorway an wound up with stitches and 25 staples in his scalp.  Oh my goodness!

Trivia No.12:  How many bottles are in a Methuselah of wine?

Thursday, February 18, 2010 – Wellington, New Zealand

The earliest name for Wellington, from Maori legend, is Te Upoko o te Ika a Maui.  In Maori it means “the head of Maui’s fish”.  Caught and pulled to the surface by Polynesian navigator, Maui, the fish became the North Island.  Evidence of early Maori settlement and cultivation can be found at sites all around the Wellington Peninsula.

Wellington, the capital city of New Zealand, is home to the seat of parliament.  But this vibrant and dynamic city also has many other capital claims including Wellington is home to most national theater, dance and performance companies, as well as the national museum, archives and library.  As a result there’s something on almost every night in Wellington – from pacific inspiration to local and international performance Culture capital, Creative capital and Events capital.

Today we chose a bus tour to Pencarrow and the Storm Coast.  Leaving Wellington, we followed the harbor past Petone where Wellington’s first settlers landed and then traveled along a coastline dotted with shipwrecks, quaint villages and quiet bays.  Parts of the road we traveled looked much like the ocean side road in Pacific Grove, California, except that homes are much nearer to the road as is the ocean on the other side of the road.   Behind the homes the mountains rise so steeply that there is absolutely no front or backyard. 

In order to arrive at Pencarrow Station, a early 2000 acre sheep and cattle farm and home to New Zealand’s oldest lighthouse, the bus driver had to have a permit to travel a private road and a key to enter the gate.  It seemed this road was maybe ten miles.  Perhaps it was shorter, but because it was rutted and full of potholes, it seemed interminable.   This was one bus you didn’t want to be on if you had a bad back.  Finally, when we’d lost all hope of seeing anything roadside except for wild goats and sheep, we spied Pencarrow Lodge atop a distant hill, one of Wellington’s best kept secrets.  

Fires roared, there was hot tea and coffee, finger sandwiches and lovely home baked cookies.  Then those intrepid passengers ventured out into the gale force winds to watch the sheep dogs demonstrate how they herded sheep.

The views from Pencarrow Lodge were spectacular, even with the sometimes pelting rains and the gale force winds.  The view stretches across the Cook Strait to the snow-capped Kaikoura Ranges in the South Island.  Situated at the entrance to Wellington Harbor, there is an unhindered view of the sea traffic moving in and out of the harbor.  Dolphins are often spotted in the waters, but not today.

Pencarrow Lodge is often the destination for weddings.  Guests are brought up by bus and the bride is brought in by helicopter – a helipad is right in front of the lodge – perhaps a five minute ride from Wellington.  One ridge over there is a small building known as the “Love Shack”, often used by the bride and groom after the wedding.   This is the only overnight accommodation at this location.   The Lodge itself is the home of the owners of Pencarrow Station.

Even with the bad weather, the views were wonderful.  Today’s photos will show you the vagaries of the weather.   One minute we were socked in, five minutes later it had poured and we had unlimited view, first the water was gunmetal gray because of overcast and then we beautiful turquoise waters because we had a brief glimpse of the sun – totally confusing! 

This country of New Zealand is truly beautiful and can only be eclipsed by the warmth and humor of its inhabitants.   It’s very evident why so many from other lands have chosen to settle in this “New World” country.

Broke my glasses this a.m. – though I do have a second pair – the lens popped out and I can’t get it to stay in the frame.  Wanted to try to get it fixed today, but the wind and rain is not conducive to going out again.   Think I’ll just catch up on photos and wait until we get to Melbourne.

We are losing some great new friends in Sydney and will miss them.   Hope to stay connected with two who live in California.   We’ll try to have meals with them while we’re out on the Tasman Sea.

Via email received two small movie clips from Stephen and Rose showing energetic Joey and his stapled scalp and another of Joey and Sofia with Bis Nona.   The marvels of modern technology . . . everyone looked well.   Joey and Sofie were eating two of the biggest, yummiest cookies I’ve ever seen.   Did Bis Nona get a bite?!?!

Trivia Answer No.12:  Eight bottles.

Friday, February 19, 2010 – At Sea in the Tasman Sea

Awake most of the night trying to hold on to the mattress.   We are on the first day of our three-day crossing on the Tasman Sea - roughest seas yet.  Ship traveling about 12 knots, winds over 50 miles an hour and huge, huge, swells with sprays coming over our balcony railing on Deck 6.  Am typing this lying down – afraid to try to stand up.  Believe we’re on the edge of another cyclone – this one named “Ray”.  All that is missing is that wonderful music from an old television series – “Victory At Sea”.   Is anyone out there old enough to remember that series?!?!?

Both Adolph and I have haircuts scheduled today, but if the seas don’t quiet down, we’ll probably cancel.   The salon is on Deck 9 which would mean motion worse than on Deck 6.   We’d probably come out with missing ears!  Adolph just cancelled.   I’ll wait until later to see if the seas calm in time for my appointment at 1:30 p.m.

Continued in (Part II).