January 2010 - Los Angeles to Hong Kong on Seabourn Odyssey (Part II)

Saturday, February 20, 2010 – At Sea in the Tasman Sea

The bumpy ride continued all of yesterday.   Don’t know how the waiters deliver all of the meals for guests dining en suite – you see them swaying down the hallways, heavily laden trays held in one hand above the shoulder – absolutely amazing.

Today it is quieter, still overcast and although not totally a smooth ride, enough of an improvement so that one is not wondering whether or not injury to the body is inevitable this day!

We have another guest celebrity chef aboard for the next leg – Chef Rimmer, who is the Executive Chef at The Wharf restaurant in Auckland, a gorgeous venue with a breathtaking view overlooking Waitemata Harbor.  One of the dishes he demonstrated this morning is a breast of duck salad that I will try when we get home.   Learned that the best way to cure breast of duck (and some fish) is with equal parts of sugar and salt.  After each cooking demo, guests are given the recipes to bring home – nice!  He also made a very nice corn soup – although delicious – extremely rich.  Perhaps this might be a good one-dish winter dinner.

The Tasman Sea is the large body of water between Australia and New Zealand, approximately 1250 miles across.  It is the southwestern segment of the South Pacific Ocean, named after the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman, the first recorded European to encounter New Zealand and Tasmania - later extensively navigated by Captain James Cook in 1770’s.

The first time we crossed this sea, perhaps seven years ago, we had eerily calm waters and sunshine.  At that time we wondered what all the fuss had been about as we sailed this crossing.   This time, however, we have more of the usual weather in the Tasman Sea.   Lots of motion, very grey skies, wind and even some rain.   It’s been a very good time for naps!

Trivia No.13:  What does NASA stand for?

Sunday, February 21, 2010 – At Sea in the Tasman Sea.

We have had two wonderful presentations by Gillian Lynne, C.B.D. and Peter Land over the last few days.   Gillian, a Brit, is an internationally renowned choreographer and responsible for the productions of “Cats” and Phantom of the Opera”, to name only a couple of her credits.  The two of them, husband and wife for over 30 years, have shared their theater experiences with a bit of singing thrown in.   They are extremely engaging and most well known by the Brits aboard ship – she especially.   However, after hearing her story, I can see that she has impacted the quality of theater internationally.

We are heading for Australia, Melbourne being our first stop.  The first human settlement in Australia started about 42,000 years ago and these people were the fore-fathers of the Aboriginal Australians.

Australia comprises of six states, two mainland territories and other minor territories.   Most of the Australian cities were developed in and around the 19th and 20th centuries so they resemble more of the North American settlements rather than the European ones.  Cities have a higher rate of urbanization and as a result most of the people live  in urban cities rather than small towns.  Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide are some of the most populous Australian cities.

We set our clocks back for the fifth time.   It’s getting confusing for me to figure out what time it is at home.   Am glad that I’ve made the decision not to change the times on my computer.   That way I can always get a correct reading and not try to reach Mama in the middle of the night!   So far my system is working!

Trivia Answer No.13:  National Aeronautics and Space Administration (most of us had Agency, instead of Administration!)

Monday, February 22, 2010 - Melbourne, Australia

This is our first time visiting Melbourne.   The original tour we signed up for was entitled “Old and New Melbourne” and would have encompassed much of the history of the city.    However, that tour has been cancelled so we’ve chosen to do a three-hour bus tour of “Panoramic Melbourne”.

Set around the shores of Port Phillip Bay, the city, laid out in a large rectangle and boasting a lively and cosmopolitan pulse, sits on the northern banks of the Yarra River, about five kilometers from the bay.

Melbourne is a planned city, a tidy, balanced grid of neatly angled streets.   But beneath this sense of everything in its place restraint lies a restless creative energy constantly pushing back at the City’s seeming conservatism. 

This is a city with something for everyone.  From chic fashion stores to using laneway cafes and trendy bars, botanic gardens to sports stadiums, elegant Victorian-era streetscapes to Manhattan-style skyscrapers, film and food festivals to galleries and opulent theaters.  Melbourne has an activity and attraction that will interest you.

I enjoyed the ride around the city, even though I nodded off for about 20 minutes – not certain what I missed.   We stopped at Fitzroy Park, a beautiful spot amidst skyscrapers.   This park boasted a miniature Tudor village, and a beautiful conservatory that housed gorgeous begonia in rich, pure colors.   This park is one of ten such parks in Melbourne.

Believe the highlight of the tour, though, was the Shrine of Remembrance which sits atop a hill in one of the beautiful parks.   It was built so that all main streets in Melbourne have views to it, so that no one will ever forget the sacrifice of men and women in the services who fought for freedom.

The Shrine of Remembrance honors service and sacrifice, and is Victoria’s memorial to the men and women who have served Australia in armed conflicts and peacekeeping operations throughout the nation’s history.  Built between 1928 and 1934, the Shrine was designed by returned veterans Hudson & Wardrop.  Their design was inspired by one of the seven wonders of the ancient world – the tomb of King Mausolus at Halicarnassus and was chosen from among 83 competition entries.

On the grounds around the Shrine are the Gallipoli Memorial, the Driver and Wipers Statue, the Legacy Garden of Appreciation, the Remembrance Garden, Cobbers, and Memorial trees dedicated to Victorian service units from the First World War onwards.

One enters and is immediately overwhelmed by 4000 mounted service medals along one wall, displayed under glass.  Each medal represents 100 Victorians who have served in war and peacekeeping operations and six who have lost their lives.  The impressive display includes a Victoria Cross awarded to Victorian born Captain Robert Grieve during the Battle of Messines.

The Sanctuary is the heart of the Shrine where thousands pay their respects to service men and women each year.  One can experience the quiet solitude of this room and participate in the half hourly Remembrance Ceremony.  The Stone of Remembrance is the center of the Sanctuary and is symbolic of a gravestone for those Victorian service men and women buried overseas and in unmarked graves.  Made of marble, it is sunk below the floor where no hands may touch it, and visitors must bow their heads to read the Biblical inscription:  GREATER LOVE HATH NO MAN.

As we left the shrine, one silly tourist was trying to strike a very glamorous (not!) pose for her husband to shoot, but she was against a wall that read it huge letters – “Lest We Forget”.  Either she couldn’t read, or altogether missed the purpose of this beautiful Shrine.

My overall feeling about what we saw of Melbourne is that I’d have liked a tour of the architectural wonders of this city, and the Shrine.  From the quirky, to the clever, to the downright glitzy and beautiful buildings, the many different examples of architecture only prove the diversity and cleverness of this city’s population.  One never knows what one will view around the very next corner.  Also, now that I’ve actually seen the Rod Laver Stadium, I can always picture it when watching future Australian Tennis Opens.

Moored along side our ship in Melbourne was Cunard’s new ship, “Queen Victoria”.   She’s HUGE!  Here’s a comparison of the Odyssey and the Queen Victoria.

Seabourn Odyssey

Tonnage:	32000
Number of Decks:	11 total (7 passenger)
Number of Lifts:	6
Length:	650 ft / 198m
Beam:	84 ft / 25.6m
Draft:	21 ft /6.4m
Decks:	11
Speed:	21 kts
Capacity:	450 passengers
Crew:	335

Cunard’s Queen Victoria

Tonnage:	90,000 gross tons
Length:	964.5 ft (294 m)
Beam:	106 ft (32.3 m) waterline, 120 ft (36.6 m) extreme (bridge wings)
Height:	205 ft (62.5 m) keel to funnel
Draft:	26.2 ft (8.0 m)
Decks:	16 total, 12 passenger
Speed:	23.7 kn (43.9 km/h; 27.3 mph) maximum, service at 18 kn (33.3 km/h; 20.7 mph)[2]
Capacity:	2,014 passengers
Crew:	900 officers and crew

Don’t think the Queen Victoria is nearly as beautiful as our ship, but then I am a bit prejudiced.   Both ships are parts of lines, Cunard and Seabourn, owned by Carnival.

Trivia No.14:  What is the highest waterfall in the world and where is it?

Tuesday, February 23, 2010 – At Sea

Today we have another full day at sea on our way to a two-day stay at Sydney.   Am looking forward to getting to this city as we are somewhat familiar with it and know that where the ship will be moored, we’ll have easy walking access to downtown Sydney.

Tomorrow Adolph has chosen to visit an animal habitat and I’m doing a guided walk along “The Rocks”, and then will set off on my own for a jaunt around the city.  We loose over 200 shipmates tomorrow who’ve been on from Los Angeles and a few from Ft. Lauderdale.   We’ll miss most of these new acquaintances and will hope that we see them again, either on another Seabourn vessel, or perhaps when/if they come to the San Francisco Bay Area.

Today at Trivia we noticed that there are many people coughing with what sounds to be a bronchial involvement.  Think it’s going around the ship and we’re hoping that it passes us by! 

After Trivia we had another Galley Lunch.   Tons of food is placed on long tables at one end of the dining room.   These items are mostly first course salads and tidbits that just get one started in the dining experience.   We skipped that part of it and went straight into the galley where there are stations set up all along the way with hot food prepared at stations where we could serve ourselves.   Thai, Asian, Italian, Fish and Chips, soups, Cheese Fondues, shots of vodka, cold meats, prawns in Pernod – if you can think of something more, it was probably served!

As if that were not enough, there is an extraordinary dessert table with all sorts of delicacies and of course, Baked Alaska!   For your chocolate lovers, almost every other dessert has something chocolate, either in the wrapping or the filling, or both.   Great fun, but now am limited to fish and vegetables this evening.   Were it not for the fact that we’ve been invited to a table of one of the enrichment lecturers, I’d probably opt for a bowl of soup in my room and early to bed!  However, this lecturer is an interesting and funny one, so we’re going!

Trivia Answer No.14:  Angel Falls in Venezuela.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010 – Sydney, Australia

A city of gorgeous harbor, seductive outdoor lifestyle and great natural beauty – that’s Sydney!  Kayak under the Sydney Harbor Bridge or wave at the Opera House as you ride a ferry across the harbor to Manly.  Discover Sydney’s colorful convict history in the harbor side quarter where it all began.  Just five minutes from Circular Quay, you can hear stories of hanging and haunting on a ghost tour, or climb the span of the Harbor Bridge.  In amongst the maze of sandstone lanes and courtyards you’ll find historic workman’s cottages and elegant terraces, art galleries, hotels with harbor views and Sydney’s oldest pubs.  The Rocks celebrates Australia Day on January 27, Anzac Day on April 25 and New Year’s Eve.  Sydney offers an amazing variation of fabulous food festivals and 24/7 fun.

We were up so early this morning.  We wanted to be out on deck at 5:30 a.m. to pick up the pilot and see one of the most beautiful harbors in the world as we sought out our moorage.   We finally did make it out on deck by about 6:15 a.m. and we were already within the large harbor, with helicopters circling overhead, quite close to the ship – made us a bit nervous!  However, we’ve been met with helicopters in several ports, taking photos and movies for their evening news.   Because this is a new ship, it is of interest.  It was really amazing that most of the ship’s passengers were up and about so early.

The day was once again overcast, though not too cold.   Will it rain on us today, or will it continue to just threaten?  Rather than dock at The Rocks as is usual in Sydney, we continued on past the beautiful, landmark Sydney Opera House, under the bridge and into Darling Harbor.  The pier Seabourn used on our last trip to Sydney years ago was occupied by a really HUGE P&O cruise ship, with a passenger list of 2000 plus.  Am writing this journal in the evening, and while we were told that the ship would move over to The Docks sometime between 9:00 and 10:00 this evening, nothing’s happened yet.

This morning we bid fond farewells to new friends we’ve made on this trip.  Bob and Mary from Tulsa, Carol and David from the Isle of Man and England, a lovely lady named Denise who was born in France but has made her life in England, and so many more people we came to like and appreciate have left the Odyssey to begin their journey home.  Two hundred passengers debarked and 200 more have taken their places, so we begin again getting to know many of the new passengers – it’s hard work!

Though the day was grey, it was warm and quite comfortable.   Adolph and I took the shuttle into the Queen Victoria building where hundreds of shops occupy floor after floor.   We had a mission to buy some pain gel that was recommended by Mama’s doctor and is sold over the counter in Australia and New Zealand.   We did find it at a chemist’s shop, bought a good supply, walked about a bit and then headed for the pickup spot where the shuttle bus would take us back to the ship.   We stood and waited for the shuttle past two posted pickup times (almost one hour) and finally went to hail a cab.   Just as we’d walked about one block, Adolph spotted the shuttle bus arriving, so we tore back and got on.   Back on the ship we had lunch, a glass of wine and a three-hour nap!   Good grief, all I do is sleep!

Our friends Lucie and Bob are joining the ship here in Sydney.  We sailed with them over ten years ago and are so happy and excited to be seeing them once again.   Left a note for them to be delivered to their stateroom and they called so we could meet for cocktails.   Because the weather is so wonderful tonight, we opted to eat out on deck at the grill and do a bit of catch-up.   There will be time for much more in the next three weeks.   After a nice dinner, Adolph retired and I took my computer up to deck 10 to attend a special music program which will begin in about 30 minutes.  Prior to the program beginning am catching up the journal.  The ship has just begun to move out of Darling Harbor and we are working our way over to The Rocks.   We’ll have a beautiful view of the major buildings in the Sydney skyline and a drop-dead view of the Sydney Opera House.

The night is clear, the lights in the buildings all around the harbor are asparkle, we are just approaching the lit bridge – the view is magnificent.   Imagine entering San Francisco Bay through the Golden Gate.  Instead of only seeing lit up San Francisco on your right as you enter the bay, surround yourself with that skyline.  Everywhere we look there are skyscrapers, apartments, restaurants, and ah yes, there’s the wonderful orange peel roof of the Opera House, all lit up.  The captain has timed this move so that our passengers exiting the opera tonight will see their ship slipping into the nearer moorage and in fact be able to walk back to the ship.

Adolph is off to an animal habitat tomorrow.   I was supposed to go on a “Rocks” walk, but due to not enough people signing up, the walk has been cancelled.   I’m doing it anyway.   Will pick up some literature and have a self-guided morning.

Trivia No.15:  How many eggs are used daily on the Seabourn Odyssey?

Thursday, February 25, 2010 – Sydney, Australia

Sydney Opera House was built between 1957 and 1973, and is a masterpiece of flate modern architecture. Created by a young architect from Denmark, Jorn Utzon, who gave the people of Australia an internationally admired and proudly treasured iconic landmark. 

In 2007 the Opera House was inscribed in the World Heritage List with the following quote:  “Sydney Opera House is a great architectural work of the 20th century.  It represents multiple strands of creativity, both in architectural form and structural design, a great urban sculpture carefully set in a remarkable waterscape and a world famous iconic building. . . . It stands by itself as one of the indisputable masterpieces of human creativity, not only in the 20th century but in the history of humankind”.

Believe (if my memory doesn’t fail me) that the architect was inspired by orange peels to create the unusual roof lines.   I’ve always loved oranges!

Breakfast on the back veranda of the Colonnade Restaurant is a true pleasure in this port.   Huge and beautiful buildings rise before us in downtown Sydney, while nestled ‘neath their shadows you find glimpses of the older and original architecture.  The contrasts are wonderful. To top off this perfect day while eating breakfast, we heard a loud squawk and looked up to see a large white cockatoo flying close by!

This morning we have bright sunshine, at least for a while.   Clouds are on the fringes, but the morning has been glorious.  We opened our curtains to a sunrise just behind the winged roof of the Opera House – gorgeous!

The harbor is alive, energetic and super busy.  Ferries of all size and description zip to and fro carrying businessmen and women and school children.  One ferry tooted at us because the kids aboard on their way to school were waving furiously at those of us eating breakfast.  So cute, six little boys in shorts, white shirts and ties waving in the wind, determined to get our attention.

Trivia Answer No.15:  4000 eggs daily!!!!   Oh my aching cholesterol!

Friday, February 26, 2010 – Cruising the Coral Sea

We sailed out of Sydney Harbor last evening at around 10:00 p.m., after a lovely dinner out on deck.   The city bit of goodbye while all buildings were lit and sparkling.  The skies were mostly clear with some whispy clouds moving around, an almost full moon, and visible stars.  Believe we were all sad to leave this city.

Woke to another grey morning and could see big storm clouds on the horizon in all direction but soon sun won out and we were traveling through turquoise blue seas and warm sunshine.   As I write this in mid afternoon, the clouds are back.   There has been so much wet and stormy weather in this part of the world that it’s been difficult to get away from it.  Can’t remember whether or not I reported that the Captain decided not to let us tender ashore at the island of Roratonga because of big swells and that we travelled on to our next stop.  Heard yesterday or the day before that the day after we left that spot, Cyclone Pat hit the island and devastated it.

Tonight’s a black tie night, so think I’ll try for a nap.  Made a huge mistake out on deck last night and when they brought around after dinner drinks, actually had my first one on this cruise – a Brandy Alexander.   Well, when I turned in I did go right to sleep for 45 minutes and then woke fully awake.   The rest of the night was a struggle.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

This morning in Seabourn Square . . . . Let me tell you about Seabourn Square, one of the best new features on this ship.   There is a coffee bar that would rival Starbucks or Peet’s – whichever you prefer – great coffees, teas and pastries – ah yes, the pastries. . . .  It’s the main gathering place, especially on days where the weather outside is less than perfect.   Also on this floor are the travel office, concierge, etc., and tons of seating space.   People come to work jigsaw puzzles, read the myriad newspapers and magazines and just generally to socialize.  It’s a super space.

After Adolph’s massage this morning he went to Seabourn Square for a latte, I found him there and had one of my own.   Soon a gentleman arrived and sat to my right and we began to chat.  He and his wife had been on the ship since Ft. Lauderdale.   Wondered if we’d just got on at Sydney – no, we’d been on since Los Angeles.   “Where have you been?!?!” I responded that we’d obviously been where he hadn’t been!   We both agreed that this would never have happened on the smaller Seabourn ships.   We chatted for about 45 minutes and were joined by Pat who wanted to make plans for dinner that night.   I included the chatty gentleman to my right and dinner for six was planned.   The chatty man, named David and married to Mary, is from a little town near Sheffield, England.   He was, perhaps, the friendliest and most outgoing Brit I’ve ever met on the ships – not that Brits are not friendly but usually a bit more reserved.

After a wonderful dinner in the dining room, David disappeared for a little while.  We assumed that he’d gone to the gent’s room.   He returned and we proceeded to order dessert, when suddenly a gorgeous dessert plate appeared before each of us.  Large figs, cut in eighths lengthwise, saute’d in a mixture of reduced port, honey and lemon zest, still warm, and perhaps one of the most delicious and simple desserts I’d ever eaten – for those who wanted ice cream, that was also available.    David had gone to his room and raided his refrigerator for these beautiful fresh figs that he and Mary had purchased at the fish market in Sydney – which is obviously more than just a fish market.  He’d brought them to the dining room and asked the Maitre’d, Bozi, to please make something special for us.  This is one recipe that I’ll try at home.

Of course, you know that our major focus aboard ship is what will appear at the next meal!   While trying to stay reasonably fit, use the stairways whenever possible, (I still have not set foot inside the gym!) upcoming menus and who will be our dinner or lunch partners is always paramount in our minds.   So of course, during dinner we spoke of food – what else!

David had another wonderful idea and asked when we’d all be free to do this group of six once again – the Capurro’s, David and Mary from Sheffield, and Pat and Homer from Connecticut/Florida – an awesome group!  We all agreed on Monday, March 1 and David arranged for a slow roasted rack of veal.  Seabourn is quite wonderful in that if you give them enough notice, usually only 24 hours is required, they will come up with almost anything you request.   We’ve seen groups dining on tapas and paella when neither was on the menu.

Trivia No. 16:  The Seabourn kitchen makes the most delectable skinny breadsticks, coated with sea salt.   They have always been favorites on all of the Seabourn vessels.  How many breadsticks do you think we consume each day?

The Coral Sea is a marginal sea off the northeast coast of Australia.  It is bounded in the west by the east coast of Queensland, thereby including the Great Barrier Reef, in the east by Vanuatu (formerly the New Hebrides) and by New Caledonia, and in the north approximately by the southern extremity of the Solomon Islands.  South of it is the Tasman Sea.

Between 48 and 58 million years ago, the Queensland continental shelf was uplifted, forming the Great Dividing Range, and continental blocks subsided a the same time, thus forming the Coral Sea Basin.   This sea saw many famous naval battles during World War II and was critical in the ultimate outcome of that war.

Today is sultry and quite warm.  I have on walking shorts for the first time since Tahiti.  Should be a good day to sit out on deck, or on our balcony. 

Think I’ll close this episode and organize photos to post on line.

Trivia Answer No.16:  1,200!!   We are a hungry bunch!

Sunday, February 28, 2010 – Cruising the Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system composed of over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching for over 1,600 miles in an area of approximately 133,000 square miles.  The reef is located in the Coral Sea off the coast of Queensland in northeast Australia.

The Reef can be seen from outer space and is the world’s biggest single structure made by living organisms – a structure composed of and built by billions of tiny organisms, known as coral polyps.  The Great Barrier Reef supports a wide diversity of life and was selected as a World Heritage Site in 1981.  CNN has labeled it one of the seven natural wonders of the world.   The Queensland National Trust has named it a state icon of Queensland.

The day began as overcast, but always warm, with the usual threatening clouds surrounding us on all horizons.  This seemed a very good morning for a computer session at Seabourn Square where I could partake of a good mochalatte.   Of course, those of you who know me also know that when I drink coffee I chatter more than usual, about which I warned a very nice lady who sat next to me.   Told her that when I was a child, even prior to coffee, Papa told me that I was undoubtedly vaccinated with a phonograph needle!   She laughed and said I’d sat next to the right person.  Her son tells her regularly that she speaks for all of England! 

Shortly after a light lunch on the pool deck, Adolph went down to the cabin for a rest and I joined our friends, Bob and Lucie, for a chat that lasted ‘til almost 3:00 p.m. Must relate a bit about Bob and Lucie.  Bob has one son from a prior marriage.  Lucie was unable to have children of their marriage.  Both have very limited extended family, but establishing their own family was important to them.   Instead of a conventional family, what they’ve accomplished is so exceptional it bears mention.  Through the years, Bob and Lucie have sponsored and helped young people along the way – some “children” were already in their adulthood – some were from foreign lands.  For instance, they’ve put one through Johns Hopkins Medical School and she’s gone back to her native country of Thailand to serve there medically.  What they’ve done is create a “family” that often gathers from all over the globe.   Bob and Lucie are lovely, interesting, fun people – so happy that we are renewing an old acquaintance with them.

Back to our on-deck chat - around 2:00 we moved under cover because the skies began to spritz.   Suddenly every cloud in the sky focused on us and opened up to empty their contents – they bulls-eyed us!  The good part of this story is that all of the rain did cool us down a bit.  The decks were awash with so much rain that the side deck drains could not cope and stairways to our deck were poring water from the above deck and looked like waterfalls.  We later learned that the main inside staircase was totally flooded.  We splashed about in the puddles on deck like children – it doesn’t take much for me to be a child again!

Suddenly the ship’s foghorn began a series of blasts, about one every two minutes.   Bob said he didn’t like the sound of that and I mentioned that it reminded me of the Titanic!   We decided to call a halt to our conversation and retire to our cabins.   I’d barely entered our stateroom when the Captain announced over speakers that the foghorn was continuing to sound because we were diverting our course on our way to Cairns and were instead on our way to rescue a pleasure craft about six miles away that had sent a mayday signal.   The troubled craft could transmit but not receive any message.   The foghorn was a way of letting them know we were on our way and getting closer.

Most guests congregated in the forward lounge and added their eyes to the search on the horizon.   Still raining and some fog, it was difficult to see much, but water, water and more water.   A helicopter joined us from the mainland of Australia to aid in spotting the craft from above.  We searched for nearly an hour with no success.  Then the Captain came on the speakers again and told us that the helicopter had found the troubled craft, was getting the five men off via the aircraft and we were relieved of the search.   He thanked all passengers who’d added their eyes to the search and informed us that we would correct course and once again be on our way to Cairns.

In all the cruises we’ve taken, this is a first.

Dinner was pleasant as we were celebrating the birthday of Erlinda, who we’d met at the beginning of the cruise.  Antony, an assistant Maitre d’ prepared, tableside, Bananas Foster – flambe’d – the works!   Delicious!

Trivia No.17:  What is the name of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s new show?

Monday, March 1, 2010 – Cairns, Australia

On a cruise we did years ago when we first visited Australia and New Zealand and then finished our cruise in Fiji, we boarded the Seabourn Spirit in Cairns.   So, we’d been here before, very briefly.   However, I was unprepared for the tremendous growth of this small port city.  Lots of gleaming white, new modern buildings, either condos or apartments, pretty privately owned pleasure boats in the harbor, and even a fancy mall with high-end stores such as Gucci, etc.

Cairns is a regional city in Far North Queensland, Australia.  The city itself was named after William Wellington Cairns (the then Governor of Queensland).   It was formed to serve miners heading for the Hodgkinson River goldfields, but experiences a decline when an easier route was discovered from Port Douglas.  Cairns later developed into a railhead and major port for exporting sugar cane, gold, metals, minerals and agricultural products from surrounding coastal areas and the Atherton Tableland region.

We left for a tour at 9:00 a.m. by bus, to catch the Kuranda Train.  Despite the oppressive heat, the views out toward the coast from the train were spectacular.  Many points of interest throughout The Barron Gorge caught and held our interest.  Particularly beautiful were Stoney Creek Falls and the Barron Gorge Hydro-Electricity Power Station where a dam created a very long fall of water generating power.  Beautiful views extended out through verdant valleys and on through the water to Green Island in the far distance, where there is a beautiful resort.   Because of lots of rain, this area is so very green and lush.   Elkhorn ferns are attached to the tree trunks, as are orchids and other plants.  Believe such attaching flora is called “epiphyte”.  During September, many of these flowering plants are in bloom and the area must be truly glorious.

After reaching the top of the railroad track in the mountains at Kuranda, we detrained back on to our bus that had come up to meet us and traveled to another part of the bush - a rain forest - where we boarded “Amphibious Ducks”, used in World War II.  Manufactured in Michigan in the early 1940’s amphibious ducks, a major part of the WWII effort, were made by American women.  Sixty-eight years later, with a bit of rehabbing, they were found to be the best vehicles for use in the rain forest.  Instead of operating on the usual petrol they were refitted to use LPG, which I assume is Liquid Propane Gas - more cost effective and so much better for the environment.

While I would have enjoyed walking around the town for a bit when we came back from our tour at 1:00 p.m., we were just too tired and sapped of strength by the heat and humidity.  After a very light lunch, I conked out for two and a half hours.

Then it was the night for our dinner arranged by David.  Two Brit couples and two American couples enjoyed a lovely evening with specially prepared rack of veal – delicious.   It’s truly most unfortunate that there doesn’t seem to be much, if any, food that we don’t deem “delicious”!!

Trivia Answer No.17:  “Love Never Dies” – (I know, it sounds like a James Bond movie!)

Tuesday, March 2, 2010 – Cruising the Great Barrier Reef in Torres Strait

The Torres Strait is a body of water which lies between Australia and the Melanesian island of New Guinea.  It is approximately 93 miles wide at its narrowest extent.  To the south is Cape York Peninsula, the northernmost continental extremity of the Australian state of Queensland.  To the north is the Western Province of Papua New Guinea.

There are at least 274 islands here known as the Torres Strait islands, of which only 17 are have present-day permanent settlements that lie in the strait.  The islands are populated by Melanesians related to the Papuans of adjoining New Guinea.

It’s an easy day today – eating and resting and trying to stay indoors.   Truly, I don’t understand those guests who bake out in the heat day after day.  I know getting tanned for some is very important but rather than body lotion, some of these ladies and gentlemen are going to need shoe polish!

The sea is blessedly calm.   We can see beautiful turquoise water both to the right and left of us as we traverse the Great Barrier Reef.

Trivia No.18:  For which sport is The Thomas Cup contested?

 Wednesday, March 3, 2010 – Darwin, Australia

Darwin is the capital city of the Northern Territory in Australia.   Situated on the Timor Sea, Darwin has a population of 120,652, making it by far the largest and most populated cit in the sparsely populated Northern Territory, but the least populous of all Australia’s capital cities.

Attended a lecture yesterday given by Alan Patching, one of Seabourn’s guest enrichment lecturers.   He is an articulate Aussie, loves his country and imparts that in his lectures.  Learned some interesting things about Darwin.

Did you know that just two months after the attack on Pearl Harbor by the Japanese in December of 1941, the same sort of attack happened in Darwin?

In early February of 1942, a Japanese reconnaissance plane was spotted near Darwin so an evacuation of women and children was ordered.  On February 9, from the same aircraft carrier that launched the attack on Pearl Harbor, planes came in to Darwin and decimated the Australian fleet in the harbor.   The Japanese strategists, pilots and commanders were some of the same that had launched the Pearl Harbor attack.

This attack took Darwin mostly by surprise because of the general relaxed attitude of the Aussies, and because Darwin was expecting a large flight of America planes.   When the first planes were seen coming in to Darwin that February morning, the spotters just assumed these were the Yanks expected.

Japanese wanted desperately to control the north of Australia because of the seaways that it could command.  Forty-six ships in the harbor of Darwin were lost.  Naval defense efforts of Aussies were in total disarray.

On their way to Darwin the Japanese had taken Singapore.  Of the 2,000 men and 66 women left in Darwin, all had to evacuate immediately.   They were allowed one suitcase each.  Everything in the way of domestic animals, pets, livestock, etc., were euthanized by their owners, thereby keeping the Japanese from using these food sources.  In the way of animals, evacuees were allowed to take with them only ducks and chickens.

Because of Darwin’s isolation and the fact that there was no road connection to anywhere else, tremendous stress developed in the Darwin population and caused a high rate of heart disease.  This heart disease continued to be evident in ensuing years.

Major export in this area is mining and energy.   Growth over last years has been spectacular – two to three percent annually – tourism is now going through the roof.

While we did have a tour scheduled for Darwin, it was cancelled due to lack of interest.   The weather probably had a lot to do with the cancellation.   Temperatures soared today, nearly 100 degrees with humidity in the 90 percentiles.

There is something going through the ship like wildfire.   Most people have some degree of cough and sound like heavy smokers.   I, on the other hand, have been sounding like a “whiskey tenor”.   My voice has been a deep basso the last few days and I now have a developing cough.   No cold, just a cough, more like bronchitis.  We do have antibiotics with us and since everyone going to the ship’s doctor for this condition is on antibiotics, I began my regimen this a.m.    Have holed up in the stateroom with room service for 24 hours in the hope that liquids (lots of honey and tea) and rest (how can I rest any more than I already do!).

As a result of feeling really s****y, did not get off the ship in Darwin.   Adolph thought the weather would truly do him in, so he stayed aboard as well.   Those who came back to the ship after an afternoon in Darwin looked as though they’d been raked over the coals and left for goners!

So my day today has been filled with in-suite movies, lots of needlepoint and tons of liquids.

Adolph has left the room early to go to the pre-dinner cultural aboriginal show.   A local family had been contracted to perform for 45 minutes.   Told him I would join him as soon as I was a bit more put together.   Fifteen minutes later as I left the room and turned toward the Grand Salon, everyone was coming out of the show.   Could it have begun earlier thank posted?

Later Adolph related the story that the men had performed the long neck turtle dance, and then the fishing spear dance.   When they realized that only 10 minutes had elapsed, they once again performed the long neck turtle dance.   In one of the dances, one of the men played the didgeridoo, that long wooden instrume that makes haunting sounds.  The didgeridoo in this group was nothing more than a plastic pipe!

Needless to say, the Cruise Director was most embarrassed and invited guests to have their photos taken with the “dance” troupe.   We found out later that the group was hired by the Seabourn Travel Agent out of the head office in Florida.  He’d obviously been royally taken!  Our cruise director handed over the check for the contracted amount and as soon as the troupe left the ship, he stopped payment on the check.   There should be some interesting stuff coming out of this experience!

Dragged myself up to The Grill on the Pool Deck for dinner.   Don’t have to get the least bit fancied up – it suited us both tonight.   Cough . . . cough . . . cough . . . .

Trivia Answer No.18:  Badminton.

Friday, March 5, 2010 - Cruising the Timor Sea

Cough . . . cough . . . cough . . .  Can’t tell you anything about the Timor Sea – before today, didn’t know it even existed!   We are at sea today and tomorrow.   Hot and muggy weather continues, as does my fitful coughing!

Played Blackjack for a while this afternoon with a lovely fellow passenger lady, think her name is Donna.   After placing a spectacularly large bet and losing, Donna remarked:  “I lost my mind some time ago, and don’t miss it a bit!”   Then after a slight pause:   “I don’t intend looking for it, either!”   There was laughter all ‘round.

Another dinner at The Grill on the Pool Deck, so we could be majorly casual – just don’t feel up to primping for the dining room.

Cough . . . cough . . . cough . . .

Trivla No.19:  What is Nelson Mandela’s nickname?

Saturday, March 6, 2010 – Cruising the Flores Strait on our way to Padang Bay, Bali

Still coughing . . .  We woke to an overcast day, in and out of rainsqualls and the constant hot and muggy temperatures continuing.  When will we have a bit of cool – am longing for San Francisco fog!

This is my third day on antibiotics.   Don’t feel too badly during the daylight hours, but as soon as I recline, even semi-recline, the coughing commences.   Waiting for the gift shop to open to see what they have that might stop the constant noise.

Today’s another easy day at sea, of course with a Trivia session at noon, and then a hair appointment later in the day for color and cut.  Have found two extremely talented people in the Salon – Jo, for my mani/pedicures and Rudy, for my hair.   Both are from South Africa and I’d like to take them home with me.   I’ve never experienced such good salon work on a cruise ship.

Tonight we celebrate my birthday with Lucie and Bob in Restaurant 2.   Adolph wanted me to get a big table and invite lots of people but am just not up to it.   So it will be a quiet but wonderful dinner with two exceptional old cruising friends.

Does anyone out there know about John Hardy jewelry?   Lucie and Bob are fans (and good customers) and because John Hardy has his main store and lives in Padang Bay, Bali, Lucie and Bob are going there for their outing tomorrow.  JH is opening up the store just for them (It’s Sunday in Bali).   Have gone online to look at his work and it is gorgeous.   Have my eye on something and Lucie will check it out for me.

Adolph and I were scheduled for a tour to an ancient temple in Bali, but Seabourn has offered an additional special event tomorrow that truly piques my interest.  I’ve signed up for it, forsaking the temple (Adolph will be going alone!).   Early tomorrow morning I will leave the ship for a very fancy hotel where I, with several others, will go to a half-day Balinese cooking school.   Believe the event also includes shopping with the Chef at the local market for ingredients with which we will be cooking.   The rest of the afternoon we are invited to loll around the pool area of the hotel before returning to the ship.  Thus far I haven’t done much lolling – looking forward to it!

While I don’t intend to come home and cook Balinese food, am always interested in learning new cooking techniques.   Who knows, I might even invent a new cuisine – Balitaliano!!   Or maybe, Balitali?    Any suggestions as to what it might be named?

. . . and coughing . . .

Trivia Answer No.19:  Madiba is Mandela’s nickname.

Sunday, March 7, 2010 – Padang Bay, Bali

. . . and more coughing . . .

Bali is renowned for its diverse and sophisticated art forms, such as painting, sculpture, woodcarving, handcrafts, and performing arts.  Balinese percussion orchestra music, known as “gamelan”, is highly developed and varied.  Balinese performing arts often portray stories from Hindu epics such as the Ramayana but with heavy Balinese influence.  Bali boasts one of the most diverse and innovative performing arts cultures in the world, with paid performances t thousands of temple festivals, private ceremonies, or public shows.

We have been told that Bali is unique in that it is primarily a Hindu culture, while the remainder of Indonesia has a heavy Moslem influence.

Today was really fun.   We left on our tour at 8:00 a.m.   I was so happy to see that Pat Scoville was one of the other participants.   We have fun together.    There were five of us.  Four women and one man piled into a van together with the chef who would be teaching us later, a guide and driver.   Ambara, our guide was a beautiful man with a lovely smile, soft-spoken, and pretty good English.  He showed us the Water Palace, once home of the local king, monkeys along side the road, huge vistas where we could see limitless rice paddies and finally, in a little village up on the hill, the public market.  We appeared to be the only Caucasians in this entire village.  

Into the market we wended our way through narrow aisles crowded with local Balinese, following the chef as he pointed out to us the various spices and foods of the regions.   Many of the vendors had fish or chicken out on a tray waiting for it to be purchased.  The chicken was often populated with flies – ugh!   I know, we are spoiled in American super markets.  Had to be very careful navigating the aisles.   Light was extremely poor and there were periodically deep ditches which we had to jump down and over.   Every time I poised to take a photo, someone would duck under my arm and around me, thereby jiggling the camera.   Some would-be good shots are blurred, but may include them anyway.

The very last bit in the market, I will always remember.  The egg vendor, out in the sun which was actually a few degrees cooler than inside the airless market but still somewhere in the 90’s, with hundreds and hundreds of eggs for sale.   I couldn’t help but think that some of those eggs would at least be soft boiled at time of sale.

Back into the van we trundled, off to see more of Bali and be on our way to the hotel where we would all take place in a Balinese cooking class.  Believe the name of the hotel is RamaCandidasa.   Our chef was named “Madi”.   We arrived in the open-air dining area to find a kitchen there as well.   At a table in front of the stove were five chopping boards, the biggest knives I’ve ever seen, and lovely traditional cooking pots from Lombok for the rice.   In a platter, beautifully arrayed were all of the ingredients for making a fish soup, shredded chicken dish and fish wrapped in banana leaves to be grilled over what appeared to be little hibachis.

We chopped and chopped.  Some of the ingredients were new to me, but if I can remember some – they were ginger root, galangal (a ginger like root), candlenut (like a big, raw macadamia), chili pepper, garlic, lemon grass, tamarind fruid and more.   All chopped (more like minced) ingredients were placed in a low, large stone bowl.   We were then handed big stones and told to mash it all up – hard work!   This mashed mixtures was to be the seasoning for all the dishes made today.  As Madi explained it to us, the flavors of each dish depended on how much of the mixture was put into each recipe.

Then came the fish.   White fish filets, which we cut into one-half inch cubes and mixed with lots of the mashed spices.   The chef then took pieces of chicken and poached them quickly in water, plunged them into a bowl of ice to cool down.

The seasoned, diced fish was put into a pot on the stove and the chicken water added to it – also a bit of olive oil and bay leaf.   The soup was now on its way!

As soon as the chicken was not too hot to handle, we shredded that.   It, too, went into a pot – a separate one – with some of the seasoning added and a bit of olive oil.  It was stirred over heat so that the seasonings would permeate the chicken meat.

With the last of the fish filets, we cut those up into pieces approximately 1-1/2 by 1 inches, mixed with some of the seasoning mash, added wedges of fresh tomato and wrapped it up in banana leaves, bamboo tooth-picked the ends and they went onto the hibachi.   Our lunch was almost ready.

Madi had prepared rice in the Lombok cooker and also one other dish that we had nothing to do with.   In the market we’d seen string beans that appeared to be an average size of two feet long.  These beans were cut into two inch pieces, either saute’d or parboiled and cooked with bits of cabbage and bean sprouts.   Also added to it was a little bit of  the seasoning mash.   

Luncheon was served.   We were so pleased with ourselves.   Now, to the taste of it all.   The fish soup that had the most of the spices was delicious, however, it sent me into paroxysms of coughing.   Every time I had a sip, had to leave the room and go cough.  It was delicious, but not fun!  The shredded chicken was really tasty, the veggies great, the fish in banana leaves super, and the rice a perfect foil for it all.   For dessert, the chef had prepared a rice pudding made of black rice.   It was really an odd flavor and an even odder color but we all ate every bit of it.    All of this was washed down with cold Pentang beer.   All of us professed to never drink beer, but the weather and the food was so hot that we all decided it had to be the beverage of the day!

If anyone is interested, I am coming home with the recipes we made today and will be happy to make copies and send to you.   They are:

• Fish Soup Amlapura style “Sup Ikan Laut Amlapura”

• Fish Wrapped in Banana Leaves a la Rama “Pepes Ikan a la Rama”

• Shredded Chicken Sambal “Be Siap Mesitsit”

After lunch, we were invited to “loll” around the pool.   However, three of us were hot, tired, sticky, and smelled of garlic and ginger.   Our fingernails and polish were totally stained from one of the ingredients we’d chopped and we longed for the aircon of the ship and a cleansing shower.   We tagged on to a taxi ordered by part of the crew who’d had lunch at the hotel.  The Aussie husband and wife in our cooking group decided to stay on and swim.

Getting off and on the ship in this port had unique rigors.   We had to navigate hordes of Balinese adults and children hawking their wares.   They do not take “no thank you” for an answer.  Although there were some beautiful pieces of fabric that I might have purchased, was totally turned off by the aggressive sales techniques.  Once anyone purchased anything, it meant taking out a wallet and that wallet was a magnet to everyone selling.   That person was mobbed.  Pat and I finally told one woman that we had no money, to which she replied:   “You came on that ship and you have no money?”   HAH!  Good line!

Adolph’s day was good, also very hot, and all I’ve heard from him is that he parted company with the tour and sat under a tree when he saw that there were one hundred or more steps he had to navigate in order to see the ancient temple.   Also heard that he’d been outfitted in a pink sarong to cover his Bermuda short clad legs.   I will let the photos speak for themselves and hope that he can remember what he took photos of so that I can name them!   Should you hear the story of this day in the future, the number of stairs in question might increase mightily.   It began at 100, which I consider to be quite truthful.   At the second telling of his day, the number of stairs had already increased to 1,000!

Believe I might like to come back to Bali, perhaps at a different time of year when there is not quite so much humidity.

There are tons of motorcycles on this island, some riders diligent and wearing helmets, but so very many without them.  Often you see two and three riders astride a motorcycle.  As in India, we saw covered trucks filled with natives, probably going to or from their jobs – all passengers always smiling at us.

Trivia No.20:  State what each of these sets of initials stands for?  ATM; CD-ROM; NABISCO; VSOP.

Monday, March 8, 2010 – Cruising the Java Sea

Another delightful day at sea – still coughing.

Had lunch today with Lucie and Bob.    She asked if I wanted to see what she’d chosen for me at John Hardy yesterday.  Is the Pope Catholic?!?!   “Of course!”, said I.

Lucie ran to their stateroom and brought out the JH bag.  Seeing what she’d been wearing before their visit to John Hardy and subsequently having a discussion about what I’d been searching for, I had full confidence that she’d bring me something that I loved.   She had.    Beautiful, large, gold loops, with a tiny bit of diamond pave.   Oh my!  Have been looking for a pair of earrings like this for so long - earrings that did not cost the earth.   Have worn them the last two nights and know I will enjoy them for a long while.   These earrings will also remind me of the generosity of Lucie’s time in finding exactly what I’d hoped for.   Thank you, Lucie!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010 – Still in the Java Sea – Re-crossing the Equator

More festivities on deck today to commemorate crossing the Equator.   New crew will be sacrificed at the feet of King Neptune.   Though lots of fun, saw the messy ceremony once already so will give this one a pass.   Would much rather go to the cabin and cough!!!  - Yep, still coughing!  One of the crew has made me a magic elixir, though it’s not working yet, here’s the recipe.

• Thinly slice one carrot, add brown sugar, a little water and let it all macerate for a while.   Then you can refrigerate.   When coughing, take a spoonful of juice and carrot.

Am convinced that I could take this potion for one month, or at least until I turn orange.   However, my cough will still be here

Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - Still cruising in the Java Sea

Sunrises and sunsets have continued to be mind bogglingly beautiful.   Adolph still is taking photos of each and that’s why almost every day we have quite a few of each!

Another day at sea prior to arriving at Brunei - we are on the home stretch of this cruise.   This time next week we will be in Hong Kong.   The time has flown.   With very little encouragement, I could stay on until Athens – only another month or so!

Who will pick up my towels, make my bed, clean my bathroom, cook my meals, put my napkin on my lap, etc.?  I am truly spoiled and loving every minute of it!

Trivia Answer No.20:  ATM:  Automated Teller Machine; CD-ROM:  Compact Disc-Read-Only Memory; NABISCO: National Biscuit Company; VSOP:  Very Special Old Pale.

Thursday, March 11, 2010 – Muara, Brunei

Brunei is a country (about the size of Delaware) located on the north coast of the island of Borneo, in Southeast Asia.   Apart from its coastline with the South China Sea, it is completely surrounded by the state of Sarawak, Malaysia, and in fact is separated into two parts by Limbang, which is part of Sarawak.

Life here is influenced by two religions – Hinduism, but mostly Islam.  The country regained its independence from the United Kingdom on January 1, 1984 and is a member of the Commonwealth of Nations.  During the early 20th century the Southeast Asian nation experienced an economic boom and underwent rapid development.  Economic growth during the 1970’s and 1990’s, averaging 56% from 1999 to 2008, has transformed Brunei Darussalam into a newly industrialized country.

Coming in to the port of Muara I spotted a huge oil platform out at sea.   In 1967, Sultan Bolkiah was crowned, succeeding his father, Sir Omar Ali Saifuddin, who had abdicated.   During his reign, exploitation of the rich Seria oilfield had made the sultanate wealthy.  Brunei has one of the highest per capita incomes in Asia, and the sultan is believed to be one of the richest men in the world.  In August 1998, Oxford-educated Prince Al-Muhtadee Billah was inaugurated as heir to the 500-year-old monarchy.

Adolph and I are off to do separate events today.   He’s going on a tour of Brunei this morning which includes an “introduction to the sultanate”, and I’m going to “afternoon tea and royalty” – whatever that means.  Will report back later.

It’s later . . . Adolph’s tour was strenuous in that they had to climb in and out of low slung boats.  There were some on the trip who almost didn’t make it!  Although one if often frustrated by someone who has limited strength, you must admire their fortitude in continuing to try.   However, when it’s hot and sticky, others often get grumpy.

Adolph’s tour included a tour of the largest water village in the world.   They only saw a very small portion of it and never really entered the maze of “homes” on stilts.   However, they did have tea in someone’s water home.   Lucie and Bob were also on that tour.  Lucie said that the home had four sitting rooms and she thought that a bit odd.   Wondered if the “home” had been set up for tours and was not at all representative of other homes in the area.   We saw that same area from the bus while driving across the river from the village.   I thought it looked pretty rickety and sort of slummy.   Wondered how some houses even stayed upright.

At any rate, they served tea which Adolph was afraid to drink.  We’d just received notice aboard ship that there is a stomach virus affecting travelers worldwide and we note that all surfaces on the ship have been wiped down with antiseptic solution.  We are to report to the doctor at the first sign of stomach trouble.  Wonder if eating too much qualifies!

Back to the water home – Adolph noted two ceremonial, heavily gilded, chairs that were set up in such a way as to be a shrine.   When asked, the hostess said they were the matrimonial chairs of the husband and wife.   Adolph was invited to sit in one and have his photo taken, which he did – you’ll see the photo!

As he was coming back, I was leaving for my tour.   We were on a regular sized bus, with a 12-inch screen over the driver’s head, and asked to view the slide show.   Those of us in the back of the bus could barely see the photos, and certainly couldn’t read the information on each slide!  There was a succession of royals, some young, some old, some long gone, and some just babies.

Then the guide began to speak and I knew we were in for a touch time.   He was a lovely, pleasant man, but his English was atrocious.   Caught just every third word so following the history of the royals was a near impossibility.   Did get the following:

• Current Sultan “King” is 29th in succession.

• Married first wife and had 6 children

• Married second wife and had 4 children

• Divorced second wife and stripped her of everything – not sure what that means!

• Married third wife and had 2 children.

• Total children with three women is 12.

On the tour we saw the King’s mosque, the King’s soccer field, the King’s horses, the King’s this and the King’s that.  There appeared to be lots of lovely homes, large and nicely designed.   We saw the King’s siblings homes, brother’s this and sister’s that.  I truly lost track.  

We toured Juradong Park – a park that used to be free to the Brunei people, but has recently been taken over by an investment company and now there is a $4 admission per person to the park.   It’s quite beautiful and very large.

We then drove past the King’s home – could only see the roofline.  This residence is reputed to be the largest residential palace in the world boasting approximately 1,800 rooms, stables, soccer field, tennis courts, swimming pools, and a garage that houses his extensive car collection.   Our guide told us he has 1,500 automobiles, but other guides gave the number at 3,000.

Then we arrived at the Empire Hotel and Country Club which had not too long ago been the residence for visiting worldwide dignataries.   We were told that after the crash of the US economy, the King’s brother who was in charge of this facility lost billions of dollars.  At that time, a Brunei investment organization took over the facility and has turned it into one of the world’s most exclusive hotels.  When asked what the nightly charge is for a room, the answer was staggering.   Our guide said that the rooms range from $200 to $250,000 a night – hello?!?!?!   Would imagine that $200 gets you the broom closet.

It was in fact a beautiful facility, lots of gold everywhere, pietradura floors, gorgeous chandeliers and appointed with the best of everything.  Huge ceilings with very high floor to ceiling windows looked out to the ocean and lovely manicured gardens.   We enjoyed a high tea (though the beverage was only lukewarm!), pretty sweets and tasty finger sandwiches.   Then I went to some of the shops.   The first shop had very high-end items, but surprisingly, there were no price tags on anything!

The second shop I entered was a treasure trove of scarves, some women’s clothing, men’s ties – silk, cotton, pashmina, wool – prices were very reasonable and I shopped quickly and fled for the bus before they came looking for me.  Made the deadline for leaving with three minutes to spare.

Trivia No.21:  What do the letters SCUBA represent?

Friday, March 12, 2010 – Kotakinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia (or Malaysian Borneo)

Kotakinabalu is pronounced with each syllable equal – ko-ta-ki-na-ba-lu – no accent on any one syllable.

Kotakinabalu is the capital of Sabah state in Malaysia.  It is also the capital of the West Coast Division of Sabah.   The city is located on the northwest coast of Borneo facing the South China Sea.    It has a population of 617,972, while the larger urban area has an estimated population of 900,000.

Kotakinabalu is named after Mount Kinabalu, situated about 90 kilometers east-northeast of the city.  Kinabalu derived from the name Aki Nabalu meaning the “revered place of the dead”, in which Aki means “ancestors” or “grandfather”, and Nabalu being a name for the mountain in the Duscun language.  There is also a source claiming that the term originated from Ki Nabalu, where Ki meaning “have” or “exist”, and Nabalu meaning “spirit of the dead”.

Kota is a Malay word for a “fort”, “town”, or a “city”.  You will also see it used in other town names such as Kota Bahru, Kota Tinggi and Kota Kemuning.

This morning’s tour was a trip to the water village – oh goodie – another one!  This tour turned out to be quite nice.  We were told about the culture of Borneo and while we were driving through a particularly poor area on our way to the river, the guide tried to keep our attention riveted on his as he regaled us with the history of the head hunting culture of Borneo – banned only 57 years ago!  Won’t relate too much of this because he enjoyed the telling a wee bit too much – however, once upon a time, Borneans’ wealth was judged by how many human heads each had gathered!

When we arrived at the river to catch our boats to the water village, there were long work tables set up with pieces of fabric on which designs had been drawn in wax.   At each place there were pots of water paint and brushes.   We were told to each create our own batik and when we returned from the water village, the pieces would be dry and we could take them home.   We all painted very seriously, some more than others – it was fun. 

Then we piled into boats, about ten people to each boat and we were off, up the salty river toward the water village.  During our 40 minutes ride to the village, there were prawn farms, occasional lonely water homes, lots of small boats throwing out nets and dropping crab pots.   We also dropped five crab pots to be picked up on our return. 

The shores on both sides of the river are all heavy mangrove forestation.   From what I remember being told during an earlier Australian trip, the mangrove plays a huge part in the local ecology.  It forms a habitat for fish life, the root filters out many of the poisons from water shed, and even more importantly, it protect villages that have formed behind it from high angry tides and tsunamis.

We finally arrived at water village.  We were able to be quite close to the houses and were amazed to fine babies and small children playing on the rickety porches.   There were no rails and the children were often unattended.   People seemed very happy – all waved to us and smiled a lot.

These people are known as the “gypsies” of Borneo, but in fact live here because they all make their living from the sea and want to be close to it.  Fishermen of experience can tell how deep the ocean is at any given point by just testing the water with a hand.  They also navigate by sense and by stars.  

Many speedboat drivers on the river had scarves tied over their faces.  While we all knew the air quality was very poor yesterday, didn’t realize how bad it truly was until a boat driver passed us with a white scarf tied over his face.  Where he breathed through his nose and mouth, the scarf was black!   It has been four weeks since this area has had any rain, and since the Philippine Islands protect them from wind, their air is often filled with nasty particles.  They often refer to their geographical location as “below the wind”.

On the way back from the water village, we checked the crab pots launched earlier on te boat trip, but we were not lucky.  All five traps were empty.   Guide said crabs caught here are quite large.  He made a measurement with his hands of about 15 inches across.

Weather continues to be hot and sticky.   If our reports aboard ship are correct regarding weather in Hong Kong, we are looking forward to much cooler temperatures. 

Trivia Answer No.21:  Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus.

Saturday, March 13, 2010 – Cruising the South China Sea

The South China Sea is a marginal sea south of China and Taiwan; west of the Philippines, northwest of Sabah, Malaysia and Brunei; north of Indonesia, northeast of the Malay Peninsula and Singapore and east of Vietnam.  It is a part of the Pacific Ocean and one of the largest sea bodies after the five major oceans.

Today is one of our last two days at sea prior to reaching Hong Kong.  We have three more nights on board and then leave the ship on March 16, our second day in port at Hong Kong. 

Tomorrow I begin sorting and packing.   Will have to mail four suitcases home and take the fifth one with us for our five days in China.  We are all looking forward to Hong Kong as most of us have done very little shopping on this trip – yes that’s right – have done very little shopping on this trip!  Am hoping to bring home some fabrics from Hong Kong and I understand that the national department store right off the ship has some very beautiful ready-to-wear clothing at fairly reasonable prices.    If anyone out there has any suggestions for Hong Kong, please let me know!

A forgotten story:  Last week I was asked to be one of the models in a fine jewelry show.  The jewelry company, Brilliant Stars, has a store on board that has some of the highest priced sparkles I’ve ever seen.   The owners of the business are self-proclaimed leaders in dealing and knowledge of precious gems, i.e., diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies.  Don’t know where anyone would wear some of this stuff.   Although breathtakingly beautiful, much of it is fit for royalty and would need a full time armed guard in attendance at all times. 

While there is very pretty jewelry aboard ship among the guests, there was nothing of this caliber worn thus far.

Got up early the morning of the show to be at the jewelry store at 9:15 a.m.  It was awkward to put on complete makeup, do hair, and dress in black palazzo pants and plain black evening top.   We were asked to wear all black and leave all personal jewelry in the cabin.   

This was at a time that I was still coughing, but that noise seemed pretty much in control that particular morning.   One passenger wore a necklace of huge diamonds and blue sapphires valued at over $600,000.   Additionally, she wore two rings, bracelets and earrings. She probably had over $1,000,000 in jewels adorning her body.

I had the privilege of wearing beautiful rubies with diamond bands in the necklace, diamond earrings, ruby bracelet, diamond and gold bracelet and two diamond rings.   Felt like a veritable Christmas tree!   Wouldn’t you know that as the show began and the jeweler began telling about what everyone would see, I began coughing.   The more I tried to curb that reflex, the harder I coughed.   Finally dashed up the aisle, stripped off the rubies and diamonds and shoved the lot at the jeweler’s assistant and retired to the cabin.

Felt I would have ruined the show had I stayed.  Here’s the irony – my coughing stopped as soon as I no longer had the pressure.   Think I need therapy!!

Sunday, March 14, 2010 – Cruising the South China Sea

Began packing today.    Spent the better part of the day sorting clothing and deciding which stuff we would take with us for our five days in China – just one suitcase to check - and what we would send home in the four suitcases being shipped by DHL.  Am pretty much done except for toiletries and last minute clothing.   Need things to wear the last two nights aboard ship, though they will be casual.

Today we had our last round of Trivia.   We were in the cellar on points through this whole last leg of the cruise – from Sydney to Hong Kong.   Would you believe that we won first prize?!?!?  Because we did not gamble any of our points on the last question, we won!   Every other team bet at least half or all of their points and didn’t get the bonus question.  The question had twelve parts to it.  We did answer correctly 11 of the 12 parts – but missed one little part.   Here’s the question.  The answer was suspect to almost everyone, but I’ve googled it and it is so.

Bonus Trivia Question that ended the Trivia Game:  In Europe there are 12 monarchies.  Name them.

Bonus Trivia Answer: Monarchies of Europe:  Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Spain, Sweden, United Kingdom, and Vatican City.  (We missed Vatican City – ‘cause we don’t think of it as a Monarchy)

Not one team had Vatican City in their answer and only a couple of teams had eleven countries out of the complete set of twelve.

Our room stewardess, Leizl, came in to clean this morning, saw our suitcases out, and burst into tears.  She’s been one of the best stewardesses we’ve ever had and a lovely young woman.   We will miss her.

Monday, March 15, 2010 – Arriving Hong Kong – People’s Republic of China

Am up early this morning.   Got on the computer at 5:30 a.m.  We will be soon coming in to the harbor of Hong Kong.  Am not certain we’re going to see very much because we hear lots of foghorns.   Am actually thinking many of us will be welcoming the fog.   We’ve had so very much hot and sticky weather, the cool will be a welcome change.

Heard at breakfast that during the night all ship’s officers were summoned to duty because the captain couldn’t see his hand in front of his face!

After breakfast this morning am going off ship to shop.  Everyone is talking about the huge shopping area right where the ship will be docking.   Am hoping to find some pretty fabrics.  Whatever I do find will go into the suitcases that are being shipped home.

We are scheduled to debark the ship tomorrow morning at 10:00 a.m. and are being transferred over to the Shangri-La Hotel on the Kowloon side of HK.   Two days from now we will be flying to Guilin to do day tour on the River Li, staying in Guilin for a couple of days and then back to HK for one night prior to flying home.

Later . . . Well, the shopping area right off the ship was tons of shops, all high end, all top designers – so many – almost obscene.   I saw some stores repeated three times – like if you missed them the first time, you might just relent and shop there on the second or third go ‘round.

While I was wandering, was overtaken by Lucie and Bob who know Hong Kong very well and so they scooped me up and took me along to shop is places where I might not have had an opportunity if I were alone.   Bought some little things and then found lovely fabric which I will either make up myself or be lazy and have the two pieces done by someone else.   The day was warm, muggy, and the quality of the air positively awful.   My coughing resurfaced – non-stop.    After we shopped for 2-1/2 hours, we headed back to the ship to drop off our parcels and have a bite of lunch.   Adolph decided to continue to loll on the ship, Bob decided to nap, and Lucie and I headed out to Stanley Market.

After a trip across to HK Island (we are moored on the Kowloon side), we cabbed to the market and walked our socks off.   Picked up a few more little things and reversed our process back to the ship.

Now, there’s packing and there’s packing.   I began our process yesterday and thought I had it all organized and ready to go – wrong!

Trivia No.22:  On what island prison off the coast of South Africa, was Nelson Mandela incarcerated?

Tuesday, March 16, 2010 – Hong Kong – Waiting to debark                      

Woke up this morning and could hardly walk.   My ankle has crashed, probably because I totally overdid yesterday and have not done any exercises for this awful ankle during this trip. Will hope that I can rest it today and be back on track by the time we get to Guilin tomorrow night.  Meanwhile, Aleve is my new best friend and am trying to massage the heck out of the muscles in my left leg.   Can’t wait to get back into my routine on the Pilates Reformer when I get home.

Yesterday, my packing saga continued.   Adolph and I’d carefully thought out what we wanted to take with us, what we wanted to send home, and I thought we’d agreed.   To make a long story short, by the time I set our bags outside our door last night, I’d packed and repacked all five pieces of luggage four times!  Will not relate the “discussions” that took place during this saga.  When thinking of getting ready for dinner last night, I caved!   Adolph had dinner with Lucie and Bob while I continued to resort clothing. I ordered a BLT in the cabin, opened a bottle of sauvignon blanc we had on ice and had two glasses while I enjoyed the solace of piece and quiet.  Four of the five pieces of luggage we will not see again until they arrive at our doorstep next week via DHL.   For those of you who remember the fiasco we had with DHL sending luggage to Greece for us many years ago, you will understand our trepidation at again giving DHL the responsibility!   The fifth piece we will pick up when we get off the ship in about one hour and take it along with us the next four days.

Our first stop will be the Shangri-La Hotel on the Kowloon side for one night. Believe I will spend the rest of the day in our room rather than breathe this awful outside air.  It will be a good time to sort through emails and organize documents for transfer to my desktop when we get home.  Tomorrow late afternoon we fly off to Guilin for two nights.

We left Seabourn Odyssey, a little ahead of schedule.  Spent the morning saying our goodbyes to people we might just see again should we again cruise with Seabourn.  Hope we will.

And then, because of such low expectations for the post-cruise tour to Guilin due to completely disorganized travel department aboard the ship . . .  WOW!  We were blown away!  Such incredible service!  We left the ship and walked to the luggage area.   Standing next to our one piece of luggage that would travel with us, stood a beautifully suited Chinese gentleman holding a sign with our name (even spelled correctly!).   He and two others bowed and welcomed.   Took our hand held pieces, and the big one, loaded it into a really clean and shiny small van, ushered us inside, gave us an envelope of papers that would get us through the ride to the airport tomorrow, and those plane tickets.   We were then taken on a ten-minute ride to the Shangri-La Kowloon Hotel.  

More bowing and welcoming by three or four beautifully suited and gowned, young men and women, at the entrance and then we were ushered to the check-in desk.    Our room was ready at 10:30 a.m. and is deluxe – for sure!  We have a harbor view room.  Not just a little view, but the entire wall facing the harbor is harbor view, and beyond lies Hong Kong Island.  The view is not as clean as I remember it from last time we visited HK, because of the dirty air mixed with fog.  But am hopeful that prior to our leaving, we’ll have some clean viewing – I may be overly optimistic!

Our room here is beautiful.   Will try to get some photos later.  We walked into a dark room and couldn’t get any lights to work, nor could we open the drapes to let in daylight.  Adolph noticed that near the door, inside, on the wall, there was a place for our room key.  I put the key in, the drapes opened and the lights went on.   Pulled the key out.   Funny – the drapes only opened three feet.   While we were wondering how we could open drapes all the way, they closed and lights went off.  We were in total darkness once again!    Could it be that we should leave the key in that wall slot?   Yes, of course.   Key is in slot, drapes are fully open and lights are on.

Internet is complimentary so am sending out this journal, together with only a few photos.  Will hope to have more and beautiful photos from our trip to Guilin.

Trivia Answer No.22:  Robben Island

Tuesday, March 16, 2010 – At the Shangri-La Hotel, Hong Kong

We’ve just come back from lunch in the hotel.  Decided to go to Kool Café.   Guests have a choice to order from the menu, a la carte with choices of the usual Chinese snacks or universal sandwiches, such as Reuben or Club.   They also offer an extensive buffet.   While I would have rather eaten a salad or sandwich, we opted for the buffet – an exceptional one.   Choices of Italian, Thai, Cantonese and Mandarin cooking, big Sushi bar, salad bar, gorgeous freshly baked breads (even black breads) and a dessert section that would put a French patisserie to shame!  Each area was ably staffed with the particular expert chef for that specialty.

Peking Duck, deep-fried small eggplants, sweet and sour chicken, chicken cooked in the form of the Greek Souvlaki (delicious!) and more too numerous to list.   All of this was enjoyed with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc from Chile – and then on to dessert.  Ice cream that was black, although called sesame seed ice cream; a sesame seed cake, also black with silver grey icing (delicious); fresh dragon fruit and other conventional fruits; bread pudding with vanilla sauce; tiramisu, crème caramel – are you getting the idea?  What damage we didn’t do on the ship could easily be completed at a couple of lunches in this hotel!

Could do a whole chapter on watching the Chinese eat.  This is very serious business and I wonder if it comes from a time when food was scarce.   People passed our table with plate after plate piled high – not large people but those diminutive of stature.   And, when they sat at table it was the nose near the plate, shoveling and slurping in whatever food they’d chosen, while little conversation was exchanged with others at table.

Have already told Adolph that we’re not having dinner later.   We have access to The Club Lounge with this particular room.   It has a complimentary cocktail hour with nibbles early in the evening.   That should be the perfect solution, as we watch the Odyssey sail out of Hong Kong Harbor at 5:45 p.m..

We’ve already had a phone call from the hospitality desk letting us know that they’ve received a fax from Guilin.   The river is particularly low, so we will have only three hours on the Li River on Thursday.  The rest of the trip will be completed by car.

Am still hobbling along - ankle very sore.   Adolph probably doesn’t realize that he should be very grateful, for if I were able to proceed at full speed I really would be out shopping!

Went up to the Horizon Club for a glass of wine and some nibbles.   Lo and behold, there were eight other Odyssey passengers, all on the same mission, and all waiting to wave goodbye to the Odyssey when she left at 6:00 p.m.

We had a nice mini reunion.   There were four of us from our winning Trivia team.  At 6:30 the Odyssey did leave smoggy, foggy Hong Kong.   We visited a bit more, then others left for the airport and their flight home to the UK, while we returned to our room, watched a movie and were asleep by 9:00 p.m.!

Trivia No.23:  What is a Bruxomaniac?

Wednesday, March 17, 2010 – Hong Kong to Guilin

Complimentary breakfast is served for “Club” members at the Horizon Club.  We expected juice, coffee, fruit and cereal.   This hotel has outdone itself once again on the food level.   Oatmeal, fresh fruit, juices, yogurt, dry cereals, a meusli mix, freshly baked Danish assortments, different breads for toasting, cold meats, cheeses, Asian fare which included Dim Sum and a mini salad bar – yep – a mini salad bar for breakfast.   I watched Asians choose that – curious.

As if all of the above were not enough, they also presented us with a menu for hot items which ran the gamut from eggs, any style, including Benedict and Florentine, steak, etc.

We opted for fresh fruit, a croissant and coffee.   Perfect.     Now, I’m repacking once again for the plane ride to Guilin!  Have to move all liquids of a certain size to the check-in luggage – so will report more later.

Note:  It’s still foggy and smoggy here in Hong Kong, the air is still full of junk and I’m still coughing!!!  Feel like Typhoid Mary!

Our airport transfer arrived precisely on time and shepherded us off to the airport.   We were taken to Terminal One for check-in to Guilin.   Then had to go through immigration, downstairs, and then catch an airport train to Terminal Two.   We couldn’t find the way downstairs!   After a bunch of backing and forthing, trying to make ourselves understood – most usually unsuccessfully – we found our destination, got through immigration, the train and over to Terminal Two.   Terminal Two also proved to be a maze.   We had to walk a long way and then catch a bus out on to the tarmac where there are isolated mini terminals.  

Not knowing where we needed to be, we opted not to stop for a bite of lunch and when we got to the mini terminal, found that there was no food available for people in transit.  Our “lunch” consisted of shortbread and KitKat candy bars – the only thing we could find!

After a short flight to Guilin, only one hour and five minutes, we entered the Guilin Airport to go through a maze of immigration lines and had to stop and fill out a health form which asked if we’d recently had a cough.  I lied!   Of course, then trying all the while not to cough, my cough wanted out!  After rather a long time dealing with stern faced Chinese officials, all in various uniforms, all unsmiling, we connected with our Guilin guide – Christine.  She spoke English quite well and announced she would be our guide for the next two days.   All luggage claimed we found our van and driver and were introduced to Mr. Mao – just like Chairman Mao!   Mr. Mao proved tacit, lots of nods and bows.

We then were checked in to our hotel in Guilin, the Sheraton.  This hotel is nice, but has seen better days.  Believe there is a Shangri-La Hotel being completed here and it will open shortly.   After check-in, our guide made certain we knew the way to the restaurant, we had an interesting meal (pretty pepper hot!) while sitting on very low slung, soft and cushy loveseats.  Actually the restaurant was a tiny bit grungy.  A nap would have been better than eating.

And so to bed. . . .

Trivia Answer No.23:  Someone who grinds his teeth.

Thursday, March 18, 2010 – Guilin, China

Mr. Mao and Christine picked us up at 8:15 a.m. to begin our day of touring.  First, we headed to Yangdi where we caught one of 20 boats on the river.   Rather than go all the way to Yangshou, because the river was very low, we could only go to the Mountain of Nine Horses, a little less than half way.   Then the boat would turn around and go back to Yangdi where we would once again get on our van and drive to Yangshou.

Seabourn had arranged for a box lunch from the Sheraton – a very strange collection of food:  some kind of bad smelling chicken in a bun, ham and cheese and very greasy focaccia bread, can of mango juice, bottle of water, small salad, smoked salmon, cookies,

apple, the biggest banana I’ve ever seen, a can of Pringles.  Had the fruit and water.

The ship also offered a buffet of Chinese food that didn’t look half bad.   But we’re not going hungry here – in fact there’s too much food available to us.

The boats were full of tourists from many countries - even a huge group of Italians.  The weather today was quite awful.   Mild in temperature, but what the Chinese call “misty” was really a damp fog which did clear leaving an awful, dirty smog.   And the smog is no wonder as we saw tons of individual burning from the farmers and industry that spewed dirty smoke into the air.

Our photos will no doubt be disappointing because there is no clarity, no blue sky, and no sharp green tones on the foliage and no clear blue water.   We’ll just have to Google Guilin!

Along with the tour boats that carry lots of passengers, one can also rent a small bamboo raft with an outboard motor and a driver.   These funny boats have a platform on them that holds bamboo chairs for the tourists.   Some of the “bamboo” boats are made out of PVC pipe.   Also in the river traffic are vendors who come up to the side of the tour boats and tie on while hawking their wares to the tourists.    They sell, coolie hats, larger than life fans, and best of all, fake jade bok choy!  If I’d had the room, would have purchased a big one just for a joke.

Along the way we passed villages where women came down to the river with laundry carried in baskets, balanced on their shoulders at each end of a bamboo pole.   Once at the river, clothing is dipped in the river, laid on a rock, and pounded and scrubbed until clean.  Some use soap and rinse it out in the River Li.   We are constantly told that the rivers are totally clean and unpolluted, however, with the washing, boating and garbage we spotted on the river bottom, I wonder at the truth of their statements.  At the rate tourism is growing in this area, something will have to be done to clean it up and keep it that way.

Some fishermen carry a huge bamboo pole which balances a cormorant on each end.   Each bird’s foot is tied to the bamboo with a long cord.   Upon command, the cormorants dive into the water for fish and bring them up to the fisherman.   Believe the birds are trained by tying a cord around their necks so that they can’t swallow their catches.

Of most interest to me on the tour boats were the back ends of the lower decks.  There, white coated chefs, some complete with chefs’ toques, chopped, minced, stirred and cooked the food that would be consumed by passengers at the buffet lunch.   Another reason to doubt the clean river is the fact that when cooking has been accomplished and all passengers served, a hose draws water from the river and the chef hoses down the outdoor kitchen.   All cooking debris and grease appeared to go into the river.

Even in the fog, or mist, the mountains along the Li River were spectacular.   Almost every mountain has a name and a story that is based around the shape of the mountain.  My favorite one is “Yearning for Husband Mountain”!   There is another called Nine Horses.   Christine said that if one can see all 9 horses in the rock formations, then that person is a true, #1, scholar.    She has only seen 6 horses to date.   I told her to take heart because as we get older, we do get wiser.   Was certain that she would soon see all horses.

These mountains are not rolling hills, but a series of bold shapes coming right out of the ground, in some instances straight up, to form thumbs, camels, elephants, etc.  The famous shapes, and the most dramatic, are found in and around Guilin over an area covering approximately 90 square miles.   However, these mountains are sparsely spread even further, over a 3000 square mile area.

After the cruise returned to the beginning . . . remember that because of the low water levels, we could only cruise a small portion of the river . . . we got back into the van and started off for Yangshou.   Had the river been high enough, this is where we would have ended our cruise.  We walked West Street, so named because many of the Western tourists who get off the boat here shop in this area, fall in love, or go into business.   Adolph was too tired to walk the street, so he sat on a rock near the river and Christina and I took off.  

Much of the usual stuff and nonsense was for sale here on West Street, except for two stores that featured arts and crafts of the minority tribes of China – tribes such as Miao and Dhuang.  Miao people do beautiful silver work, often displayed in intricately designed head dresses for brides and festivals.  Miao also do beautiful needlework, some of which tempted me, but was so very expensive decided to forego it.  I spotted a very beautiful tie, all hand stitched, color on color.   It took six months to make and in American dollars, cost $600!!!

The Dhuang make an item called a love ball.   This ball is divided into twelve parts representing the 12 months of the year.   At festivals, boys and girls gather in separate groups, but close enough to watch each other.  The girls each have one of these love balls.   When she sees a boy who interests her, she throws the ball to him.   If he reciprocates her interest, then he catches the ball and the courtship begins.   If the boy is not interested in the girl throwing the ball, he deliberately misses the ball – and the process starts anew.  The 12 months of the year depicted in the 12 parts of the ball represent that the boy and girl will stay together forever.

Because the schedule changed and we’d had to drive to Yangshou, Christine thought we should have dinner there rather than the restaurant chosen by Seabourn in Guilin.  She decided upon a restaurant called Le Votre.  Not very good and not very clean – but who wants to cause a fuss!   We didn’t get sick.

Came back to the Sheraton with intentions of catching up my journal.   Too tired to do so, so did a bit of stitchery and watched a movie.

Trivia No.24:  What is the name for a squirrel’s home?

Friday, March 19, 2010 – Guilin, China

Christine and Mr. Mao picked us up at 9:00 a.m. this morning.   I do so hate packing when one is on the move.   Think things begin to grow.   Nothing fits into the cases.    Adolph went to breakfast and I packed and ate a huge banana that was in the room.   That would be fine for me.   Went downstairs to the internet area and checked out email.   System here is extremely slow – hardly worthwhile.

We were off at 9:00 to visit Elephant Rock, the symbol for Guilin, the adjacent Love Park where young people come to date.  Elephant Rock appears to be a huge elephant with his trunk in the river as he drinks water.   His trunk separates the Li River and the Peach Blossom River.  Watched early morning swimmers in the Li River, once again navigated the beggars, and tried to politely decline the people selling their wares.

Adolph said he wasn’t up to snuff today so, especially when he heard “over 100 stairs” from Christine, so he chose to stay in the van while Christine showed me Reed Flute Cave.   This is a limestone cavern that surprised me with its beauty.   The limestone formations, stalagtytes, stalagmites, drapes, a few plates and much, much more, are all a grey color.   Just like Carlsbad Caverns in America, they’ve lit the caverns with colored lights - very pretty. Not at all like Lehman Caves in Nevada that have so much natural color and need no enhancement.

Lunch was at a wonderful restaurant – The Dragon, or Tea and Drink Restaurant.   Clean as a pin, staff all meticulously dressed, chairs and tables all draped in bright yellow linens and a part of the restaurant - a very small and selective bookstore.   We found a few books that we will bring home.

The food came and each plate was duly photographed.   The soup had the yin and yang symbol on the surface in green and white, one course looked like a raft on the Li River, one came shaped like Elephant Rock.   It was beautiful and tasty.   This was our best meal in Guilin.

Needed a couple of things to take along home so Christina suggested that Adolph go into the Sheraton to rest a bit in the lobby and we’d walk the market just at the back of the Sheraton.  Am so glad that we did this because while walking around we were approached by two Chinese girls attending university in Guilin.  They were studying English and asked Christine if we could do them a favor.   Their assignment was to speak with a person in English so that they could practice their new language.   Thought it would be fun.   They struggled, giggled, hid their faces and were absolutely charming.   Asked if they could record the conservation so that it could be brought back to the professor.    Of course!   Such fun.

Then we were off to haggle with a stall owner to buy a few little things.   I did just as Christine had instructed, got a good price, and was called “cheap” by the owner!   Very funny!   When the transaction was completed, she smiled and said “okey dokey”.   Oh, said I, you speak English!    She laughed uproariously.   Amidst lots of waving goodbyes and smiles we went back to the hotel to pick up Adolph and get to the airport for our return to Hong Kong.

Right now we are waiting for our 6:00 p.m. flight to be called.   It will be wonderful to get back to the Shangri-La Hotel in Kowloon.

We said our goodbyes to Christine and Mr. Mao.   They really took very good care of us in China.  We were very lucky to get such a good guide and driver.  Mr. Mao is an exceptional driver.  Thought India was bad in the way of traffic, but in Guilin no one gives an inch – not bicycles, mopeds, tricycle trucks, buses, trucks vans, cars and even some pedestrians.   Everyone just keeps moving and inching toward the direction needed.  Pedestrians get stuck out in the middle of the street and they stand there trying to be skinny while cars weave round them.  Adolph now wants to drive this way at home!

Plane on time out of Guilin but when we arrived Hong Kong, no one was there to meet us.   Called the emergency number and got “Mr. Eddie”, who asked where we were and told us to stay put.   Within ten minutes Tony found us.   Still don’t know who was in the wrong spot, but when we came out with our luggage, there were lots of other drivers holding signs for passengers, so we thought ours should be there as well.  

We’re finally back to the Kowloon Shangri-La, in a lovely different room, more of a suite this time and again with a view of the entire harbor.  I’d like to take this bathroom home with me.

We have a 5:00 flight on Cathay Pacific and should be at SFO on the 20th at 2:00 p.m.

Trivia Answer No. 24:  Dray.

Saturday, March 20, 2010 – Leaving Hong Kong for Home this afternoon

Adolph went off for breakfast while I uploaded both cameras into the computer, completed this journal and posted photos.  It’s time for me to get down to business and pack up for the trip home, make certain iPod, iPhone and computer are fully charged prior to leaving the hotel at 2:00 this afternoon.

Down in the lobby, checked out by 1:15, expecting ride to airport at 2:00 p.m.   But wait, driver was early and arrived at 1:30.  We were whisked to the airport in a fancy silver Mercedes.  I worried about not having tickets for our flight, not even an eTicket, because this flight was booked on the ship.  We had not one problem.   Isn’t that nice?!?!?   We are booked into seats 14D & F in business class.  These seats are singles which is okay, and I just wish the check-in person hadn’t told us that some people found the seats a bit too narrow!   Adolph is worrying that he won’t fit!  I’m tickled that we only have one suitcase to check.   The airline person is amazed when he looked at our passport that we only have one piece of luggage.  “Only one piece?”  Think I’ll just let him be amazed, rather than tell him that we’ve already mailed home four pieces!

Got through immigration without a hitch, and through security with the least hitch since we began our trip.   So far in China, on our trip to and from Guilin, Adolph’s carry on was emptied and gone through with a fine-toothed comb. However, don’t know if it’s because Hong Kong International Airport has more sophisticated equipment, even his knees didn’t set off any bells and whistles. . . or should that be suspect?!?  Yesterday, even after going through all of his carry-on, he had to remove his belt – almost lost his trousers!

Now tucked into the Business Class lounge of Cathay Pacific, eating beautiful, delicate sandwiches of tuna and corn, salami “sausage”, and egg salad.   Some pound cake and brownies, which are labeled “chocolate chips” – all washed down with a glass of sauvignon blanc.  It’s bread and water for me when I get home.