Several months ago my friend and travel agent, Eric of Goldring Travel, posted that he’d been invited to come aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit to experience a week in the Mediterranean. He asked if any of his clients were interested and I raised my hand. I’ve long wanted to experience the true “romance of the sea” while under full sail - this would be my chance. And, just in case I didn’t like it or couldn’t handle the motion, the cruise was only for one week. Along with the new experience, this cruise was to have a Michelin chef on board! How could I not jump at this!
So, tomorrow morning I fly to Nice, via Munich. Am really excited about this trip and hope to report some fun experiences.
As an added bonus my friends from Canada, Elin and Pete, are now in Northern Italy and will be driving up to Nice to spend a couple of days with me prior to my boarding the ship.
Stay tuned . . .
October 2 - Wednesday - SFO to Nice, France
Left San Francisco Bay Area during a heat wave - actually glad to be getting away from it! Arrived in Munich to weather in the 40’s - brrrrrrr. Hadn’t been to the Munich airport since the 1980’s and found it to be a totally different place - much larger - but not as daunting as the airport in Frankfurt. Police presence, as in most airports, but this time there were no soldiers with machine guns, nor their police dogs!
Found the passport control, and what looked to be only automated machines where two other American women were trying to make them work. It was then that I noticed these machines were for “burgers”, or citizens Germany and the EU. So, where were we supposed to go? Then in the dim recesses of a long hall we saw some glass booths manned by humans. There was no line - not one person! Off we went with our passports stamped.
Found my connecting flight to Nice listed both for Gates K16 and K18 but since they were adjacent, didn’t matter too much. Off I went to find “K”. A fairly long walk, and then an escalator that was perhaps the steepest one ever, maybe four to six stories steep! Down, down, and down, to the basement of all basements and a train that took me to “K” - then a series of escalators going up, up and up.
Flight to Nice was delayed a bit but I was thoroughly entertained by a young German family who had twin daughters aged around one and half years. This brought back so many memories of just how busy double trouble can be. As sweet as those girls were, and busy as those parents tried to keep them, the girls fussed, screamed and cried. My heart went out to the parents.
October 3 - Thursday - Nice, France
At the end of our flight in Nice, as we were trying to get our luggage out of the overheads, the Dad got up only to be followed into the aisle and have each leg hugged by each little girl. They weren’t letting go! Couldn’t help it - laughed out loud!
Weather here was damp and temperatures moderate. It had been raining and think more was due. My driver was waiting for me after I claimed luggage and we were off to Hotel Le Meridien. Was able to check in immediately only to find that the floors of my room, recently mopped had obviously been left to air dry. Didn’t happen! As I walked, the soles of my shoes left little soap bubbles all over the floor. Upon request, housekeeping did come back to dry the floors.
Now the room . . . WELL, it’s little bigger than a closet, making for wall-to-wall bed, and a tiny corner space where two chairs and a table are crammed in. The balcony is really a patio, as large as the room, with two chaises, a table and several chairs. However, the view makes up for everything!!
After unpacking a few things I collapsed onto the bed and was soon sound asleep only to be awakened by a male voice . . . “Madame Capurro” . . . . A bellman had entered when I didn’t answer the door, with an ice bucket, a bottle of wine and some cookies - compliments of management. Nice. . . In Nice. He deposited the wine and I went back to sleep.
Then it was time to get my act together and meet Pete and Elin for dinner, after a glass of wine in the bar downstairs. Really didn’t want to leave the hotel as it was pouring rain. The streets were awash and I had to walk a couple of blocks, but did find Restaurant La Villa Massenet. So nice to have a tasty dinner with friends!!
October 4 - Friday - Nice, France
My friend, Martine, who spends time in this area every year, sent me a thoughtful list of things to do in Nice and surrounding area. However, given the weather prospects today, think it’s going to be a museum or two, and definitely will try to go to the outdoor market this morning, before the skies open up again.
However, instead of my museum plans, I crashed after a wander through the outdoor market and a walk along the promenade beachside. We were accompanied by Miss Daisy!
This swiss chard was so beautiful, it was worthy to be included in a flower arrangement!
In old town we spent some time in the very old Auer Candy Store. Thought we would purchase on our way back, but never made it. Everything looked really delicious.
Spent the rest of the afternoon trying to wake up!
This evening was one of those experiences that I’m not likely to forget! Eric found us a wonderful restaurant - Les Agitateurs (The Agitators). We were joined by Elin and Pete and oh my gosh, did we have a meal (and a half!). This was to be a food and wine paired meal with multi courses. The restaurant graciously made accommodation to Elin who is allergic to all seafood, and her courses resembled the rest, but kept to her regimen.
I counted maybe tables for twelve people as we entered. We were then led through a little niche behind a work station, passed by what looked like a kitchen, down some narrow stairs, barely saving our heads from a thump, and into another dining room, very simply and elegantly decorated, that was set for an additional ten people and a small table for two in the wine alcove. So charming!
The menu was set and began with an assortment of courses called “finger foods” - no utensils in sight! We were able to choose an aperitif from a menu of assorted drinks to go along with our food - pretty and tasty. Will eventually copy the menu into this blog and hopefully let the photos of the food do the explaining. Everything was a delight for the eyes and the palate, only made more wonderful by an assortment of French wines - all interesting, some quite delicious. There were nineteen different dishes (some served together) accompanied by six wines.
Bread was served in a basket made of baked bread!
Finger Food
An assortment of bites to whet the palate - no utensils!
Can't remember when this was served, but it was an individual and freshly baked foccaccia, topped with a beef reduction, fruit, etc., - I could have sat there all night eating these wonderful tasty concoctions!
Folds
Butternut squash ravioli,
orange blossom & reduction of a bigarade sauce
Autumn in the Mediterranean
Catch of the day, mushrooms & yellow wine
Invitation to travel
Lightly cooked San Remo prawns,
Fresh herb salad & crispy bacon
Leeks mosaic
Pot-au-feu vinaigrette, truffle & beef marrow
Feather and fur pastry
Pigeon and foie gras pie, rich jus
Sweet Manon - lovely young woman!
White as snow
Snow-white meringue, vanilla rice pudding from Tahiti
In the shade of the fig tree
Fig, Muscat reduction & fig leaf sorbet
Sweet Kisses
. . . . and a cheese plate
Jeanne and the one of the Chefs
Still standing after four and half hours of wining and dining!!
Our reservation was for 7:30, and we left the restaurant at close to 11:30. An absolutely wonderful dining experience! I realize this description is filled with superlatives, but can’t do anything less - perhaps even more is required!!
We enjoyed some really tasty wines in Nice!!
October 5 - Saturday - Boarding the Sea Cloud Spirit
A beautiful day today in Nice, not a cloud in the sky. It was time to pack up my gear, and get ready for lunch with Eric. We had late checkout and stored our luggage at the hotel while we returned to the restaurant Eric had found the day before - Boccaccio. Sweet staff, and the restaurant slightly apart from the main tourist restaurants.
We each ordered fresh mussels - the serving was so abundant I couldn’t finish. Thought I might then order a small salad, but lo and behold, the kitchen had closed without our being advised of the closure. But . . . We could order dessert, so we ordered three of them to share.The profiterole looked like a train of profiteroles (six all together) - so long - so delicious, so decadent with a lake of dark chocolate at the bottom of the plate.
The profiterole train!!!
Back to hotel to claim our luggage and Uber out to the dock where Sea Cloud Spirit rested waiting for her passengers for this week. She’s beautiful!
Sea Cloud is a German company. The original Sea Cloud, a large yacht, was a gift to Marjorie Merriweather Post from her husband. The next Sea Cloud some years later, was a copy in homage to the first ship. Sea Cloud Spirit was built in 2021, and is designed in the old style with brand new materials. She is exquisite but with the pitfalls of the old design (especially for an old lady!), i.e., lots of little steps and booby traps for the unwitting walker. One has to pay attention or one will find onesself face down on the floor!
After a very long muster drill on the Lido Deck, conducted in both English and German, so figure double the usual time, we cleaned up a tiny bit (this ship is very casual), and back to the Lido Deck for a buffet dinner. Lots of buffets for meals - but food is good so far. Shouldn't have made this statement so soon in the cruise!
Had some wonderful pasta that was finished off in a huge Grana Padano cheese wheel, and then topped with your choice of sauce - either meat, basil, seafood or garlic. Chose the garlic - delicious! A nice Amaro for the digestion, and off to bed. Seas are very calm - no rocking to sleep this night.
October 6 - Sunday - Day at Sea Under Full Sail
After breakfast, all gathered on the top deck to watch the setting of the sails. What an incredibly complicated routine, with over a dozen young men scampering over the decks, climbing the rope ladders, balancing on rigging, and manually disengaging the sails from their ties. There are ropes everywhere - hundreds of them made from different materials, each type having a different job. The only thing I saw that was motor driven was the winch. Everything else is handled and executed by human hands. It took a little over one hour to engage all sails and finally have the wind as our only source of power. AWESOME!!
So darn many ropes!!!!
Then it was time for lunch where a huge fresh caught tuna (yesterday) was butchered to give the guests beautiful raw tuna in an assortment of ways, some with avocado on a crisp half taco shell and other as sushi with a kumquat vinaigrette. So delightful.
Along with the tuna, there was freshly grilled grouper, flank steak, salad, and ice cream for dessert. Generously filled wine glasses topped off the meal. And now, it’s pouring rain. The deck crew constantly adjusts the ropes that manage the sails to maximize their ability to catch the wind and propel us further on our journey.
Think it’s now time for a nap!!
A special dinner is in order this evening, prepared by Michelin Chef Michael Collantes, accompanied by his personal sommelier. Dinner was quite good, though not of the standard of Les Agitateurs!!! Two dishes for me were standouts. The first was the Miso Potato Veloute, that included clams, chorizo (very lean and delicate), fried leeks, fried potato chips, and herb oil. The second was the dessert. Though I am not a chocolate fan, especially late in the evening because it invariably keeps me awake, this lava cake was a true winner and I ate most of it . . . And it did keep me awake!
Both wines were good and complemented the menu.
After dinner we retired to the Lido Deck for an aperitivo, but the group that eventually filled the space was so loud as to be unbearable. We each retired to our cabins.
October 7 - Monday - Calvi, Corsica
The coastal town of Calvi is located in the northwest of Corsica on the Gulf of Calvi of the same name, and is the capital of the Balagne region. With over 5700 inhabitants, Calvi is the fifth largest municipality in. Corsica. The tranquil town with its citadel and beautiful old town and its picturesque yacht and ferry port is one of the most visited cities in Corsica.
It’s another grey, overcast day here in Calvi. I do want to go in to the town. Will have to tender as we are out in the bay at anchor, but am hoping that the skies will clear before I make the decision - to go or not to go . .
Tenders on this ship do not operate continuously, but on a schedule, every half hour or hour, depending on the time of day. I’d waited too long to make my decision, and when I checked the schedule, had a one hour wait until the next tender. Should not have relaxed because I immediately went to sleep. Now it was time for lunch, and then more one hour waits, tendering to and from the ship. Think I will skip Calvi, and wait until the outing tomorrow.
Up to the Lido deck to see what’s for lunch. Roasted turkey, fresh grilled fish, an assortment of salads, arrancini (not nearly as good as grandson, Alex, can make them!), and some soups. Adequate, though not inspiring.
While enjoying lunch the Captain made an announcement about an approaching storm (even mentioned Florida), tomorrow’s stop possibly being cancelled, change in schedule for tendering today. Given his difficulty with English, am totally confused, but suppose we’ll learn more later. Meanwhile, am heading for the quiet of my cabin. Those really noisy people from last night have returned. They, together with the piano player who just pounds the keys and doesn’t seem to have much joy in the music . . . I know - am a grump!!
Okay, here’s the scoop . . . Helene, which just decimated Florida and other parts of the southeast, left land, hooked on to the Gulf Stream and proceeded in a northeasterly direction, and then east over the Atlantic is now headed to the Mediterranean. Once it left Florida, believe it became just a very bad storm that will continue to blow wind and rain wherever it goes because the Gulf Stream’s water is warm. To completely end the storm, it must find cold water. If this doesn’t make sense to you, well, it doesn’t to me, either, but that’s what everyone is saying here on the ship, and who am I to argue. Have tried to google hurricanes and get more information, but that’s a failure.
At any rate, we will not be going to Bastia tomorrow because that port is unprotected and will no doubt be pounded in the storm. Instead we are staying put until later tonight at which time we will be heading to Saint Florent which is a designated “safe harbor”. We will sit out the day there and hopefully proceed with the rest of the journey the following day.
Dinner tonight out on Lido deck which is enclosed by a portable vinyl window and zippered contraption and makes for a snug dining area, with some natural ventilation. After dinner, the oldies went to bed while the party people stayed and danced and drank until who knows when? I watched for a bit and then went to bed.
Food on the ship is adequate, but so far not really photo worthy. Tomorrow night Chef Michael will be doing a special dinner once again.
October 8 - Tuesday - Bastia, Corsica. CANCEL THAT! Safe Harbor, Saint Florent, Corsica
Anchored this morning in this pretty safe harbor. Skies are overcast, there’s been a bit of rain. Some guests are tendering ashore to discover Saint Florent, and some are doing the one hour bus ride over the mountains to Bastia to make their pre-scheduled tours. Heard later that it was a very twisty, turny road that took about an hour. Happy to stay on the ship . . . In fact it is just now pouring buckets, so really happy to be remaining on the ship!
The ship rocked and rolled as we set off for our next stop, and it won’t be San Remo because the winds and rain there will make navigation too difficult. Feeling a little sick, so am skipping dinner and going to bed.
It didn’t help that we had a rum tasting before dinner!
October 9 - Wednesday - San Remo, Italy. CANCEL THAT ONE, TOO!
Through the night we sailed toward Marseille, and it was rough going. Slept poorly and am now up. Sun is trying to come out, but seas are still a little rough. We will be sailing all day and finally getting into Marseille some time early evening.
All through the day I stayed in my cabin and mostly slept. Too difficult to navigate the ship with the rough seas, and still not feeling well. In my cabin I had French bread, butter and bananas - a fairly adequate diet when one is not feeling up to par.
Finally, we were in port at around 5:00 p.m. Already feeling better as we tied up at the pier. Now I could shower without fear of falling and get ready for the special five course dinner by Michelin Chef Michael.
The dinner was a winner. Here is the menu. Loved everything except for the first course which I found to be way too salty. Everything else was perfection, especially the mushroom risotto - cooked to perfection!
Signature Dinner
Michelin Star Chef Michael Collantes
Michelin Sommelier Benjamin Coutts
Seared Tuna
Black Truffle Ponzu / Caviar / Daikon
Ginataan Pumpkin Soup
Coconut / Pumpkin / Vadouvan Spice / Shrimp
2023 Gruner Veltliner Pulkau
Jordan / Weinviertel, Osterreich
Fresh Gruner Veitliner with hints of green apple and white pepper
Pork Belly Adobo Atchara Salad
2023 Loureiro & Alvarinho
Quinta da Aveleda / Vinho Verde DOC, Portugal
Fragrant and fresh, with hints of citrus fruits and exotic blossoms
Filet Bistek Tagalog
Seared Beef / Black Garlic Calamansi Demi-Glacé / Truffled Roast Potato
Or
Seared Scallop
Ginger scallion Oil/ Chili Garlic / Bok Choy
Or
Truffle Mushroom Risotto
2022 Ebbio Langhe DOC Nebbiolo
Fontanafredda / Langhe DOC,
Piemonte, Italian
Elegant and structured, with hints of red berries and a touch of spices.
A Fine Nebbiolo from
Ube Cheesecake
Local Fruits
Or
International Cheese Selection
Or
Pralines
Photos are courtesy of Eric Goldring. Have totally given up trying to put this blog together while using my mini iPad. Not going to work - just not smart enough to figure it out. Have decided that whatever the weight, in future will take my laptop with which I am familiar. My apologies to all of you who read my attempts at a journal, some photos will be on the site during the weekend. It’s my priority as soon as I get home!
After dinner, the bartender at the Lido Deck bar had promised to make me a special cocktail, so was introduced to a Vieux Carre - popular in New Orleans. It was good. Contained rye whiskey, brandy AND cognac, Benedictine and one other ingredient - shaken with ice and poured into a martini glass.
October 10 - Thursday - Marseille, France
Marseille is France’s oldest and most important port city. With almost one million inhabitants, this metropolis is the second largest city in the country. It is the capital of the department Bouches-du-Rhône and the region Proencjej-Alpes-Cote d’Azur. The metropolis on the Mediterranean Sea has made a great development especially in recent years. For originally the city struggled with a bad reputation, among other things due to uncontrolled immigration and increasing crime in the 1970’s. As a result, wealthy citizens migrated to the suburbs, and Marseille slowly began to decline. Thanks to the urban renewal program since the 1990’s, the so-called “Euromediterrannee”, the city began to transform itself. Larger state funds were injected into the Marseille economy. The project is the largest urban renewal project in Europe. For this purpose, extensive renovations were carried out, the hotel offer was largely renewed and large cultural and recreational facilities were opened, such as the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations “MUCEM”. It is undeniable that the project “Euromediterrannee”, has helped Marseille to become the Capital of Culture 2013.
This is the city from which Mama, her mother, father, sister and brother, began their
journey to the United States. Mama was at that time only a few months old.
Though there are some clouds at the edge of the skies, the sun is shining. I will have a wander before we leave port at 1:00 p.m. I had signed up for three excursions during this week. The one at San Remo would have been my favorite as it was a walking food tour. But then, no San Remo.
Yesterday I went to cancel the excursion for Friday at Palamos, Spain - something about the architecture of wine. The excursion was scheduled for the afternoon, and that would be the time I should pack as I was leaving the ship early on Saturday morning. I wasn’t on the excursion list. So just to make certain, I checked if I was on the list for today’s tour. Once again, I wasn’t on the list. Somehow, my reservations didn’t make it.
All is well, though, because this will give me an opportunity to wander a bit and shop for a couple of things. Wish me luck!!
Didn’t find any of the stores I was looking for but had a good long walk. It is extremely windy here in Marseille, nearly blew me off the sidewalk!! Took some photos of surroundings, and was startled to find another Memorial Des Deportations, Musee d’Histoire de Marseille. Didn’t feel up to see this, but it is important that we don’t forget that period.
It was from this city that in 1792, the city sent 500 volunteer fighters to support the new government during the French Revolution. The song sung by the Marseille fighters in the streets of Paris became known as the Marseillaise, and on July 14, 1795 (Bastille Day), that song was declared the French national anthem.
Pete and Elin had brought a bottle of their favorite wine to me in Nice, and I’d saved it for one dinner aboard ship. It’s got a Lamborghini label, and in fact, the winery in Umbria was begun by the inventor of the Lamborghini tractor (and more!). It has since been sold, but the new owners retained the label. Fun! A good wine from the Montalcino region. Thank you, Elin and Pete. It went well with the roasted pig.
October 11 - Friday - Palamos, Spain
Palamos was officially founded in 1279 by King Pere II with the task of defending the royal port. For centuries, the city was plagued by pirate raids and military conflicts, which is why most of the inhabitants lived within the protective city walls. This is where today’s old town is located, with narrow streets that can best be explored on foot.
The Roman Catholic Church, built in 1417, is the oldest building in the town. With its square tower and pyramidal roof, the church dominates the town’s skyline. The altar is decorated with paintings of the Flemish school.
It’s a beautiful, sunny day in Palamos. The ship is quiet this morning as many have gone on excursions. I am up on the Lido deck to get a bit of lunch and then will go down to my cabin and begin to organize packing.
That done, showered and organized my clothing for the next morning, and departure from the ship. Then up to Lido Deck for the Captain’s farewell cocktail party, dinner with Denise and Eric, and so to bed.
Toward the end of my cruises, I usually make a donation to the Crew Welfare Fund. It’s named differently on each cruise line, but the fund goes to sponsor parties and outings for the crew. In this way, I’m not just tipping the waiter, or the bartender, but taking care of everyone, from the engine room to the most visible workers on the ship.
On Sea Cloud Spirit to support the crew fund, you buy chances to win a chart of the journey, made by crew members. It’s quite large, maybe three by four and a half feet. So I bought a fair amount and had a fist full of tickets for the drawing. Eric, Denise and I were at the bar drinking our pre-dinner cocktails, when they drew the number. We’d decided that if either Eric or Jeanne won it, the prize would go to Denise. My number, lucky number 31 was drawn, so Denise is going back to Bozeman, Montana with the chart, neatly folded up in her luggage.
Our last dinner on board was to be special and we’d looked forward to it, a four course meal served at table (not a buffet as most are). The first course was a total bust. All I saw in the description was “panna cotta”, so just assumed it had to be wonderful. It was like the three of us were being conducted in synchronicity. We each dipped into the beautiful presentation, each frowned, each put down our spoons, and shook our heads in the negative. How something that pretty could taste so awful was a mystery.
We had our choice of entrees, either Surf and Turf, Surf, Turf, or poached egg . . . Yep, poached egg. Eric said he had to order that to see what it was. What a mess. Presented in a soup plate, the egg was drowning in a thick and slightly curdled cheese sauce. Though the sauce was tasty, it was very salty, and totally unappetizing. Lucky that Eric had eaten a huge lunch ashore, so wasn’t going to go hungry skipping dinner.
The Surf and Turf was good, steak done to perfection and lobster good. Which brings me to the question, would I recommend this cruise to others? Remember that this is only my opinion. Rather than give it a yes or no answer, will give you some impressions.
The crew, most important on any cruise ship, are wonderful. So eager to please and always smiling.
There is no entertainment on the ship and I can certainly live with that. What there is seems to be an unwilling pianist who performs during lunch and dinner, who plays as though he is angry, every bit of music being played at the same tempo and intensity. I wanted to wring his neck!! I couldn’t name one piece of music that he played - awful!
The ship is beautiful, attention to detail and historical value of the ship are without equal. It is well kept and very clean.
The food needs work, a lot of work. Having Chef Michael aboard for that special dinner was wonderful, but then there are all the lunches and dinners that sometimes take away one’s appetite - perhaps not a bad thing! The menu certainly caters to the mostly German clientele, serving lots of wild game and putting thick, floury sauces on perfectly wonderful sautéed vegetables (ruins them!). I think the best meal of the day might just be breakfast - lots of healthy choices and lots of crispy bacon (I know, not so healthy)!
The complementary wine held a few surprises, but I’d like to see more attention paid to the choices. Perhaps this is again because the ship caters to a German clientele. I can’t really comment on the special wines which one pays for, because I only bought one bottle, and that’s not a fair judge.
The itinerary was a good one, taking us to some smaller ports. Had it not been for the really bad weather causing us to miss two ports, the experience would have even been better.
The reason I booked this cruise is for the sailing experience. Had never been on a ship with sails, and those that I might have considered in the past are some older ships from Windstar. I did come to find out that those sail systems are partially automated. This was the real thing, with sailors climbing the ropes, balancing precariously while untying thirty-two sails that would soon fill with wind. It was extraordinary and for that alone, am so happy that I had this experience.
October 12 - Saturday - Barcelona - Heading Home
Had a car and driver waiting to deliver me to the airport which I approached with some trepidation. Remember me two years ago at the Barcelona airport? I missed my flight - wasn’t going to happen this time!
Had some difficulty locating the “Fast Line” for security, but finally was through that and on my way to the correct concourse. Weren’t told that we needed to go through an additional passport check. The lines were so long that it took us the better part of an hour to get to the passport windows. So many people were going under the tape because they were close to missing their flights. Couldn’t fault them for that!
Finally got to my gate just at boarding time. Had to carry my hand-held luggage down a huge flight of stairs to get on a bus that took us out to the tarmac to board the plane, and then climb the steps with that damned carry-on. A sweet lady took part of the handle and we both carried it up the stairs. Finally, on the plane, and in my seat. This wouldn’t be a repeat of 2022!!
Now after going through Passport check and customs at D.C., am sitting in the Polaris lounge. Had a bite to eat and have about a ten minute walk ahead of me to get to the final gate.
It’s been an interesting week. Glad I did it!
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