Prior to travel, January 9, 2019
It's just two days prior to our leaving for Antarctica (John, Sandi and me!). Packing is underway, bills and taxes are paid. Will begin journaling on Friday, January 11, as we depart SFO for Houston, and then on to Santiago. We will board the ship, Seabourn Quest, in Valparaiso on Sunday, January 13, and our adventures will begin! Well, we will actually begin earlier, as we are slated to do a wine tour through the Maipo Valley on our way to the ship. Keep checking in to see what we're up to on a daily basis!!!
January 11 and 12; SFO to Santiago, Chile
We had an early start on Friday morning. Left the house at 7:00 because we were afraid that with the government shut down, there would be lines through the TSA process. After fitting the huge bags into a lovely sedan that called for us, and jamming ourselves into the back seat, we were off. We had little to worry about because the process was so slick. Am still thinking that we probably got into the incorrect line, yet when I checked over the area, there was nowhere to take out computers and put them into the usual bins for going through x-ray. No one was asked to take off their shoes, and before you could fully digest this tremendously efficient check-in, we were headed to the United Club where we could nibble, have some coffee and wait for our flight to be called. On our way to the gate, wondered whether or not one of these planes would be our transport!
But alas, we were boarded onto a beautiful Dreamliner airplane with individual cubicles for Business/First. Extremely private and comfortable. The seats turned to almost flat beds - very nice. While waiting to board we'd seen Eric, our travel agent, who was heading in the same direction as we. He would also be on our flight from Houston to Santiago, the second leg of our trip.
. . . and off we went - smooth takeoff and landing.
Upon arriving in Houston we had a 4 to 5 hour layover which turned into closer to 5-1/2 to 6 hours because of some unexplainable delays. The plane to Santiago was older than that of the first leg, but had the same cubicles installed so we were once again able to lie almost flat and get some sleep. That flight was eight hours. It was long - I don't sleep at all well on airplanes!!!
So tired when we arrived. Hadn't arranged a private transfer so we got a taxi. Though it was expensive, we did have tons of luggage between the three of us, but the driver and those who helped him with luggage were very nice to us.
Our hotel, The Singular in Santiago, is a lovely small hotel. The staff has that wonderful old world charm - so polite and gracious. Hard to believe that John and Sandi's room was ready when we arrived shortly before noon, and mine was ready just 20 minutes later. While we waited in the lounge and filled out paper work, we were served water infused with fresh orange - so refreshing, and a beautiful plate of chocolates arrived for our pleasure.
Eric had arrived at the hotel shortly before us and had an interesting tale. He'd left his backpack in the cab. The following fare found the backpack and forced (not certain how!) the driver to return to where he'd dropped off his last fare (Eric) to return the backpack, which contained camera, and all sorts of valuables. Eric had dodged a bullet!! Believe we were all a bit travel weary, so we all four retired to the roof lounge (bar) and spent the next two hours drinking Pisco Sours (John had a Manhattan!). So delicious. After we shared lots of Seabourn stories, it was time for a nap - at least for me! John and Sandi took a walk around the neighborhood. We would all four meet at 7:00 in the lobby and go out for dinner at a local restaurant. Will report on that later. While napping, the phone rang, and it was Maurizio, our wine expert for tomorrow's tour. He's discovered another wonderful winery and wondered if we could do three, rather than two. That would be fine, and to make it easier, told him that living so close to the wine country in California, we'd been on many tours, so we're only interested in the tasting rooms!!! Now, for sure, we'll get in all three wineries, and also a lunch on the way to Valparaiso, where the ship will be waiting for us!
January 13 - Santiago to San Antonio (Valparaiso)
Slept very well last night. Got to bed close to midnight!! We went to a WONDERFUL local restaurant "Peumayen" (Peruvian ancestral food) where the menu is mainly a tasting menu. Lots of different flavors created with local foods fashioned in traditional ways, yet served in a delightful new way - go figure!
We tried two different wines made locally. Both delicious, though I preferred the first. The second was decidedly better once we got to the entrees of our meal.
. . . and here are photos of our beautiful meal!
Though the walk to the restaurant was to be a thirteen minute jaunt, think we took an incorrect turn and had a lovely tour of local neighborhoods. Didn't have on the best shoes, so now have blisters on all my toes. It's comfy shoes for me this day. Though the food and wine were awesome, will always remember us sitting there in the afterglow of the lovely meal when there was suddenly a clatter as the waitress removed our trays, and next thing I knew the delicious red wine from Sandi's glass was splattered all over my WHITE scarf and light blue sweater. The waitress immediately suggested white wine to remove the red stains, but I demurred and asked for soda. Got the worst of it off, but the sweater I thought would certainly be ruined. The stains removed easily from my white scarf. Once back at the hotel decided to go ahead and soak the sweater in cold water. With a delicate scrubbing on the stains, did remove most of the red wine. Then rolled the sweater into a huge bath sheet, walked on the roll to remove most of the excess moisture, hung the sweater in the closet and hoped it would be wearable for the trip. Next morning, found that the sweater was looking pretty good! We found when reviewing the bill, that the restaurant did comp one bottle of our wine. That was really nice. Apologies were never ending - experience was just a part of being out in the world - it's a dangerous place!!!!
January 14 - Santiago to San Antonio (Valparaiso) and the Seabourn Quest
This day has been one filled with laughter (to the point of tears) and I'm certain that I'll never be able to convey the spirit of our experiences with mere words . . . but will try . . . After a lovely breakfast at the hotel, we got our luggage in order, checked out, and were met by Mauricio, our guide and wine expert. We would taste at a couple of wineries and then arrive at the ship around 2:00 (which turned out to be 3:00!). With all luggage stowed into the large Mercedes SUV, Claudio at the wheel, and Mauricio expounding on wine and life, we were off! Mauricio has missed his calling, because believe he should have been a stand-up comic. His humor with all information imparted to us made the day so entertaining. He has high energy . . . I mean . . . really high energy . . . perhaps exhaustingly high energy! He had a white board where he drew graphs, a flip down map of Chile which was attached onto the visor overhead, and hands that never stopped moving while he spoke. He is of Italian ancestry, in fact, Genoese. Said that should his hands be tied up, he would be mute!! Mauricio is the father of three girls, aged 11 to 18 - his advice to them is priceless and sometimes questionable, but one can tell that he is a fierce parent and loves his family beyond measure.
We began our tour of the Maipo Valley with a stop at Undurraga Winery, bought a lovely bottle of local red and toured a private park at the winery that was beautifully landscaped with flowering bushes and unique trees.
Then sat at a table outside and drank the wine, learned more about the art of wine tasting, but mostly about enjoying life (and wine!). The two are not mutually exclusive - one enhances the other!! Mauricio made the study almost theatrical - so much fun!
One of the best parts of this visit was listening to Mauricio talk about food as he recounted his 2 or 3 favorite recipes - he loves to cook! Though I cannot tell the story here, remind us when we return to let you know about certain foods and bloody noses.
We had so much fun there that I forgot about purchasing any wine for the ship! Oh well, would have one more chance at Casa Marin Winery. This wine had been listed on the menu at the restaurant last evening. Casa Marin Winery is owned and operated by a mother/son team and has been in existence for about 10 years. Our tasting was on a second-floor balcony and overlooked mountains and vineyards in all directions. Five wines were on the tasting menu - Syrah Rose, Sauvignon Gris (new to me), Pinot Noir, and two Syrahs.
Syrah Rose was very tasty, and would have been even better had it been colder. The Sauvignon Gris was truly remarkable - almost as good as my favorite Lambert Bridge Viognier (at half the price!), and that's a huge compliment to Casa Marin! The Pinot was delicious. The Syrahs were a disappointment to me. Am coming to understand that my palate doesn't like wines with too much minerality (is that a word?). Prefer a fruit-forward wine, one that is soft on the tongue . . . well, enough of that!!
After warm hugs and smiles, we left the winery with a car full of wine. Ended up buying a case and a half of wine to take to the ship - 2 Rose, 10 Sauvignon Gris, and 6 Pinot Noir. We look forward to enjoying these with our meals the next three weeks. We were finally at the port of San Antonio and able to board the ship. Our suites are outstanding. Am very excited to be a first time Spa Suite occupant. My balcony which is more like a patio, is at the back of the ship and the breadth, depth and width (is breadth and width the same?!?!) of the view is breath taking and for viewing the beauty that is Antarctica, will be absolute perfection. There is only one drawback and that is that my suite is on the 10th deck aft. The sway of the ship out at sea is a little bit more than being amidship on the seventh or eighth decks which is usually where my suites have been on past cruises. . . so I must be more careful and not trip or fall. Here are some photos of my suite - am certainly spoiled!
After the muster drill, John, Sandi and I met on the pool deck for cocktails and the sail-a-way. It would seem that between John and Sandi and their keen senses of humor this trip will continue to be filled with laughter. Now, how to describe the next part and not get into trouble. As we sipped and watched the passengers below us who were settled in around the pool listening to music, John spotted a "celebrity". We are traveling with a popular television evangelist, his wife, and possibly another couple, the second man might also be another TVE. For purposes of this article we are naming him "Dick Rickles". You'll have to wait for us to get home to find out how we named him!!! At any rate, the remainder of the cocktail hour and dinner was filled with ideas on how we might pay for this trip, i.e., hiding behind palms, taking photos (to be later sold to the gossip rags), outright stalking, possibly faking an injury to be instantly cured should we accidentally run into the aforesaid "Dick". John and Sandi suggested that I might drag my left leg around for the next three days, so an accidental meeting could possibly affect an instant cure. Since the ankle surgery, I still do have some swelling, so we could make it look like a bona fide limp! Sandi, on the other hand was going to develop a lisp. She would be "thailing the theven theas" and her lisp would also be instantly cured upon an accidental (planned) meeting. The ideas got more silly with each sip of wine. Such a fun dinner at Earth and Ocean Grill out on deck under the heat lamps - food was delicious, too! By writing this account, I have no intention to make light of miracles. Am an ardent believer in them! However, to sell miracle water to people who can ill afford it, and to pre-plan and set up said miracles gives a bad name to simple but profound faith, where almost anything is possible. Enough said! . . . and so too bed.
. . . or we can rename this town, "City of the Sleeping Dogs"!! . . . or . . ."Ciudad de los Perros Dormidos"!
This last was the best one - doesn't that dog look totally cozy??? Believe that all of these dogs who don't appear to belong to any one person, must roam through the night looking for food, and when the sun comes up they all go to sleep - totally exhausted. There are everywhere!!
After tendering ashore we decided to walk the main streets. There is such a heap of ramshackle buildings. One wonders how they hold up in bad weather. In the distance there are some modern buildings which could be hotels. I don't recall these newer buildings being here when last I visited.
There is a very pretty old church near the town square (Plaza de Armes) - Catedral de Puerto Montt. Here are photos. Note that most flowers in the church are all "pretend"!
We walked and meandered about two miles total, looking into shops, and mostly enjoying the individual purveyors of fresh fruit and veggies, and assorted other exotic foods. Will let the photos do the talking!
Dried Eel - first thought they were belts!!
From way-too-large fava beans (they'll be very tough once cooked) to candy - tons of goods for sale everywhere. What shall I buy?? Puerto Montt is a port city and commune in southern Chile, located in the northern end of the Reloncavi Sound in the Llanquihue Province, Los Lagos Region. In our first visit here, Adolfo and I did an all-day tour which included lunch at a beautiful lake, Petrohue Falls, and a boat tour on Lago Esmeralda where we were able to view three massive volcanoes, the main being Osarno - all snow-capped. John and Sandi preferred to walk the town, so that we did!
Back to the ship for a late lunch on deck, and then retired for a wonderful nap. Caviar and our own wine from Casa Marin in my suite, a pre-dinner folklorico show with entertainers from the nearby town, and then on to dinner for the famous Thomas Keller buttermilk fried chicken in the Colonnade. The chicken was delicious though the crunchy batter was a bit much. Didn't need so much of it around the chicken, but it was probably what kept the chicken inside so tasty and moist. Left John and Sandi to enjoy a nightcap in the Observation Lounge and I went to bed. Am fighting a sore throat, and with the help of Airborne am determined to be the victor!!
Castro is a commune in Chile of the Province of Chiloe, in the Chiloe Archipelago. It is the third oldest city in Chile. The Spanish conquerors took possession of the archipelago in 1567. The City Park is located at the top of the city and every summer the Festival Costumbrista Chilote is held there - the largest of its kind in southern Chile. In this park there are areas to eat, where neighborhood units place stalls to sell typical food and local crafts. In addition, the exhibition is held in the Biodiversity Fair, offering samples of agricultural products, for example, the different varieties of potatoes grown throughout the archipelago. This is a very picturesque port and we are anchored off the town, being tendered in. John and Sandi have decided to go in for a walk, but am staying aboard to catch up the journal, perhaps have a nap, and drink more Airborne!! . . . and maybe a morning nap. Exciting, no!?!?!?! This afternoon at 4:30, Eric has arranged a private galley tour for those aboard with Ensemble Travel. I napped, but John and Sandi did go and am anxious to hear how that went. Sandi sent me a photo of her nabbing a super cookie (from the Thomas Keller Grill), while on the galley tour.
John has crashed! Following the galley tour and a double espresso, he so wanted to sleep but caffeine became boss! He decided to skip dinner and try to sleep. There was no way that I was going to miss dinner at the Thomas Keller Grill (which Eric arranged), so Sandi and I joined Eric for a wonderful dinner. Sandi had a good eggplant parmesan, but it could have been better. Love that we can critique TK's food and perhaps improve on it! HAH! Sandi and I both agreed that the eggplant hadn't been prepped to allow the bitter juices to escape prior to cooking. Left a bitter after taste in the mouth. I enjoyed the veal t-bone which was super delicious, but way too much meat. The little fried ball on top of the veal was breaded bone marrow - so rich - over the top!
There is a list of sides from which you can choose. But since we were with Eric, he decided that Sandi's first time at a TK Grill should have all sides accompany the meal - these included, glazed carrots, sautéed mushrooms, roasted potatoes, spinach, and the piece de resistance - Mac 'n cheese!! That last dish was really quite delicious. Accompanied by a fabulous red wine - forgot to take a photo, but it was from Australia, the Barossa Valley, a Shiraz.
Last, but not least was the famous ice cream sundae. It begins with homemade marshmallow at the bottom of the glass, followed by freshly made ice cream to which is added both chocolate sauce and caramel sauce, plus toasted pecans - absolutely sinful! Of course, whipped cream and a cherry on top finished off this beautiful dessert.
I love days at sea. The hours of the day go by in a lovely, relaxed atmosphere. The only challenge is to keep one's balance as we traverse the ship. We've hit a few rocky patches, but not that has sent me to bed! Can't remember if I've already told this, but have decided to try acupuncture while on the ship. Will have ten sessions, mostly targeting the swelling in my left ankle (from the surgery). Have so far had three sessions. They are not painful, last approximately 45 minutes, and then I'm once again on my way. Am hopeful that this will turn around the swelling that has plagued me since my ankle replacement surgery a little over one year ago. Yesterday, while John was at the gym, he began sending texts. Our ship "celebrity" seems to turn up wherever we are, so John continues his sightings. The celebrity's name has evolved from Dick Rickles, to Rickie Dickles. This falls more trippingly off the tongue, especially when one is drinking wine!
We three met for the pre-dinner show. The Seabourn Singers and dancers are made up of two young women and two young men (all singers), and a male and female team who are Russian trained ballet dancers, and those two put together some wonderful choreography. The music was excellent - lots of talent in this group! We then went on to dinner at the Colonnade, where John had made reservations. Tonight would be rib-eye steak night, ala TK. Really delicious dinner, and would you believe we had the table right next to Rickie Dickles!! To make it even worse, the man behind me from Europe spent the whole evening regaling his table mates with everything he believed to be wrong with Americans and our culture. He's certainly does have a right to his own thoughts, but to be so loud about it on a ship where most of the guests are American is a bit insensitive - don't you think? At one point, I toyed with the idea of loading my spoon with mashed potatoes and launching the blob over my head and into his lap! That thought entertained me for quite a while! After dinner, it was a turn at the Blackjack table, where we were lucky, and so to bed .. . . Next Day . . . Today I awoke and pulled open the curtains to find this beautiful vista right off my deck!
This morning, we were invited to a breakfast in Eric's suite. He is in an owner suite at the bow of the ship, and has lots of space. The ship's kitchen staff brought in lovely pastries, quiches, eggs with lobster and miniature eggs Benedict - all yummy. At the bar were choices of Mimosas or Bloody Mary's.
. . . while out on deck they were serving hot chocolate and fresh donuts. The wind was so strong that the donuts were blowing off the serving dish. The deck looked as though it had been raining donuts!!
The celebratory occasion was cruising of the Sarmiento Channel and our approach to
the El Brujo Glacier.
Sarmiento Channel is a principal Patagonia channel, which extends in a north-south direction. It is the southward continuation of the Guia Narrows (Angostura Guia) and is located in Magallanes y Antartica Chilean Region. The kawesqar people sailed its waters from around 6,000 years ago until the end of the 20th century, as they inhabited its coasts. The channel is named after Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa who was a Spanish explorer. He navigated the region's waterways between 1579 and 1580. This area has many glaciers throughout the Cordillera Sarmiento, one of which is El Brujo - very famous and very beautiful! The scenery today has been truly magnificent. Very strong (in appearance), barren mountains line the channel on either side of the ship, further decorated with swaths of fog - beautiful! After a lovely dinner in the Restaurant, we retired to the Observation Lounge to continue our viewing and enjoy a nightcap. At 10:30 p.m., it was still light out, but fading. Left John and Sandi in the Observation Lounge to retire but changed my mind and went to the Casino. Played poker for a change and just when I began a downward slide (that eventually always happens!), I was dealt three nines and won very big. Left the table immediately and went home winners!! Usually found where I am gambling, the law of diminishing returns is currently at rest! Am certain that it will make its appearance soon!
January 19 - Punta Arenas, Chile
Woke this morning to find us docked in Punta Arenas. All was quiet aboard ship. Opened the curtains to find two of the crew working on my deck. Don't know what they were doing, but think (since they had on masks) that it was something involving dust or toxic paint!! John and Sandi have gone ashore for a good, long walk. I put on my hiking boots with very good intentions, but seem to be stuck here at Seabourn Square, enjoying my morning latte and a bran muffin. Will depend on them to get me some good photos for this blog.
Photos by John . . . The cemetery seemed to be the place that got the most visitors. Sandi and John said that it was so well kept, beautifully manicured, and locals coming and going after they'd paid respects and left flowers.
Punta Arenas (meaning "Sandy Point") is a commune and the capital city of Chile's southernmost region. Magallanes and Antarctica Chilean. The city was officially renamed Magallanes in 1927, but in 1938 it was changed back to Punta Arenas. It is the largest city south of the 46th parallel south. Sitting by the Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas was in the past indisputably considered the world's southernmost city, although in the 20th century new settlements have grown to a considerable size further south, for example Ushuaia and Rio Grande in Argentina. This city has also been called "the city of the red roofs" for the red-painted metal roofs that characterized the city for many years.
We had an easy afternoon and then got ready for another formal night. Tonight in the main restaurant, there is a Chef's Dinner. This consists of signature dishes (tasting menu) prepared by our Executive Chef de Cuisine, Christopher Graham. Here is the menu: * Smoked Salmon Pave - avocado mousse, caviar creme fraiche * Porcini Risotto - truffle jelly, wild mushrooms * Celeriac Cappuccino - blue cheese, apple cider * Yuzu and Passionfruit Granite - coconut, chilli * Slow Roasted Beef Tenderloin - short rib cigar, turnip puree, pickled beets OR * Prosciutto Wrapped Monkfish - shellfish tortellino, romesco puree, palourde clam * Chocolate Moelleux - raspberry, basil, honey comb * Selection of Petit Fours and lovely wines. Was so busy eating all of the good food that I forgot to take any photos!! We all enjoyed the Monkfish, though that particular fish is not my favorite. Everything was so beautifully presented. After dinner we retired to the poker table, and then on to Blackjack. Both John and I came away winners. Just know that my usual bad luck is lurking right around the corner. During the night we had some very bumpy seas - we'd been warned earlier by the captain to tuck away anything in our suites that might take a tumble.
Woke this morning at the entrance of Glacier Alley on our way to Ushuaia. As I remembered from two previous trips through this area, the glaciers are spectacular. One we are passing right now is that gorgeous glacial blue, but half way down to the sea, develops into a huge and thunderous waterfall. Am in Seabourn Square having my morning coffee and without a camera - darn! Will hope that Sandi and John having breakfast upstairs will catch a photo. Have purloined this photo from Eric's Facebook page!! Thank you, EG!!
Courtesy of Sandi.
This afternoon at 1:30, Eric has arranged a Chilean wine and cheese tasting in my suite for perhaps eight persons - his clients who are aboard the Quest. He has timed it near our approach to Ushuaia. Have cleared all counters so that the kitchen staff can set up the spread. Meanwhile, at 9:30, our Antarctic Group (White Group) has a briefing in the Grand Salon. We will be addressed by the Expedition Lead on the do's and don'ts of our Antarctic landings, zodiac cruises and kayak paddles. I have been reviewing my photos from 2003 when Adolfo and I first saw this area. The glaciers seem remarkably the same in size and beauty, though we are here this time one month earlier in the season.
Courtesy of John. Such a dramatic sky! Weather today is cold and very damp. There is a heavy mist hovering at the mountain tops which sometimes works its way down to the water's edge. The water, as a result of the melting glacial ice, has taken on the usual milky hue.
Ushuaia is the capital city of Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina. It is commonly regarded as the southernmost city in the world (which would knock out yesterday's information!!). The city is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, bounded on the north by the Martial mountain range and on the south by the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia has a sub polar oceanic climate. On average, the city experiences 200 days of light rain or snow each year, with many cloudy and foggy days. Local birds, penguins, seals and orcas abound in the region.
We are berthed at the foot of the town that is nestled in gigantic snow-tipped mountains. Actually, the mountains surround this beautiful bay. While I marvel at the spectacular scenery all around us, the staff are setting up the goodies for today's wine tasting. In all, we are tasting nine wines - guess I'll opt for a nap after the party, rather than go in to Ushuaia as I have been here twice previously. Just in time for the tasting, the sun has come out and it is actually warm out on my private deck. Planning could not have been more perfect, but then. . . Eric does "know a guy"!!
A beautiful cheese platter with fruit and assorted toppings - and once again, West Marin cheeses highlight the platter!
Cheese fondue with three different kinds of bread to dip.
A spicy fresh crab salad - so tasty with a bit of heat and cilantro.
Crab Newburg, served in individual crab leg half-shells.
Goat cheese soufflé's topped with a sweet garlic froth.
Tonight we dined at the TK Grill along with Eric, who managed to change our reservation from 8:30 to 7:45 - much better. Starters included crab cake, Caesar salad, and artichoke dip.John had the tasty Veal Chop, Eric and I had the Dover Meuniere and Sandi had the iconic TK Roast Chicken. Everything was really good and we paired it with a Peter Michael "L' Apres-Midi" Sauvignon Blanc from Napa. This time we shared a sundae. Just a couple of spoons full of this delicious dessert is more than adequate. Eric had the Strawberry Vacherin.
Seems like all we did today was drink wine - am feeling totally pickled!!!
January 21 - Drake's Passage
The Drake Passage connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans between Cape Horn (the southernmost point of South America) and the South Shetland Islands situated about 100 miles north of the Antarctic Peninsula. The Drake Passage defines the zone of limit transition separating the cool, humid, sub polar conditions of Tierra del Fuego and the frigid, Polar Regions of Antarctica. Though bearing the name of the famous English seaman and global circumnavigator, Sir Francis Drake, the passage was first traversed in 1616 by a Flemish expedition led by Willem Schouten. Drake Passage played an important part in the trade of the 19th and early 20th centuries before the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The stormy seas and the icy conditions made the rounding of Cape Horn through the Drake Passage a rigorous test for ships and crews alike, especially for the sailing vessels of the day. In this area the climate changes from cool, humid, and sub polar to the frozen conditions of Antarctica. Drake Passage is also the shortest route from Antarctica to the rest of the world. The only islands in the passage are the Diego Ramirez Islands, about 60 kilometers south of Cape Horn. The passage is also particularly good for seeing whales, dolphins, seabirds and penguins. Fresh flowers in the suite when I came in last night.
Today we awakened to rolling seas - walking with grace is a bit of a challenge - and sunshine which makes the sky and ocean very blue - perfect!! There are lots of clouds on the horizon - hope they stay there. About the walking, have decided to have some snappy music in my head and just pretend that I'm dancing!
Throughout the day there are scheduled preparations for our arrival tomorrow in Antarctica which include, Bio Security for all clothing to be worn on Antarctica that has been previously worn elsewhere. The seams and pockets are examined for any bit of dirt, seeds, etc., so as to minimize the impact on our landing on the magical continent. Then there will be a boot fitting and storage in lockers that are numbered to coincide with our suite numbers, and just before dinner (yet another meal!) at 6:30 there is a final recap and briefing with the Expedition Team.
Throughout the day there are also conversations/lectures with members of the Expedition Team with regard to the different kinds of penguins - Adelie, Chinstrap and Gentoo. And, mustn't miss the talk about "Pinnepeds of the Antarctic and Sub Antarctic Oceans". Also, "Life in the Ocean - Everything But Fish"!!
It's a very full day. Have to squeeze in an hour for my fifth acupuncture session at 2:00, and of course, the mandatory nap, for which I'm already yearning! Have been back and forth to be fitted for boots, get clothing checked out, then had to go back for something else, and locked myself out of the suite - had to get a new key. After a final briefing, we had dinner in The Restaurant, and on our way out it was announced that we had our first icebergs. These were more like an iceberg continent - so very large, but the excitement was mounting because we knew we were close to our destination. Went to the Casino for a little while and lost money so fast that it was depressing. Just as I was ready to go to the suite, got a straight flush which paid quite well, then a flush, then another straight, and before I knew it, was only down $5 for the night. Time to retire, and I did!
January 22 - ANTARCTICA!!! - Yankee Harbour
We are here! Arose at 5:45 a.m. and dressed partially for the day. We were assigned a landing to begin at 8:00 a.m., but meanwhile, there was the approach to Antarctica, and Yankee Harbor.
Yankee Harbour is a small inner harbor entered from Shopski Cove between Glacier Bluff and Spit Point, indenting the southwest side of Greenwich Island in the South Shetland Islands, Antarctica. It is 1.46 miles long in west-south-west to east-north-east direction, and 0.99 miles wide. It is bounded by Provadiya Hook (a glacial moraine) to the southwest, Parvomay Neck to the north and east, and Kladara Beach to the south. Yankee Harbour surrounded by volcanic rocks of the South Shetland arc, was known to both American sealers and the British (who called it Hospital Cove) as early as 1820, and this name is now established in international usage. Port Foster, the crater harbour of Deception Island, has at times also been referred to as Yankee Harbour. As well as mosses, lichens and algae, the flowering plants Antarctic Hairgrass and Antarctic Pearlwort occur. The site has been identified as an important Bird Area by BirdLife International because it supports a breeding colony of about 5000 pairs of Gentoo Penguins. Skuas, Wilson's Storm Petrels, and Snowy Sheathbills are also thought to nest6 there. Southern Elephant Seals, Weddell Seals and Antarctic Fur Seals regularly haul out on the beaches.
So many layers of clothing to assemble, and while I laid it all out last evening, still had to think about what I could/should wear now, and what to put on just before going down to check into our zodiacs. Should I put it all on now, would probably die of heat prostration while inside the ship.
First, cotton/wool socks (later would add the heavy wool socks)
Thermal tights, and heavy tights over them. (later would add the waterproof pants)
Silk turtleneck, thermal long-sleeved overskirt.
Quilted zippered jacket (later would add the waterproof, hooded bright orange jacket)
. . . and then, on top of all of that, you add the life jacket, which is quite heavy!!
Today, Adolfo is with us, as we are all wearing something that he wore in 2015 on our last cruise to Antarctica. He's happy!
While I dressed, kept checking outside and could see the crane that was lifting the zodiacs from the ship out into the water. The views from this suite are so good!
It was very cold outside. Fortunately, there was no wind, and the water was almost like glass, with tons of ice floating. Looked like a giant, dirty, slushy martini!!! As I write this, we are surrounded by glacial ice and snow on three sides of the ship. The photos I've taken just don't do justice to the grandeur, the scope, of what we are viewing. The only thing that could make the day perfect would be a blue sky. Right now, the sky is almost the same color as the snow and ice, so we have a huge, white to light-gray panorama, with some black rock and hues of glacial blue in the snow and ice. Hundreds of Gentoo Penguins on shore, though I chose to take photos of only the solitary birds.
Plumb tuckered out!
"I need a bath!"
Giant Petrels that prey on penguin chicks.
This Mama's chicks won't hatch soon enough so they won't be mature enough to survive the freeze.
Photo courtesy of Eric Goldring
Nice time ashore in Yankee Harbour, even though there was a slight drizzle. Today I left my walking sticks in the suite - won't do that again. Walking on uneven ground and slippery rocks coupled with old joints is not a winning combo!! The sun just came out for a few minutes - got a couple more photos!
Note the zodiacs in the forefront.
Ate dinner tonight in my suite with the "kids"! Ordered a very good room service, ended with cookies and Irish coffee . . . . . because we were in and out of the suite in the icy cold, watching the parade of ice bergs and trying to take photos to share with all of you. Here are mine - John's are the best!! The huge iceberg is 20 miles long and I forgot how wide - impossible to take it all in. We've been cruising around it for almost two hours. The views are incredible. My suite is on the tenth deck with a little more of the ship above me. The iceberg towers over the ship, and what we see above water is only one-eighth of it. Seven eighths are below the water line!!
Penguins out in the middle of the ocean on an ice floe.
. . . and then a smaller berg with glorious color . . . these last photos were taken at 10:00 p.m. in the natural light.
This looks more like ice sculpture!!
This next bit is from my journal 4 years ago.
Friday, February 13, 2015
Half Moon Island, Antarctica
The air is redolent with penguin poop!!! The day is beautiful, no wind, temperatures of about 38 to 40 degrees, with some sunshine. Weather. We are in the red group and the second to debark to the island. Zodiac ride from ship to shore should be very calm. Organized all of the clothing last evening, so just have to be certain of the order of layers to be worn. We each have two basic under layers, Getting into the "under armor" is like getting into an old fashioned girdle - takes lots of energy and is way too much clothing for indoors. After the two basic layers, we add on waterproof / windproof pants, a fleece vest. I've added a balaclava, which is a fleece circular scarf for around my neck, and a wool hat. . . . and we're not done yet! Next is the quilted under jacket, and the outer expedition jacket in bright orange and grey. On the left arm we fasten a red plastic arm band that holds our room key / identification information. This is scanned when we leave and return to the ship. Zippered pockets are everywhere in our expedition outerwear. All clothing must be zipped up with hood on, when we arrive at the debarkation lounge where a life vest is added - one that will automatically inflate if you land in the water. Life vest on, we move on to the outer room where numbered cages that correspond to our suite numbers hold our boots. Off come the normal shoes that we've squeezed on over two pair of heavy socks, shoes go into the cage and tall rubber boots go on. There are crew members there to help us climb into the boots. Have so many clothes on, can hardly bend over! We are now ready to board the zodiac. Before we board the zodiac, we step into an antiseptic bath to be certain the boots do not bring any unwanted bacteria on to the pristine island. We've been instructed on the proper arm grasp - the sailor's grasp - hand to arm. There is a crew or expedition member on each side of us as we are handed into the zodiac. It is an extreme pleasure to get out into the cooler air, because with all of the clothing we now are beginning to sweat. It is cool out on the water - nice!
Today's weather is sunny with lots of blue skies. Spectacular snow covered islands against deep blue ocean and light blue skies. Temperatures are supposed to be below freezing - yes, it is cold!! Luckily, there is no wind. Today we are in the last group ashore and will begin our landing at 2:00 p.m, provided there are no delays. We can only hope and pray that weather conditions stay the same. Photo opportunities should be awesome.
At least the first round of kayaking has been cancelled due to high winds - it is not safe for guests to be out and about in a kayak in this remote area, with such cold water!!!
The views from my balcony have drawn John and Sandi up to my suite and I'm still in my pajamas and robe!! Oh, well - it's family!! After a quick lunch, caught a 40-minute nap and jumped into my clothing for our jaunt on to Half Moon Island. The weather today has steadily declined. From our very sunny morning, the skies have continually greyed, but it is not raining. I don't mind the grey skies. However, the blue skies make for much more beautiful photos. Oh, well, just so happy to be here! John and Sandi did a long walk out to the point to see seals and sea lions, and after a short walk, I just stood at a high point and kept turning a few steps every few minutes. Everywhere I looked there was beauty - I mean BEAUTY! Sometimes, it is recommended that one puts down the camera and just absorbs the beauty that God created. There seems to be so much more ice and snow here since the last time Adolfo and I were here in 2015.
Note the baby chick at 9:00 in the photo - all brown with baby feathers
The chinstrap penguins are so cute - and there are tons of them! They flourish on Half Moon Island. Half Moon Island is one of the most beautiful sites in the South Shetlands. Sharp craggy slabs of rock covered in brilliant orange, yellow and black lichens provide nesting sites for Chinstrap penguins that have some of the best views around. Glacier-covered Livingston Island is visible from most points of the island. A large, active Chinstrap penguin colony (over 3,000 breeding pairs) is the main attraction and there is an Antarctic cormorant colony on the southern tip of the island. Antarctic terns, Kelp gulls, Snowy sheathbills and usually a few Weddell seals are also found on shore. Nesting skuas will make themselves known to those who cross over into their territory. Later in the season, Antarctic fur seals and Southern elephant seals will haul out and rest on the beaches. Camara Station, run by the Argentines, is situated in the middle of the island. This small base, established in 1953 was underutilized and largely abandoned for many years, but is now occupied for most of the summer season.
I will remember my time without a camera today - the beauty is indelibly imprinted on my brain! My fervent wish is for everyone to have the Antarctic experience. PS: Hey! Let me know if you are reading my posts. If you can't make a comment on the post, then send me an email! Thanks!!
The five photos above are Purloined Pix!! I have permission of Goldring Travel to share photos from his blog. Great photos - Thank You, Eric Goldring!!
Today we were to land on Cuverville Island, or ice de Caveliewr de Cuverville. It is a dark, rocky island lying in the Errera Channel. It is the home of6500 pairs of Gentoo Penguins, the largest colony for this species on the Antarctic Peninsula, but alas, the weather has caused the captain to alter our daily schedule.
Today we awoke to 60 mph winds, snow and rain. It is so very cold - can't remember ever being this cold, even with adequate gear! Sandi was up early this morning and out on their balcony. She spotted nearly 40 whales, and they put on a very good show for her!!
All onshore activities are cancelled. The wind and swells make it too dangerous for us to be in either kayaks or zodiacs. So instead, we are cruising into the caldera of an active volcano, and will hopefully enter the Le Maire Channel, which is my absolute favorite place of our last cruise here.
This was the second try for the ship during the Antarctic summer, but there are still icebergs blocking the passage. Though they have moved some, not safe for the ship to enter.
John and Sandi were out on my balcony, fighting the wind and taking gorgeous photos. I tried, but wind forced me inside to take photos through the windows. This gave all of my photos a blue hue which is not real. But even so, you will get a feeling of the grandeur of this area.
Only photos I tried to take outside:
These next photos were taken from inside my suite. They should be just black and white as that is the natural color of what we are seeing.
This last photo is through the window in my bedroom area. I can lie in bed and watch the beauty go by. Even if I wake in the middle of the night, it is light enough to view what we are passing. Tonight we dined with Eric in the TK Grill. Once again, lovely food. Took photos on my iPhone and right now have no way to transfer to my computer. Will have to wait until we get to the Falklands in a few days, then will update this blog. Finished the evening with a little play at Blackjack and Poker - but left the tables dead even. No gains, no losses - guess that's a WIN!!
January 25 - Torgersen Island, Antarctica
The view from my suite!!! That's the tallest iceberg I've yet seen! Last evening, rather than cruise about in the high winds and rough seas, Captain took us to an anchorage just off Torgersen Island. We had a restful night and dreamed of blue skies and sunshine. Our dreams came true. It is a beautiful morning, but still, oh so cold!!! We were given warning that the scheduled cruises today in the zodiacs will be wet and rough. Have elected to stay aboard ship and let the youngsters do this one on their own! It worked out rather well because I did have an acupuncture session that I could keep. Have had to cancel one other because of scheduling of our white group ashore. Groups of guests are issued arm bands in different colors - white, red, green, purple and red. Each group is given an assigned time for shore excursions in Antarctica. We three are in the white group. As I write this, there are whales spouting in the distance. Not close enough to get a good photo! The first kayak excursion this morning was cancelled. Just heard over the intercom, that next group would have a try! Still looks pretty choppy out there!
Torgersen Island is a small rocky island lying just east of Litchfield Island in the entrance to Arthur Harbor, off the southwest coast of Anvers Island in the Palmer Archipelago of Antarctica. It was surveyed by the Falkland Islanders Dependencies Survey I 1955 and named by the UK-APC for Torstein Torgersen, first mate of the "Harbor" in late February 1955, preceding the vessel "Norsel" in one of the ship's boats and making soundings.
Torgersen Island is the site of a study on the impacts of tourism, and has been divided into two areas, one open to visitors and the other closed as a site for scientific reference. This site together with other nearby islands not visited by tourists provide a unique experimental setting to examine the relative effects of natural versus human induced variability on Adelie penguin populations. The long term data sets obtained from this site are of particular value in understanding the impacts of tourism on birds.
John and Sandi had a great time in the zodiac cruise, but they did get bounced around a lot and wet!!
Getting the kayaks ready for the intrepid . . . .
There was a special event on the pool deck this afternoon, though named "Caviar on Ice", there was more to eat than just caviar. Still cannot understand the huge demand for this delicacy - for me, it's okay, but really like what goes with it - the egg, sour cream, onion, capers - and for some, potato chips! YEP! Potato chips!!! While I watched them set up the deck for the event, crew created an ice table for caviar. Here are photos:
. . . and the finished product - VOILA!!
. . . fully stocked!!!
This ice table would later be dismantled and saved for two days later when the pieces would be dumped into the swimming pool, and an Arctic Plunge created for any and all who wanted to partake of the icy water - UGH! - NOT I!!
We three enjoyed the nibbles (two kinds of smoked salmon, one with beets and one with sugar and salt, charcuterie, caviar, and one other that slips my mind!), along with shots of Aquavit, Vodka and I lost count! It was certainly time to eat. I was getting goofier and goofier!
During one of my "goofier" moments, Sandi took the photo on the left and created this wonderful concoction that she posted on Facebook! Had to share!
After dinner, we were treated to more beautiful scenery.
Was awake most of the night, so lucky because this beautiful site presented itself at 3:30 a.m. It was worth not sleeping!
Gonzalez Videla Base, on the Antarctic mainland's Waterboat Point in Paradise Bay, is named after Chilean President Gabriel Gonzalez Videla, who in the 1940's became the first chief of state of any nation to visit Antarctica. The station was active rom 1951-1958, and was reopened briefly in the early 1980's. It is now an "inactive" base, with fuel and supplies in storage in the buildings for emergency use, or in vase the base were to be reactivated in the future. Occasional summer visits are made by Chilean parties and tourists. On the north edge of the station there is a sign identifying Waterboat Point as an official historic site under the Antarctic Treaty. This was the place3 where the smallest ever wintering-over party (two men) spent a year and a day in 1921-1922. The two men, Thomas Bagshawe and M.C. Lester, had been part of the British Imperial Expedition, but their particular project which involved flying a number of aircraft to the South Pole, was aborted. Nevertheless, they decided to stay over for the winter and made their shelter in an old whaling boat they found on this site. Their time was not wasted, however, because Bagshawe wrote the first scientific study of penguin breeding development. And today the gents, probably descendants of the ones he studied, nest in the ruins of the whaleboat shelter.
I chose to stay aboard today (have been at this landing in 2015), so my photos are from my balcony. The weather was beautiful today.
Dinner tonight with Eric in the TK Grill. Food was good, though I ate very lightly - have hit the wall.
Eric had the Meyer lemon tart for dessert. Believe he thought it looked better than it tasted.
Then up to my suite, hoping for a really good night's sleep, but before that could be accomplished, there were whales everywhere. Most too far away for my camera to get clear shots, but this might give you a glimpse of what we saw.
The best shot I missed. A whale breached right in front of me, a vertical push straight out of the water, two-thirds of him in mid-air, prior to creating a big splash as he landed in the sea. Awesome! Believe superlatives have been used a bit too much in these posts, but there aren't enough superlatives in the English language to do this region justice.
. . . and so to bed.
These last two photos are more Purloined Photos from Eric Goldring, of Goldring Travel. If you want to read a really good travel blog of this trip, and lots of other trips that Eric has undertaken, please go to: http://www.goldringtravel.com These photos are not touched up, or enhanced!! Colors really were that brilliant! . . . and these photos from Sandi.
Sandi says the whales are waving "goodbye"!! I thought they might be practicing synchronized swimming!
I have no photos for today out on the zodiac! Left my camera charging in the suite! Perhaps I can add some later, as Sandi did have her phone with her! Sandi and I (John chose a stay-in day) went out in a zodiac in a region that is referred to as "Whale Soup"! There were Humpback Whales everywhere. Our Expedition Team guide felt that we should take this opportunity to just whale watch, and not worry about any birds or penguins. We all agreed - eight of us. There were at least a dozen whales in the water all around us. There are rules as to how closely we can approach them. At one point our guide turned off the motor of the zodiac, and we just watched and listened. An odd assortment of sounds as they fed, swam, dove to display flukes and entertain us with their grace. Here again, there are no words. I will forever remember the quiet stillness as we watched and listened to the whales. So memorable.
Enterprise Island, or Isla Lientur, or Isla Nansen rote, or North Nansen Island (they should make up their minds!) is an island that is 1.5 miles long and lies at the northeast end of Nansen Island in Wilhelmina Bay, off the west coast of Graham Land. Enterprise Island and Nansen Island were first charted as one feature and named "ile Nansen" by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition under Adrien de Gerlache in 1898. The islands became well known to whalers operating in the area in the early 1900's and the names North Nansen Island and South Nansen Island were used to distinguish them. Since Nansen Island has now become established for the larger feature, the new name Enterprise Island has been given to the smaller island by the United Kingdom Antarctic Place-names Committee (UK-APC) commemorating the enterprise of the whalers who made the anchorage at the south side of the island at Foyn Harbor, a major center of summer industry during the period 1916-1930. Foyn Harbor was first surveyed by T.W. Bagshawe and M.C. Lester in 1921-22. It was named by whalers after the whaling factory ship Svend Foyn, which was moored here during 1921-22. (Well, that was confusing!)
The afternoon was filled with napping after a simple omelet lunch in my suite, and then I slept most of the afternoon. Was so cold when we got back from the zodiac trip. The day had begun with a fierce snow storm, and for the rest of the day grey skies and intermittent light snow prevailed. Finally got warm in my nap, fully dressed and under a wool blanket. Woke refreshed, and ready to tackle tonight's dinner. This dinner would be a tour de force! Eric had arranged a special dinner for his clients aboard the Quest, so at table there were May, Alice, Peter, Doug, John, Sandi and me - and Eric. My photos for the day will be of the dinner which was prepared by Executive Chef de Cuisine Christopher Graham.
FOIE GRAS AND CHERRY BON-BON
apple butter, maple-pistachio granola
Concha Y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Maule Valley, Chile
SLOW COOKED LOBSTER TAIL
smoked beetroot puree, blood orange, fennel pollen, caraway
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne, France
SEARED SCALLOP
truffle jelly, cep espuma
Paco & Lola Albarizo, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain
CAPPUCCINO
wild mushroom, truffle foam, cepe powder
Veramonte Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley, Chile
BLACK COD
braised oxtail raviolo, celeriac puree, bourguignon jus
Louis Latour Grand Ardeche, Rhone Valley, France
VENISON WELLINGTON
parsnip puree, pickled red cabbage, port and vadouvan jus
Les Ajustiers Rasteau, Rhone Valley, France
MANGO GRANITA
a palate cleanser
RED POACHED PEAR CLAFOUTIS goat's milk ice cream, salted caramel, blackberry Sarocco Moscato D'Asti, Piedmont, Italy
While every single dish was noteworthy, my absolute favorites were the first and last presentations. If only I could reproduce that first one - such a wonderful surprise in the mouth!! Might be able to replicate the dessert, but without the goat's milk ice cream - when eating that, felt I should be spreading it on a cracker!!
January 28 - At Sea - Leaving Antarctica
Believe that after leaving Antarctica, this quiet day at sea was really needed to rethink and savor the experience, to revel in the wonders of this continent, and to thank God for the opportunity to be a part of this expedition cruise. So after lunch out on deck with Eric, fog swirling all 'round us, drinking hot mulled wine (YUM!), being unable to tune out the obstreperous, loud and obnoxious European cruise guest on the other side of the dining area (mentioned earlier in this blog) - yes, we managed yet another meal (though light), and laughed our way through another hour and a half! This evening, we'd invited the Guest Services Manager, Nic Botha, (from South Africa) to have a meal with us. Nic is a delightful young man, so competent in his job, but with a wicked sense of humor. We began our evening in The Club for a cocktail before dinner. Must tell you that this cruise has been darn near perfect! Well . . . . except for one tiny thing. Couldn't wait to give Nic a bad time about the robe in my room. The robes on this deck are terry-lined with an outer silk-like shell in a peachy color. They are very nice. However, with repeated washings, the shoulder pads have become what appears to be, and feels like, a dried clump of paper mâché! A really simple solution would be to slit the shoulder seam, take out the offending clump, sew it back up, and no one would be the wiser. Perfect robe! As I began to explain what could be done with these robes, of course, John couldn't help but make suggestions. Nic suggested that they send up a different robe for me, but I demurred stating that this one made me giggle every time I wore it - there were lumps and bumps in the robe that were not the fault of my aging body! John suggested that my robe should have epaulettes, perhaps some ribbons across the chest . . . once again we roared with laughter! Off to dinner, where we laughed further as Nic related funny Seabourn tales. After a quick after-dinner libation with Sandi and John, I retired to my suite. Was pretty tired until I entered my bathroom to find my new robe hanging there. More Laughter!! Don't know how Nic managed this from the time we left him to the time I got to my room, but did tell you that he's good at his job!!
Does this mean the Captain now has to salute me???
Cruising into the harbor at New Island, Falklands
Ruggedly beautiful and remote, New Island is located at the extreme west of the Falklands' archipelago. Since 12996 the island has been owned and run by The New Island Conservation Trust. Dramatic cliffs contrast with sheltered sandy bays and natural harbors. New Island has a lartge3 concentration and great diversity of wildlife. It is also one of the driest places with an annual rain fall of less than 16 inches. Long used as a base for whaling, as a sheep farm and for occasional attempts to collect guano, New Island is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful islands in the Falklands archipelago. Over forty species of birds breed on New Island, including four species of penguin. Thin-billed prions are a highlight along with Skuas, striated caracara and peregrine falcons. Marine mammals are also plentiful. Peale's dolphins breed in inshore waters sea lions are often observed and fur seal colonies are found around the island. The highlight is a large colony of Rockhopper penguins and black-browed albatrosses on the cliffs opposite the settlement on the western side of the island.
Today will be our last ride in the zodiacs, and I might mention that all landings from zodiac are wet landings - that is, you go into the water and walk on shore! It was really tough to get into the boats today because of the wind and high swells, but we did it! It took three people to steady me - the crew here is awesome. A very picturesque landing awaited us at the beach.
When we got to shore, we had a huge uphill hike before us. John and Sandi had no trouble, but I rested a couple of times. We were going up to see the Rockhopper penguins and all kinds of birds. The hillsides are very sparse without any kind of lush green growth. No trees! Lots of pampas grass and low growing scrub. Rocks everywhere with pretty lichen growing on them, and the trail was a spongy peat which made for comfortable hiking.
The views at the top out to the ocean were spectacular, but the nesting birds and Rockhoppers took our breath away. There were hundreds and hundreds of both, nesting in the cliffs going down to the beach. Lots of noise from both, and a "I'm not the least bit interested in this orange jacketed species - so will just ignore them" attitude!
Difficult to see, but this rocky hillside is heavily dotted with nesting Rockhopper penguins and birds.
Trying to see a good photo opportunity through the camera screen proved almost futile, because the position of the sun, polarized lenses, and old eyesight (without glasses!) prohibited. However, with the "point, shoot and pray" application, this is one of my photo winners.
There's a little brown chick at the top of this photo - with Mama and Papa!
Have taken two Google images of Rockhopper penguins so that you can see their unique "hair-do's".
January 30 - Stanley, Falkland Islands / Islas Malvinas
Stanley is the capital and only true city in the Falkland Islands. Stanley was occupied by Argentine troops for about ten weeks during the Falklands War in 1982. The Argentines renamed the town Puerto Argentino, and although Spanish names for places in the Falklands were historically acceptor as alternatives, this one is considered to e extremely offensive by many islanders, demanding as it does that the city is Argentine. It has however gained some support in Spanish speaking countries. Stanley suffered considerable damage during the during the war, from both the Argentine occupation and the British naval shelling of the town, which killed three civilians. After the British secured the high ground around the town the Argentines surrendered with no fighting in the town itself. The beaches and land around it were heavily mined and some areas remain marked mine fields. Since the Falklands War, Stanley has benefited from the growth of the fishing and tourism industries ion the Islands. Stanley itself has developed greatly in that time, with the building of a large amount of residential housing, particularly to the east of the town center. The city is now more than a third bigger than it was in 1982. Gypsy Cove, known for its Magellanic penguins, and Cape Pembroke, the easternmost point of the Falklands, lie nearly. Gypsy Cove is four miles from Stanley and can be reached by taxi or on foot. Stanley is twinned with Whitby in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom. Today, roughly one third of the town's residents are employed by the government and tourism is also a major source off employment. On days when two or more large cruise ships dock in the town, tourists frequently outnumber the local residents.
Today would be a full and fairly rigorous day. There was a gratis Ensemble Tour planned with Eric in the lead. That means that all guests aboard who have an Ensemble travel agent could be included on this jaunt, or get a $200 per person ship's credit should they choose not to go.
After getting up at 6:00 a.m. and gathering in The Club by 6:45 a.m., we were on the first ship's tender to be brought ashore at Stanley. We piled into 4-wheel drive vehicles - three Capurro's and Eric plus the driver, a local who's family emigrated from Scotland and have been in the Falklands for six generations.
Off we went - it was a bit of a dreary day, scattered sunshine, fairly cold, and a lot of wind. Roads on our two hour trip out to see the King penguins began as fairly good, graduated to gravel, and then . . . well, I don't really know how to describe the road! For the second hour, we traveled through rocky, muddy and furrowed peat bogs, bouncing around in the back seat, we three kept apologizing for crashing into each other, holding on for dear life, and looking ahead to utter a silent prayer when we saw the driving challenges. The worst day at sea hadn't been this rough! While being a passenger was a bit rough, would have welcomed some time at the steering wheel - reminded me of the Jeep Jamborees that Adolfo and I'd done years ago.
The countryside is dotted with "rock rivers" - formations of broken rock that cascade gracefully down the mountainsides. Can't imagine how they got there! Much of the natural rock on this island is quartzite, but doesn't seem to be of the quality that we have in our kitchens back home.
We stopped midway for a rest stop. Decent facilities but then something really unique. There was a "Bake Safe"! Locals (hardly any) bake cookies, cakes and candies, put them into plastic containers, and place those containers into a box that is labelled "Bake Safe". Passersby may nibble at their pleasure. All that is asked is for the consumer to put some money into the bottle - whatever you think your nibble was worth. As long as there is some revenue, then the baked goodies will continue.
We were finally at our destination. Everywhere we looked there were animals - sheep, birds, Gentoo penguins, King penguins - all living in harmony. The only predators would be the large birds flying overhead looking for unprotected penguin chicks. The setting was really picturesque with large sloping green areas, sands and then finally the ocean glittering in the bright sun.
We walked among the penguins - so beautiful! The Kings, especially, with their unique markings are picture perfect. When viewing photos of these noble animals previously, my eyes had registered black, white, yellow, gold, and variations. But there is little true black on them, except on the head. The penguin backs are dark grey to silver grey, edged a bit in black. The white is truly pristine, unlike the penguins of Antarctica who are always wallowing in their pink poop and mud. With these penguins nesting on grass and having easy access to the water, they are beautifully clean!
John was certain that he wouldn't need a coat, but Sandi had packed the big orange wind breakers into a backpack, and when John finally turned blue, he did go back to the 4 X 4 to retrieve his jacket. We had a lunch of sorts waiting for us in the vehicles which consisted of an apple, chips, chocolate bar, water and a sandwich of dubious origins - tuna salad, cabbage, parmesan cheese and a mystery sauce - we couldn't really discern what it was! But, we were cold and hungry, so the food disappeared.
On our way to the beach we saw penguins who nest in sand tunnels. Not certain whether they were Gentoos, but this photo of a chick is sweet.
Back to the ship on the same extremely bumpy road - we were tired and by this time were veterans smashing into each other.
Another beautiful sunset, and so to bed.
January 31 and February 1 - Two Days at Sea
I love days at sea - they are my favorite - wonderful, lazy, no schedule (except for Team Trivia). First day and night was uneventful except for Team Trivia preparation.
February 1 was to be the last day of Team Trivia. The tradition on this ship is that teams come in costume. Have you ever tried to figure out a costume (something for the whole team - 11 of us - when you don't have any resources? It was also the day for the Galley Lunch, where all guests are invited into the Galley to partake of a huge buffet - any and all food that you could possibly imagine. Having been to so many in the past, Adolfo and I had begun giving these a "pass". But knowing John and Sandi hadn't had this experience, we decided to attend, and then just give dinner a pass, or if we got hungry then we'd order room service later.
The most beautiful display of food was the dessert area and I didn't take photo!!!
While enjoying the food and once again drinking wine (vino does tend to stir the creative juices!), John was searching his phone for ideas and came up with something we all agreed on - we would be "Identity Thieves". This required a black mask and lots of name tags - but where could we get these items, or at least obtain the materials? We turned to Nic Botha, our guest services manager and he promptly brought to my suite, 100 sticky name tags and a black marker pen.
While we were thinking about what to do about the masks, John and Sandi were speaking with Reuben, a bartender in the observation lounge. John asked where he could get lots of black material. Reuben produced two large heavy duty garbage bags. Perfect! So while John went to get the garbage bags, Sandi and I came up with names and wrote them up.
That evening found the three of us on the floor in my suite, holding different parts of a garbage bag while John cut out the masks with scissors he'd procured from the Spa desk. We then managed to locate all of our team members, either that evening or early the next morning and instructed all to meet in the Casino, right around the corner from where Team Trivia would be held. There, we would costume up!!
Most people didn't give us a "WOW", but we thought we'd been very resourceful. What is even better about that day, at the end of the cruise our team was third from the bottom of a dozen teams. On the bonus question of the last day, teams bet (just like Jeopardy) to see if they can catch up. We bet a portion of our meager points, and then waited for the question. As luck would have it, as soon as the question was asked teammate Recky jumped up in her seat and whispered to us that she knew the answer - she'd been an art major! Here's the question: Who painted The Laughing Cavalier? Not only did I not know the answer, couldn't even recollect the painting. Only two teams got the right answer - artists names were all over the place - Goya, Picasso, Dali, Gainsborough . . . . but the correct answer is . . . .Franz Hals. Guess I won't forget this one!! We came in second place! Darned good recovery! That evening, Eric asked us to join him at the Thomas Keller Grill - we'd been on the waiting list. We accepted with alacrity! We've had really good meals in this restaurant. Some people don't like it, so they do have other options. Many who do not like it do nothing but complain about it! Get a life!!
Still don't know the name of this delightful young woman in the TK Grill, but she made the creation of a TK Caesar salad a moment to remember, and perhaps the best Caesar we've ever had!! Another beautiful day - the cruise was coming to an end, and we were ready to mutiny! We weren't getting off the ship!
Once again, Drake's Passage had treated us pretty well during the last two days - not quite as calm as on our way to Antarctica, but nowhere near as rough as it can be.
This morning we arrived in Punta del Este, a resort on the Atlantic Coast in the Maldonado Department of southeastern Uruguay. Although the city has a year-round population of about 9,280, the summer tourist boom adds to this a very large number of non-residents. Punta del Este is also the name of the municipality to which the city belongs. It includes Punta del Este proper and Peninsula areas. The city is referred to as "the Monaco of the South", "The Pearl of the Atlantic", "The Hamptons of South America", and "The St. Tropez of South America", being also compared to Miami and Cannes. (Places down here have too many names!). Punta del Este is well known for organizing the summit in which the WTO was created. The Formula E has hosted several races, broadcast worldwide in the city, based on its "absolutely landmark cityscape". Music and cinema festivals, whale sightseeing, international education, real estate, and haute cuisine are among the main attractions of the increasingly globalized city, with sights in the area including the La Mano giant sculpture, the Santorini-styled complex Casapueblo, the chic neighborhood of La Barra, the iconic Puente Garzon, Gorriti Island, Arboretum Lussich, and the Museum of the Sea.
We decided to walk the city while sun was shining, just a little breeze - wonderful to be outside. We did about three miles in all and might have stayed out longer, but the wind whipped up. The wind together with the sun began to burn our skin, so we hightailed it back to the ship, along the way admiring the gorgeous yachts in the harbor, and marveling at the skills of the fishermen as they filleted their fresh catch of the day, sorted clams and repaired nets.
Lots of locals and tourists taking the beautiful walk along the water. However, there were so many low cut dresses, or bikini tops that were almost not there, and then the huge bellies of not just the tourists full of good ship's food, but the locals as well - we named the city the Town of Boobs and Bellies!
We enjoyed lunch in The Colonnade Restaurant. Because most stayed ashore during the lunch hour, the dining room was not very busy, which gave us an opportunity to visit with Sunimal, one of two 3-star sommeliers aboard ship. He is from Sri Lanka, an absolute delight, and I hope to see him again aboard another cruise in future.
Dinner this night at Earth and Ocean on deck - actually, as I write this three days later, realize that I've mixed up last night's dinner and tonight's dinner - oh well - we ate again!!!
On one of these two nights John and I hit the Blackjack Table and did well. We are both coming home winners - not much, but a win is a win.
And in between everything this last two days, we have packed. All but our carry-ons must be outside our suite doors this evening by 11:00 p.m. so they can be stored in the hold of the ship, and off loaded as soon as we dock tomorrow morning. Passengers begin leaving the ship around 8:00 a.m. to collect their luggage and go on to the next destination, either a hotel in Buenos Aires or to the airport for their next destination.
Such a wonderful cruise, all too soon almost over . . .
February 3 - Buenos Aires, Argentina
Cruising into Buenos Aires
The birthplace of the tango is, like the dance itself, captivating, seductive and bustling with excited energy. Atmospheric old neighborhoods are rife with romantic restaurants and thumping nightlife, and Buenos Aires' European heritage is evident in its architecture, boulevards and parks. Cafe Tortoni, the city's oldest bar, will transport you back to 1858, and the spectacular Teatro Colon impresses just as it did in 1908. Latin America's shopping capital offers the promise of premium retail therapy along its grand, wide boulevards.
This paragraph above is a very romantic description taken off the internet. Was I to describe this city today, not too many of these descriptive words would be used. Buenos Aires is a very large city, and when cruising into port, one is reminded of Miami. Old building mingle with lots of skyscrapers, some really architecturally creative. But once on the ground and driving to the hotel, one realizes that it is a city in trouble - well, actually the whole of the country is in trouble.
Streets are very dirty. The city, 19th largest in the world, is filled with graffiti not much of which is artistic, but just an awful mess. Buildings are swaying with age, roofs are in need of repair, broken windows need replacing, and I could go on. The sidewalks are obstacle courses, all in need of repair. Huge holes are in the common path - you could lose a leg!
When there's a break in the sidewalk, just plunk in some rocks, stick a couple of sacks on it and pray that no one falls over. No yellow tape, nothing to warn you that there trouble ahead.
Then there's the wiring. It's tangled up in the trees, wound around trunks, broken and then tied together. The trees are pretty healthy and green, but one wonders if there is ever a spark and a tree suddenly fires up! . . . and dogs poop all over the sidewalks!!
Old, new and decay are all mixed together in this melange of a city that is a wealth of history. It seems a shame that this socialist government has ruined so much. There doesn't seem to be any initiative to make it better - very sad.
Before we left the ship we were each sent memos of what not to do in Buenos Aires - no jewelry of any kind, no wrist watches, take care of your belongings, and if possible, when you go out on the street, have what you need in a deep pocket and leave a purse in the safe of your hotel. Not much incentive for us to out, but we did!
Our hotel, Be Jardin Escondido by Coppola, is the former home of Francis Ford Coppola. When making a movie in the early 2000's, (believe the name was "Tetro"), he bought this property, fixed it up and lived there for two years. After the movie was done he turned the home into a small hotel. The pictures on the website looked pretty nice, but for me it was a disappointment. Its saving grace was the beautiful courtyard and inside garden around a small pool - so small in fact, that it should be turned into a koi pond.
The floors in the hotel are uneven, waxed brick, and as slick as a ski slope - so dangerous. There is no elevator, so lugging up big suitcases is very tricky. Stairs are uneven and very narrow - one has to be very careful. I had Sofia Coppola's room - okay - but not kept up. When one turned on the hot water, the cap of the faucet came off in my hand. The fan in the bathroom sounded as though a chopper was landing in the tub. There were scatter rugs on the slippery floor that added to the danger factor. The manager of the hotel had a very relaxed attitude - the kitchen not only needed refurbishing, it was absolutely filthy. All we had was coffee in the morning. The hotel is filled with antiques, some quite pretty, buy when it comes to polishing the furniture, all that is done is the surface! Upholstered furniture has seen better days, is soiled and sagging. Vases of pretty flowers from the garden are through the hotel, but the water hasn't been changed in days and is brown! Okay, enough all ready! I feel so much better for having put it all down. I have one more post which will reveal the fun we had the two days in Buenos Aires - even though we'd been spoiled rotten on the ship and the hotel had fallen short of what it should have been. Will write the last episode on the plane - we board in 20 minutes for our first leg to New Jersey, and hopefully post it when we get to the east coast.
February 5 - Buenos Aires to SFO
Writing this on the plane flying home describing February 3 and 4. Where to begin!
When we checked into the hotel on the morning of the 3rd, the concierge suggested we take in the craft fair out in the district of San Telmo. Also there was a very good Parilla - the Argentines' answer to BBQ . . . and more meat than one can eat.
The fair was a disappointment in that all of the crafts were very crude and though very inexpensive, there wasn't much that we would have purchased, even had we the room to pack it in our luggage! While hesitant to post the next photo, this bar stood out in the craft fair area.
We walked about 6 blocks of the fair and then headed for the restaurant. There would be a 40 minute wait and there was nowhere to wait. We decided to walk down the block and have a drink. Though it's not Brazil, (just next door) - we ordered Caipirihnas, the national drink of Brazil. It took forever for them to come and when they finally did arrive, the waitress lost her grip on the tray and one drink toppled over right down my chest and into my lap.
I was covered with Cachaca, limes, lots of sugar, and the floor around me looked like a citrus dump! I immediately remembered our first dinner in Santiago when I was covered in red wine and burst out laughing. The three of us laughed so hard, really think patrons in the restaurant must have thought we were all nuts. Maybe that's why the apologetic waitress brought us a basket of peanuts in shell. More laughter.
We then walked back to the restaurant where another 5 to 10 minutes' wait turned into another 30 minutes. Finally seated at the table, we ordered and were presented with so much meat that it was impossible to finish. All of this accompanied by a lovely bottle of Argentine Malbec that cost $20 - and it was the most expensive bottle on the menu. There was no way we could finish all of the meat but we had a planned to take it back to the hotel for a snack later or tomorrow.
Sandi's Flank Steak
Jeanne's Pork Neck Steak (there were 3!)
John's Absolutely HUGE Steak!
The next day we shopped throughout the neighborhood - only a few good shops, mostly buildings that are in need of extreme care. Sidewalks are riddled with holes and loose surface - it's like walking through a field of land mines. Am certain that there are sights we missed while we concentrated on where we planted our feet.
We ended our walk in the Armenian district that was right around the corner from our hotel. There were two good restaurants recommended, and only one was open on that Monday. Sandi was happy to order for us and we were happy to let her. The lunch was served family style and was really delicious.
Hummus and Sarma
Monte, Lamb Shishkebab, Lamb Lulekebab
It wouldn't be right not to end this blog with more food, so the next photo will show our picnic on my bed with the left over meats from the day before. John went next door and purchased a half loaf of beautiful bread, and this was our snack before bedtime!
Thanks to Margaret Ann for posting this on her FB page. Seemed an appropriate way to truly end this blog.
Currently at Newark, New Jersey airport, awaiting the boarding call for our final leg home. The trip has been fabulous, but it will be wonderful to sleep in our own beds tonight.
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